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I don't have the drawings in front of me, but the side of each triangle is close to 19". I used 3.25" as the diameter for the bottles when planning it out. 30º cuts.

I found that the 3 months of rest after adding the tannin complex really made it soften up and almost disappear. I will be more heavy handed with its use in the future. I was going to add some tannin riche extra and bottle in a few weeks, but with bench trials, I found that the amount I was...

crazy. option+0 works for me too, but only on the number row above the keyboard. if i use the number pad it doesn't take.

Here’s my piece. (not finished yet. still needs trim on front edges) 60* triangles. Each holds 15 bottles. The “half” triangles at each corner hold 6 bottles each. 234 bottles total. Getting close to $1.50 per bottle, including lumber, glue, nails, sandpaper, stain, finish, felt...

I'm no wood whisperer. I am making a free standing wine rack for the living room; ~220 capacity. It's gone over budget and behind schedule. I'm at ~$1.50 per bottle. Just need to get some trim on the front to cover the edges of plywood. I'll get a picture here soon...

One other thing I noticed on these kits is that they fermented out very dry. 0.991 FG. Three different yeasts made that happen.

For what it's worth, my 1.098 came from batch 58820. My 1.092 and 1.094 came from batch 58821. I wonder if the variance comes from the juice bags or the skin bags.

I've only prepared 4 kits thus far. They always take a day to two to reach maximum gravity. Several times a day, I'm stirring well and squeezing the bag of skins against the side of the fermenter to get all the sugars out and mixed in. The other thing I've done to help this out is to split that...

I did that very thing my first batch. https://www.winemakingtalk.com/threads/my-1st-go-at-wine-and-rc-212.69075/page-2#post-725279 Worked out great. I followed the advice given above. My kettle lid fits loose and has a tiny vent hole, so that’s what I covered it with.

That's great. Thanks for the info. I was thinking that the spigot would be below the sludge line when the EM was complete.

@StreetGlide https://morewinemaking.com/products/chrome-spigot-speidel-plastic-fermenters.html @Brian55 Are you using the spigot to rack the wine after the EM? How much wine is left in the vessel once it has all drained out of the spigot?

Agree. Maybe a knob would’ve been better?

I have 3 of these kits going. Unfortunately, I cannot give you any good feedback yet. All 3 are on the same plan. 8 week extended maceration, with the oak cubes staying in for 3 months after clearing. Each a different yeast, though. The first kit will not be off the oak until the end of...

These 3 kits were started every 8 weeks. I will be shaving a week or two off each racking from the earlier batches so that they will be due for a racking at the same time. I am aiming for August of 2020. That day, I plan to taste and compare the different yeasts. Try some blends a few different...

The D254 batch has been in a carboy with the oak cubes that came with the kit for 6 weeks now. I will be racking off the oak in another 6 weeks. The D80 batch is in a carboy, degassed with the sulfite and clearing agents in. I will be racking that before the year is out and adding the oak cubes...

From the perspective of a total new guy, just divide every quantity by 5! Let me give it a go... disclaimer: I have no experience with this scaled recipe and cannot recommend for or against it.

Just racked that wine to a fresh carboy, adding sulfite. Tastes great. Nothing’s changed since the last racking. I plan to add a bit of finishing tannin and rack/bottle in a month or two.

With no gravity, no sediment collects.

I had bought some to try in coffee a while back. Didn’t like it because t had a ‘bright’ flavor. That’s the best I can describe it. I used it to back sweeten an apple cider and the flavor profile fit well. This was a champagne style cider, off dry.

That seems like it’s in direct conflict to the extended maceration experiments that have not shown metallic taste.