Apple varieties for apple wine

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Guldorn

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I want to find out if apple wine can be with the same depth of character as grape wine. To start, I want to experiment with different varieties of apples. I live in Eastern WA, so there's a ton of locally grown varieties to pick from. I've also read that unlike grapes, apples are often a little one-dimensional in taste and favorable results come from blends of sweet, sour, and astringent apples. I wonder if this is a result of apples typically being grown for yield over quality, but that'll be explored later.

Can anyone offer advice on where to start? I'm just looking for varieties that have worked for others, or tasting notes from different varieties.
 
I want to find out if apple wine can be with the same depth of character as grape wine. To start, I want to experiment with different varieties of apples. I live in Eastern WA, so there's a ton of locally grown varieties to pick from. I've also read that unlike grapes, apples are often a little one-dimensional in taste and favorable results come from blends of sweet, sour, and astringent apples. I wonder if this is a result of apples typically being grown for yield over quality, but that'll be explored later.

Can anyone offer advice on where to start? I'm just looking for varieties that have worked for others, or tasting notes from different varieties.
Years ago,, I made apple wine from several varieties of apples in my orchard, I also made wine from storebought apple juice. I was never satisfied with any of it, very tasteless even though the juice was quite flavorful.
 
Can anyone offer advice on where to start? I'm just looking for varieties that have worked for others, or tasting notes from different varieties.
* do you taste apples? Really taste apples as in walk the grand kids and pull an apple when you walk by a crab apple tree used for decorative planting. (and then note in the back of your mind what it was like). Do you gnaw a bit at the skin and note skin taste vs bulk flesh. , , , , My guess is that 25% of the crabs in your area are nice for tannin (25% of the UW arborateum crabs are nice)
* soft tannin has astringent notes, this is similar to the skin tannins in many wine grapes. Soft tannin as with 5 to 10% Prairie Fire crab in a table apple juice produces a nice flavor level. Tannin is an antioxidant so to make a vintage apple you want a percentage. I will add this to multiple wines as rhubarb, Briana white grape, peach, gooseberry, mead, etc. Soft tannin will balance flavor wise against sweet. Ex my first foray into crabs I added 25% which was nice in the must but overpowering on a dry ferment. This got back sweetened to 1.018 to make it drinkable. (The city plants Prairie Fire under power lines along the street, so I have a row of 11 trees to harvest.). (I also have favorite trees at church, neighbors yards etc) (other trees have names like the one Dale found a block from his house or that tree by the stop lights on Sprecher rd). If I was starting I would buy some chestnut tannin since the astringent notes are clean.
* hard tannin has bitter flavor notes. Some folks like it. Bitter is a dominant flavor in hops/ beer products. Hard tannins are related to seed tannins in grapes, so as a wine maker most folks avoid them. But some folks like them, Kingston Black is described as the ideal balanced juice/ but for me the bitter notes are there. My favorite tannin source changes as the season progresses. August it will be dominant bitter/ the seeds are white. Late august all September it has lost the bitter notes, has nice astringent/ the seeds are brown. November after frost the fruit has lost astringent/ fruity notes are left.
* sugar. Many apple juices are 1.050 to 1.060. I make a lot of cysers. Crabs tend to be dry/ low juice and I have seen plants up to 1.100.
*color. Red flesh is readily available. Polyphenols are antioxidants as with grapes so I like red flesh.
* aromatics. Table apples tend to be selected for flavor. Flavor is readily available so a blend might be 90% table apple. Low temp fermentation like a white grape preserves aromatics. I will back sweeten with Old Orchard frozen concentrate to increase aromatics.
* sugar / ABV. 6% ie a cider is easy. By definition wines are above 8% and I put mine at 1.090 like a grape juice. Noted before I like honey.
* there are lots of cider apple selections, some are dominant hard tannin some are soft tannin. Kingston has both. Washington has orchards that specialize in hard cider or table apple.
* grafting is easy. It is easy to have one tree with branches that are good tannin or red flesh or aromatics. Pollination might be an issue if you are in a desert without neighbor trees/ including crabs
* perry is harder to make. It oxidizes easily.
* pH. I like under 3.4. I had wild lactic acid bacteria above 3.5. Lysozyme prevents LAB infection.
What specific questions?
 
