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Thanks for the notice @Johnd. I've made both fig and pawpaw. Pawpaw is far better in my opinion. I've used 5#/gallon. Get the seeds out. You'll need an acid adjustment, try 50/50 citric/tartaric or straight tartaric, aim for 3.2-3.3 range on pH (I didn't get a TA but I'm guessing 7.5-8 range)...

Could have been mentioned earlier, but if you are starting at 3.2, cold stabilization will paradoxically decrease your pH.

I grow grapes and collect tropical fruit trees.

Interesting. They don't look like any of my other (presumably healthy) vines. I suppose I'll take the winemaking approach and just sit tight for a while perhaps...

Neither, that is grass knocked back with Roundup.

It's confusing, I don't like they way they've built this thing, but using your inputs, read under "Notes" it says the recommended free SO2 for this wine is 82 (given the 100% adjustment). Redo the calculation using 82 and you get 21.25 Campden tablets. My numbers were different because I...

While the addition of SO2 won't help it taste better, the absence of SO2 could mean it is oxidized and that may be why it doesn't taste good. A picture of a glass of the wine on a white backdrop might help. If oxidized, you might try the evaporated skim milk trick, or try PVPP/Polyclar, both are...

1. Have you added sulfite since April 28? 2. Any other sulfite additions not listed? 3. Did you test for MLF completion? 4. Did you get rid of all that head space? By my estimation, you are under-sulfited. Winemakermag sulfite calculator says this wine needs 53ppm. I'm surprised you are...

I have what I believe to be crown gall. The vines are 3 years old. I inexplicably lost ~12 of my 40 Nortons over the winter and early spring-time period - they didn't leaf out or they barely pushed some leaves then just wilted and died. Of the vines that are left, several this year looked very...

I don't think that is always true. As I understand it, systemically infected plants can form galls from any kind of injury, including cold injury.

I've said this before, worth saying again... ...give enough info that someone can answer the question. Grape varietal Numbers if you have 'em (spec grav, pH, TA) Recipe if applicable What you did

Daughter is in grad school at UCSB and easily the prettiest place we've found (so far) is Brick Barn. https://www.brickbarnwineestate.com/

https://winemakermag.com/resource/1301-sulfite-calculator Big reds will have some SO2 binding, the site tells you how to account for that.

Agree with all of above, except that you don't want to age your wine with a silicone airlock, they allow a LOT of oxygen through according to Daniel Pambianchi.

Not necessary. You can just use what is known as the "free run." The portion of wine you'll leave behind will vary, might be up to 1/3 but could be less than 10%. I didn't press one of my red wines this year.

Single most helpful link for me on sprays: http://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-fr-s-20.pdf Other considerations for varieties: Petite Pearl, Arandell. Not sure what zone you're in, but I'm in Missouri, 6A. My Norton (Chambourcin as well, to lesser extent) has been a mess of crown gall...

I doubt whether anyone here will tell you that an additional 1/8t is the right amount of KMS for racking. I think most of us understand that one racking is sort of built into that standard 1/4t per 6g per 3 months recommendation. If you are racking much more often than that, you’re best off...

If you stop adding fruit when the acid is right, you'll still end up low on fruit for a wine like blackberry.

I've always had to make additions to reduce the acid in my straight blackberry wines, so I'd be prepared to do that.

Numbers look good enough so I'd say you didn't pick too early. Fermenting on the skins should extract the color.