Elmer's Cream Ale (my 3rd boil)

[Elmer]

Started a cream ale today recipe is below:
1# flaked maize
1# Pilsner malt
3.3 Pilsen LME
2# Pilsen DME
1 oz cascade (bittering 60min)
.5oz cascade (flavor-15mim)
.5oz cascade (aroma - 5 min)
Fermentis us-05 dry yeast
I added a 2nd pound of DME to bump up the ABV from fore & a half to five
I opted to mash rather than steep for 15 min as the instruction indicate.
Another friend who brews told me that the way to mash for dummies is get the pot up to 150 throw everything in the bag and come back in an hour.
Course when I was getting ready to throw everything into the green soccer realize the soccer not hold 2 pounds luckily I found my old paint straining bag from my wine making days.
Of course the additional hour for mashing now turns my process and took a three hour process.
Cleaning sanitizing mashing cooking makes for a long afternoon
So far the toughest part is been keeping the pop at a consistent 150F range

 

[jswordy]

Yep, I have run across a few guys who mash in bags like that. The efficiency is low but you can extract more fermentable sugars out of the grain that way. AFAIK, the high end is 158. Don't want to go over 158 or you are in the tannic zone with a mash, they say. Steep I've seen temps range as high as 170, but the contact time is shorter.

Never seen Cascade as a bittering hop before. That will be interesting. Loved it when I used 1 ounce as an aroma hop, though. It was very prominent. Your beer should be really floral and citrusy. You may have to age it a bit longer to get the sharpness worn off.

My next recipe is also my own. The stuff is on the way.

Elmer, the way you're going, you'll be all-grain in a month! Me, I'm just looking for cheap beer.

 

[Elmer]

This is the bucket at work! Charles the work in half the time it took me using an ice bath in my sink
I actually got the pocket last night while at a charity event for my children's school I get a flying bed on a sports package which was the red bucket filled with baseballs footballs and binoculars.
Not bad but I ended up spending $120 to get an eight dollar bucket, but the money goes to a good cause and I will use this bucket for a long time so it's a win-win
I don't think I'll be going to all grain anytime soon as I only have a 5 gallon pot and my wife is not quite ready for me to spend $100 on a 10 gallon pot, for the time being I'm just going to go partial mash and extract

 

[jswordy]

Temptation...

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garde...efccid=6ZBSTP5VKEMYKESHZBJ3TOPDYM&searchidx=1

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garde...efccid=UUVJ5IJQWXD3ESCB32ML72URLE&searchidx=0

They also have brew kettle setups, although I went with the 36-quart at top. Plenty for what I need. Watch for their sales, I got mine for $77, free shipping.

The bucket is the bomb. Works great. People keep telling me wort chiller, but this does it in the same time. It does cost me $5 for ice, but that's a small investment.

The reason I don't want to get too much invested in beer equipment is that I react to it in ways I do not react to wine. So I can't be drinking it all the time. That's why I started making wine in the first place, was because beer makes my joints ache. The high percentage of gluten in it, I suspect.

 

[ibglowin]

I believe that is called aiding and abetting……..

 

[Elmer]

The only problem I had with the bucket was that it cooled the wort so quickly than the trub never really settled to the bottom.
When I dumped it into the primary bucket all the trub came with it.
In retrospect I should have just let it sit for a bit, but I was on a time crunch due to unforeseen circumstances.
I ended up pitching the yeast about 2 hours later.
I have been informed that leaving the trub in will not do any harm as the yeast will drop and cover the trub.
As of this morning it was at 66F, but no visible activity.
For my next batch I am considering using a carboy just so I can see what is going on, buckets are not very see through.

 

[jswordy]

The only problem I had with the bucket was that it cooled the wort so quickly than the trub never really settled to the bottom.
When I dumped it into the primary bucket all the trub came with it.
In retrospect I should have just let it sit for a bit, but I was on a time crunch due to unforeseen circumstances.
I ended up pitching the yeast about 2 hours later.
I have been informed that leaving the trub in will not do any harm as the yeast will drop and cover the trub.
As of this morning it was at 66F, but no visible activity.
For my next batch I am considering using a carboy just so I can see what is going on, buckets are not very see through.