I want to find out if apple wine can be with the same depth of character as grape wine. To start, I want to experiment with different varieties of apples. I live in Eastern WA, so there's a ton of locally grown varieties to pick from. I've also read that unlike grapes, apples are often a little one-dimensional in taste and favorable results come from blends of sweet, sour, and astringent apples. I wonder if this is a result of apples typically being grown for yield over quality, but that'll be explored later.

Can anyone offer advice on where to start? I'm just looking for varieties that have worked for others, or tasting notes from different varieties.
Macintosh, Cox and Russets. Anything that is fragrant, high in tannin or high in acid. Not Fuji, Gala, Honeycrisp, Red Delicious.
 
Don't use any Red or Golden Delicious apples.
50 or 60 years ago, Red and Golden Delicious apples were, well, delicious. That is how they got their name. But now they have been cultivated for maximum shelf life rather than flavor, so they are insipid and flavorless. I don't eat them, much less make cider out of them.
 
if apple wine can be with the same depth of character as grape wine. I'm just looking for varieties that have worked for others, or tasting notes from different varieties.
yes apple can give similar, no I would say better flavor and balance than grape. Step back with Cox or Mac or Red Delicious and ask what is missing? versus a Napa valley red grape. To me the answer revolves around tannin which is necessary for shelf life, ie vintage apple beverages. I would rather have Frequin Rouge, or Dabinette (traditional ciders) ,,, but will gladly mix a Brown Snout Collaos (Spanish var) with 90% Mac juice to build a balanced beverage. Key we BUILD it. There are thousands of named varieties which are no better than my favorite tree, or my Prairie Fire.

Have you read The New Cider Makers Handbook; Joliecour? It is the best I have read on building an apple beverage.
 
I should have said earlier in the thread, but I'm inspired by champagne/sparkling whites. I don't mean Cook's, but the really good stuff- Perignon, Clicot, Schramsburg, etc. i don't want to copy their flavor, but I want to make something contemporary, something of the same quality.

* do you taste apples? Really taste apples as in walk the grand kids and pull an apple when you walk by a crab apple tree used for decorative planting. (and then note in the back of your mind what it was like). Do you gnaw a bit at the skin and note skin taste vs bulk flesh. , , , , My guess is that 25% of the crabs in your area are nice for tannin (25% of the UW arborateum crabs are nice)
* soft tannin has astringent notes, this is similar to the skin tannins in many wine grapes. Soft tannin as with 5 to 10% Prairie Fire crab in a table apple juice produces a nice flavor level. Tannin is an antioxidant so to make a vintage apple you want a percentage. I will add this to multiple wines as rhubarb, Briana white grape, peach, gooseberry, mead, etc. Soft tannin will balance flavor wise against sweet. Ex my first foray into crabs I added 25% which was nice in the must but overpowering on a dry ferment. This got back sweetened to 1.018 to make it drinkable. (The city plants Prairie Fire under power lines along the street, so I have a row of 11 trees to harvest.). (I also have favorite trees at church, neighbors yards etc) (other trees have names like the one Dale found a block from his house or that tree by the stop lights on Sprecher rd). If I was starting I would buy some chestnut tannin since the astringent notes are clean.
* hard tannin has bitter flavor notes. Some folks like it. Bitter is a dominant flavor in hops/ beer products. Hard tannins are related to seed tannins in grapes, so as a wine maker most folks avoid them. But some folks like them, Kingston Black is described as the ideal balanced juice/ but for me the bitter notes are there. My favorite tannin source changes as the season progresses. August it will be dominant bitter/ the seeds are white. Late august all September it has lost the bitter notes, has nice astringent/ the seeds are brown. November after frost the fruit has lost astringent/ fruity notes are left.
* sugar. Many apple juices are 1.050 to 1.060. I make a lot of cysers. Crabs tend to be dry/ low juice and I have seen plants up to 1.100.
*color. Red flesh is readily available. Polyphenols are antioxidants as with grapes so I like red flesh.
* aromatics. Table apples tend to be selected for flavor. Flavor is readily available so a blend might be 90% table apple. Low temp fermentation like a white grape preserves aromatics. I will back sweeten with Old Orchard frozen concentrate to increase aromatics.
* sugar / ABV. 6% ie a cider is easy. By definition wines are above 8% and I put mine at 1.090 like a grape juice. Noted before I like honey.
* there are lots of cider apple selections, some are dominant hard tannin some are soft tannin. Kingston has both. Washington has orchards that specialize in hard cider or table apple.
* grafting is easy. It is easy to have one tree with branches that are good tannin or red flesh or aromatics. Pollination might be an issue if you are in a desert without neighbor trees/ including crabs
* perry is harder to make. It oxidizes easily.
* pH. I like under 3.4. I had wild lactic acid bacteria above 3.5. Lysozyme prevents LAB infection.
What specific questions?
That was an excellent and very complete answer, thank you. It answered a lot of questions pretty completely. Here's some thoughts that popped up:



