Anyone Growing Marquette Grapes?

[vinividivici]

If not too many clusgters, remove them and make sure to use a fungicide for it. You may save some if the vines aren't too bad.

I went row by row last evening and I estimate about 20% of the clusters aren't affected - yet. Regardless of that, should the entire vineyard be sprayed to save the vines? I read that the infected parts should be pruned and burned, but it didn't say if that's done in the Fall, Winter or early Spring.

So much for trying to go organic...

 

[grapeman]

You can still try organic but make sure the fungicide you choose will control your diseases - Powdery mildew, downy mildew, black rot and phomopsis and possibly anthracnose. Prune in the spring and remove shoots with blisters on them and burn if you can. Begin fungicide sprays early to try to keep the diseases at bay.

 

[vinividivici]

You can still try organic but make sure the fungicide you choose will control your diseases - Powdery mildew, downy mildew, black rot and phomopsis and possibly anthracnose. Prune in the spring and remove shoots with blisters on them and burn if you can. Begin fungicide sprays early to try to keep the diseases at bay.

Thanks, Rich. Exactly the info I need at this point.
I hope things are going well for you.

Bob

 

[NorthSlopeVineyard]

Hello to the thread,

I just wanted to add my $.02. I planted 32 bareroot Marquette in Billings, MT this spring. Vines are at around 3600', 6 feet apart, 6' rows. Soil is a compacted sandy loam, pH about 7.4. I installed a drip irrigation system and am watering about 5 gal/plant/week. Our weather is quite hot and dry in the summer (85-100 in the day, 60 at night). Winter minimum can hit -25.

Trellis is a two-wire, and I will arrange as a TWC. Wires are set at about 47" and 66" nominally.

Based on this thread and other reading, I'm expecting a small crop in 2015 and a fuller crop in 2016.

Thanks to everyone for your contribution and especially to grapeman.

 

[vinividivici]

Hello to the thread,

I just wanted to add my $.02. I planted 32 bareroot Marquette in Billings, MT this spring. Vines are at around 3600', 6 feet apart, 6' rows. Soil is a compacted sandy loam, pH about 7.4. I installed a drip irrigation system and am watering about 5 gal/plant/week. Our weather is quite hot and dry in the summer (85-100 in the day, 60 at night). Winter minimum can hit -25.

Trellis is a two-wire, and I will arrange as a TWC. Wires are set at about 47" and 66" nominally.

Based on this thread and other reading, I'm expecting a small crop in 2015 and a fuller crop in 2016.

Thanks to everyone for your contribution and especially to grapeman.

North, welcome to the thread and forum. Sounds like you are very well prepared! Good luck and post updates for us.

Bob

PS: we went through your area last week on Amtrak's Empire Builder. Managed to see Glacier Mtn during the daylight this time. Stunning.

 

[chrisvt]

With the arrival of warmer temperatures in Vermont I'm bumping this thread to the top. We planted 180 vines last spring, primarily Marquette with a some St. Croix, Reliance and Vanessa. 50 Petite Pearl vines will be going in this spring. I've found this thread (and forum) extremely helpful as I prepare for our 2nd season. I have a few lingering questions:

1.) re: backpack sprayers - I'm looking at the Hudson SP0 and the Solo 475 deluxe. The primary difference between the two is the psi - the Hudson can generate 150psi while the Solo is limited to 60psi. Does this psi difference matter for spraying grape vines?

2.) We'll be pruning our vines back to 3 or 4 buds which will leave us with a relatively small plant and it seems wasteful to use a backpack sprayer, at least until the plants gain some size. Should my initial sprays be with a smaller device or will the backpack sprayer be ok?

 

[grapeman]

1) Either spayer will do the job, the 150 PSI will penetrate a thick canopy better as the vines age. The thing is you don't want them to get so thick that the spraty won't penetrate with the 60PSI.
2) Just set the nozzle to give a nice fine spray and move along briskly. It will work fine even when small.

 

[HillPeople]

Speaking of spraying, what is the spray of choice among you growers for black rot and the mildews?

 

[chrisvt]

1) Either spayer will do the job, the 150 PSI will penetrate a thick canopy better as the vines age. The thing is you don't want them to get so thick that the spraty won't penetrate with the 60PSI.
2) Just set the nozzle to give a nice fine spray and move along briskly. It will work fine even when small.

Thanks! Hoping for less rain than last year.

 

[grapeman]

Speaking of spraying, what is the spray of choice among you growers for black rot and the mildews?

Unfortunately it takes a couple different sprays for control of all of them. The two mildews need two different sprays. I use Manzate (Mancozeb) and Rally for early season control. Consult the spray routine recommended for your state.

 

[NorthSlopeVineyard]

A little help here:
Some of my Marquette's didn't make it to the top wire last year. I've cut them down to 3 buds.
Others were at or above my top wire. The buds swole and I intended to grow cordons, however the growth is all coming from the bottom and middle buds, the top are doing nothing almost like the top of the vine is dead. Will the top start growing or should I cut the whole thing down? Can I retrain the cane from a strong shoot in the center of last years growth and cut the top off?

 

[grapeman]

It was a very cold winter most places this year. The more vigorous vines that got to the top last year probably did not harden off at the top enough to have those buds survive. You can cut back to the middle like you say and it will leave a slight crook- nothing major. You could also trim them back to near the base, but that might make them too vigorous and lead to bull canes. Oh the decisions............. Regardles of which way you do it, they will likely do just fine this year. Best of luck!

 

[HillPeople]

I have a similar problem with my Louise.
Most of the first year growth up to the first wire didn't survive the winter and so I pruned back to about 8" above ground this spring.
I now have 5-6 healthy shoots coming from the base.
My inclination is to remove all but two of the best, but perhaps the vine will establish better if it has more unruly foliage producing energy.
What would you do Rich?

 

[grapeman]

Take it down to a couple shoots and let them grow trunks this year.

 

[chrisvt]

Help! Due to a miscommunication, we applied double the recommended dose of Serenade fungicide to our marquette grapes(8oz per gallon instead of 4oz). My father read the label correctly as 4oz per gallon, I thought he said 4oz per half gallon and mixed incorrectly. We've applied other pesticides to other plants in the past and have have no excuse other than simply screwing up. I feel like an idiot.

Are our plants doomed? Our vines were planted last spring and pruned back to a few buds this spring so we're not talking huge canopies here.

 

[grapeman]

Serenade is a pretty gentle fungicide so no harm should come to the vines, especially with all the rain we have had again this year.

 

[chrisvt]

Serenade is a pretty gentle fungicide so no harm should come to the vines, especially with all the rain we have had again this year.

Thanks, Rich, you've put my mind at ease.

Aside from this the vines look great. We pruned back to 2 or 3 buds in early May and re-installed the grow tubes(they helped last season with some late frosts). The Marquettes have really taken off and as of yesterday many were already at/near the tops of the 30" tubes. Looks like we lost a few of the Reliance and Vanessa to the cold winter, but they were marginal for our area(Zone 5A) so not a surprise.

 

[grapeman]

The Reliance look the best of the zone 5 seedless on this side of the lake. Most of the rest look almost dead.

 

[exarkun]

I also have some Marquette vines that are in their 3rd year. This year I pruned them to double trunks to the top wire (6.5 feet). So far, the buds have only broken to 1 foot off the ground and there are a few suckers poking up. Should I trim down to the top most buds that are breaking, or will the top ones eventually break?

Thanks.

 

[grapeman]

It seems like if they were going to break, they would have by now. They may have frozen on you. You caqn either wait a while longer to see, or cut them back now. That would give them plenty of time to grow and later harden off.