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This is a second year vine that was pruned to two buds in April. I'm letting all the leaves and vine shoots grow to build strength for next year. At the top you can see two shoots heading towards the top wire. They will become next years fruiting cordons.

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I will say sooner rather than later. The plant is expending energy for the grapes, rather than the vine. The sooner you eliminate them the energy can revert to vine production. This year you are developing the vine above ground, and the roots below ground. What you see above ground mirrors root...

Perfecto.

Probably prune everything that is not coming off the cordons you now have established. Personally, I prune the tendrils off as they appear, it makes the shoots less tangled and easier to maintain order.

As you consider your experiment it is one thing to compare production based on one thousand vines, and production based on one vine. One vine screams to every raccoon and varmint (deer) within ten miles to come and investigate it's uniqueness.

Altacor at $200 dollar for 16 ounces is pretty steep for backyard grapevines. I've used Sevin last couple of years, and found it very effective. Sevin is 32 ounces concentrate $13.50 at Walmart.

Without topping the vines like in this video, starting July15- September 1st, you could try chip and t-bud grafting. If they take, your ahead of the game next year, if not do the two varieties together route next year.

I have been playing around with grafting apples this spring. I don't have any experience with grapes, but think at least in theory you should be able to do it. There are tricks with each specie, so for sure you would want to study up ahead of time.

In Northern Illinois, forty plus inches of rain. No water issues here. I've never worked with drip irrigation in my life and have gardened for forty years. Our problems have to do with excess vigor and excess vegetation, plus disease pressure from rain and humidity, but we grow different...

You should study trellising concepts. You either need to go with top cordon or vertical shoot positioning. There are other options but what I have said is two choices to get you going.

I have no experience with your varities, and know nothing of your climate etc. But the pictures show healthy growth. Be sure you use some kind of a spray regimen. Do you need to irrigate or is there enough natural rainfall?

I have a little of that from time to time and attribute it to birds perching. I'm curious what others think.

A **** had a fatal accident here last night. I'm being proactive.

I have some Verona that I was a little late with growth getting to my top wire. The cordons were apparently to small, too immature, not enough hours on sun last year. So, I have lots of growth, but zero fruit clusters. Everything is getting everything established ,and next year, I should have...

I have often wondered what would happen if I chose not to follow a spray regimen. I too do not live to far from you. If you choose to continue not spraying, could you post more pictures throughout the season, and show us the progression of these diseases?

With a little bit of luck, it is more than possible it will send up another sprout.

I caught a feral cat last year and took it to the pound. I wasn't even sure what kind of an animal it was at first, kind of scary. Now I have chipmunks to deal with.

Grapes are probably different, but I have some apple tree grafts I made nine weeks ago that are leafing out this week.

There are lots of nice fotos appearing on this thread.