Hmmm... so far for me, always settles the trub. I cool to 70-78 range, closer to 70 the better, before transfer. I always dump carefully so that I stop the pour before the trub comes along from the bottom. I usually leave about a pint to a quart behind.

I am making a full 5 gallons. I've started this last time with just a wee bit more than 5 gallons, then I end up with 4-4.25 gallons if it's a long boil. I topped to 5 with tap water in the fermenter, no worries.

I tried on my previous recipe a suggestion to start with 6 gallons so I boil to 5, but I topped it this time to assess variances in product from the 2 methods.

I am curious about no activity visible, Elmer. It's an ale yeast, right? So far, mine has started visibly (airlock bubbles) within 6 hours and is vigorous in no more than 12.

If there's one thing I have been told by my "in person" beer maker friends, time and time again, it's that the wort is the most vulnerable from the end of boil until the yeast are vigorously active. Fingers crossed for you.

If you do use a carboy, you need at least a 6 gallon carboy for a 5 gallon batch. The krausen will get you otherwise!

 

[jswordy]

Oh Elllllmeeeerrrrrr!

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/page...email+-+Take+$50+OFF+Fully+Loaded+MegaPot+1.2

 

[wineinmd]

People who do no chill let their wort sit for day(s) prior to pitching. As long as you are careful with sanitation, you'll be fine. I waited a day and a half once as I waited for my starter to finish. No problem at all.

 

[Elmer]

I got home and checked the fermenter bucket in the closet, it was 66 and bubbling slightly.
I moved it out of the closet to the living room in front of the heater and warmed it up a couple of degrees and it took off!!!!!
It has been raging since.
I have to say that it is not nearly are aromatic as my previous brews, but it is also less hoppy.
The only down side is as SWMBO and myself try to catch up on some DVR, we have to listen to constant gurgling.
As it slows down I will moved it away from the heat and let it settle

 

[wineinmd]

I got home and checked the fermenter bucket in the closet, it was 66 and bubbling slightly.
I moved it out of the closet to the living room in front of the heater and warmed it up a couple of degrees and it took off!!!!!
It has been raging since.
I have to say that it is not nearly are aromatic as my previous brews, but it is also less hoppy.
The only down side is as SWMBO and myself try to catch up on some DVR, we have to listen to constant gurgling.
As it slows down I will moved it away from the heat and let it settle

Depending on what yeast you used, your closet at 66 is very likely a better place than in the living room, assuming the temperature there is higher. Active fermentation will raise the temperature of the wort by 5-10 degrees, which is often high enough for most yeast to begin producing off flavors. Almost all of my batches go into my swamp cooler, and I try to keep the water temperature around 64, which keeps the wort close to the same temperature. The only time I didn't do that recently is when I had 2 brews going at the same time, and the one that wasn't in the cooler ended up with some bubble gum flavor.

If your living room is around 70 and the wort gets close to 80 during fermentation, you'll be outside the recommended range for most yeast. My most recent beer used US-05. The recommended range is 59-72. I had it in my swamp cooler at around 60 for a couple days, then pulled it out and left it in the basement at 64. I'll bring it upstairs which is about 70 in a couple days to help it finish up.

 

[jswordy]

People who do no chill let their wort sit for day(s) prior to pitching. As long as you are careful with sanitation, you'll be fine. I waited a day and a half once as I waited for my starter to finish. No problem at all.

I'm just going by what every set of instructions tells me about when the wort is most vulnerable. That doesn't mean it can't be done. Glad it worked out for you.

 

[wineinmd]

I'm just going by what every set of instructions tells me about when the wort is most vulnerable. That doesn't mean it can't be done. Glad it worked out for you.

The instructions are indeed correct. I just wanted to share my experience and that shared with me by others. Your wort isn't some sort of ticking time bomb unless your sanitation practices are poor.

The kit instructions are generally geared towards beginners, whose sanitation practices might be the weakest link in safely getting beer from point A to point B. You can screw a lot of things up and still end up with drinkable beer. Bad sanitation is probably Enemy #1 in ending up with a dumper though.