So it sounds like finding apples with the right tannins is very important, and I need to keep an eye out for Prairie Fires. I might be in luck, my folks may have one in their back yard. It was interesting hearing about soft v. Hard tannins, and I think I'm going to be more interested in the former, as I'm going for something white, somewhat delicate, and complex (aiming in the champagne/sparkling white direction). I especially liked your naming conventions, it reminded me of the directions I'd get when I lived in the south- "that house about 3-400 feet past the holler tree, y'know the one where JD crashed his truck". Got a chuckle out of that one. But this is also encouraging since I can't see any reason why terroir would only apply to grapes, and that popped into my head while looking at establishing an orchard down the road if the opportunity presents itself. Can you recommend any apple varieties for aromatics, or any you like? Regarding ABV, this will be my first foray into fermentation where high ABV is low on the list. I'm more concerned with the best end product, and knowing that alcohol contributes to the overall experience in the mouth, I think it'll end up having lower alcohol than the standard ~14% that a lot of grape wines have, but we'll see. I also hadn't thought about different levels of tannins/sugars throughout the season and how they'd affect flavor, but that actually gives me a cool thought- since different plants ripen at different times, it could be neat to find varieties that express the desired qualities at the same time. I doubt I'll ever find that but it's an idea at least. That was an excellent response and I really appreciate you taking the time to write all of that out. Not only did it teach me a lot upfront, but it gave me a lot of big picture ideas to think about as well.

For specific questions, are there any recipes you like? Ratios and varieties (other than the ones mentioned here) to start with? On the topic of tannins, do you taste much of a difference between the tannins in red skinned apples and naturally tannic yellow apples? I'm thinking about which apples to pick strategically, and don't want to overpower a batch going overboard with too many types of tannins (if that's a thing). I'm sure Joliecour's book will help heaps too. I'm also keeping in mind that, at some point, it's better to simply do and make mistakes to learn rather than sit back and try to overanalyze and intellectualize one's way to the perfect result.
Macintosh, Cox and Russets. Anything that is fragrant, high in tannin or high in acid. Not Fuji, Gala, Honeycrisp, Red Delicious.
Noted, thank you. I keep hearing MacIntosh so those will be on my list. Do you have any experience sourcing? I'm going to go talk to the head of produce at my local health, food store, as sometimes they will have up to 10 varieties of apples, any other input is appreciated.
yes apple can give similar, no I would say better flavor and balance than grape. Step back with Cox or Mac or Red Delicious and ask what is missing? versus a Napa valley red grape. To me the answer revolves around tannin which is necessary for shelf life, ie vintage apple beverages. I would rather have Frequin Rouge, or Dabinette (traditional ciders) ,,, but will gladly mix a Brown Snout Collaos (Spanish var) with 90% Mac juice to build a balanced beverage. Key we BUILD it. There are thousands of named varieties which are no better than my favorite tree, or my Prairie Fire.

