Other Brew Belt or Let'er Rip?

[bkisel]

My first two kits, started in January and February of this year, were fermented in a corner of the kitchen. The ambient temperature probably averaged around 68 degrees and all went well. My operation has been moved to the basement which at this time of the year through to spring stays right around 60-62 degrees. Nice temperature for aging wine but would you ferment at this low a temperature or go out and buy a brew belt? If using a brew belt don't you run the risk of too high a fermentation temperature?

[The kit I'll be starting after Thanksgiving is an RJS California Muscat that comes with a packet of Lavin EC-1118. Researching this yeast I found that its good from 50-85F but the kit instructions say primary should be in the range of 70-80F. I have a feeling that by covering the primary bucket with a couple of towels I'll be okay with maybe a somewhat longer fermentation time compared to if temperature were between 70-80F.]

Thanks...

 

[Scott]

Most likely will need the belt to get the ferm started then can remove it if maintaing a good temp. Then use it again when racked and up to degassing time. The temp can be tweeked by moving the belt up or down the container or by placing strips of thin wood for spacers.

 

[sour_grapes]

Many have hooked up a cheap PID temperature controller, available on ebay for about $20.

 

[JohnT]

Most likely will need the belt to get the ferm started then can remove it if maintaing a good temp. Then use it again when racked and up to degassing time. The temp can be tweeked by moving the belt up or down the container or by placing strips of thin wood for spacers.

Agree with Scott. Once fermentation kicks off, the yeast will generate a fair amount of heat. You need to warm it up just a bit (70 to 75 would be great) just until the yeast takes hold.

 

[SouthernChemist]

I'd say just warm it up a bit until fermentation starts and then see how it goes. Typically I would say that you would want to ferment a white wine on the cooler side of things as a higher temperature fermentation would run the risk of stripping the more delicate aromatics from the wine. For this particular kit, it might not matter much when you consider how much the f-pack adds. The temperature inside the fermenting wine will always be warmer (even if just a little) than the air temperature, anyway.

 

[Runningwolf]

LMAO, here we go as there is always one in the bunch and this time it is me. Forget the belt, you don't need it. You're using ec-1118 on a white, you'll be fine. JohnT, come to my office after class and we'll talk.

 

[wineh]

I hae a cool basement as well. I use the brewbelt with every kit, and have never had a problem (that I could blame on the brewbelt that is).

 

[cpfan]

This conversation, so far, is about fermentation. The next question is degassing. Wine is REALLY tough to degas at 62F. At least that's what I've heard, since I've never tried it.

Steve

 

[iVivid]

I throw mine on a heat pad and leave it on there for 3-4 days while doing vacuum degassing. I only have a brake bleeder pump, but it works REALLY well after a few days of a few times a day!

 

[Scott]

LMAO, here we go as there is always one in the bunch and this time it is me. Forget the belt, you don't need it. You're using ec-1118 on a white, you'll be fine. JohnT, come to my office after class and we'll talk.

Uh oh we did it now. Is there wine in your office?? I'll be there too

 

[Runningwolf]

Wine in my office???? My office is in the wine cellar!

 

[bkisel]

Okay, went the brew belt route - bought yesterday along with a therometer. LHBS also had a heat pad for ~$55.00 and a heater wrap designed for glass carboys which I neglected to price.

Used the heater belt overnight and found it raised the temp of the must to ~71 degrees with a basement temperature of ~63 degrees. I'm really interested to see how much the temp rises as fermentation really gets going.

Instructions say not to use the belt for more than 8 days, why is this?

Instructions say not to "affix" the belt to glass, metal or wooden fermenter, so to a plastic Better Bottle would be okay?

Thanks...

 

[SouthernChemist]

Instructions say not to use the belt for more than 8 days, why is this?

Instructions say not to "affix" the belt to glass, metal or wooden fermenter, so to a plastic Better Bottle would be okay?

Thanks...

