Finer Wine Kit Carbon addition

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Do you ever let your white wines bulk for 12 months? I noticed in your descriptions you mentioned bottling the wine in 6 months
Whites? No. Far too many of them lack the longevity of reds, and I've had whites turn too quickly, so I drink them younger. A few examples, all of which are different:
  • circa 1987-1991 Finger Lakes (NY) French-American hybrid whites all started to decline after 18 months.
  • 2018 Verdicchio kit, absolutely fantastic at 6 to 12 months with bright, vibrant aroma and flavors, but changed after 12 months, becoming a generic white, even if it wasn't in real decline.
  • 2020 Sauvignon Blanc made from CA juice was without a doubt the best white I have ever made ... it started declining after 12 months.
  • 2020 WE Australian Chardonnay made for my son's wedding reception, was great at 14 months but declining at 18 months.
  • 2021 FWK Chardonnay was starting to decline at just over 2 years.
The 2022 SB is holding fine, but I have 2 bottles left, and they'll get used up within a month or two.

In contrast to this, in 2013 I made an Island Mist Green Apple / Riesling, that I chaptalized to 11% ABV, where the last few bottles were good at 7 years. I also have NY commercial Rieslings that are great at 5 yo, and Chardonnay great at 3 yo.

We recently bottled the 2023 Vidal (made from juice) and I plan to use that wine up within the next year. We also have a carboy of Vidal fermented on the skins that will be bottled in about 3 months. I'm going to hold bottles of that for 2 years, to see how it ages.

I am not an expert in this area; just reporting my experiences. Also note I'm not a serious white drinker. I like many whites, but 80% of the time I reach for a red. For full disclosure I drink coffee on 90 degree (F) mornings and Guinness Stout on 100 degree afternoons, so trusting my judgment may not work out. ;)
 
Whites? No. Far too many of them lack the longevity of reds, and I've had whites turn too quickly, so I drink them younger. A few examples, all of which are different:
  • circa 1987-1991 Finger Lakes (NY) French-American hybrid whites all started to decline after 18 months.
  • 2018 Verdicchio kit, absolutely fantastic at 6 to 12 months with bright, vibrant aroma and flavors, but changed after 12 months, becoming a generic white, even if it wasn't in real decline.
  • 2020 Sauvignon Blanc made from CA juice was without a doubt the best white I have ever made ... it started declining after 12 months.
  • 2020 WE Australian Chardonnay made for my son's wedding reception, was great at 14 months but declining at 18 months.
  • 2021 FWK Chardonnay was starting to decline at just over 2 years.
The 2022 SB is holding fine, but I have 2 bottles left, and they'll get used up within a month or two.

In contrast to this, in 2013 I made an Island Mist Green Apple / Riesling, that I chaptalized to 11% ABV, where the last few bottles were good at 7 years. I also have NY commercial Rieslings that are great at 5 yo, and Chardonnay great at 3 yo.

We recently bottled the 2023 Vidal (made from juice) and I plan to use that wine up within the next year. We also have a carboy of Vidal fermented on the skins that will be bottled in about 3 months. I'm going to hold bottles of that for 2 years, to see how it ages.

I am not an expert in this area; just reporting my experiences. Also note I'm not a serious white drinker. I like many whites, but 80% of the time I reach for a red. For full disclosure I drink coffee on 90 degree (F) mornings and Guinness Stout on 100 degree afternoons, so trusting my judgment may not work out. ;)
After looking at my notes, most of my whites have been bottled before the one year mark. Mostly because my inventory was low. Now that I have more wine, I have more patience. Having said that I will bottle my Viognier tomorrow that I made last May. Probably won’t wait a year in the future. It was something I was contemplating for a while now. You’re comments pushed me to bottle sooner.
 
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After looking at my notes, most of my whites have been bottled before the one year mark. Mostly because my inventory was low. Now that I have more wine, I have more patience. Having said that I will bottle my Viognier tomorrow that I made last May.
At every racking and when you add K-meta during bulk aging, taste the wines and record your notes. That is the most powerful tool you have in judging your own wines.

Patience is essential to making good wine, but make sure you're not being too patient. This is not as common in winemaking circles, as impatience is far more common. Record you impressions and watch for signs of decline.
 
I posted a review of my 2022 FWK SB in the What's In Your Glass thread, and something occurred to me as I was considering the 2023 Vidal fermented on the skins that is in production.

FWK produces some great red wine kits. What if the concentrate vendor is using a process similar to the red process for the whites? This could account for the darker color, as my Vidal is clearly orange, much darker than the batch made from juice only.

@Matt_Pruszynski, is this anything you can comment on? I realize you may not have any insight into the concentrate process.
 
Well, it has happened to me; FWK failure to clear. I have made numerous FWK whites and a rosé. They all cleared brilliantly with days of adding K&C. This time, 30 days after racking from primary and adding K&C there is still a lot of carbon suspended in the wine. I know time will probably clear this up, but I want to speed things up. Earlier posts recommend the addition of a bentonite slurry. The question for me, is do I want to add a Sodium bentonite or a calcium bentonite?
 

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it has happened to me
Yup, same experience :0 Would this happen to be a Chardonnay? Was bentonite added at the start as stated in the directions? I have to assume Bentonite packages purchased, example LD Carlson, is a blend of both Sodium and Calcium bentonite. IMO, I would not try to guess which one needs to be used. I would go for the "typical" bentonite.

