Missed 1/3 Fermaid K Nutrient Addition

[Dom Lausic]

Hello Everyone!

My Syrah is fermenting away beautifully in my garage, albeit a little cool..... Canadian fall temps are really dropping in the evening.

Nonetheless, starting Brix was 25. I missed my 1/3 Fermaid K addition, and we are currently sitting at 10 Brix. Yeast used is BM 4x4. I know its a nutrient hog, so my question is, should i add the full dose i was going to add at 1/3 Brix? Or should i half it, considering i'm approaching 2/3 Brix.

No signs of H2S.

Thoughts/suggestions????

 

[mainshipfred]

Hello Everyone!

My Syrah is fermenting away beautifully in my garage, albeit a little cool..... Canadian fall temps are really dropping in the evening.

Nonetheless, starting Brix was 25. I missed my 1/3 Fermaid K addition, and we are currently sitting at 10 Brix. Yeast used is BM 4x4. I know its a nutrient hog, so my question is, should i add the full dose i was going to add at 1/3 Brix? Or should i half it, considering i'm approaching 2/3 Brix.

No signs of H2S.

Thoughts/suggestions????

IMO I wouldn't think adding a full dose would hurt, especially with the cooler temps.

 

[Ajmassa]

They can sure go fast can’t they?

I’d say skip it altogether personally. Since it’s fermK which contains DAP and supposed to avoid DAP later in the ferment. Once you get a certain level of abv the DAP actually feeds the bad stuff.

Just my $.02. Could use FermO since it is organic (no DAP). But doesn’t really sound like ya need it anyway

 

[NorCal]

I think you can make a case to do either. I’d skip it at this point.

 

[mainshipfred]

The reason I thought the K would be better is the DAP helps increase the temp of the must. Toward the end of fermentation and the temp naturally cooling down the K may help.

 

[Ajmassa]

The reason I thought the K would be better is the DAP helps increase the temp of the must. Toward the end of fermentation and the temp naturally cooling down the K may help.

Yea man. I don’t actually know that abv threshold of when to avoid dap. I assumed it’s around the finish line. 1.010 to dry. But I’ve also done a bunch of ferments with no nutrients at all without issue. But pretty much sounds like Dom can’t go wrong. I didn’t know that about the DAP and temp. Good to know

 

[stickman]

Just my opinion, at 10 brix, I wouldn't hesitate to add the full dose of fermaid K, you have limited time to get the nutrients added.

 

[Ajmassa]

Just my opinion, at 10 brix, I wouldn't hesitate to add the full dose of fermaid K, you have limited time to get the nutrients added.

Tbh- I’ve always been a specific gravity man- I only think in brix terms for ripeness. Thought 10brix was a lot lower SG then actual. . Plus I was driving.(Relax. I was in the drive-thru line at Dunkin’)

Brix°/SG conversion gets funky when nearing dry to me since SG is my default. even tho hyrdrometer shows <1.000sg as negative Brix there really is no such thing as negative brix. 0 is 0!

 

[stickman]

I've always used brix just as a number that gives me an idea of the fermentation status, once it goes below 1 I'll usually switch over and use gravity.
I think most of the problems associated with DAP are when it's added alone. Adding a good quality nutrient blend, that happens to contain some DAP, is not the same as adding straight DAP. Even when adding supplemental DAP to a very low nutrient must, I've always added it at the same time as the blended product, this is to help prevent shifting the ratio of inorganic nitrogen too high. Nutrient addition is always a bit of a gamble as most of us don't know the initial must nutrient level, and you don't want to add too much, but often problems don't develop until you're below 3 brix and by then it's too late.

 

[Ajmassa]

I've always used brix just as a number that gives me an idea of the fermentation status, once it goes below 1 I'll usually switch over and use gravity.
I think most of the problems associated with DAP are when it's added alone. Adding a good quality nutrient blend, that happens to contain some DAP, is not the same as adding straight DAP. Even when adding supplemental DAP to a very low nutrient must, I've always added it at the same time as the blended product, this is to help prevent shifting the ratio of inorganic nitrogen too high. Nutrient addition is always a bit of a gamble as most of us don't know the initial must nutrient level, and you don't want to add too much, but often problems don't develop until you're below 3 brix and by then it's too late.

Will be nice to not need to guess. I got myself a Vinmetrica and they sell that YAN Kit to use with it for only about $35.

And of course there’s always the Brehm option too. #’s right on the bucket. I know I’ll pull the trigger on that at some point. Lookin forward to read about yours soon.

 

[NorCal]

I've always used brix just as a number that gives me an idea of the fermentation status, once it goes below 1 I'll usually switch over and use gravity.
I think most of the problems associated with DAP are when it's added alone. Adding a good quality nutrient blend, that happens to contain some DAP, is not the same as adding straight DAP. Even when adding supplemental DAP to a very low nutrient must, I've always added it at the same time as the blended product, this is to help prevent shifting the ratio of inorganic nitrogen too high. Nutrient addition is always a bit of a gamble as most of us don't know the initial must nutrient level, and you don't want to add too much, but often problems don't develop until you're below 3 brix and by then it's too late.

Great discussion. Winemaking has so much applied science to it, I love understanding not only what I’m doing, but why. Thanks for your insight.