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Unfortunately, without lab tissue culture, it won't happen. You've got to have a growth node, a bud or growth tip, somewhere to grow from. Rachis don't have that, so even if you can root them, there's nowhere to grow from. Tissue culture is not out of reach for the determined amateur though...

How many weeks of growing season do you have left til first frost? If you have 12 to 14 weeks, plant them in the ground and let them grow. No pruning, just try to pick out the main trunk or trunks you want and get them trained up to your wire. As to when to prune, I'd wait til winter and then...

Yes, it will be fine if you get the beetles off.

The lid of the rooting chamber got propped open last night. It will stay open about 1/2" for the next few days, then I'll open it an inch, then by Friday I'll have it open to free air. Unfortunately that means anything with no roots will die out this week.

Today, I picked up all the white downspout pots and every single one of them has at least two root tips showing, so there's 3 more 3309 and 9 more 101-14 rooting successes. The plastic bags will get opened up a little at a time for a few hours each day to harden them off, then once the bags come...

Oh yeah, things are wet. Every day the cutting get misted with a weak solution of Captan or Mancozeb, depending on the week. (1/10 normal strength for field spraying) If you allow them to not be constantly wet, they will shrivel and die in hours after the first two or three days.

So, for the few days that these were pinched down to a single leaf, they were fine, then they were good with the few small leaves, but now that it's gotten cooler...the leaves have browned. Any dead stems have been removed, but any with green buds still on them have been left-these will likely...

As soon as I get home before dark, I'll try to get some photos. The weather conspires against me-I started those cuttings during very stable 80 to 85F temperatures...now it's swinging from 80 down to 70 at night, and a full third of the cuttings have turned brown since Monday night.

So far, the green work has been only somewhat successful. I have rooted 8 out of 36 cuttings of 101-14, 4 out of 18 cuttings of 3309C, and the green grafting failed completely until I realized I had entirely the wrong tape for the job. Since I switched to Parafilm tape, I have been 3 for 3 on...

Unfortunately, due to measures I can't (well, I could but I'd get arrested) control, the grapes I was to get are not going to ripen. Several spray cycles were missed, and the whole row has succumbed to black rot and Japanese beetles-all the bunches are now mummies and there is not a single leaf...

Alright, some of my 101-14 cuttings are rooted and growing, and 4 out of 6 grafts seem to have taken. 3 of those 6 are grafts done on unbolted cuttings that now have tiny roots started. Things are looking good this week!

The advantage there is that my rootstock plants are growing tiny, thin canes on them. I have plenty of green material the same size, so attempting the graft costs nothing-it is very unlikely I'll have any material to bench graft onto this year.

That is intriguing. I'm not too far away.

Depending on if I can find appropriatly sized scion wood, I'll graft a "grape of many colors" and then when pruning this year I'll cut each grafted cane back and root it this winter. A kind of divide and conquer approach, if you will.

I was chip budding the way I did it with roses, but that only works with dormant wood, generally. I have never had any luck grafting dormant wood on green wood. The green-on-green grafts have been whip or cleft grafts. The cleft graft of Mourvedre onto 3309C has been the one that has healed...

Nice. I'll need to get some of those I think, people get wild with string trimmers around here. In other news, I gave up grafting the way it's done in the grape world, and went for doing it the way I grafted pepper plants onto tomato roots. Green-on-green cleft graft, wrapped in electrical...

It may not be needed. There was wide usage of string trimmers at the time, and they think string trimmer damage combined with poor graft hygiene is what caused their problem, as if it was soil bound they would expect every plant to be affected to some degree. I am going to ask about using a...

Apparently there is kind of soil treatment to prevent crown gall but in this case it's too little, too late. The very few healthy plants are all too likely to succumb to it eventually.

That sheet will help out. I had been working on one already, but hadn't finished it up. Right now, I'm working out where I'm going to work at this year-the spare bedroom is no longer spare, so I'm out of luck. The whole mess will have to be made in the workshop, which is OK, since it's now...

Mostly anthracnose and black rot. So far this year, no black rot for them or me, but we both have some anthracnose. I did find out why the vines were dying out. They have a serious crown gall infection, one they have been fighting since day 1. After the winter kill, many of the vines succumbed...