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In addition to a nutrient addition, give it a good stir. A little air can help with the fermentation. It's very young so you should not have to worry about oxidation.

Search for Brute 2624-L3 spigot. The can you are looking at has a greenskeeper version to soak greens for food service. It has a spigot to drain off water and will suit you needs if this is what you want to do. There are other bulkhead fittings both plastic and stainless that will work I have...

I applaud you "anality." That's where the most learning happens. As to pH/TA, the earlier you adjust the better. If I could predict the outcome, I'd make all mine before AF. My next choice would be before MLF. However, if i felt it would help, I would do it up until bottling. It's one of...

If you are sure of your numbers, and even if you aren't, test a few different tartaric additions. A pH that high can taste flabby and insipid. Also, it will be difficult to protect and stabilize for aging and bottling. I'd start with 1g/L and see what happens. From there you'll just have to...

i follow the graph provided above. You can find the same results in a chart. Regardless, the required level of FSO2 is pH dependent. The lower the acidity the more FSO2 required. As your pH gets above 3.6 you are talking about 50ppm FSO2. That's about where I consider adjusting the pH...

If you can't find one consider replacing the slats.

Excellent, I'd love to hear your experience when you use it. FWIW, I'll share my manual corker experience. If you are looking for a comparable "manual corker" consider one of the Rapid series from Amez Droz. I first purchased the Portugese and then upgraded to an Italian corker. When the...

Since there is little reason to check sg after the wine finishes fermentation, you have the added advantage of some CO2 protecting the wine.

I typically split one package of MLB between a couple of different wines. Most are packaged in 2.5g packages and treat 225L/ 60G. Rehydrating makes this easier. I rehydrate with water, Acti-ML, and the MLB. The instructions are on Scott's site. I've never had any trouble getting ML started...

Simple rule of thumb for most vinifera: 200 pounds of grapes: 20 gallons of must : 13 gallons wine after settling. Allowing for some cap space and fudge factor, you will need at least a 35 gallon fermenter. Carboys depend on the size. Just make sure to top them up. Scooping is my preferred...

About 6 years ago I purchased the F Ili Marchisio Hobby-4 tabletop after an intensive search. (I think the Marchisio Hobby 4 is the one Morewine has listed). It's difficult to compare the pros and cons without either talking with an owner or seeing them. After actually touching...

Would you share how you purchased these grapes or from whom? I was told by another supplier that Delta was not offering Napa fruit this year. Clearly I was told wrong.

Are there skins in your fermenter? If not leave it where it is. Fermenting juice in a carboy is fine and preferable. The only reason to move would be to keep it from bubbling over. I would expect the carboy would prevent the skins/cap from rising which also is fine. I have seen wineries use...

With a starting Brix of 26 your abv could be about 15% depending on the conversion factor used. That is close to the upper range of your yeast. This old article from Winemaker Magazine discusses your conundrum and other options: https://winemakermag.com/704-troubleshoot-a-stuck-fermentation...

I don't know Niagra. For whites I give it a nice dose of SO2 (40 - 50 ppm) after fermentation and let it clear. If I backsweeten this is when I do my trials. I don't know what RS level works with Niagra or your preference. Once you backsweeten, add potassium sorbate and make sure your SO2...

1B is not dry. Mine have gone to -1.5. In looking at a Brix to specific gravity table, 1B is equivalent to 1.004 s.g. I have not looked, but I suspect the poster assumed Brix was being read by a refractometer using the Brix scale and applied the alcohol correction formula. I assumed the OP...

Close to zero, I doubt the accuracy of a hydrometer - regardless of scale. Do you have access to Clinitest tablets? If so, you can measure the residual sugar and see how close to dry you are. Some doubt even the accuracy of the Clinitest test. It's available and cheap so I depend in it...

I divide my culture after rehydrating in Acti-ML. Rehydrate according to instructions. I think it's 50g acti ML in 250mL water. And then add 2.5g Vp41. For 55G wine, I'd just portion the rehydrated ML culture based on each containers percentage of the entire 55G. Don't worry about what...

If you still have some fermentation and no alternative, rather than seal it with a cork place a balloon over the mouth. It holds the CO2 and will protect the wine from O2 if it is present. Vent as needed.

I've not see the kegs the wineries are using. I have used corney kegs for my wine and for topping with good results. I would not use any CO2 for fear of carbonation. I use argon and understand nitrogen is more common flor wine. There are 2 - 3 gal corney type kegs.