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It would take several vacuum rackings with the splash effect, to degas most wines. So while in a sense you are degassing, you're not degassing as a step in the wine making process. More of a side effect or added benefit, of the racking

1.075 is a little low for a beginner, a stuck/stalled fermentation would leave a beginner with a wine that is prone to spoilage or infection. For that reason, I would shoot for an SG between 1.085 and 1.090. 1118 would work, 1116 as well. They're both pretty surefire fermenters.

Well, they give you quite a bit to work with in the description. Zinfandel, Merlot, and Petite Sirah, fermented separately and blended later. I believe the creamy oak would be French. I haven't tried the wine, and don't have much experience with those grapes yet, but I'm sure you can...

Very nice! Different bottles, labels, shrink wraps - you went all out

I would be more inclined to lean towards the no-rinse solution. I only own two products for cleaning and sanitizing - OxyClean and K-Meta. The OxyClean get rinsed away several times, until I no longer smell it in the glass. The K-Meta I don't worry so much about. So ill OxyClean the whole batch...

10% ABV is usually considered the tipping point Usually needs a little extra sulfite, or drank quicker Mead and quick drinking don't usually go together.. kind of a waste of honey to drink it quick.

I came back while you were gone Oh, you said good.. My bad lol

Sure can, but check the ingredients list to make sure it doesn't contain potassium sorbate or benzoate. Most are pasteurized and contain ascorbic acid, both of which are fine. You'll want some sugar or honey to bump the SG up though. Do you have a Titretable Acidity kit, or a pH meter? And you...

I can already hear someone recommending Dragons Blood, which is a lighter fruit wine, but if you really want to get your feet wet, I'd recommend an Apple-Pear wine personally. 5 gallons of the best apple juice/cider you can find, and 15-20 pounds of pears, fermented cleanly with proper...

You'll lose some wine every time you rack the wine, and it's essential to keep the carboy topped up to keep the surface area to a minimum, lowering the risk of infection, spoilage and oxidation

They look like they could be stir sticks of some sort And the thing on/in the box is a filter set-up. I've never used one of those models but there's a lot of information out there on how they work. The upright square portion is where the filter pads go

The most important set of lees/sediment to remove, is the stuff that falls first. Have you racked off of this already? If so, what you're seeing now should be a finer grit, sur lees, made up of mostly spent yeast cells, where the first, gross lees, is mostly fruit particulate; you can wait a few...

Our smart mouths do get us in trouble occasionally lmao

Hey Jack, Welcome to WMT! Glad to have ya, even if it's only once in a blue; life happens. You're definitely well known around these parts Hope we can entice you into sticking around lol

Just FYI, I merged your two threads together because they're basically the same topic, in order to reduce clutter

In an attempt to 'seed' the batch to get it to drop more acidity quicker... but it is a bit unnecessary.

You'll pretty much have to freeze it, but if you plan to make wine from it, just freeze the whole berries. Less work up front, and the freezing action will turn the berries to mush when they thaw again. Then ferment the whole berries, separating the sediment out post-fermentation

If it's got half of the fermentation or more left to go, you should be okay to add generic yeast nutrient

Count me in too

Lol ya'll are funny; Just pectin enzyme pre-fermentation, bentonite on the 3rd day of fermentation, post-fermentation degassing with the vacuum pump.. and time. I also adjusted the pH/TA and sugar levels correctly pre-fermentation; fed the yeast with Go-Ferm and Fermaid-O for really clean...