Apple Cider Recipe *carbonated*

[LoveTheWine]

My latest batch smelled like crap (like vinegar) straight out of the press but after all fermentation ceased the smell was great.
Sometimes smells are just yeasty newly fermented wine/cider that improves as the dead yeast finish up and settle to the bottom of the carboy.
If it smells of rotten eggs it may be a H2S problem.

To deal with this, while racking between primary fermentation vessel and carboy hold the siphon hose near the top of the carboy allowing the cider to fall to the bottom splashing within the carboy. You can also pour the cider back and forth a few times between 2 carboys or buckets after racking. This introduces oxygen to drive off the bad smells.
http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/hydrogen_sulfide.htm

After fermentation is completely done you may want to add crushed up Campton tablets or 1/4 tsp sulfite powder (for 5 gallons) to protect the wine from further oxidizing or spoiling and will probably deal with some of the bad odor as well.
http://www.finevinewines.com/sulfites2.htm

After it's in the bottle later, carbonated, sweetened and aged a bit the apple smell will come back.

Have you taken a Hydrometer reading? What is your S.G. at?
http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/hydrometer_use.htm

 

[Rosa321]

My latest batch smelled like crap (like vinegar) straight out of the press but after all fermentation ceased the smell was great.
Sometimes smells are just yeasty newly fermented wine/cider that improves as the dead yeast finish up and settle to the bottom of the carboy.
If it smells of rotten eggs it may be a H2S problem.

To deal with this, while racking between primary fermentation vessel and carboy hold the siphon hose near the top of the carboy allowing the cider to fall to the bottom splashing within the carboy. You can also pour the cider back and forth a few times between 2 carboys or buckets after racking. This introduces oxygen to drive off the bad smells.
http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/hydrogen_sulfide.htm

After fermentation is completely done you may want to add crushed up Campton tablets or 1/4 tsp sulfite powder (for 5 gallons) to protect the wine from further oxidizing or spoiling and will probably deal with some of the bad odor as well.
http://www.finevinewines.com/sulfites2.htm

After it's in the bottle later, carbonated, sweetened and aged a bit the apple smell will come back.

Have you taken a Hydrometer reading? What is your S.G. at?
http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/hydrometer_use.htm

Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it.
Maybe I'm just being impatient. It HAS only been 9 days. haha

I've been taking SG readings, and they're "good" in that they're staying around 1.048. But I don't know if that's low enough.

As for the smell. I just nearly gave myself a headache sniffing it and trying to pinpoint it. haha It's not really rotten eggy. It's sour....but not really vinegary. You can smell yeast and hints of fermentation. It's more sour and just off smelling.....

But like I said. I've never been good with waiting things out. I guess I just have to hang on and see what happens. Any advice on when to rack to another carboy?

Thanks again!!!!!
Rosa

 

[Rosa321]

Wait!! Nevermind......I just re-read the recipe and you START at 1.050....

I read where you said to get to 1.00 and I didn't realize there was such a huge difference between 1.00 and 1.048. In mathematics, there isn't !!!

I added 2 lbs of brown sugar to already sweet unpasteurized local cider and only made 5 gallons. I was at 1.069 SG when I started.....Could it possibly take weeks and weeks to get all the way down to 1.00??


I also already added campden tablets as per my recipe (1/gallon since it was unpasteurized)....

 

[LoveTheWine]

Wait!! Nevermind......I just re-read the recipe and you START at 1.050....

I read where you said to get to 1.00 and I didn't realize there was such a huge difference between 1.00 and 1.048. In mathematics, there isn't !!!

I added 2 lbs of brown sugar to already sweet unpasteurized local cider and only made 5 gallons. I was at 1.069 SG when I started.....Could it possibly take weeks and weeks to get all the way down to 1.00??


I also already added campden tablets as per my recipe (1/gallon since it was unpasteurized)....

No It shouldn't take weeks and weeks to get to 1.00 SG
Probably around a week if temps are 70 degrees or more.
You are going to end up with 9% cider though.
Try warming the room up if it is cold and add a bit of yeast nutrient to feed the yeast.
Sometimes Cider does take a long time to ferment because it lacks nutrients.

You add campton at the start yes. by the time fermentation is completely done (SG below 1.00 for 3 days) the sulfite has bound itself to solids, oxygen
and evaporation. There will be little to none left in the cider at this point.
if sweetening and carbonating right away, no biggie.
If you are going to splash rack and age for a bit then it is wise to maybe add more at this point.

Your final SG is going to be below 1.00 probably aroung 0.995 or so if you used a wine yeast.
If you added ale yeast it may finish higher.

 

[Rosa321]

No It shouldn't take weeks and weeks to get to 1.00 SG
Probably around a week if temps are 70 degrees or more.
You are going to end up with 9% cider though.
Try warming the room up if it is cold and add a bit of yeast nutrient to feed the yeast.
Sometimes Cider does take a long time to ferment because it lacks nutrients.

