Search results

Beer likes to get infected, film at 11. Be on point with your sanitation. I've been told by people who know beer better than I that reasonable so2 levels won't interfere with bottle carbonation.

What matters is the final volume of the must and the weight and sugar contribution of any fermentables you add. That is measurable. Relying on the volume contributed by any fermentables you add is a fool's errand.

Some of the first advice I give new brewers is not to primary in carboys :P

Let me quote your post back to you: We're in agreement that the volume contribution of the honey doesn't matter.

Oh lord, absolutely not. Perhaps for a 1.04-1.05 OG. The amount of nutrient needed depends on your OG. Amounts of nutrients is determined by the amount of yeast available nitrogen (YAN) they add by volume. That amount of nutrient will only add like 100 YAN for a 5 gallon must, which is...

Yes, presuming good nutrition. You don't need it there either. You just need to have a desired volume, and calculate the amount of honey by weight you need for your desired OG. Add half your water, dissolve honey in it, then top up to desired volume. the only place where I can see the...

It's not 1:1, but that's a reasonable place to start for rough estimation purposes, but the volume won't change a noticeable amount through fermentation. If you're talking about designing the recipe to stall out, the volume doesn't matter really.

good nutrition + goferm can get 1118 to 21 pretty reliably

Why stop at 18? Push that sucker to 20 or 21. Sounds delicious.

The point of skeeter pee isn't necessarily to be easy - kit winemaking isn't any more difficult. The point of skeeter pee (and danger daves) is to have something ready quickly to drink while you wait for the good stuff to age :P

k-carb can make your wine taste chalky, especially in amounts needed for large ph adjustments. It doesn't take much for me to start picking it up.

small keg and a beer gun.

I never bother. I've successfully fermented 2.5 ph musts. You've just got to really juice the nutrition, which is what pitching a yeast cake plus adding nutrients does. If you're pitching dry yeast, go for a high pitch rate (5g/gal), rehydrate with goferm, and target 400 YAN.

This calculator makes it easy to calculate gravity for multi sugar musts: http://meadcalc.freevar.com/

It takes only a few points of gravity to cause anything but a champagne bottle to explode. You could YOLO it and pasteurize the bottles when you think they've carbed enough (using a PET bottle to gauge carbonation in glass bottles, but that's playing a stupid game. Playing stupid games gets...

I mean, you can't just not supply your ingredients and process.

OG/FG/yeast/nutes?

Yeah, yeet the rest in, i.e., if you hit the 1/3 break at 72 hours, yeet both in at the same time.

Also, most meadmaking information you'll typically find on the interwebs is likely out of date garbage. This is the best freely available repository I'm aware of: reddit: the front page of the internet

Forgot to answer the rest of your question. Regarding yeast selection and nutrition, this is your friend: https://scottlab.com/content/files/Documents/Handbooks/WinemakingHandbook2020.pdf There are tables there that will tell you the nutrient requirements of each yeast and detailed...