2017 in the vineyard

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Taken today!

We're chugging along. Newest rows are growing well, and the 2 year old ones are out of control. I left a lot of fruit on the Frontenac (the row that makes up the background) even though I'm only in the second year on them. I had done some research, and came upon a study about increasing yield per acre (But decreasing yield per vine) by tightening up the spacing. So I don't need that much growth from each vine to fill up the trellis.

I knew Frontenac was really vigorous, so to try and control the second year vigor I figured I'd let the fruit stay on the vine to slow things down. No real effect on the growth I think, but at least I'll get some grapes out of it. Next year I anticipate they're going to be a bear to try and control. I'll have to stay on top of them.

Anyway, Veraison on the Frontenac, and a shot of the newer planting (I've got the Itasca in the grow tubes in the foreground.)

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came upon a study about increasing yield per acre (But decreasing yield per vine) by tightening up the spacing.

Yield per acre should be balanced with fruit quality and vine health. The goal is to find the sweet spot where all three are best served.

Overcropping to control vigor on vines planted too close may weaken the vine. Planting too closely also may force over pruning which can actually cause an increase in vigor and vegetative growth, potentially further shading fruit, decreasing quality, and weakening the vine.

There are generally recommended planting distances, but there is certainly a lot of debate on "best" planting distances that differ from those recommendations. And those "best" distances can differ between different sites. So "best" distances might only be found via trial and error over many years at each site.

So, in brief, one study should not be taken as definitive.
 
Certainly. I've got another row with wider spacing, and some vines where I culled the crop entirely. A little trial and error should give me plenty of information at the end. Leaving a partial crop on in this year seems to have no overall effect on the vigor (The cropless vines vs the cropped ones are both growing with plenty of vigor.). Can't say I'll repeat this for the newest plantings, simply because I don't notice any effect.

No discernible difference in health right now, although I imagine I may see some differences next year, especially as I start measuring the quality of the fruit between the different variables.

It's as unscientific as can be at the end of the day, because of the different levels of shade throughout the vineyard due to the neighbor's trees.

After all of my trial and error (emphasis on the error), ideally I'll discover that I have several rows of vines that are planted, trellised and managed sub-optimally for my area and climate. It'll be glorious.
 
Really quiet. Tucked shoots and pulled suckers the last couple of weeks. It has been hot, ~95-100, and smokey. No sign of verasion and the reds mostly are still the size of small peas. I'll water again this week.

Our friends in BC have it bad, but the smoke arrived this week. Believe it or not the Cascades are right behind town, just can't see 'em.

Really, they should be right there!

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No sign of verasion and the reds mostly are still the size of small peas.

My Welschriesling this year has similarly not started veraison yet. Might have a late harvest on that this year.

Meanwhile my Turán (aka Agria) is already at 19 brix. My earliest harvest was on August 26th in 2015. This year's Turán is heading to break that record.

Weird.

Believe it or not the Cascades are right behind town, just can't see 'em.

That takes me back a few years. Looks like a "normal" summer day in LA when I was a kid, looking at the San Gabriel Mountains.....
 
Here's an update from central Missouri. These vines went in this spring. They are trained to TWC. Many of the vines have cordons 3-4 feet in length with small spurs as you can see in the pics. Mostly this is Traminette and Vidal. The Norton, Chambourcin and others aren't quite as far along.

My question is, can or should I get any grapes next year from these vines which have the longer cordons? Or should I remove all the grapes in the second year per the standard recommendation?

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Looking good stressbaby. I'd pinch them all off again next year. I've read those that say you can leave grapes on any that lignify, but I've also read those that say it stunts the vine in the long run. So, in the end I just waited till the third leaf as the old Jewish law says. Worked for me but I'm half a continent away from you and I'd say my site is nowhere near as vigorous as yours.

A note, as I mowed tonight I see the Malbec and Merlot have started verasion. Weird, and a good week or more earlier than I've ever seen. I guess it is time to start checking sugars and putting on nets:a1
 
My question is, can or should I get any grapes next year from these vines which have the longer cordons? Or should I remove all the grapes in the second year per the standard recommendation?

You can think of growing vines like a couch potato training for a monthly marathon.

Trying to do a marathon after only a month of training will not only result in very poor performance in that first marathon, but will result in much more post marathon fatigue which will result in poorer performance in marathons for months to come. While if one can train for two, or even three months to get really into shape one can do very well in their first and all subsequent marathons.

Similarly, new vines need to set down a good root system capable of storing and supplying enough energy and nutrients to provide a reliable yearly crop without weakening the vines. So it is prudent to give vines at least two years to develop a root system before stressing the plant by making if grow fruit. And growing fruit is a stress, because the vine is having to balance what amount of its energy it has to put into growing, energy storage, or fruit development. By delaying asking the vine to produce fruit, the stronger and healthier the vine will be in the long term.
 
