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What strength is your sodium hydroxide? If 0.1N your numbers sound right and most likely any "astringency" is something else. If 0.2N, your acid is more like 1.2-1.4g/L. Deacidifying can be tricky, don't make any hasty moves.

As above. Overoaked a Syrah a couple of years ago and foolishly blended it with all kinds of different stuff. Left myself 3 bottles of the original wine. One year later the original wine is awesome and I'm pissed that I blended it all away.

As above, and you should not have to splash rack if the fermentations were uneventful. You might look at lysozyme, particularly if you aren't going to test the malic.

https://www.winemakingtalk.com/threads/satsuma-wine.54952/

I generally agree with @Scooter68 here on water additions. However, you will occasionally find a wine that can tolerate or even benefit from a water addition. These are generally going to be straight juice, no water, high viscosity, almost syrupy wines. I've had a couple over the years like that...

I've never read that. Maybe you are thinking of calcium + potassium (bi)carbonate as an issue? https://www.thebeveragepeople.com/deacidification-wine-potassium-bicarbonate.html

Haven't used R56 before but looks like its alcohol tolerance is 13.5%. So you'll end up with some RS in the dessert wine.

Thirded (is that a word?) If you need to supplement, use a product like this: https://www.midwestsupplies.com/merlot-alexander-s-sun-country-concentrates If you use Concord your wine will end up tasting and smelling like MD 20/20. And no need to puree the berries, just crush and let them...

By the way, you might consider holding back 10% of your must and using that for back sweetening. That will bring you closer to the original fruit flavor of that particular wine.

@cmason1957 we got 17 inches. Unfortunately didn't spend the weekend winemaking, spent the weekend working from home. What you don't see in the second pic is the tops of the muck boots...

It's a 2-3 year old cutting. Odds are decent it will fruit but I agree with @balatonwine I'd cut off any fruit and let it grow/strengthen. Are you going to put it in the ground?

When you sober up you might consider the edit button and a few more periods. :-)

Zest only. No pith. I use a potato peeler to get big wide strips as it makes it easier to get out/rack off.

Secondary, and depends how much you use. I used an entire grapefruit once on a 3 gallon batch and it was done in a couple of days.

While I love my All in One pump, I've always felt like the "Headspace Eliminator" was unfortunately named. It would be more accurate to call it the "Headspace Gas Reducer." Great point about off-gassing CO2 replacing what air is left in the headspace. It raises a question: if the bulb inflates...

@Scooter68 will attest, you have to watch your pH here. 5#/gallon can pretty easily get you down under 3.0, sometimes even to 2.8 range. My 2017 blueberry started at 2.85. I like to use a little red grape concentrate - DON'T USE WELCH'S unless you want it to smell like Concord grapes instead of...

Someone touched on it earlier, but I didn't see a follow up...most of us have abandoned Montrachet. It's need nutrient-wise and when it doesn't get want it wants it tends to produce H2S aromas. There are more reliable yeasts.

Lid loose is what most people do. Don't need the airlock if loose - just stuff a paper towel or something like that if you have an airlock hole.

QA 23 for the yeast for sure. Brings out the passion fruit character of a NZ SB. Then grapefruit instead of lemon or lime. Grapefruit adds generic "citrus" without coming across as specifically lemon or lime.

1. Don't use chlorine as a sanitizer 2. Don't rack it yet. Unwrap all that plastic and try to figure out where your fermentation stands. If you can't get a SG reading, then taste it. If it is still sweet, then one of a couple of things happening: a) it didn't start; b) it started and stuck; c)...