Gravity not dropping
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I had the same problem with a batch of blueberry and strawberry this past week. I went through the procedure and didnt have any fermentation occuring. George sent me some Lalvin EC-118 and I rehydrated it and added some must to it. Let it sit, add some more, doubling the amount each time until I had a whole gallon going. Then added it tothe other four gallons. Worked like a charm. My only concern is that I had to add alot of acid blend to get the must up to .55 to .60. I tested using the syringe method. Later on I tested with some liptus paper and it indicated High Acid. Im wondering if I'll lose some acid through fermentation or if I'll have to reduce it with calcium.
Please check out this link it will explain acids in great detail and should answer this question for you. Tasting and testing after fermentation is complete will help decide the next course of action.
http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/acid.asp
http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/acid.asp
When fresh and completely dissolved, one campden tablet will add about 75ppm of SO2 to the must or wine. 1/8 teaspoon of bisulfite per gallon adds about 120ppm of SO2.
Perhaps the single advantage of campden tablets is the measured dose. One tablet per gallon is an easy measurement. This can be difficult to accomplish with measuring spoons where about 1/16 of a teaspoon is about one campden tablet. I think you would be safe with a rounded1/8 teaspoon in 3 gallons and a rounded1/4 teaspoonin 5 gallons. CountryWine canprovide more insight on this.
To overcome the problems in completely dissolving campden tablets and measuring sulfite powder with measuring spoons, I prepare and use a 10% sulfite solution. One teaspoon of 10% sulfite solution is about equal to one campden tablet.
Perhaps the single advantage of campden tablets is the measured dose. One tablet per gallon is an easy measurement. This can be difficult to accomplish with measuring spoons where about 1/16 of a teaspoon is about one campden tablet. I think you would be safe with a rounded1/8 teaspoon in 3 gallons and a rounded1/4 teaspoonin 5 gallons. CountryWine canprovide more insight on this.
To overcome the problems in completely dissolving campden tablets and measuring sulfite powder with measuring spoons, I prepare and use a 10% sulfite solution. One teaspoon of 10% sulfite solution is about equal to one campden tablet.
AAASTINKIE
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the solution to campden tablets disolving is go buy a pill crusher at
the drug store, I can crush 4 at a time to a fine powder and they
disolve completely on contact
the drug store, I can crush 4 at a time to a fine powder and they
disolve completely on contact
I have done plenty of research and lots of thinking on this topic of problems with fermentation of fruit other than grapes and here are my thoughts:
<UL>
<LI>manygrapes contain all the correct amount of compounds/nutrients to allow for a successful and complete fermentation even without adding yeast (this has been done for thousands of years)
<LI>fresh fruit, canned purees, and solid pack fruit do not have all these correct compounds/nutrients for a successful and complete fermentation (Oregon Fruit Purees are sterile no heating or sulfite is needed)
<LI>heating the fruit or veggies to at least 150 degrees F will kill off the wild yeasts and bacteria so no sulfite should be needed when using recipelike this
<LI>adding sulfites also prevents wild yeasts and bacteriafrom taking over or ruining your controlled fermentation
<LI>using commercially prepared yeasts is done to control the final alcohol amount and also help bring out certain flavors in the wine
<LI>using too much sulfite will certainly inhibit the fermentation and remember not all yeasts are created equal...some are more tolerant of sulfite/nutrients and other compounds
<LI>I believe that the instructions provided with some of the solid pack fruit may be airing the on the high end of the sulfite level for the most protection against the nasties (75-100 ppm is plenty at the start and these levels should drop before the yeast is added)
<LI>As Joesph and others have pointed out, correct measurement and application of sulfites in any form is key to provide the protection and also not to cause problems with fermentation
<LI>treating your yeast properly and understanding how it works is also key knowledge for a wine maker
<LI>I truly believe re hydrating your yeast properly and not just sprinkling it over the must is very important to a successful fermentation every time! I do not understand why some instructions say to do this and I am not saying it will not work but why not give your yeast the best chance of success!</LI>[/list]
found this article and wanted to share....as CW says read read read!
