Grape growing question

[j4shey]

A few years ago I planted some pinot noir grapes on my property. It was only 40 vines, meant as a start to a hobby vineyard. I have struggled each year with fungus and unhealthy vines. I’m trying everything but these vines seem to just not cooperate. Is there an easier varietal grow that’s hardy and a little more disease free? I think these pinot noir vines are just too finicky for me.

 

[NorCal]

You are in a great location for Pinot, I wouldn't give up. What is your protocol for pruning, spraying, suckering etc? Any pictures?

 

[j4shey]

You are in a great location for Pinot, I wouldn't give up. What is your protocol for pruning, spraying, suckering etc? Any pictures?

I’ve struggled with fungus on them since I started them 4 years ago. They produced decent clusters last year, but this year was a total loss. I thinned out the shoots early season and then again in June but I was late with my copper fungicide. We had such a dry start to the growing season, I figured I was past the fungal risk. Plus, I was able to get a good crop last year. I’m such a novice that I figured I had beaten back the fungal issues from two years ago.

 

[j4shey]

I’ve struggled with fungus on them since I started them 4 years ago. They produced decent clusters last year, but this year was a total loss. I thinned out the shoots early season and then again in June but I was late with my copper fungicide. We had such a dry start to the growing season, I figured I was past the fungal risk. Plus, I was able to get a good crop last year. I’m such a novice that I figured I had beaten back the fungal issues from two years ago.

 

[NorCal]

I attended a UCD talk and the presenter was adamant the the first spray should be just after bud break, when shoots are just a few inches long and it should be a strong sulfur spraying. Thereafter, alternate between copper base and sulfur base.

 

[Rice_Guy]

A Midwest point of view; I struggled with black rot until someone in the vinters group identified Black rot and then told me about Mancozeb. Read the label, the rules on some fungicides are different in California than the Midwest.

 

[Gizmo x]

I have had a problem with fungus this year also. I have three grape vines in my backyard that I planted four years ago. Last year I had a good crop of grapes and thought I would make some wine. It worked out really well and I was able to make about 10 gallons of what I call table wine. This year the grapes were doing very well and produced quite well. I began tasting them whenever I went to my garden and they were getting sweeter every day. Then “Debbie” happened. Four to five days of rain and my grapes were COMPLETELY gone. I couldn’t believe it! Not a grape left on the vines. What the heck happened? I guess I have to learn how to take better care of my grape vines.

Where do I go to learn how to take care of my grapes?

 

[Rice_Guy]

. Four to five days of rain and my grapes were COMPLETELY gone. What the heck happened? ?

Grapes don’t like humidity, it creates an environment where fungus can grow. With several days of rain your small infections sporulated and propagated new infection spots.
The general recommendation for me in the Midwest is to spray every week to nine days as a preventative. California / a dry climate will require less spraying. A plant with an open form will dry and require less control. 2023 here was a drought so I needed less spraying. Early season control is important, as at green buds, leaf opening, and flowering.

 

[mgmarty]

It begins at bud break and continues through out the growing season. Only time I dont spray is when its over 100 degrees. I spray mostly Captan. Here in Utah its powdery mildew we fight. Black rot occurs only once in awhile. Years ago I almost gave up on vitis-vinifera, then I got serious with a spray program.
It’s PREVENTATIVE spraying, if you see mildew your already to late. Soon as the vines bud break, you spray every 7-10 days.

https://horticulture.ca.uky.edu/

This is a great sight with pics for reference.

 

[j4shey]

I attended a UCD talk and the presenter was adamant the the first spray should be just after bud break, when shoots are just a few inches long and it should be a strong sulfur spraying. Thereafter, alternate between copper base and sulfur base.

NorCal,
Any chance I could talk with you direct? I have so many novice questions and I’m also having trouble downloading any vine pictures to this chat. [email protected]

Jeff

 

[NorCal]

NorCal,
Any chance I could talk with you direct? I have so many novice questions and I’m also having trouble downloading any vine pictures to this chat. [email protected]

Jeff

You bet, I’ll message you my #.

 

[verdot]

A Midwest point of view; I struggled with black rot until someone in the vinters group identified Black rot and then told me about Mancozeb. Read the label, the rules on some fungicides are different in California than the Midwest.

A few years ago I planted some pinot noir grapes on my property. It was only 40 vines, meant as a start to a hobby vineyard. I have struggled each year with fungus and unhealthy vines. I’m trying everything but these vines seem to just not cooperate. Is there an easier varietal grow that’s hardy and a little more disease free? I think these pinot noir vines are just too finicky for me.

Sounds like you need a weekly or bi-weekly preventative spray program. We use mancozeb, sulfur and captan throughout the season. Mildew is something you will always be combating as a grape grower.

 

[Snafflebit]

I have read that over 12 brix, the powdery mildew does not affect the grape berries. Is that other people's experience? I have noted some clusters on Zinfandel where the berries look perfect but the peduncles look white and fuzzy, not green and glossy.

 

[NorCal]

I have read that over 12 brix, the powdery mildew does not affect the grape berries. Is that other people's experience? I have noted some clusters on Zinfandel where the berries look perfect but the peduncles look white and fuzzy, not green and glossy.

Definitely something that has to be nipped in the bud early. My mistake this year was using the same protocol that worked excellent the year before. I learned that you have to change it up between sulphur, copper or other. Last year I got 800 pounds of Syrah from my vineyard, this year 160 pounds of grapes worth making wine out of.

Fortunately the Cab and the Zin look better. This is a good Syrah cluster.

 

[Neb Farmer]

I have read that over 12 brix, the powdery mildew does not affect the grape berries. Is that other people's experience? I have noted some clusters on Zinfandel where the berries look perfect but the peduncles look white and fuzzy, not green and glossy.

I have heard/read the same thing...once verasion begins there is less chance of powdery mildew affecting the berries. That has seemed to prove true for me in my small little 45 vine-vineyard.
BUT...the vines can still be infected, which can carry over into the following year. So it isn't just about the grapes,
Also, once the berries are ripening they might not get powdery mildew, but they could still be susceptable to rot later on , right before harvest. Sometimes I still hit them ( spray ) 4 weeks before harvest with either wettable sulphur ( MICROTHIOL DISPERSS ) and/or potassium bicarbonate ( ArmiCarb )

 

[Snafflebit]

I will do further research on ArmiCarb. It seems to be compatible with micronized sulfur and maybe acts similarly to lime sulfur treatments, and it is wetting. I don't think my disease issues require Mancozeb, yet, but systemic fungicide would let me be a lot more lazy in my protocol.