DangerDave's Dragon Blood Wine

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Funny (math-disabled, apparently) moment for me making DB - I reduced the recipe to a 1 gal. In doing so, I miscalculated the amount of fruit, and was using 3x the fruit in a batch. I thought wow, this is a wonderful, rich berry wine! Four batches later I realized my error. So, I will try next time with the Correct amount of fruit. A pleasant surprise awaits me at my next batch - an actual DB wine. 🙃
 
Funny (math-disabled, apparently) moment for me making DB - I reduced the recipe to a 1 gal. In doing so, I miscalculated the amount of fruit, and was using 3x the fruit in a batch. I thought wow, this is a wonderful, rich berry wine! Four batches later I realized my error. So, I will try next time with the Correct amount of fruit. A pleasant surprise awaits me at my next batch - an actual DB wine. 🙃
You will probably find the original recipe to be very light on fruit, especially if you have been tripling it! 😁
 
Started in on my first DDDB. I used Lalvin 71B for the yeast.

My question is, and sorry if this has been discussed before, but I haven't found it, the original recipe calls for finishing fermentation in the primary, then racking. I have always racked my country wines before fermentation ends (1.010 or higher).

What do others do? Why not rack sooner?
 
the original recipe calls for finishing fermentation in the primary, then racking. I have always racked my country wines before fermentation ends (1.010 or higher).

What do others do? Why not rack sooner?

You say the recipe calls for finishing fermentation and then rack, but that’s not what you do, racking at SG of 1.010. It’s not wrong, just different. The theory in leaving the pulp/skins in, but making sure the lid is snapped on tight and your airlock is bubbling (probably slowly, but enough to know that indeed your lid is sealed, is that more of the tannins from the fruit is extracted. If the lid is sealed then the CO2 that is still being produced will protect the wine from bacteria. That is why many people snap the lid on at SG of 1.020-ish. Then wait another 2 weeks. Not much more will get extracted and the CO2 protection will eventually dissipate.
 
You say the recipe calls for finishing fermentation and then rack, but that’s not what you do, racking at SG of 1.010. It’s not wrong, just different. The theory in leaving the pulp/skins in, but making sure the lid is snapped on tight and your airlock is bubbling (probably slowly, but enough to know that indeed your lid is sealed, is that more of the tannins from the fruit is extracted. If the lid is sealed then the CO2 that is still being produced will protect the wine from bacteria. That is why many people snap the lid on at SG of 1.020-ish. Then wait another 2 weeks. Not much more will get extracted and the CO2 protection will eventually dissipate.
Well, I keep thinking I am missing something, not that any way is wrong!

The instructions say to remove and discard the fruit pack at 1.000, and then continue to follow the SG for a few days until the SG is stable below 1.000.

There's nothing about snapping the lid, ever.

The instructions say:
  • Cover primary: Do not snap down the lid or add an airlock. Cover the lid with a cloth or towel.
then,
When the SG drops to <1.000, do the following:
  • Squeeze juices from fruit pack into fermenter---remove fruit pack: Discard fruit. Note: When the specific gravity (SG) has fallen below 1.000, and the fruit bag has been removed, discontinue stirring daily but check the SG and temp daily as before. Proceed from here only when the wine’s SG has stabilized below 1.000. A stable SG means that the SG for three consecutive days reveals no change in the SG.
  • Uncover primary


So I am still a little confused. I also don't know why we're checking the temperature after discarding the fruit.

Not at all saying this is wrong, believe me! I'm far too new at this. It's just something different! ☺️
 
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I’ve never heard of NEEDING to check the temperature. Some red wines are fermented fast, so higher temps, and temperature measurement may be required to avoid over heating the yeast. I don’t think your in this situation.

Is this a kit you’re making? I would generally follow the instructions until you get enough experience to know when to do things. My previous comments were for a general wine making exercise.

Where your instructions say to uncover the primary, I would suggest it really should have said “rack to a sanitized carboy, top off as necessary, and put an airlock on the carboy. Rack again in 3 months.”

Apparently the kit manufacturer thinks the fruit pack should be discarded early. The fruit may have expended all it could or maybe the manufacturer just thought it would be easier to understand.
 
My question is, and sorry if this has been discussed before, but I haven't found it, the original recipe calls for finishing fermentation in the primary, then racking. I have always racked my country wines before fermentation ends (1.010 or higher).

EIther way is fine!
 
I’ve never heard of NEEDING to check the temperature. Some red wines are fermented fast, so higher temps, and temperature measurement may be required to avoid over heating the yeast. I don’t think your in this situation.

Is this a kit you’re making? I would generally follow the instructions until you get enough experience to know when to do things. My previous comments were for a general wine making exercise.

Where your instructions say to uncover the primary, I would suggest it really should have said “rack to a sanitized carboy, top off as necessary, and put an airlock on the carboy. Rack again in 3 months.”

