Fertilizing established grapes.

[Bizzidy]

I planted my 1.75ac vineyard in 2018. In winter/spring of 2021 I fertilized with 15-15-15.
Now it’s 2024 and I am going to fertilize again. I have 16-16-16 this time and i am planning about 1/4 to 1/2 cup per plant.
Thus far I have had very reasonable growth and harvests.
Anyone also fertilize with granular balanced fertilizer? How often and how much do you use? Thanks, Matt

 

[srcorndog]

Before I fertilize, I always get a soil sample. I use my county extension agent she mails it off for a small fee then it is analyzed and you will know the target amount you need to use. Without guessing. Just my 2 cents

 

[CTDrew]

I second what @srcorndog said and would that they can give you fertilizer and amendments recommendations based upon what type of grapes you are growing, target yield, climate etc.

 

[VinesnBines]

I also have an established vineyard (2 acres); we planted the first vines in 2019. I have not fertilized but am considering how much this year. I was advised by a local vineyard manager to use 46-0-0. Everything I read says not to fertilize before bloom.

Before I do anything, I will do a petiole testing at bloom. Petiole testing is more accurate for established vines than soil testing. Petiole testing can be done twice a year, at bloom and at veraison. I did petiole testing at veraison a couple years ago and sent the test to Penn. State. The results were fine but Penn. State said they could not accurately test nitrogen at veraison and advised me to test again at bloom. You can check for petiole testing in CA, send to Penn. State Plant Tissue (Total) Analysis (Agricultural Analytical Services Lab) or send to Double A Vineyards Plant Nutrient Analysis - Petiole Package. Penn. State is about $11 cheaper than Double A.

 

[salcoco]

I used to fertilize witih a balaanced fertilizer just after harvest a cup a plant . why? over half of root grwth is post harvest. the I would also fertilize at bud break. Why? nutrition would reach grape c;lsusters by the time they bloomed and set. also one cup per plant.

 

[Hazelemere]

I have 132 vines most of which are on 4' x 7' or 6' x 7' spacing.

I feed them (annually):

1 bag of bone meal
1/3 bag kelp meal
1/3 bag rock phosphate
1 bag of sulpomag
1 ice cream buck of trace elements
I mulch under the rows with lawn clippings fed with slow release fertilizer containing nitrogen
If the soil pH drops below 6.5 I'll add some dolomite.

 

[Christopher Anderson]

I am 100% organic. I use Medina Growing green. The vines take up and use only what they need when they need the nourishment.

 

[Bizzidy]

All excellent advise and also very nice to hear how others are fertilizing. I will go ahead and do a balanced fertilizer this year. Next year i will do a soil test and see if there are other nutrients needed.
Photo for interest.

 

[Bizzidy]

Looking at my old soil tests from several years ago the recommendation was to add gypsum. I’ll add that this time since I missed it back then.

 

[VinesnBines]

Looking at my old soil tests from several years ago the recommendation was to add gypsum. I’ll add that this time since I missed it back then.

Interesting. Our vineyard is roughly three miles from the now defunct US Gypsum mines at Plasterco, Virginia. Our soil has both red and yellow clay. I think the yellow is gypsum.

 

[Nebbiolo020]

I wanted to correct some misinformation, as a professional winemaker and someone who has managed many vineyards, you want to apply 40-50% of your fertilizer pre bloom and the rest after bloom, but not later than early summer.

 

[Hazelemere]

fertilizer pre bloom except boron which can be added during early flowering

 

[Nebbiolo020]

Keep an eye on boron, it is vital for fruit set if it’s low you don’t get grapes, magnesium is critical for chlorophyll, molybdenum is vital for converting nitrogen into a useable form inside the vine and zinc is important for fruit set as well as enzymes in the vines. You want to make sure you are not deficient in any of them.

Since potassium is depleted yearly and goes away in the berries and skins you have to add potassium yearly it is really easy to develop a chronic potassium deficiency if you don’t monitor and add potassium. Make sure it is the sulfate form of potash not the chloride form as the chloride can burn grapes.

 

[Hazelemere]

Keep an eye on boron, it is vital for fruit set if it’s low you don’t get grapes, magnesium is critical for chlorophyll, molybdenum is vital for converting nitrogen into a useable form inside the vine and zinc is important for fruit set as well as enzymes in the vines. You want to make sure you are not deficient in any of them.

Since potassium is depleted yearly and goes away in the berries and skins you have to add potassium yearly it is really easy to develop a chronic potassium deficiency if you don’t monitor and add potassium. Make sure it is the sulfate form of potash not the chloride form as the chloride can burn grapes.

sulpomag - potassium magnesium sulphate

 

[Nebbiolo020]

sulpomag - potassium magnesium sulphate

I don’t use that as the potassium is low, I usually will do sulfate of potash which is 0-0-50 and add in some Yara 15-15-15 and then do a foliar micronutrient spray as micros get fixed in the soil and leaves are way more efficient at absorbing them. I will usually use an all purpose foliar micro spray then do a foliar epsom salt spray for the magnesium and do zinc sulfate for the zinc. If boron is still an issue prior to bloom use 1 tablespoon of borax per gallon of water for foliar spray.