Have you read The New Cider Makers Handbook; Joliecour? It is the best I have read on building an apple beverage.
Yet another excellent response. The concept of "building" a drink is one I really like; it demystifies the process. Also hearing the specific numbers (like a 9:1 ratio) helps a lot- I was preparing to have gallons of likely undrinkable cider working away for the first few months just to find a good ratio. I haven't read that book but I just bought a copy on your recommendation and it'll be here in a few days. I think I've got both a starting point and a vector to follow now!
They lack tannin. Green apples like Gravenstein or Granny Smith have tannin and there others that escape my memory that make decent wine.
Ah, that makes sense. So it sounds like they're really just not worth it as there's heaps of other varieties that give everything they do and then some.
 
I just heard back from a researcher/professor at one of my state's universities. I'd reached out with questions about mesoclimates and apple cultivation for cider, and if apple trees can be specifically cultivated like grapes. Here's the response I got:

"Yes this is an interesting concept you can apply to apples as well.

Climate and soil are among several factors affecting fruit quality.

In this regard, I will send you a review paper we wrote some years ago where we summarized all factors affecting apple quality, you might be interested.

Another aspect we evaluate as researchers is also the suitability of different varieties to WA conditions (for apples and pears).

I am also part of a working group that studies crop performances in different states of the USA and we compare the data after 5-10 years, I will also send you our multi-state trial on Honeycrisp published few years ago.

Also, the rootstock (the different roots you can choose for your variety (aka scion)) has a profound impact on the whole tree performance, adaptability and resilience to specific environments"


I haven't read the papers yet but I can share the jist if anyone's interested.
 
Aromatics - Ambrosia, Macintosh, Russets, Cox. Alcohol 11 to 12%. Chaptalize with cane sugar and/or unpasteurized honey. We like fireweed, cranberry blossom, raspberry blossom and blueberry blossom honey. Orange blossom should be good too. Even clover honey is ok. If you can only get wildflower honey use that. Apple wines can lack acid unless you have really high tannin as in a Russet. Honey boosts the acid. Russets + Macintosh plus unpasteurized honey should give you something really good that you can't buy. Macintosh is almost as good as Russets with respect to tannin, acid and smell. I have russets grafted onto a transparent apple tree and one Cox "orange or pippen" on its own plus a King apple which is very aromatic but low in tannin and acid. If you mix first or second run white grape wine with apple + honey you can make something really good, especially if the white grapes are slightly high in acid like Northern Minnesota or New York hybrids. If you can find Cox apples buy those also. If you use sky high acid white wine grapes at a decent brix level then ferment them with 71B yeast. You can ferment the apples with D47 to give you the mouth feel and smell that you want. 71B yeast on your grapes will give you a good smell and drop the acid. Honey + apples + grapes = Cyser Pyment = White Fusion. Has anyone here ever used D47 and 71B together in a ferment? I've used RC212/71B as a combo which works well on reds.
 
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Aromatics - Ambrosia, Macintosh, Russets, Cox. Alcohol 11 to 12%. Chaptalize with cane sugar and/or unpasteurized honey. We like fireweed, cranberry blossom, raspberry blossom and blueberry blossom. Orange blossom should be good. Even clover honey is ok. Apple wines can lack acid unless you have really high tannin as in a Russet. Honey boosts the acid. Russets + Macintosh plus unpasteurized honey should give you something really good that you can't buy. If you mix first or second run white grape wine with apple + honey you can make something really good, especially if the white grapes are slightly high in acid. If you can find Cox apples buy those also.
 
I want to find out if apple wine can be with the same depth of character as grape wine. To start, I want to experiment with different varieties of apples. I live in Eastern WA, so there's a ton of locally grown varieties to pick from. I've also read that unlike grapes, apples are often a little one-dimensional in taste and favorable results come from blends of sweet, sour, and astringent apples. I wonder if this is a result of apples typically being grown for yield over quality, but that'll be explored later.

