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This is on the right track. Chips have the most surface area and give up what they have the fastest, but the also have the least amount of dimension. Oak powder is faster than chips with the same lack of dimension. Cubes or spheres would be next, a little slower extraction and a little more...

Here's a post/thread that is basically a summary of that first thread that Seth linked. May help, may not.. Different wording, between the two threads I'm sure it'll 'click' http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f86/yeast-nutrients-39655/

The way to avoid this in the future, is to mix the batch up first, without the lemon juice. Then measure the pH, and slowly add the lemon juice in small increments, watching the pH fall until its in the proper range (~3.4 for blueberry). The lemon juice is highly acidic and that's what threw the...

Bentonite will also heat stabilize the wine, removing proteins (I believe?) that cause a haze when the wine reaches too high of a temperature. I would add it on the 3rd day of fermentation though, as opposed to prior to.

SIY's Yeast nutrients Tannins MLF Barrel Aging Oak Barrel Care pH-TA Relationship Gross lees vs Sur lees Fining agents and their uses F-Packs and Extracts Cleaning, Sanitizing and Sterilizing Cold and Heat Stabilization Just some food for thought..

Not so much John, it takes 2 adults to qualify for the 200 gallons/year; a single adult living alone can only make 100 gallons/year.

I would try the tea first, if you don't think aging will bring out the characteristics of the flowers already used. I've never made a flower wine though, not yet. Did the honey smother it? Blackberry honey would be a good match for a flower wine, but that's good ol hindsight for ya lol

Yeah, I was off with the cold stabilization tidbit..

Well If you're shooting for 5 gallons finished, and already have 6 gallons, I wouldn't thin it any more. I'm not sure what kind of reaction you'd have by adding calcium carbonate to an almost finished fermentation, but maybe someone else can chime in on that.. but you'll need to do something...

Were you shooting for 5 gallons of finished wine, or 6? With six gallons of must pre-fermentation, you're likely to end up with 5 gallons of wine worth bulk aging. But if you have a 6-gallon carboy you plan on using, you could add up to 1 gallon of water - it's going to bring the pH up closer...

Do you have a way to cold stabilize it? I'd try that first. What's the SG? You could back sweeten to balance it out as well Only try one thing at a time though, so you can understand the impact of each change individually

You're metaphorically shooting yourself in the foot, having the pH so low. Bring that pH up, and I bet it finishes dry. I'll have to revisit this if someone doesn't beat me to it, as I'm on my way out the door at the moment

Congrats to your family! Precious..

Yeah, after fermentation starts, for the first addition. The cap is the fruit particles and foaming that occurs on the top of the must, depending on what you're making.. Some kits and white wines don't have enough solids to form a cap,but instead they sound like a soda pop you just opened..only...

Staggered Nutrient Additions are a way of dosing out yeast nutrients in multiple steps/additions, to create a more linear fermentation - if you think of a fermentation as a line graph, it's a smoother line with less peaks and valleys than a fermentation with all the nutrients added up front...

Or (Starting SG - Final SG)/.735 = ABV Different equations.. Same answer, close enough

Welcome to WMT What kind of kit? What grape/flavor..

A frozen juice or must bucket, a fruit wine from real fruit, or a mead from scratch. You'll want a pH meter though, at least. On top of the hydrometer and TA kit They help immensely when dealing with raw ingredients. You can probably get a few of these batches under your belt, and if you...

Try these guys for black locust http://www.honey.com/honey-locator/profile/mohawk-valley-trading-company-honey-raw-honey

You'd need to be on top of your yeast nutrient additions to keep it from stalling, lack of nutrition and/or using generic yeast nutrient can cause a fermentation to stall