 

[tjmeyer]

I've found that the most common issue, if any, when you're on an appropriate rootstock for your area is nitrogen deficiency in the spring. There are LOADS of factors, of course, but most grape varieties have the bare minimums in almost any environment. Nutritionally speaking, they are fairly forgiving plans.

That being said, vitis vinifera has macro and micro nutrients just like humans. If you do a soil test, be sure to check for these:
Macros: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Calcium, Potassium, Magnesium, Sulfur
Micros: Iron, Manganese, Boron, Chlorine, Molybdenum, Copper, Zinc, Cobalt

These are in order of the most common lacking nutrient, Nitrogen being the most common of all AND the most consumed year over year, this is why you were recommended 46-0-0. There's a very good chance you really don't need anything but Nitrogen and could make things worse by adding too much acidic stuff like Sulfur. I always tell folks that if you're unsure, use a gentle neutrally balanced fertilizer--something you'd use on your lawn--like 11-11-11, etc., and don't place it too near the trunk base. The best way I've found is to use a cheap liquid fertilizer injector on your drip irrigation, they do a GREAT job of diluting your fertilizer for you.

My last recommendation is to never screw with your micros or ph altering nutrients unless you've had a very thorough soil sample and have a clear and obvious deficiency. Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are almost always ok in moderation.

Good luck!

 

[Nebbiolo020]

I've found that the most common issue, if any, when you're on an appropriate rootstock for your area is nitrogen deficiency in the spring. There are LOADS of factors, of course, but most grape varieties have the bare minimums in almost any environment. Nutritionally speaking, they are fairly forgiving plans.

That being said, vitis vinifera has macro and micro nutrients just like humans. If you do a soil test, be sure to check for these:
Macros: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Calcium, Potassium, Magnesium, Sulfur
Micros: Iron, Manganese, Boron, Chlorine, Molybdenum, Copper, Zinc, Cobalt

These are in order of the most common lacking nutrient, Nitrogen being the most common of all AND the most consumed year over year, this is why you were recommended 46-0-0. There's a very good chance you really don't need anything but Nitrogen and could make things worse by adding too much acidic stuff like Sulfur. I always tell folks that if you're unsure, use a gentle neutrally balanced fertilizer--something you'd use on your lawn--like 11-11-11, etc., and don't place it too near the trunk base. The best way I've found is to use a cheap liquid fertilizer injector on your drip irrigation, they do a GREAT job of diluting your fertilizer for you.

My last recommendation is to never screw with your micros or ph altering nutrients unless you've had a very thorough soil sample and have a clear and obvious deficiency. Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are almost always ok in moderation.

Good luck!

Generally speaking I have had potassium deficiencies more often than anything else followed by magnesium and boron. Nitrogen deficiencies do happen but are much less common.

I have had to add micros a lot because they tend to leach out and need to be replaced.

I usually use granular micros or sprays or micros which I spray in the furrows or do a foliar spray.

15-15-15 is the NPK ratio I like to use for general fertilizer for vines, I really like Yara 15-15-15 because it has both nitrate and ammoniacal nitrogen so it gives a pop now and some slower release nitrogen that hangs around longer and also has potassium in the form of sulfate of potash and does not cause chloride toxicity, it also has calcium which is the next major nutrient needed by vines.

 

[Nebbiolo020]

I've found that the most common issue, if any, when you're on an appropriate rootstock for your area is nitrogen deficiency in the spring. There are LOADS of factors, of course, but most grape varieties have the bare minimums in almost any environment. Nutritionally speaking, they are fairly forgiving plans.

That being said, vitis vinifera has macro and micro nutrients just like humans. If you do a soil test, be sure to check for these:
Macros: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Calcium, Potassium, Magnesium, Sulfur
Micros: Iron, Manganese, Boron, Chlorine, Molybdenum, Copper, Zinc, Cobalt

These are in order of the most common lacking nutrient, Nitrogen being the most common of all AND the most consumed year over year, this is why you were recommended 46-0-0. There's a very good chance you really don't need anything but Nitrogen and could make things worse by adding too much acidic stuff like Sulfur. I always tell folks that if you're unsure, use a gentle neutrally balanced fertilizer--something you'd use on your lawn--like 11-11-11, etc., and don't place it too near the trunk base. The best way I've found is to use a cheap liquid fertilizer injector on your drip irrigation, they do a GREAT job of diluting your fertilizer for you.

My last recommendation is to never screw with your micros or ph altering nutrients unless you've had a very thorough soil sample and have a clear and obvious deficiency. Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are almost always ok in moderation.

Good luck!

I will also add that if anyone does a vineyard soil test do Logan Labs they give really reliable and accurate soil tests and if you tell them you have grapes they will give you recommendations for grapes based upon your soil conditions. I use them myself because mehlich 3 soil tests tend to be more accurate particularly with phosphorous and micros.

 

[Charles DeVier]

I just received my soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio. The test was $27 for 18 different minerals, pH and organic matter. There is an extra charge if you need them to make a recomendation for you. The dollars that you save by not using the wrong fertilizer will pay for the soil test. I do a soil test about every 4 years.

 

[tjmeyer]

I just received my soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio. The test was $27 for 18 different minerals, pH and organic matter. There is an extra charge if you need them to make a recomendation for you. The dollars that you save by not using the wrong fertilizer will pay for the soil test. I do a soil test about every 4 years.
View attachment 110822

odd, was there no nitrogen in the lab report?