Apparently the kit manufacturer thinks the fruit pack should be discarded early. The fruit may have expended all it could or maybe the manufacturer just thought it would be easier to understand.
This is the recipe for Danger Dave's Dragon Blood from the very first post of this thread! 😀

I have been trying to follow his original recipe as he first posted it. Well, adjusted for 1 gallon.

It's just that he doesn't seem to airlock it until it is bone dry for several days, or he didn't when he first wrote up the recipe. I guess that's OK, but not what I've seen before.

Thank you everyone for your input!
 
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This is the recipe for Danger Dave's Dragon Blood from the very first post of this thread! 😀

I have been trying to follow his original recipe as he first posted it. Well, adjusted for 1 gallon.

It's just that he doesn't seem to airlock it until it is bone dry for several days, or he didn't when he first wrote up the recipe. I guess that's OK, but not what I've seen before.
Something to consider is that a recipe is a combination of ingredients and method.

Folks that have been making wine for years typically understand how mutable both are, and while the ingredients and method are linked, those links can be altered or even replaced.

This makes it tough for beginners and the less experienced, as there's not just one way of doing things -- with so many permutations, there are hundreds or even thousands. For that very reason, Dave's original recipe is fantastic, a detailed list of exactly what to do .... for that one situation.

Your standard process is fine. Use it if you want.
 
Started in on my first DDDB. I used Lalvin 71B for the yeast.

My question is, and sorry if this has been discussed before, but I haven't found it, the original recipe calls for finishing fermentation in the primary, then racking. I have always racked my country wines before fermentation ends (1.010 or higher).

What do others do? Why not rack sooner?

I see your issue with this recipe, and I spent time studying it for the reason you mentioned. The instructions say to let it go to <1.000, then rack into a carboy. But usually instructions for racking into a carboy, or leaving it in the primary for extended maceration, say to do it at around 1.01 so that the remaining fermentation creates a CO2 environment, pushing out any oxygen. In the times I've made it, I've never let it go to 1.000 before doing something to trap the CO2. At around 1.010, I've either snapped the lid down and let it finish in the primary, or racked it into a carboy and let it finish there. It's easier to do it in the primary, so that's the way I've settled on. It's so cheap and fast to make that you can try it many ways in the time it takes to do a "proper" wine from a kit.
 
I see your issue with this recipe, and I spent time studying it for the reason you mentioned. The instructions say to let it go to <1.000, then rack into a carboy. But usually instructions for racking into a carboy, or leaving it in the primary for extended maceration, say to do it at around 1.01 so that the remaining fermentation creates a CO2 environment, pushing out any oxygen. In the times I've made it, I've never let it go to 1.000 before doing something to trap the CO2. At around 1.010, I've either snapped the lid down and let it finish in the primary, or racked it into a carboy and let it finish there. It's easier to do it in the primary, so that's the way I've settled on. It's so cheap and fast to make that you can try it many ways in the time it takes to do a "proper" wine from a kit.
Thanks! I am willing to try, but I am nervous about letting it go dry for several days as the original recipe for the reasons you say.
I was hoping to find anyone who had done it that way recently so they could tell me it's OK, but it sounds like most people would not.

It's at 1.010 now 3 days after pitching (1.040 yesterday) so I am snapping the lid and airlocking.

Maybe someone will chime in saying that they do it the other way no problem, and I'll try it on the next batch.
 
For DB I always ferment to dry before racking, unless it is more convenient for me to rack it sooner (ex. I will be out of town around when it will finish fermenting).

I also age mine longer, even though it's made to be a quick drinker. I just think it smooths out more with age.

It is delicious!!
 
Hey! I'm wanting to try this recipe, it wounds like it'll be really good! Is it necessary to use both yeast nutrients and energizer? I only have nutrients and I'd need to pick up some energizer if so
 
Hey! I'm wanting to try this recipe, it wounds like it'll be really good! Is it necessary to use both yeast nutrients and energizer? I only have nutrients and I'd need to pick up some energizer if so
DB is designed to be made quickly. I don't believe it will hurt it if you don't have energizer, but it may take a bit longer to finish fermenting.

For my purposes, I don't care if it takes a few days longer, and I also age my DB longer than the recipe calls for. Because it's my wine, and I do what I want! :try
 
DB is designed to be made quickly. I don't believe it will hurt it if you don't have energizer, but it may take a bit longer to finish fermenting.

For my purposes, I don't care if it takes a few days longer, and I also age my DB longer than the recipe calls for. Because it's my wine, and I do what I want! :try
Oh okay that makes sense! I kind of assumed that. And I personally would not mind waiting a little longer on the fermenting side. My first wine took 2 months or so for me to reach bottling so I don't mind waiting a few days or so😅
 
Hello all, just a quick query, I found a few bottles of DB I made a few years ago, they were bottled, and corked but has floating bits in it, do you know what this could be, every batch I've done, after being left for about a year has floaties in the middle
 
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