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Fall 2016?! You like em youngeh? Looks like things are moving along fine though.

Nope, I use a deepfreezer rigged up with a temperature controller and probe in my must.

I don't think you mentioned how big your batch is. This would give us some insight into the S02 concentration.

I don't tend to have issues with my fermentations not getting warm enough. Infact, unless you are making a red wine with grape skins, I can not think of too many times when it is actually in your favor to try and get a fermentation really warm.

Does the wine taste sweet at 1.030? I am asking because it is important to remember that the hydrometer does not measure sugar, it measures density. It might be possible for excessive pectin from the jam to be causing the density to reach a high value even though the sugars are depleted.

It is doing pretty well, I think I accidentally bumped the abv up too high by measuring the SG before all the sugars were fully dissolved since it still taste kind of hot. I might try blending with a lower alcohol wine or perhaps see if a little bit of acidulated water will help it. But, to...

It should be ok, it is just not the optimal method. If it appears that the fermentation is getting stressed you could try making an additional addition later on during the fermentation.

If you are going to be doing any kind of post fermentation sugar additions, you need to wait until the wine is clear before you add the sorbate and sulfite. Then, wait a day and then add the sugars.

I have not had much luck on finding an uber chart for all wine types, but I generally have good luck searching out the desired TA and PH range by searching on a grape by grape or wine style by style basis... But once again, guidelines....

If you are working with something like mead, it is for the o2. If you are doing grapes it is for the punch downs. For wine with grapes in it, there is little debate over whether you should do open fermentation. However, for whites, the answer is less clear. Some recommending oxygenation...

Most wine makers tend to do open fermentation up until pressing or until when the fermentation starts dying down. The exception being for whites where some will do the whole ferment under cover. your choice of course.

Yeah, if you got the movement that makes you happy 10 hrs after the addition, I don't think the extra yeast is what did it.. However, on the plus side, your fermentation is now moving and that is all that matters. Out of curiosity, what are you fermenting in?

If it looks like it is going I would still be patient. However, there should be little harm in pitching more if it makes you feel better. One of the reasons why pitching rates for beer is so high is that brewers Sometimes like to limit the time spent in the growth phase which can impart...

With wine, I would do at end of lag, with mead I like to give it nutrient to start of with. . But do not rehydrate in the nutrients. How long has it been since pitch and what was your pitching rate. Does it taste carbonated?

Imperial Emperor's IPA?

If I was you, once the fermentation kicks off I would store it in the keezer at around 11 C and let it ferment until dry. Meads turn out best when fermented cold because it better expresses the fruity and delicate aromatics of the honey or in your case agave. Mead can sometimes have a bit of a...

Don't worry about it, it just needs some time. I see that you are a brewer, do you have the means for temperature control?

If you are doing natural carbonation on the cider you need to fist get it dry, and then when it comes time to bottle you add sugar to the racked off cider, to an amount that will give you your desired level of carbonation. Then you bottle the cider and cap it in beer bottles and as the yeast...

The starting PH is fine, but as our friend sour mentioned, the pH will swing around a lot. I do all of my pH adjustments post ferment to mead. However, I have heard of mead makers adding OH components to the mead to adjust a bit. ...

Excellent, what kind of timeline do you have in mind for the mead?