Can anyone offer advice on where to start? I'm just looking for varieties that have worked for others, or tasting notes from different varieties.
I made a Mayhaw / Red Fuji Apple blend 2 years ago. I thought the Mayhaw flavor would come thru with the apples but my wine came out tasting like Fuji apples only. Mayhaws are like wild Crab apples here in the Swamps. I have 4 cultivated varieties known for their quality juice & flavor. Famous for the jelly Mayhaw's flavor is unique, looks like a mini Crab apple. Now the wine tastes just fine, it took a little while for the edge to smooth a bit. The Mayhaw color didn't come thru either, my wine looks just like the apple juice you buy in the store.
 
* Dan Bussey has published a book on apple varieties in North America.
* Washington state has done trials and have on line info.
* Hocking Hills in Ohio is a big heirloom apple collection, looking at historical apples I find it overwhelming, and quickly come to the observation that I have flavors which are similar in this county. It is just a matter of looking for them.
* Most of the grafting supplies and scions I have came from Maple valley in Wisconsin, I read descriptions in big collections and say “duh-hh “. It starts feeling repetitive. Tasting will tell more of what flavors you like.
* I make a pie when playing with flavors. It is faster than starting a carboy.
* Acidic apples are easy to find. There are wild apple crabs around here in Wisconsin. I lower the pH by adding acid out of the bottle. It is easy to control. Raising pH is harder. We can do MLF or blend or some yeast like 71B.
* Low acid apples are easy to find. (There are wild apple crabs around.). If my apple is over pH 3.5 I would always add Bactiless to lower the risk of lactic acid bacteria infection.
* If you concentrate on table apples (high aromatics) expect a pH near 3.5.
* Apples have a dominant percentage of malic acid. This is a sharp flavor acid / refreshing flavor, and traditional folks would run MLF to remove sharp notes. It is probably easier to modify white grape total acidity since you have tartaric acid which crystallizes when cold.
* you can increase sugar by freezing the juice and slowly thawing. In essence an ice wine.

* a full size tree is a seven year project.
* a 12’ dwarf (bud9) is a two to three year project
* a semi-dwarf 15’ is a five year project.
* If you have a location plant some rootstock to start the five year time line. Commercial orchards will rework a tree and graft a new top on since it is faster than starting with root stock. I have mature trees with grafting at the 7 to 8 foot level so that I can get fruiting wood in two years
* The PRI apple varieties (Princeton, Rutgers, Illinois) were developed to be diseases resistant, better for organic orchids. Expect railroad worm on organic apples, but for juice this doesn’t matter. Do you know fire blight? Do you know cedar apple rust? Any eastern white cedar within 1/4 mile?
* Some apples are hard to process. They mush kinda like trying to press peanut butter. Freezing is more efficient than grinding on all apples I have pressed, How big do you want to get? Grinding is a cheaper process.

* My point of view is bulk cider is easy to get. Apple tannin is hard to get so I want to grow it. Red color is hard to get so I want to grow it. Aromatics are in table varieties, we eat with our nose before our mouth. Concentrate is a pretty good source for aromatics. How natural? This year I tried 5% aronia as a source of color and tannin in one carboy. Last year I got red Devil and IdaRed variety. I like the taste

* In 2022 I made 50 or 60 gallons of cider. I have been giving some cider away since 2022. How man gallons are you going to run?
* Northern white grape tends to be high TA, but works pretty well for sparkling if one cools to pull out bitartrate. Washington state does lots of white grape. How big a project
 
The best apple variety(s) for fermentation is one you can source locally and are squeaky clean about oxygen exposure (total package oxygen)
The worst apple variety for fermentation is one you can source locally and are sloppy about oxygen exposure/ create off notes that mask fruity aromatics.

Best of show at Wisconsin state fair in 2022 was a sparkling dandelion by @weaverschmitz ,,, the flavor of dandelion is frequently described as “delicate” (ie thin).,,, Conclusion, if you @Guldorn can do a good apple you are an artist/ understand the craft.
 

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