Wine Making Table

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Many of you remember the wine making table I made several years ago with a slate tile top. It has a strong 2x4 frame with reinforcement every 16". The top has 3/4" plywood with sign board on top of that and then slate. I was not totally happy with the unevenness the tile presented with the grout lines and all. This week I applied "Glaze Coat" (a product from Lowes) to the top which gives it a shiny glass like top. It is equal to something like 60 coats of varnish. I will stay off of it for the next week to let it completely cure. Below is the finished product.

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Wow!! Very Nice Dan. I've seen similar at resturants covering dining tables, with business cards underneath as advertisments. Does a very nice job!!

Al
 
Cool table for holding your carboys, what is more interesting is it looks like a mad scientist lab in the back there, how about a tour of the lab. CC
 
You know I always liked that table the way, it was just so cool looking. But I like what you did to it, that looks really nice.
 
very nice. does that glaze coat come in two parts that need to be mixed. About 28 years ago, my mother found some logs that were in the shape of a heart. She had my dad slice them about 2 inches thick then she glued a picture of me onto one and one of my sister onto the other, then coated it all with the same sort of glaze.
 
Cool table for holding your carboys, what is more interesting is it looks like a mad scientist lab in the back there, how about a tour of the lab. CC

Crack, take a look at "my new lab table" under this same section from last week. The glass doesn't really sow up good but if you wany another pic I could take it over and post.
 
Dan,
Just out of curiosity, how slick is that going to be? It is really good looking, but me being a clumsy as I am, I would worry about a carboy sliding on it. My main wine bench isn't pretty, but it is made out of bridge planks and bolted to the wall. At least it is sturdy. lol, Arne.
 
Dan, that is one beautiful table! Is that coating capable of hardening or is there a chance that it can be scratched by sliding carboys over it? One other comment, are you confident in the legs? Each one of them will have to bear 1/4 of the weight of the table top and everything on it. They appear to be oak. At least I would recommend gusseting the legs to the table top. What you essentially have is a "collapsible parallelogram" which relies on the attachment of the legs to the table top, which I would guess consists of four to six wood screws, if it is not gusseted.
 
Dan, that is one beautiful table! Is that coating capable of hardening or is there a chance that it can be scratched by sliding carboys over it? One other comment, are you confident in the legs? Each one of them will have to bear 1/4 of the weight of the table top and everything on it. They appear to be oak. At least I would recommend gusseting the legs to the table top. What you essentially have is a "collapsible parallelogram" which relies on the attachment of the legs to the table top, which I would guess consists of four to six wood screws, if it is not gusseted.

Hey Rocky, I don't believe the top will be as hard as the slate but thats ok. It is also suppose to be repairable from scatches. The table is first "a work table" then second for looks. The legs are actually newel stair posts upside down and cut off. The tops are about 3x3". The are actually fastened to the 2x4 frame with 3/8" lag bolts. They wont be going anywhere. You don't see them as the whole table is trimmed out with a 1x6 which is even additional support. The leggs are permenant and not removable even if I wanted to (unless if I cut them off).
 
It is basically what they use on Bar tops. Ive used something similar or the same to fill in some antique wood I had to make stair treads out of. What I used is also used for boats to seal them and is called the "West System" and also is 2 parts.
 
It would be nice to find a less expensive brand. This was about $70.00 a gallon and that is just what I used. Reading reviews it sounds like a large percentage of the people ruin their projects trying to use it. You have to follow the instructions exactly and measure out the two parts perfectly. They even spell out the mixing/stirring process and tell you not to go over or under the stirring times.
 
I believe my boss (jerk) had a company come in and do his floors in his house with it even though they had never worked with it. I dony believe thius stuff is meant for floors or big surfaces as there inst a huge amount of work time and so the compnay thinned it out a little to give them more time and it never dried. They had to come back, scrape it all up and then use something else. My boss was deadset on using this, why I dont know!
 
Good Lord Wade, I was second guessing myself to use it to set my carboys on and he wanted it on a floor??? I have seen bar tops with it and it looks awesome. I just wanted a level working surface and preserve something I made with my wife. She actually did the tiling and did a great job.
 
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