You add campton at the start yes. by the time fermentation is completely done (SG below 1.00 for 3 days) the sulfite has bound itself to solids, oxygen
and evaporation. There will be little to none left in the cider at this point.
if sweetening and carbonating right away, no biggie.
If you are going to splash rack and age for a bit then it is wise to maybe add more at this point.

Your final SG is going to be below 1.00 probably aroung 0.995 or so if you used a wine yeast.
If you added ale yeast it may finish higher.

Thanks for all the guidance. This is why I make my students DO things!
We can read and read about it, but until we actually DO It, we don't figure out the process! ;-)

I used Nottingham Brewing Yeast because that was one the article I read recommended. It also recommended keeping the temperatures lower. That some cider brewers will go as low as 55F in their brew room! It recommended 60-65F so that's where I've been keeping it. And my house is naturally cold so I"ve been closer to the 60 side, but not worrying because the article and the Nottingham site (Lallemand http://www.danstaryeast.com/) said it's optimal temp could go as low as 57F.

Have you used Nottingham? Do you think if I raise the temp to 70 I'll have better results?

Thanks again. Sorry for all the questions. But I'm definitely VERY new at this

 

[LoveTheWine]

Thanks for all the guidance. This is why I make my students DO things!
We can read and read about it, but until we actually DO It, we don't figure out the process! ;-)

I used Nottingham Brewing Yeast because that was one the article I read recommended. It also recommended keeping the temperatures lower. That some cider brewers will go as low as 55F in their brew room! It recommended 60-65F so that's where I've been keeping it. And my house is naturally cold so I"ve been closer to the 60 side, but not worrying because the article and the Nottingham site (Lallemand http://www.danstaryeast.com/) said it's optimal temp could go as low as 57F.

Have you used Nottingham? Do you think if I raise the temp to 70 I'll have better results?

Thanks again. Sorry for all the questions. But I'm definitely VERY new at this

Sorry I wrongly assumed your ferment was stuck or stopped. If it is still rolling you can ferment at the lower temps and it will turn out great.

Nottingham is an excellent choice for cider. Neutral taste and will preserve more apple flavor then wine yeast.

I brewed a beer last year with it @ 53 degrees.
raising the temp will only make the ferment go faster.
Keeping it low creates a nice cider but it will take longer to get to the desired SG for which to rack to second vessel. Either way it will taste fine.

No need say sorry. I ask many questions too. Everyone here is happy to help.

 

[Rosa321]

Well......I hope it's not stuck.
I've done wine kits. And to be honest, they're pretty fool proof. I'd just map out the dates on my calendar and not do any of the "dirty work" so to speak!
I'm still getting used to the hydrometer. I hope I'm doing it right. I've watched a bunch of videos on Youtube! hahaha
But I'm not 100% certain. :-/

I'll see what the SG continues to read...... Too early too give up!!!

 

[LoveTheWine]

Here it is the finished product.
I ended up pasteurizing by: Pre heating bottles in pot with hot tap water, bring water in another pot to 180 degrees, turn off heat and add 9 or 10 bottles, time it 10 min. then take out bottles and let cool. repeat with next 10 bottles. I had two bottles break in the covered pot about 5 min. in the process.

The cider is quite clear now and tastes amazing!

 

[Rosa321]

Yeah..... So first of all, Merry Christmas to those who celebrate!

Secondly, I just checked and my SG is only at about 1.022-1.021. It's going down, but SOOOOOO slowly. And now it's starting to smell yeasty.

Is this ok? Should I just let it keep chugging along?
Should I still keep it in the initial container?

THANK YOU!!!

 

[LoveTheWine]

Yeah..... So first of all, Merry Christmas to those who celebrate!

Secondly, I just checked and my SG is only at about 1.022-1.021. It's going down, but SOOOOOO slowly. And now it's starting to smell yeasty.

Is this ok? Should I just let it keep chugging along?
Should I still keep it in the initial container?

THANK YOU!!!

Wow it's taking it's sweet time.
Cider is kinda notorious for this, probably deficient in a few nutrients and if it's cold in your room it will take a lot longer.
Adding nutrients at this time however is not a good idea.
If it is dropping, I would assume things are ok.
You could rack now if you want but it may stall the fermentation as racking leaves yeast behind.
You could stir the yeast up a bit and warm up the carboy slightly, or just be patient.


One thing to keep in mind for future reference (for all cider/beer/wine): Making a yeast starter and pouring this into the juice gets the fermentation off to a roaring start.(as opposed to sprinkling it on top of the juice or simply rehydrating)


This is how I do it: Rehydrate yeast in a large sterilized measuring cup, precisely to package directions. After 15 min stir up yeast and add 10 ml of the juice you will be fermenting. Five min later add more juice. Keep doing this every hour, in larger increments for 12-24 hrs then pour the 1-2 liters of liquid yeast into the fermenter. By this time you have a lot of acclimatized yeast that will devour the juice quickly and efficiently.

