Bentonite addition

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homer

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Picked up some Chilean white and red juice today, does everyone add Bentonite at the beginning ? If so how much ? bk
 
I did my first juice buckets this year and did not add bentonite. I don't use it on my other wines either except kits that recommend it. I usually bulk age my wines until clear and use superkleer in those that are stubborn.
 
If you bulk age for 9 months or more, you generally do not need to add clarifying agents, such as bentonite.
 
I tend to sprinkle some bentonite into most of my wines, usually about 1/4 to 1/3 of a teaspoon per gallon, at the same time as I add the yeast, although, as others have said it isn't strictly essential.
 
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I always add bentonite but wait a day after starting fermentation to keep it in suspension. Works much better that way! Cheers
 
Depends on the white. Bentonite was actually first used specifically for whites. We use it on whites and it makes the wine crystal clear. A lite dose is 1/2 tsp to 1/2 cup of hot water for 5 gallons. A mid level dose is 1 1/2 tsp to 3/4 cup of hot water. Mix in a blender to eliminate lumps. Never add it to wine in the dry state. And don't add until the 2nd day or so if you're using any enzymes of any kind, as it will deactivate the enzyme. Wait to add it until the enzymes have done their job.

Don't use large amounts because it can strip flavor if you do. But used in above doses, it can go a long way to removing protein haze that can happen in whites when they're chilled.

Red grape wine never needs bentonite, as they clear debris well all by themselves as long as you bulk age long enough.
 
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Time is your best clarifier. But I have used bentonite (cooked into a slurry w/water, let sit overnight, whip it into a wine sample and add, then stir.) for some stubborn fruit wines. If the bentonite doesn't clear it, I've added SuperKleer on top of it. But I've found that all clarifiers strip some flavor. Time is your friend. (unless you are 97 and still making wine)
 
Time will often not clarify whites. I have lots of experience with that problem. Two things that affect how well the bentonite will work--one is PH and the other is tannin. The lower the PH, the stronger the positive charge is on the proteins. So when the negatively charged bentonite contacts it, it can agglutinate better and fall out as debris you can then rack off. When making wines from fruit or grapes that are low in tannin, be sure to add a nominal amount of tannin to the ferment. About 1/4 tsp per gallon.
 

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