Primary fermentation done ... what next?

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Stu Barbour

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Hello

I hope someone can help me because I am getting confused messages from everywhere else I look. I am trying to make simple white grape wine from my vines in the garden. This is the 3rd year running, but yrs 1 and met with limited success. The main reason I think is because I am unsure what to do after primary fermentation completes. So I have:
1) Harvested, Separated, Crushed
2) given 24hrs in a brewing bin with pectolase and campden tabs
3) Pressed and strained
4) up to 14 days primary fermentation (currently ongoing)

I know that I have to kill the fermentation with potassium sorbate and campdens, bottle, age, Secondary fermentation?? I am just not sure what order or how long for, etc.

Please help,
Stu
 
It's really all one fermentation. It slows down. The "rule of thumb" is if there is no change in the hydrometer reading for three days in a row and the SG is 1.0000 or below, preferably below, then the fermentation is done. You don't/can't stop an active fermentation.

I suggest you go to Jack Keller's winemaking website and read his basic instructions.

Don't bottle until you're sure the fermentation is over. You do need to get the wine siphoned to a clean, narrow necked container to get the wine off the gross lees.

Visit and STUDY Keller's website. You need to understand the basics.

Best wishes!
 
Hello

I hope someone can help me because I am getting confused messages from everywhere else I look. I am trying to make simple white grape wine from my vines in the garden. This is the 3rd year running, but yrs 1 and met with limited success. The main reason I think is because I am unsure what to do after primary fermentation completes. So I have:
1) Harvested, Separated, Crushed
2) given 24hrs in a brewing bin with pectolase and campden tabs
3) Pressed and strained
4) up to 14 days primary fermentation (currently ongoing)

I know that I have to kill the fermentation with potassium sorbate and campdens, bottle, age, Secondary fermentation?? I am just not sure what order or how long for, etc.

Please help,
Stu

Taking it from the point where you have your clear juice in the fermenter with yeast on board:
1. Allow the wine to ferment down to 1.000
2. Rack out of the fermenter and into a new vessel (like a carboy) that allows you to install an airlock and limit airspace. Let the wine continue to ferment in the vessel until the SG is BOTH below .998 AND doesn't change for 3 days in a row. This signifies the end of alcoholic fermentation.
3. Rack off of the lees, into a vessel with an airlock, eliminating as much air space as possible. If using a carboy, get the level up to 1" - 1.5" below the bung. Add sulfite to protect your wine from microbial nasties and oxidation.
4. Unless you are doing chardonnay, white wines don't need to go through MLF.
5. Time in the carboy will clear your wine, you don't need to do anything but wait. When lees accumulate to be 1" or so, you can rack off of them, top up, put the airlock back on, and let it sit more.
6. During this time of clearing and bulk aging, you should add 1/4 tsp sulfite every 3 months
7. When your wine is crystal clear and free of sediment, you can bottle it. If you desire to sweeten it prior to bottling, add potassium sorbate, the appropriate amount of sugar, let it sit for a week or so, then bottle.
 
Taking it from the point where you have your clear juice in the fermenter with yeast on board:
1. Allow the wine to ferment down to 1.000
2. Rack out of the fermenter and into a new vessel (like a carboy) that allows you to install an airlock and limit airspace. Let the wine continue to ferment in the vessel until the SG is BOTH below .998 AND doesn't change for 3 days in a row. This signifies the end of alcoholic fermentation.
3. Rack off of the lees, into a vessel with an airlock, eliminating as much air space as possible. If using a carboy, get the level up to 1" - 1.5" below the bung. Add sulfite to protect your wine from microbial nasties and oxidation.
4. Unless you are doing chardonnay, white wines don't need to go through MLF.
5. Time in the carboy will clear your wine, you don't need to do anything but wait. When lees accumulate to be 1" or so, you can rack off of them, top up, put the airlock back on, and let it sit more.
6. During this time of clearing and bulk aging, you should add 1/4 tsp sulfite every 3 months
7. When your wine is crystal clear and free of sediment, you can bottle it. If you desire to sweeten it prior to bottling, add potassium sorbate, the appropriate amount of sugar, let it sit for a week or so, then bottle.
Thanks for this. Can you give me an idea of how long the stages take after initial (fast) fermentation? for instance how long does 2) above take? days? or months?
 
It's really all one fermentation. It slows down. The "rule of thumb" is if there is no change in the hydrometer reading for three days in a row and the SG is 1.0000 or below, preferably below, then the fermentation is done. You don't/can't stop an active fermentation.

I suggest you go to Jack Keller's winemaking website and read his basic instructions.

Don't bottle until you're sure the fermentation is over. You do need to get the wine siphoned to a clean, narrow necked container to get the wine off the gross lees.

Visit and STUDY Keller's website. You need to understand the basics.

Best wishes!
This seems really helpful thanks. http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/racking.asp
 
Times vary with temperatures, yeast varieties and a number of other conditions. It can take from 2-3 days to 2-3 weeks easily for a wine to finish all fermenation. That's the reason for using a hydrometer and the "3 day Rule of Thumb"

The ONLY way to track progress of fermentation with any sure accuracy is with a Hydrometer. It's a simple inexpensive tool that EVERY wine maker should have. A testing tube also helps you use the hydrometer when fermenting in shallower containers or narrow necked carboys.
 
How important is it to get the same SG reading 3 days day in a row? I have a batch that is 14 days from racking to the secondary carboy. The SP is 0.96. I cannot imagine that this will go lower than that.Plus the foam/bubbles are gone from the top. From a timing it would be easier to rack today then wait another day, but will follow the 3 day advice this time because I don't want to risk exploding bottles. Is the 3 day rule of thumb something never to risk changing?
 
How important is it to get the same SG reading 3 days day in a row? I have a batch that is 14 days from racking to the secondary carboy. The SP is 0.96. I cannot imagine that this will go lower than that.Plus the foam/bubbles are gone from the top. From a timing it would be easier to rack today then wait another day, but will follow the 3 day advice this time because I don't want to risk exploding bottles. Is the 3 day rule of thumb something never to risk changing?


First of all, I assume you mean that your current SG (I don't know what SP is) measures 0.996. Is this correct?
So this must is currently in a bucket? I agree with you that, if your SG is 0.996, it is safe to rack to a carboy now. Even if it is still dropping, it can do that in the carboy.

The decision as to when to bottle is a more serious decision. Best to put it off for a looong time.
 
Sorry typo. Yes SG. I had racked it to a carboy for secondary fermentation with airlock and the reading is now 0.996. It is good to know that the 3 day rule of thumb is not critical. Cause sometimes things get in the way of winemaking.
 
The key is to avoid 1) leaving wine on the Lee's too long Unless you are doing a Sur Lie process. 2) when fermentation ends the amount of protective CO2 gas drops off and you really don't want to expose that wine to oxygen
If you are under airlock the latter is much less of a issue.
So the 3 day rule of thumb is a guide more so to determine when to declare fermentation has completed since not every batch will ferment down to .990. Personally once a wine hits 1.005 I'm normally ok if stops there.
 
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