3rd attempt!

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AJH89

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This will be my 3rd attempt at Skeeter Pee. Any advice and tips are definitely wanted. My first 2 attempts definitely didn't go so hot. I can't seem to get my skeeter pee fermenting past about 8% alcohol. Always stalls out. My process: pitch 5 gallons of water, 32 oz's of pure lemon juice, enough sugar to bring the must to a 1.060, 1.25 tsp of tannin, 5 tsp of yeast nutrient, 3 tsp of yeast energizer, 5 campden tablets. Wait 48hours. Pitch k1-v1116 yeast. My operation is in my house, my house sits no lower than 72°. I usually start with 1.060 and wait till it hits 1.020 and start to step feed but by the time it gets to 1.020 it seems to Peter out and not take anymore sugar. What would you do differently? What could help keep it going? What am I doing wrong? I felt I had a pretty solid proof method going on here, but this skeeter pee does not like to ferment from my past experience.
 
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Just curious, why don't you start at something like 1.100 and not step feed?
I've heard from a few people in this group that step feeding is the way to go and adding too much sugar right off the bat can stress out the yeast and stall fermentation or never even start. 🤷‍♂️
 
I've heard from a few people in this group that step feeding is the way to go and adding too much sugar right off the bat can stress out the yeast and stall fermentation or never even start. 🤷‍♂️

I don't read every post but I don't recall reading one that refers to that. 1.100 is a pretty common starting gravity. Maybe it was someone trying to get an 18 - 20 ABV.
 
I don't read every post but I don't recall reading one that refers to that. 1.100 is a pretty common starting gravity. Maybe it was someone trying to get an 18 - 20 ABV.
I make all my wines 18-20% abv
 
I have always used EC-1118 for making skeeter pee, I did a quick check and K1-V1116 is rated for medium nutrient requirements, whereas EC1118 is rated as Low Nutrient needs. Also the original recipe (Skeeter Pee Recipe) calls for 6 tsp of yeast nutrient (3 to start, 3 later) and 2 tsp yeast energizer (1 and 1). I seem to recall that I always go a bit high on those, but then I'm making 6 gallons not 5. And I always make up a nice healthy starter for the yeast, don't just sprinkle it on the top.
 
I have always used EC-1118 for making skeeter pee, I did a quick check and K1-V1116 is rated for medium nutrient requirements, whereas EC1118 is rated as Low Nutrient needs. Also the original recipe (Skeeter Pee Recipe) calls for 6 tsp of yeast nutrient (3 to start, 3 later) and 2 tsp yeast energizer (1 and 1). I seem to recall that I always go a bit high on those, but then I'm making 6 gallons not 5. And I always make up a nice healthy starter for the yeast, don't just sprinkle it on the top.
I always end up adding more nutrient with my skeeter pee as it takes during fermentation. Still doesn't seem to help. And for my yeast, I cultivate it in warm water for like 20 minutes before adding it. I never just sprinkle it in my must
 
You are rehydrating the yeast, not making a yeast starter. Next time make a yeast starter by adding your yeast to a cup of water, 2 tsp of sugar and 1/8 tsp of yeast nutrient and let it sit for 18 to 24 hours. Then slowly pour the starter into the must in one spot.
You can also try adding half of the lemon juice up front. Then once you see good signs of fermentation, wait 48 hours and then add the other half of the lemon juice.
 
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You are rehydrating the yeast, not making a yeast starter. Next time make a yeast start by adding your yeast to a cup of water, 2 tsp of sugar and 1/8 tsp of yeast nutrient and let it sit for 18 to 24 hours. Then slowly pour the starter into the must in one spot.
You can also try adding half of the lemon juice up front. Then once you see good signs of fermentation, wait 48 hours and then add the other half of the lemon juice.
I do a yeast starter. Not just hydrate. Sorry for not putting the other measurements in there. I usually do like half a cup of warm water 1 yeast packet and a tsp of sugar. I've never let it sit for 24 hours though.. maybe you're on to something though. That could be the key to making my fermentation last and go strong
 
I did read your last comment. Cultivating yeast in warm water for like 20 minutes is not a yeast starter. It actually is only rehydrating the yeast. In order to make a strong yeast starter you need to follow the directions that I stated in my last comment.
You asked for help and we are trying to do so.
You can follow the advice given or not. It's solely up to you. But I think most here would agree that pouring yeast in warm water for 20 minutes is not making a yeast starter.
 
I did read your last comment. Cultivating yeast in warm water for like 20 minutes is not a yeast starter. It actually is only rehydrating the yeast. It order to make a strong yeast starter you need to follow the directions that I stated in my last comment.
You asked for help and we are trying to do so.
You can follow the advice given or not. It's solely up to you. But I think most here would agree that pouring yeast in warm water for 20 minutes is not making a yeast starter.
You commented to fast bud. Please reread my statement that I edited.
 
