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Its been a while... Welcome back!

Looks like we are having fun here....

Perhaps splitting batches may not be such a bad idea if what you are really wanting to do is just to figure out how all these guys turn out differently. However, if you are trying to get a good understanding of how everything fundementally works and how certain changes create different outcomes...

For the scale that you are working on, I think I would recomend that you stick to a single batch instead of splitting it into a bunch of small batch. It can be quite chaotic trying to keep track of all those different nutrient schedules all at once... Plus, the yield from those small carboys...

I think the rule is on free SO2.. Don't quote me on that. But, either way hitting 350 ppm bound or free so2 would be an impressive feat.

It will take a bit to soak in, but if you can handle all grain you can handle this. Feel free to try and post an example to test your understanding.

It takes a few times to get your head around it, but once you got it, it i really is much easier than an all grain brew. I assure you lol.

I think that is the biggest thing. Don't self incriminate yourself and second don't sell your wine.

All the juices that I got from M&M were still frozen when I got them. Opti-White and Booster Blanc are not substitutes for pectic enzyme, they are nutrient/ smoothness and anti browning compounds. There are other enzymes than just pectic enzyme out there though... But, it really depends on...

On the last page of the attached thread I have a relation that I came up with that helps you figure out how much nutrient you should use. http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f86/got-off-phone-fermaid-people-38704/ I would recommend a combo of fermaid K and O ideally. Fermaid K up front, then...

I would skip their recipe if I was you. Acid blend up front is usually not the best thing in the world for honey must. Plus, heating to 180 is not good for the aromatics. Also, you might want to look into following a scheduled nutrient plan instead of simply adding a lump of generic nutrient all...

Sounds like a good option to me. What kind of honey is it?

To give you an idea, many brewers use a no rinse sanatizer called star san. And often times, they rinse the bottle with the solution and the next thing that is going in is the beer. Now unless you are drastically over doing it, I doubt that is the issue. As far as kmeta, I doubt that is the...

I am going to be the dissenting opinion then and say that I highly doubt it is your no rinse sanitizer... I have a hard time imagining most brewing sanatizers are designed in such a way that they will leave a bad taste in your beer/mead.

If you called them you might end up pleasantly surprised. They have a selection quite a bit larger than what is on the website.. Flying Bee ranch also has great honey, but I think they are a bit pricier.

Have you tried the bee folks? They are a good group and their honey is good.

If you are making mead and the nose is not coming through I would look at a couple places. A) the quality of the honey being used. B) The quality of the fermentation. Would you mind describing A and B and perhaps I could see if something comes to mind?

What kind of yeast did you end up using? All these details are important in determining the best course of action.

From what I remember it was more wine lime than one would expect. I recall it having a greenish hue. But it was not as bad as one would suspect, kind of funKY and Barnardy but likely not something I would do again.

If you already have a SO2 kit, I might hold off on the vinmetrica and instead get a good PH meter. This should allow you to test TA as well if you do a bit of reading.