3lbs of honey per gallon, roughly 1 quart honey per 3 quarts water. Use warm water, and stir the honey in until it's thoroughly dissolved; you dont want a lump of honey coating the bottom of the fermentation vessel.
Should put you in the right range, but you'll want to check it with a hydrometer to make sure your SG is somewhere between 1.080 - 1.095; aerate it well, and read about SNAs (staggered nutrient additions). Meads are pretty devoid of any (yeast-assimilable nitrogen) YAN, so there needs to be consideration taken into account for how to feed them.
This post is a good place to start for understanding nutrient addition schedules. How much you need depends on what you use.
You'd need to figure out how much nutrient you need for the whole batch, then split it into 2 or 3 additions; the first addition is always after the lag phase, wait until the yeast are actually consuming the sugar and fermentation has begun. The second addition is at the 2/3 sugar break normally, with a final addition of nutrients at the 1/2 sugar break. If you're using organic nitrogen nutrients (Fermaid-O), you can add the first after the lag phase, the 2nd addition at 2/3 sugar break and the final addition at 1/3 sugar break.
Keep the temp low; how low depends on the yeast you use and its temperature tolerance. D-47 is pretty common for mead, it gives some mouthfeel/body, has low nitrogen needs, likes to be fermented cool and will enhance fruity characteristics.
I always use Booster Blanc & Opti-White as well, they can be sourced in single-batch sizes from Doug at Brew & Wine Supply, or through MoreWine. These have many benefits between the two, and will only enhance the final product.
That's about as simple as it gets, due to meads being a little more finickier than most fermentations because of the lack of yeast nutrition. But the effort is well-worth the outcome.