My guess would be that the brew belt is not intended for extended use and that is a general safety warning. Not that anything bad would automatically happen, but it is an electrical device. Glass and metal would be better heat conductors than plastic while wood would technically be a fire risk if something went wrong. That being said, if you're watching things carefully, you shouldn't have a problem. You can always ferment to dryness in your primary fermenter...just seal it off with an airlock once fermentation is in the final stretch.

 

[bkisel]

My guess would be that the brew belt is not intended for extended use and that is a general safety warning. Not that anything bad would automatically happen, but it is an electrical device. Glass and metal would be better heat conductors than plastic while wood would technically be a fire risk if something went wrong. That being said, if you're watching things carefully, you shouldn't have a problem. You can always ferment to dryness in your primary fermenter...just seal it off with an airlock once fermentation is in the final stretch.

What you say makes sense. I guess you can unplug it on day 9 and continue use on day 10 to get around the the being plugged in for more than 8 consecutive days.

 

[tonyt]

Brew belts are like many things today, if you read all the warnings you won't use them at all. I use mine on glass carboys with no issues. I don't however, run with scissors or remove the tag from pillows.

 

[bkisel]

Basement was again this morning at 63F degrees but must was up to 78F with the fermentation starting to roll. I unplugged the heater belt and covered the primary bucket with two towels. I think before going to bed tonight I'll take another temperature reading and if the temp is something like 70F or better I'll leave the belt unplugged for the night. Does this sound like a good plan?

 

[SouthernChemist]

Should be okay as an active fermentation will keep it warmer than your ambient air temperature.

 

[Elmer]

My guess would be that the brew belt is not intended for extended use and that is a general safety warning. Not that anything bad would automatically happen, but it is an electrical device. Glass and metal would be better heat conductors than plastic while wood would technically be a fire risk if something went wrong. That being said, if you're watching things carefully, you shouldn't have a problem. You can always ferment to dryness in your primary fermenter...just seal it off with an airlock once fermentation is in the final stretch.

I have my brew belt bungied to my bucket and it never leaves.
I am on day 7 of using it and I will turn it off, rack to a carboy for final stage of fermentation.
Instead of transfering the belt, which is held on my bungie coil thingy, I just wrap the carboy in a heavy blanket and give a stern talking to about staying warm!

however considering I have moved my entire operation to the basement which is at 63 degrees, I am guessing that heated carboys are not a bad idea.
However I have had a 1 gallon carboy of crab/apple finishing fermentation, in the basement, unwrapped and it is going fine, just slower!

 

[WI_Wino]

Basement was again this morning at 63F degrees but must was up to 78F with the fermentation starting to roll. I unplugged the heater belt and covered the primary bucket with two towels. I think before going to bed tonight I'll take another temperature reading and if the temp is something like 70F or better I'll leave the belt unplugged for the night. Does this sound like a good plan?

Sounds like you need a temperature controller. Set the target temp, difference before it turns on (delta), and forget it. I have two in use as we speak and am building another tonight. I assembly mine using an STC 1000 temperature controller, project box from Radio Shack, extension cord whip, and an outlet.

You can buy them all assembled as well, Johnson Controllers has analog and digital varieties. There are other manufacturers like Ranco as well.

Here's a good thread that shows building a temperature controller using an STC 1000 and extension cord.

 

[bkisel]

Sounds like you need a temperature controller. Set the target temp, difference before it turns on (delta), and forget it. I have two in use as we speak and am building another tonight. I assembly mine using an STC 1000 temperature controller, project box from Radio Shack, extension cord whip, and an outlet.

You can buy them all assembled as well, Johnson Controllers has analog and digital varieties. There are other manufacturers like Ranco as well.

Here's a good thread that shows building a temperature controller using an STC 1000 and extension cord.

Thanks but... Checked out the thread but find the controller too complex a solution. Reading the temperature of the must twice a day and then deciding to use the belt or not seems to be working for me. [reference next post}