My other wine press

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Rocky

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I have one of the basket type wine presses that has to be more than 75 years old and I am unsure as to what I would have to do to it to make it safe to use for pressing fruit. My questions are:
 
Sorry guys, I know you are at the edge of your seats waiting for my questions. I must have hit a "send" key somewhere.


As I was saying, my questions are:
1. how should I go about cleaning the basket? Disassemble or not, what to use on the wood, etc.
2. it appears that the original color of the base was red and most of the paint is discolored or worn off. Should I repaint it? If so, with what type of paint? I was thinking of having all the metal except the screw mechanism powder coated in red and keeping the screw mechanism bare metal.
3. do you have any other suggestions as to how I should proceed.


I plan to make some wine this year out of grapes or other fruit and I will need the press. Thank you.
 
Hose it down good and then soak anything that comes into contact with the juice in Iodophor solution made per directions on the bottle.
 
The wood is probably the most important to clean well and ibglowin is right about that. The metal base would probably be OK if the paint is tight but just faded. If a lot of rus, I would wire brush it down or sandblast to clean up. Then a good powder coating or spray with a food safe paint.
 
Thanks, Guys.


I was going to "restore" the press eventually and I have a good "powder coater" near me.In his process, he strips off all the old paint and rust so I will probably go that way. I will disassemble the basket, clean the wood pieces as you all suggest and re-assemble with new SS hardware.


I am getting too many projects going here and the garden soon will be taking a lot of my time. I am busier in retirement than I ever was in my career.
 
Hi Rocky,


I purchased an old basket press a few years ago, and after cleaning and disinfecting with hot water and mild bleach, treated the wooden basket with food grade beeswax. I don't have the jar handy, but the type sold for conditioning cutting boards is what I used. It has lasted well through 3 harvests but is probably due another good coating this year. I used the wax on the screw too as it's a nice lubricant. Really nice thing about the wax is that clean up is extremely easy, cold water hose down is all I've ever had to do.
 
20110407_180139_11550_731731212.jpg
Wade said:
Pics or this Thread never happened!!!!!!



I realize this threat wasn't directed at me, but I found a picture of mine, mid-press...


FWIW, I left my metal unpainted but used the beeswax everywhere including the long screws and metal bracing etc... Leave it off the handles though
smiley1.gif
 
Chris,
That looks great. I like the beeswax idea. Did you do anything to the wood before applying the wax, like sanding, for example? Thanks for your input.
 
I had a few cracks in the wooden base plate that would have leaked, so I actually used some wood filler which I then sanded down, but if I had any chips or splinteringwood, yes, I'd sandthose too. I think I might have cleaned the saw dust off with mineral spirits prior to waxing.


I also thought about taking the rings off the basket but thought I'd never reassemble it correctly and since it was structurally sound, I left it alone.
 
Chris,


Do you have any concerns about the mineral spirits? (Or did you mean to say mineral oil?) It would be a good question for IBGlowin, but I would be somewhat concerned about residual chemicals, particularly after being sealed under the beeswax.


If I sand my wood parts, I think I will remove any sanding dust with a damp rag and then apply the beeswax. The only wood on mineare the slats on the basket and the various blocks that ones uses to press down on the grape skins. The rest is either machined steel ormachined iron castings.
 
Rocky said:
Chris,


Do you have any concerns about the mineral spirits? (Or did you mean to say mineral oil?) It would be a good question for IBGlowin, but I would be somewhat concerned about residual chemicals, particularly after being sealed under the beeswax.


If I sand my wood parts, I think I will remove any sanding dust with a damp rag and then apply the beeswax. The only wood on mineare the slats on the basket and the various blocks that ones uses to press down on the grape skins. The rest is either machined steel ormachined iron castings.



Not really... I found the old dried out wood, at least in my case, really soaked in the mineral spirits and while I didn't douse the wood in solvent, a rag in spirits cleaned and conditioned the wood in one step. Left to dry overnight before applying any wax, I doubt enoughsolvent would be left topenetrate the wax and enter the fruit.


I don't have any data or analysis to prove that though. I've made 3 batches of wine fit for human consumption (and 1 I'd say NOT, but unrelated to the press) and I haven't killed anyone... yet.
smiley1.gif
 

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