You also didn't mention a ph of the Skeeter Pee must. Do you have a ph meter?
Lemon juice is very acidic. If the ph is lower then 3.0 the yeast will have a very difficult time fermenting. Most people that have problems with their Skeeter Pee is due to a very low ph issue. That is why I suggested adding half the lemon juice up front and once fermentation starts, then add the second half 48 hours later.
 
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You also didn't mention a ph of the Skeeter Pee must. Do you have a ph meter?
Lemon juice is very acidic. If the ph is lower then 3.0 the yeast will have a very difficult time fermenting. Most people that have problems with there Skeeter Pee is due to a very low ph issue. That is why I suggested adding half the lemon juice up front and once fermentation starts, then add the second half 48 hours later.
Ehh, I can't remember what the PH levels were. Always heard it's easiest to just add 32ozs of lemon juice up front and then the rest at the end of fermentation so that's what I was trying for. I only have crappy ph test strips. Been meaning to get an actual electronic one.
 
You also didn't mention a ph of the Skeeter Pee must. Do you have a ph meter?
Lemon juice is very acidic. If the ph is lower then 3.0 the yeast will have a very difficult time fermenting. Most people that have problems with there Skeeter Pee is due to a very low ph issue. That is why I suggested adding half the lemon juice up front and once fermentation starts, then add the second half 48 hours later.
Could I potentially just do sugar, water, nutrients, yeast starter and just throw the lemon juice in when it's completely fermented?
 
Could I potentially just do sugar, water, nutrients, yeast starter and just throw the lemon juice in when it's completely fermented?
I would highly recommend against this approach. To do so will means that you will end up with a lemon flavor without the complexity benefits of the yeast and and tannin that you added. To make wine is to ferment on the juice of the intended wine that you are after.
Try the yeast starter that I recommend and follow the recipe as written.
But you will really need to purchase a decent ph probe if you truly want to take your winemaking to the next level. To not know the ph of any must prior to pitching the yeast is an injustices to you as a winemaker and the wine that you are trying to make.
 
My last Skeeter Pee seemed to stall too. I was planning on fortifying it so it wasn’t a problem for me. My current batch also seemed to stall. It has gone for days without the hydrometer reading seeming to move. I could still see a few bubbles though, so this time I just waited. Mine has been fermenting since 11/12 and today it finally hit .998. I used 1.5 quarts of juice at the start and then added 1.5 quarts when I added the second dosage of nutrient and energizer. I always just sprinkle EC118 on top instead of using a yeast slurry.
 
Best comment I see above is about the pH. When the pH is below 3.2 before you pitch the yeast you are getting into the realm when yeasts are going to struggle to perform. Once the ferment starts the pH is going to drop even more so you want to start above 3.2 at least.
Don't assume things will work out and always keep a detailed list of what and how much you add as well as when. With a starting SG of 1.060 the sugar is not going to overwhelm any yeast. There has to be something else preventing the ferment to finish.
BUT also look at your numbers. Starting at 1.060 and fermenting ALL the way to .990 is still just going to give you 9..19% ABV so you are going to have to step feed or start at a higher sg than 1.060. Typically I start off at a somewhere north of 1.100 for my high ABV wines and they seem to finish out pretty well. At least push up to 1.090 if you want a higher ABV and then step feed to get to your final goal.
 
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Best comment I see above is about the pH. When the pH is below 3.2 before you pitch the yeast you are getting into the realm when many yeasts are going to struggle to perform. Once the ferment starts the pH is going to drop even more so you want to start above 3.2 at least.
Don't assume things will work out and always keep a detailed list of what and how much you add as well as when. With a starting SG of 1.060 the sugar is not going to overwhelm any yeast. There has to be something else preventing the ferment to finish.
BUT also look at your numbers. Starting at 1.060 and fermenting ALL the way to .990 is still just going to give you 9..19% ABV so you are going to have to step feed or start at a higher sg than 1.060. Typically I start off at a somewhere north of 1.100 for my high ABV wines and they seem to finish out pretty well. At least push up to 1.090 if you want a higher ABV and then step feed to get to your final goal.

Scooter, you were the one to let me know about the issues with a low pH when I was making a blueberry wine. I made a good strong starter and had no issues. By a miscalculation it also started out as a potentially high ABV wine. I always though AF raised the pH, not lowered it. Secondly my understanding is once the ferment starts the yeast has already adjusted itself to tolerate the higher pH, is this not your understanding.
 

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