Mango Madness
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- Joined
- Mar 9, 2022
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Thankyou
Wow thanksI have nowhere near the experience many people on thus site have, but I can tell you that for degassing there are a few popular thoughts/methods. Time will degas naturally. If you don't want to wait weeks or months for that to happen, you can whip the wine with a drill attachment, use a vacuum pump, or splash rack it. Also, many people say that temperature is important and that 75 degrees and higher helps degas.
Adding to @globalnavigator's advice, degassing is NOT eliminating all CO2 from the wine. I use a drill-mounted stirring rod, stirring for 20-30 seconds in one direction, and then changing direction 3 to 5 times. The max duration of the stir is 3 minutes.I have nowhere near the experience many people on thus site have, but I can tell you that for degassing there are a few popular thoughts/methods. Time will degas naturally. If you don't want to wait weeks or months for that to happen, you can whip the wine with a drill attachment, use a vacuum pump, or splash rack it. Also, many people say that temperature is important and that 75 degrees and higher helps degas.
Cool thanks for that. What about stirring the must on the primary brew?Adding to @globalnavigator's advice, degassing is NOT eliminating all CO2 from the wine. I use a drill-mounted stirring rod, stirring for 20-30 seconds in one direction, and then changing direction 3 to 5 times. The max duration of the stir is 3 minutes.
The stirring jump-starts the process -- while a lot CO2 is expelled, the wine will continue to degas over the following days and weeks.
I started degassing all wines a few years ago, as CO2 will hold sediment in suspension. Eliminating excess CO2 early helps with clearing, and I find that I don't rack the wine as much.
Most of us ferment in an open bucket, covered with a towel. I stir 2-3 times per day during ferment.Cool thanks for that. What about stirring the must on the primary brew?
In general, starting gravity is between 1.080 and 1.100. Too low and the wine will be weak -- generally speaking, wines below 10% ABV are not as long lived. Too much, and the wine may not only be too strong, but there may be too much sugar and the yeast will not grow well, e.g., too rich an environment.Yes I have a hydrometer but did not know what reading to look for. Thanks so much.
Just wondering if I have the right Hydrometre?In general, starting gravity is between 1.080 and 1.100. Too low and the wine will be weak -- generally speaking, wines below 10% ABV are not as long lived. Too much, and the wine may not only be too strong, but there may be too much sugar and the yeast will not grow well, e.g., too rich an environment.
At the finish, if the final SG is <= 0.998 and stable for 3 days, the ferment is considered done. Mostly the SG <= 0.996, but I've had fruit wines finish at 1.002 for no reason I know of. This assumes a relatively normal OG and a yeast capable of consuming the available sugar.
It looks like a triple scale hydrometer -- the last photo shows the SG scale. Look at this thread for instructions regarding using a hydrometer:Just wondering if I have the right Hydrometre?
Thanks heapsIt looks like a triple scale hydrometer -- the last photo shows the SG scale. Look at this thread for instructions regarding using a hydrometer:
https://www.winemakingtalk.com/threads/how-to-read-hydrometer.10346/
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