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Yes

The posts here kind of confirm my experience - the critters start getting the fruit at pH of about 2.8 and 18 brix.

This year I co-inoculated Foch and Frontenac without Acti-ML (forgot to order) but with usual nutrition. I split one pack across two batches, left the open pack in the fridge for a week before using the second half. Did chromatography over the weekend, both are completely done <30 days from harvest.

There are remedies. You might consider a diagnostic test. https://www.awri.com.au/industry_support/winemaking_resources/sensory_assessment/diagnostic_test/ Depending on those results, Reduless might work. However Reduless has only a very tiny amount of copper in it, and your wine might need more...

What I meant was, you should probably rack again after the bentonite, before bottling. I'd make sure the SO2 was adequate, then I'd just leave it alone, it will settle out. Then carefully rack once more, leaving the bentonite behind, then bottle.

I had the same issue this year. I ended up with about 900# of grapes and I was not prepared with all of the needed supplies. FYI, acid additions do not have a linear effect on pH. Be careful and go slowly.

My guess is that it is too acidic. Hard to say without a measurement, but generally I won't add acid to blueberry. More often I'm adding calcium carbonate to get the acid down. Do you have access to a pH meter? That would be good information. Also, what yeast did you use? Depending on the...

I got 200# Foch this year from my vines and making Foch for the first time. I chaptalized to 1.090 and dropped TA to 0.9 as well. Did 3 day cold soak and got off skins at 3 days, which was a protocol I got from a winery in Michigan where we had a nice sample at a tasting.

This is why most people rack to a clean carboy, then to the bottle. It's not ruined, it will eventually settle back out. It's not clear to me whether you bottled already or not. If not, just wait and bottle later. If you did go ahead and bottle, you can either uncork and move the mead back to...

I always simmer the elderberries. It is supposed to help set the color and personally I think it reduced "green goo."

Xnke, wondering where you live that your Chambourcin has numbers like that already?

I think you generally have to assume that store-bought malic is 50% d-isomer and 50% l-isomer. I don't use recipes any more. I adjust the pH and TA to the desired levels which vary depending on the wine. I'll use a tart/citric blend if the fruit wine has any citric or if I think citric might...

Agree with @peterseng, just add it back to the batch.

Both types are C4H6O6, they are isomers. Think of them as left-handed and right-handed versions of the same molecule. For most of my fruit wines I quit using acid blend and went to either straight tartaric or a custom tartaric/citric blend at 80/20 ratio with good results.

If growing in pots, you should have some familiarity with media particle size and perched water tables. Those styrofoam bits almost certainly aren't doing you any good. You can learn a lot from reading content from a guy named Al (I think he's from Detroit area) who goes by online name of "Tapla".

I've made hibiscus a few times, always added tannin, I think it helps.

Thanks @KevinL. It looks a lot like yours, I suspect you are correct. I'm making a gallon of white wine out of it, not sure if we'll blend or bottle straight up.

Well shoot, the last pic is thumbnail. Anyway, in two of these you see this unidentified grape with regular Frontenac in the background. Any thoughts?

I got my vines from AA three years ago. In the row of Frontenac I have one vine that is clearly different. Grapes are lighter, almost bronze colored. The juice looks like a straight-up white after crush, but got just the faintest pink color at the end of pressing. Pics to follow.