Welch's White Grape Peach Tips?

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No. Is that a mistake? Now, you have me thinking! I have never used pectic enzyme following fermentation.
 
as am I as i have a racking of white grape and peach due to come off this thursday and i added petic enzyme at the beginning as well (somewhere i have read or spoken to or over heard that you needed to add petic due to the peach to reduce hazing and so far it is working adding kc clear tonight to have ready hopefully by thursday
 
Was the concentrate you added a wine conditioner or another can of the original concentrate???
thats all i was trying to get at. Naturally if you added more of the original juice concentrare you would have the pectin added also and would require the enzyme again. This is just an asumption. I have no experience putting more concentrate in a batch that has stopped fermenting.
When I do a 1 gallon batch, it is for drinking when new and i dont worry about clearing unless it happens in a monh by itself.Edited by: scotty
 
Guess what ????
My white grape peach isnt clearing even after I used super clear and waited 24 hours.Its better and did drop a lot of sedimenteven though it is not clear. I then tretreated it again with pectic enzyme and 24 hours later it still is not clear.
Since i have 4 gallons of it, i will put 3 gallons into a 3 gallon carboy and bulk it for a couple of months. The apricot was star bright after 2 months and nothing was added to help it clear.
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Edited by: scotty
 
A test for pectic haze/AND a question also.







Pectin Haze
:
The most common cause of a haze in wine is the presence of pectin, which forms gelatinous solutions in the wine. The problem is aggravated if the must is initially boiled to extract flavor, color or both. To check if a haze is pectin in origin, add 3-4 fluid ounces of methylated spirit to a fluid ounce of wine. If jelly-like clots or strings form, then the problem is most likely pectin and should be treated.





Methylated spirit
(Meths or denatured alcohol — but not Rubbing alcohol which is different [1]) is ethanol which has been rendered toxic or otherwise undrinkable, and in some cases dyed. It is used for purposes such as fuel for spirit burners and camping stoves, and as a solvent. Traditionally, the main additive was 10% methanol, which gave rise to its name, but this is not always the case now. There are diverse industrial uses for ethanol, and therefore literally hundreds of recipes for denaturing ethanol. Typical additives are methanol, isopropanol, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, denatonium, and even (uncommonly) aviation gasoline.




I have a bottle lebeled isopropyl alcohol 50%. It also says first aid anteseptic. There is nothing on the bottle that says rubbing alcohol.


Is this the same as the alcohol suggested in the pectin test and is the fact that it is 50%(whatever) a reason for the test to fail???
I want to test the wine before i set it in the back room to attempt clearing it on it's own.
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additional research has shown me that this 50% stuff is definitly cheap rubbing alcohol.
I am not deleating my previous posts because my mistakes may be of some value to someone else and also someone may want to set me straight about this testing business. The link for rubbing alcohol explains a lot i believe.
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Edited by: scotty
 
You can get denatured ethanol at the hardware store. It is the solvent used to dilute shellac flakes to make shellac. It is sold as "Denatured Alcohol," and costs a couple of bucks per quart.

Methanol is CH3OH (1 carbon), ethanol is CH3CH2OH (two carbons), isopropanol is CH3CH2(OH)CH3 (3 carbons, with the OH on the middle carbon), and n-propanol (or normal propanol) is 3 carbons with the OH on the end carbon.

Methanol, aka wood alcohol, is a deadly poison, a nerve toxin. A couple of ounces of methanol and you are permanently blind. A couple more ounces and you are dead. Ethylene glycol - CH2(OH)CH2(OH) - is the main ingredient in antifreeze, and works the same way. Never dump antifreeze where your pets can get at it, because ehtlyene glycol tastes sweet and they will lap it up.

Ethanol is denatured for a couple of reasons, one chemical and one financial/social. When the Brazilians started selling E85 (85% ethanol) as motor fuel people would buy it and cut it for drinking. They call it penga. (WWII sailors also did this with torpedo fuel, which was the same thing.) That's why Brazil started adding 5% gasoline to "denature" it. Even today the workers who make it routinely bring empty bottles to the distillery to fill at the 85% QC tap (170 proof) before the gasoline is added.

Alcohol that is drinkable, like Everclear, is about 95% ethanol and 5% water. It is regulated and taxed by the BATFE just like any distilled spirit. That's the financial/social reason.

The chemical reason for denatured ethanol is that some processes, like making shellac, work better if there is zero water present. You cannot distill ethanol beyond 95% unless you add what is called an azeotrope. In my college days benzene was the azeotrope of choice, because you only needed about 0.1%. Since benzene is now classified as a carcinogen, they use other alcohols like butanol and hexanol, made from oil, as the azeotrope to get the last of the water out.
 
Thanks Pete.
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I'll head to the hardware store and pick up some denatured alcohol.
Im in the process of getting a still built to fortify and have been doing a lot of research on distillation. Im trying to get decent plans for a 6 gallon reflux still. It's still in the idea stage though. lol Building an efficient maintainable tower is the trick


http://www.homedistiller.org/static_menu.htm

Edited by: scotty
 
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