New basket press question

[CoastalEmpireWine]

i just received my very first basket press. I was cleaning it off today and as I was drying it if I noticed a black oil like residue that smells metallic on the rag. Is this machining oil? Is there a way to remove out so I do not contaminate my wine? I wasn't given any instruction besides to scrub it and sulfite the basket when I'm done. Notching about removing machining oil, is that is what it is. Any advise? I can get a picture of the black residue if that helps. There was no rust on the unit. I haven't used it yet.

 

[Johnd]

Before using mine for the first time, I cleaned it with a very mild detergent to remove any production residue, and rinsed it thoroughly. If your wood isn’t sealed, I’d recommend this: EZ-DO Food Safe Wood Coating

once your basket and press are clean, wood sealed properly, then yes, sulfite it before use.

 

[CoastalEmpireWine]

Before using mine for the first time, I cleaned it with a very mild detergent to remove any production residue, and rinsed it thoroughly. If your wood isn’t sealed, I’d recommend this: EZ-DO Food Safe Wood Coating

once your basket and press are clean, wood sealed properly, then yes, sulfite it before use.

I will have to do that. I scrubbed out with PBW but it did not remove that. I was told to leave the basket alone and natural. I will look into it. I want it to last as long as possible.

 

[Cellar Vader]

Before using mine for the first time, I cleaned it with a very mild detergent to remove any production residue, and rinsed it thoroughly. If your wood isn’t sealed, I’d recommend this: EZ-DO Food Safe Wood Coating

once your basket and press are clean, wood sealed properly, then yes, sulfite it before use.

Ironically, I have been eyeing a basket press myself, and wondered how best to revitalize it (it is used.) thanks for the link John.
Question: I considered straight linseed oil, briefly, then thought it might not be prudent to have juice in contact with the oil residue. Would there, in fact, be an issue with that? I suspect so.

 

[Johnd]

Ironically, I have been eyeing a basket press myself, and wondered how best to revitalize it (it is used.) thanks for the link John.
Question: I considered straight linseed oil, briefly, then thought it might not be prudent to have juice in contact with the oil residue. Would there, in fact, be an issue with that? I suspect so.

Can't say that I know the answer, but why take the chance? The EZ-DO works great and has lasted for years after its initial application..........

 

[Cellar Vader]

Can't say that I know the answer, but why take the chance? The EZ-DO works great and has lasted for years after its initial application..........

Sounds right to me. Thx again!

 

[mainshipfred]

Regarding the black residue I can only imagine it is a lubricant they used on the post. It would be hard for me to believe it is not food grade.

 

[Sailor323]

I would not use anything to seal the wood. In the first place, wood is anti-bacterial. Then, you can always spray it down with a meta solution (though I never have)

 

[Bliorg]

Ironically, I have been eyeing a basket press myself, and wondered how best to revitalize it (it is used.) thanks for the link John.
Question: I considered straight linseed oil, briefly, then thought it might not be prudent to have juice in contact with the oil residue. Would there, in fact, be an issue with that? I suspect so.

Linseed oil (not boiled linseed oil) is a food safe finish. Boiled linseed oil has metallic dryers added to speed curing. Pure linseed oil will eventually cure, but it is slow, and doesn't build. Pure tung oil, also food safe, is a better choice IMO. Dries to a hard finish, and will build if you want it to.

EZ-DO is polyurethane. Your call on which you'd rather have in contact with your wine. Likely 6 of one...

 

[CoastalEmpireWine]

Linseed oil (not boiled linseed oil) is a food safe finish. Boiled linseed oil has metallic driers added to speed curing. Pure linseed oil will eventually cure, but it is slow, and doesn't build. Pure tung oil, also food safe, is a better choice IMO. Dries to a hard finish, and will build if you want it to.

EZ-DO is polyurethane. Your call on which you'd rather have in contact with your wine. Likely 6 of one...

I think I'm going to keep the wood natural. The main concern I had when I purchased this press, the gentlemen told me to scrub everything good with PBW or B Brite, spray the basket with a k meta solution, food grade lube the moving parts and threads, let the basket dry and cover with an old sheet. When I scrubbed the screw with PBW and wiped it dry I got a greasy black film come off. I was curious/concerned if that may have been machining lubricant or something of that nature to prevent rust while it shipped to the US from Italy.

 

[Bliorg]

...or something of that nature to prevent rust while it shipped to the US from Italy.

+1. Most likely that. When I've received new machinery that has been oiled to prevent rust in transport, I wipe down with either mineral spirits or VM&P naphtha to remove. In this case, that's what I'd do, let the solvent dry thoroughly, then scrub the he77 out of it with PBW. My $0.02. FWIW. YMMV.

 

[Cellar Vader]

Some really good input here. Thx to all!

 

[CoastalEmpireWine]

+1. Most likely that. When I've received new machinery that has been oiled to prevent rust in transport, I wipe down with either mineral spirits or VM&P naphtha to remove. In this case, that's what I'd do, let the solvent dry thoroughly, then scrub the he77 out of it with PBW. My $0.02. FWIW. YMMV.

I have some 91% isopropyl alcohol. I might give that a try and see got it works. Quarantined at the moment so I cannot go anywhere. If the alcohol didn’t work I’ll move to mineral spirits. I believe there are some that are food grade.

 

[pete1325]

We never seal the basket. We power wash after pressing, K-Meta and store until the next season. All's well.