http://www.makewine.com/makewine/yeast1.html
Edited by: masta
<UL>
<LI>manygrapes contain all the correct amount of compounds/nutrients to allow for a successful and complete fermentation even without adding yeast (this has been done for thousands of years)
<LI>fresh fruit, canned purees, and solid pack fruit do not have all these correct compounds/nutrients for a successful and complete fermentation (Oregon Fruit Purees are sterile no heating or sulfite is needed)
<LI>heating the fruit or veggies to at least 150 degrees F will kill off the wild yeasts and bacteria so no sulfite should be needed when using recipelike this
<LI>adding sulfites also prevents wild yeasts and bacteriafrom taking over or ruining your controlled fermentation
<LI>using commercially prepared yeasts is done to control the final alcohol amount and also help bring out certain flavors in the wine
<LI>using too much sulfite will certainly inhibit the fermentation and remember not all yeasts are created equal...some are more tolerant of sulfite/nutrients and other compounds
<LI>I believe that the instructions provided with some of the solid pack fruit may be airing the on the high end of the sulfite level for the most protection against the nasties (75-100 ppm is plenty at the start and these levels should drop before the yeast is added)
<LI>As Joesph and others have pointed out, correct measurement and application of sulfites in any form is key to provide the protection and also not to cause problems with fermentation
<LI>treating your yeast properly and understanding how it works is also key knowledge for a wine maker
<LI>I truly believe re hydrating your yeast properly and not just sprinkling it over the must is very important to a successful fermentation every time! I do not understand why some instructions say to do this and I am not saying it will not work but why not give your yeast the best chance of success!</LI>[/list]
found this article and wanted to share....as CW says read read read!
http://www.makewine.com/makewine/yeast1.html
Edited by: masta
MedPretzel
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masta said:
Don't ever try this. It's more trouble than it's worth.
geocorn
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In the last article of WineMaker Magazine, Tim Vandergrift explained the rational behindsprinkling, instead of rehydrating. Bascially, it is a more foolproof method than re-hydrating. As we all know, yeasts are extremely temperature sensitive and not all home wine makers have the necessary equipment to make sure the water used for re-hydrating does not get too hot. Since, as was pointed out, varietal grapes always have plenty of the right incredients for the yeasts to multiply, the sprinkling works well.
However; fresh fruits are a completely different story, so re-hydration is probably the better avenue.
However; fresh fruits are a completely different story, so re-hydration is probably the better avenue.
I would be interested in reading this article....haven't started getting my subscription as of yet.
I use to be a sprinkler and Iknow both ways work....so what ever methods works for you is best. Maybe a poll item is in order to find out what our members are doing?
I use to be a sprinkler and Iknow both ways work....so what ever methods works for you is best. Maybe a poll item is in order to find out what our members are doing?
MedPretzel
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I also do the sprinkle method when I want to do it quickly. But now and then, usually on a whim, I also re-hydrate.
I rehydrated yeast one time, in the early days of my winemaking. I could not see the difference it made in my wine,although it worked well, and I have been simple sprinkling the yeast on top of the must ever since. Ya gotta get some on the bag of pulp also, and do not stir or otherwise mess with it until fermentation is obvious.
Never use more than one campden tablet per gallon of must, noting the level in your fermentor with the pulp bag lifted up. As Stinkie advised, use a pill crusher. I put the campden and other ingredients in a blender with some of the must and hit the highest button for a few seconds. It will be mixed well then.
If using K-Meta powder for batches less than 6 gallons, you need a milligram scale. One-quarter tsp. is the amount for 6 gallons, whether sanitizing must or stabilizing the finished wine. One-eighth tsp. would be correct for 3 gallons, but is difficult to measure accurately. Your campden tablets should be K-Meta. nowadays, and are much easier to use. I highly recommend them.
Never use more than one campden tablet per gallon of must, noting the level in your fermentor with the pulp bag lifted up. As Stinkie advised, use a pill crusher. I put the campden and other ingredients in a blender with some of the must and hit the highest button for a few seconds. It will be mixed well then.
If using K-Meta powder for batches less than 6 gallons, you need a milligram scale. One-quarter tsp. is the amount for 6 gallons, whether sanitizing must or stabilizing the finished wine. One-eighth tsp. would be correct for 3 gallons, but is difficult to measure accurately. Your campden tablets should be K-Meta. nowadays, and are much easier to use. I highly recommend them.
partsguy73
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Hi I'm real new to this and this is my problem.I started with 12 can of cranberry concentrate and added 4ld sugar.SG was at about 220 and it is higher now than a week ago .Temp is 73 yeast was stated prperly and was bibbling every 7 seconds for 6 days and now is down to 30 seconds.Taste is sweet.Why no drop on hydrometer
Wait, your reported SG (220) does not make any sense. Can you verify the reading a week ago and what it is now?