Again, IMO, the carbon is to help color. The bentonite is for any proteins and counter fining. Going forward with another FWK with carbon, I will use the carbon up front as directed, but not with bentonite. I'll save the bentonite and add it >maybe< mid way through the fermentation or post fermentation >if needed<. So the short story, I disagree with the directions. Again IMO, the use of the two products added together is counter intuitive, specifically because the bentonite is not hydrated effectively. Of course, YMMV. :)
 
Was bentonite added at the start as stated in the directions?
Last I knew (which is several years ago) FWK doesn't include bentonite in the kits. IME they're the only kit vendor that doesn't.

EDIT: I stand corrected, FWK is now including bentonite in Tavola White kits.


Well, it has happened to me; FWK failure to clear. I have made numerous FWK whites and a rosé. They all cleared brilliantly with days of adding K&C. This time, 30 days after racking from primary and adding K&C there is still a lot of carbon suspended in the wine. I know time will probably clear this up, but I want to speed things up. Earlier posts recommend the addition of a bentonite slurry. The question for me, is do I want to add a Sodium bentonite or a calcium bentonite?
Have you degassed the wine? I'd stir for 1 minute, changing direction half way through. Then let it rest a week to see if that does anything. It may not, but it's the path of least effort.

The last time I purchased bentonite, the label said "Bentonite", so I have no clue what type it is.
 
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Last I knew (which is several years ago) FWK doesn't include bentonite in the kits. IME they're the only kit vendor that doesn't.
I made a Sauve Blanc about two years ago and a Chardonnay about a year ago. Both included bentonite and charcoal dust. Attached is a screen shot of part of the current instructions for the Tavola Chard.

Unless the FWK's have changed, some if not all of the Tavola whites come with bentonite.
 

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Thanks for the responses. Yes, I used the Bentonite up front. Yes, the wine was thoroughly degassed during 2 rackings (one from primary to secondary at about two weeks when fermentation was complete; I added finings at this point. I racked a second time to get the wine off the fine lees. UPDATE, I ordered Bentonite (LD CARLSON which is a sodium rich bentonite) I e-mailed Matt at Label Peelers. He called me and said that sometimes the K/C doesn't strip out the carbon. He recommended against using bentonite in this case and suggested racking again with K/C. He also suggested that we cancel myy order of Bentonite since he figures it wouldn't help much. As I said in my post, I've made several FWK whites and a rosé; none of them had this problem. This was the first FWK white for me that Bentonite was added prior to fermentation.
 
Thanks for the responses. Yes, I used the Bentonite up front. Yes, the wine was thoroughly degassed during 2 rackings (one from primary to secondary at about two weeks when fermentation was complete; I added finings at this point. I racked a second time to get the wine off the fine lees. UPDATE, I ordered Bentonite (LD CARLSON which is a sodium rich bentonite) I e-mailed Matt at Label Peelers. He called me and said that sometimes the K/C doesn't strip out the carbon. He recommended against using bentonite in this case and suggested racking again with K/C. He also suggested that we cancel myy order of Bentonite since he figures it wouldn't help much. As I said in my post, I've made several FWK whites and a rosé; none of them had this problem. This was the first FWK white for me that Bentonite was added prior to fermentation.
Exactly what I did...a second dose of K&C. My wine cleared after the second dose. At the suggestion of @winemaker81, I became aware of the tastes involved with K&C. I have no doubt that a "normal" application pack overdoses the wine in the first place. I can now detect a slight bitter taste in the FWK Chard I made (two doses of K&C). I'm not doing that again!

I suggest considering adding a fairly low dose of bentonite first, waiting to see if it clears. If not, the second dose of K&C can be added at a later time.

The best recommendation I have learned about bentonite is to dose the wine at a rate of .25g/L to .5g/L. For a 23 Liter batch, that comes out to mixing ~5 grams to 11 grams of bentonite in water. I sprinkle the bentonite slowly in about 100 mL to 150 mL of cool DISTILLED water in a canning jar and shake very well. I'll shake the jar off and on for about 24 hours to effectively hydrate the bentonite, then add in to the wine. The recommendation comes from Techniques in Home Winemaking by Daniel Pambianchi, page 261. I put the cool water spin on the method with excellent success.

The reasons why I'm suggesting bentonite first, is because it places an electrostatic charge on the particles, clumps them together, then gravity does the rest. Any proteins are absorbed in the cellular structure of the bentonite.

On the other hand, K&C first places a positive charge on the particles. After 1 to 5 hours, when the second part is added, a negative charge is placed on other particles, clumps are formed and gravity takes over. K&C was already applied, and it didn't work.

(The low dosage of bentonite will not affect the taste as much as the second dose of K&C, so the lesser of two evils.)

So, bentonite was added pre-ferment, and you might ask why did it not work? Well, IMHO, the reason why is because of the lack of "proper" hydration and the way FWK's directions are written.

Reading Scott Labs' white paper, the first sentence in the paragraph under the heading of WATER PH, about 1/2 way down is plain as day: "If bentonite is prepared in an acidic solution or wine, it coagulates immediately and loses up to 50% of its efficacy." Here is the reference link: https://scottlab.com/bentonite-clarification-heat-protein-stabilization . Last time I checked grape juice is pretty acidic, packed full of minerals, not to mention sugar.

I have no doubt the second dose of K&C will clear the wine as Matt suggests, but at what cost?

The above are specific reasons, documentation, and not a "just because I do it this way" :) . Of course, it's your wine and your decision. Let us know how it turns out.

Best of luck,

Barry
 
The kits include two or three times the recommended dosage printed on the bottles of K&C. If the bottle says one ounce I use 1/2 ounce. Seems to do the job.
 
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