 

[Rosa321]

Thanks for tip!! I did simply follow package directions fir rehydration, but I will try that next time.

Gunna go shake those little yeasties up! ;-)

 

[Rosa321]

Finally......FINALLY!!!!!!!! I hit 0.998
WOO HOO!!!!! I think because it's been SOOOOO uncharacteristically cold this winter, AND because my recipe did not call for yeast nutrients, it took FOREVER (Well not really, but it felt that way hehe) to get here.

I transferred to another carboy. Since I've managed to contain my impatience thus far.....I suppose I'm game for a bit of "bulk aging" ;-) How do I know when it's "drinkable"? lol

Rosa

 

[LoveTheWine]

The journey continues!
I would be bottling pretty quickly if it is fairly clear. Bulk aging won't hurt it either though.

 

[Rosa321]

Oh......Okay!

For some reason, form what I read, I thought Cider was better when it sat and sat and sat............

I'm just not sure at what point it's "drinkable" lol.......do you just open bottles and try them? Or do you have a general amount of time that you let it sit and age?

 

[LoveTheWine]

I bottle fairly quickly... 2-3 months from start to finish especially when using Nottingham.
At bottling I sweeten , carbonate, pasteurize and let sit a further month.
If carbonating in the bottle, sediment will be in there anyways. Cider that is a small amount cloudy is OK with me as well.

 

[Rosa321]

I bottle fairly quickly... 2-3 months from start to finish especially when using Nottingham.
At bottling I sweeten , carbonate, pasteurize and let sit a further month.
If carbonating in the bottle, sediment will be in there anyways. Cider that is a small amount cloudy is OK with me as well.

ok! I've assembled help and I'm ready to get this show on the road
I'm a little clueless about how much I should sweeten.. Does this work like wine? Will it develop and sweeten overtime? or should i sweeten it to my liking before bottling?
is there any general rule for how much sugar to add?
also are you using just plain white sugar?

THANK YOU!!!! :-D

 

[LoveTheWine]

ok! I've assembled help and I'm ready to get this show on the road
I'm a little clueless about how much I should sweeten.. Does this work like wine? Will it develop and sweeten overtime? or should i sweeten it to my liking before bottling?
is there any general rule for how much sugar to add?
also are you using just plain white sugar?

THANK YOU!!!! :-D

It may sweeten a little over time. Mine never lasts long enough to test that theory

There are basically 3 ways to do it if you want to sweeten and carbonate:

a) Add pot. sorbate and sugar to taste and then force carbonate in a keg with Co2

b) Add a non fermentable sugar (splenda, nutrasweet, etc...) then add a premeasured amount of sugar (priming sugar). Use this calculator:
http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

c) Add sugar to taste and then add priming sugar on top of this using the above calculator as a reference. When there is enough Co2 generated, pasturize the bottles to prevent bottle bombs

 

[Rosa321]

hehehhe At first I read "add pot" and I'm thinking WHAT???? Is he making a joke? lol
But then I read the rest of the statement. tehe

I think I'ma go with option C...... Thanks for the calculator!!!

Rosa

 

[LittleBearGameFarm]

But if you prime the cider with a known and specific amount of sugar after you have fermented all the initial sugar (taking the SG from 1.050 to 098 or lower) then not sure I see the need to pasteurize the cider. If you prime with 20 grams of sugar per gallon that is all the sugar that is available for the yeast and that will produce about 2.5 volumes of CO2. Not enough for a bottle bomb if you bottle in beer bottles or in bottles designd to hold sparkling wine. Obviously if you prime with more sugar and you want to create both a sweet and sparkling cider then pasteurization may be the way to go. But I guess I don't see the need to pasteurize otherwise.

I am looking to bottle some hard cider tonight and have a questions on bottle carbing. I was going to add a couple frozen concentrates of apple juice prior to bottling to enhance the apple flavor. The concentrates say 27grams of sugar per serving and 6 servings per container. If you look for 20 grams of sugar per gallon and I have 5 gallons, I would need 100 grams of sugar to carb. One concentrate would have 162 grams. Does the grams of sugar listed on the nutritional guide equate to a measurable gram of sugar. I have a hard time believing there is that much sugar in one concentrate. Any advice?

Thanks!

 

[LoveTheWine]

One can of concentrate is about enough to carb a cider perfectly. I know 'cause I've done it!
Two cans and you will have to pasteurize and will have an off dry cider or risk bottle bombs.
By comparison 125-130 grams of CORN sugar will give you approximately 2.5 volumes of Co2 which, in my opinion would be nicely carbed.