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Started netting today. Tempranillo, merlot and Malbec have all started verasion. I cut out two more Tempranillo vines. I don't know what they have, I suspect leafroll although they came from a certified vineyard. Anyway, nine in a row had it, so they are gone.

I dropped some clusters on the cab sauv, I had more than I needed last year so I'll see what a lower yield does. I pulled leaves on the north side of the whites as well. Temperature finally dropped and with a high go 80 and the smoke gone, it was a good day to be in the vineyard.

picture is how the nets go on. Only two of us today, so a bit more work.

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Living and learning this year lost my Cab S, Petite V and Can Franc to powdery mildew. I guess I will need to figure out what to spray for that next year. The good news is my vio looks good and I will have another small row coming into production for the fall of 2018.
 
Stressbaby I would say that there seems to be a world of difference regarding vigor of the European origin grapes vs the American hybrids grown in the U.S. Midwest. Most of the "rules of thumb" and printed advice available references the European varieties. Regarding vigor, I see pictures of vines from well established vineyards in California and Oregon that bear no semblance to the Hybrids that I am growing. The plants are much smaller and contained. It seems that your vines are spaced relatively close together and have developed quite well. I would caution that if you don't allow a small crop next year (to limit vigor) that you will end up with a mass of overgrown foliage. This has been my experience. It seems that comparing the European varieties with grafted root stock to Midwestern hybrids is almost an apples and oranges comparison. Note the difference in the photos that Johnny99 (state of Washington) posted and compare them with yours. Note the difference both of soils, vines and the semi-arid climate.
 
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Stressbaby I would say that there seems to be a world of difference regarding vigor of the European origin grapes vs the American hybrids grown in the U.S. Midwest. Most of the "rules of thumb" and printed advice available references the European varieties. Regarding vigor, I see pictures of vines from well established vineyards in California and Oregon that bear no semblance to the Hybrids that I am growing. The plants are much smaller and contained. It seems that your vines are spaced relatively close together and have developed quite well. I would caution that if you don't allow a small crop next year (to limit vigor) that you will end up with a mass of overgrown foliage. This has been my experience. It seems that comparing the European varieties with grafted root stock to Midwestern hybrids is almost an apples and oranges comparison. Note the difference in the photos that Johnny99 (state of Washington) posted and compare them with yours. Note the difference both of soils, vines and the semi-arid climate.

Thanks I appreciate that input. My spacing is 8 feet. So some of these vines have grown to a 5 1/2 foot top wire and 4 feet down the top wire in just this first year.

That vigor is what I'm worried about. This ground has been cow pasture for 20 years. Good dark topsoil over clay. In the past it has been overseeded with clover as well. We've had pretty even moisture this year as well.
 
Does everyone on the East side of the mountains put their nets on in the nude? I thought that was only a West side sort of thing! :)

Temperature finally dropped and with a high go 80 and the smoke gone, it was a good day to be in the vineyard.

picture is how the nets go on. Only two of us today, so a bit more work.
 
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Meanwhile my Turán (aka Agria) is already at 19 brix. My earliest harvest was on August 26th in 2015. This year's Turán is heading to break that record.

Quoting myself, because I was right.

My Turán got about as ripe as it would this week. And to avoid pulling in over ripe grapes later, and with a storm coming tonight, I made the call to harvest today.
 
Looking for some direction. This is my 1st time working with grapes off the vine. This is more of a fun project than anything else given the circumstances.

Some background info:
- ive been given carte Blanche to harvest and turn some grapes into wine.
- Vines have not ever been used for wine, but are definitely wine grapes.
-8-9 yrs old. Are radically overgrown and have never been pruned or maintained for
winemaking purposes. Seems like they were for decor and the birds.
-northeast US climate
-I don't know the varietals
Reds
The red grapes are all on only ONE Overgrown vine. So right away I have zero expectations They are looking healthy though.
- Brix 15%.
-ph 3.5
-veraison in 100%
-seeds light colored. Green/white
- stems bright green
-taste sweet low on acidity.
Whites
The whites are coming from 2 separate vines that are insanely overgrown. Draping a 8x15 canopy/trellis and onto a structure next to it. Very big area. All on 2 vines. Again, no expectations. The whites have died this year and last. Most of them. Thought it was odd to see dried up shriveled clusters (dark brown stems) with good grapes randomly within. No full healthy clusters at all. But over a large area there's quite a bit of good grapes.

Brix 17-18%
Ph 3.6
Seeds brown
Stems brown
Taste good. Lots of flavor.

Making wine with these regardless. Planned on waiting longer and periodically checking Brix until ripe. Again, just a fun project. And no expectations. Please feel free to give input if anything jumps out to you.

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