Here is a good thread on no-chill. It is almost 6 years old with 1400 replies. If life ever gets in the way, or you run out of ice, or your bucket goes missing or gets a crack in it, your wort will be OK for a while, assuming your sanitation practices are sound.

 

[jswordy]

Temptation...

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garde...efccid=6ZBSTP5VKEMYKESHZBJ3TOPDYM&searchidx=1

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garde...efccid=UUVJ5IJQWXD3ESCB32ML72URLE&searchidx=0

They also have brew kettle setups, although I went with the 36-quart at top. Plenty for what I need. Watch for their sales, I got mine for $77, free shipping.

The bucket is the bomb. Works great. People keep telling me wort chiller, but this does it in the same time. It does cost me $5 for ice, but that's a small investment.

The reason I don't want to get too much invested in beer equipment is that I react to it in ways I do not react to wine. So I can't be drinking it all the time. That's why I started making wine in the first place, was because beer makes my joints ache. The high percentage of gluten in it, I suspect.

Ellllllllllmmmmmmmmeeeeeerrrrrr!!!!

FREE SHIPPING over $50, dood!

 

[cmason1957]

I have to tell the story of my wonderful wife and our brew kettle. We have a 32 quart brew kettle. She and her daughter decided to stop at a Goodwill store one day near where we live. Her daughter is a very free spirit and often buys clothes from Goodwill.

While they were shopping, I get a call that my wife is standing in front of a 32 quart pot for $20. I instantly asked her why it wasn't in her possession, yet. What a great find. Might be worth checking around to see if you can pick one up.

 

[Elmer]

As previously mentioned I dumped the entire trub into the primary.
Some say it is fine, some would not.
I Came across information which indicated that trub in primary may lead to a clearer, crisper beer.

Of course it appears as the tester kegs, so that may add a little more clarity than bottling.

http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/22/the-impact-of-kettle-trub-part-2-exbeeriment-results/

 

[jswordy]

I have to tell the story of my wonderful wife and our brew kettle. We have a 32 quart brew kettle. She and her daughter decided to stop at a Goodwill store one day near where we live. Her daughter is a very free spirit and often buys clothes from Goodwill.

While they were shopping, I get a call that my wife is standing in front of a 32 quart pot for $20. I instantly asked her why it wasn't in her possession, yet. What a great find. Might be worth checking around to see if you can pick one up.

Might be worth a try but there are ZERO pots, pans, turkey pots, etc. at our local Goodwill, and my wife shops there weekly. We wear a lot of Goodwill clothing since my pay was chopped in half back in 2012. I get compliments all the time on my clothes - LOL, little do they know!

As you probably know, GW ships it's donations all over the countryside, so if there's no call for pots in my store, they don't stock them.

Anyway, for a brand-new decent-quality stainless steel pot, you can't beat the Overstock price, I don't think. I got my 36 for $77 on sale, free shipping.

 

[jswordy]

As previously mentioned I dumped the entire trub into the primary.
Some say it is fine, some would not.
I Came across information which indicated that trub in primary may lead to a clearer, crisper beer.

Of course it appears as the tester kegs, so that may add a little more clarity than bottling.

http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/22/the-impact-of-kettle-trub-part-2-exbeeriment-results/

I reckon you are gonna find out!

 

[wineinmd]

Another option for stainless pots. Adventures in Homebrewing is having a scratch and dent sale. 15 gallon kettles. 1 port = $80. 2 ports = $90. The link goes to the page on the site I use for homebrew deals. I follow them on Twitter and have picked up a couple things they've posted.

AIH has pretty good prices on pots in general, but this is a good deal if you're looking for something big.

 

[Elmer]

I moved my bucket away from the heat vent where it was thermostrip read 70F,
I moved it off the side, about 5 ft away under a piano. this is the warmest wall in the warmest part of the house (family room)
now the bucket ranges between 64 early in the AM to 68 during the day.
This is the best I can do at the moment.
I am going to the pet store to invest in a heater for a swamp heating set up.
Just have to figure out what size aquarium heater to go for.
Might be able to get away with using a cooler, which have a drain on the bottom for easy clean up.
It is the same I use to bottle condition my bottles!