Racoon breaching electric fence netting

[VinesnBines]

My Marquette is starting veraison, so to fight the racoons and other varmints in my vineyard, I bought 1300 feet of Premier 1 poultry netting; 48 inches high 11 hot wires and 3 inch holes in the netting, posts at every 6.5 feet. I got the biggest energizer and had sufficient joules according to the instructions. Energized on Saturday. On Saturday night the trail camera caught a racoon checking it out. On Sunday a groundhog ran under the netting. Last night the racoon returned - at 2:20 am he was outside the fence, by 3:05 am he was inside. We had trimmed the trees so I don't think he went over the top. I can only assume he went under the netting.

Suggestions. I'm getting traps but should I try plastic anchors in between the posts. The company said not to try baiting the fence. I'm going to net the grapes but the racoon can get through the net. I think I will get some battery motion detector floodlights but I'm afraid nothing will help. Is trapping my only resort?

On the plus side it appears the deer are staying out, though deer at this time of year have not been my worst problem.

 

[vinny]

Would a solid barrier on the back side of the posts be an option? Then they would need to dig or climb, which might cause contact with the fence.

Around here farmers use slabs as a cheap option. The outside cuts of a tree when making it square for cutting into lumber. Mills sell them for cheap. You could use something like that, even a 1x6 (I am just thinking cost effective) and run a row at the bottom of the fence as a solid barrier. I don't know if you could staple the fence to the wood, or if the current would burn it.

I am just thinking if they couldn't slip under easily they may get a shock trying.

 

[vinny]

If that didn't work I would probably do a midnight shift with a .22 and a chair, but that is only an option is certain areas.

 

[Rob Kneeland]

I had good luck live trapping with marshmallows as bait. They get nasty when trapped but a blanket helped. Then took them for a long drive to a public forest.

 

[salcoco]

run a electric fence along bottom of regular fence. also run the ground about 4 inches below or above the charging wire. the racoon will touch both and not come back. actually any animal trying to go under the fence will get zapped.

 

[VinesnBines]

These are real good suggestions! Further research has revealed that we probably need to run a dedicated line to the charger - extension cords may be pulling current. I think we also need to trap this big sucker. The pictures are about 35 minutes apart. He needs to find a new hunting ground.

 

[JustJoe]

If that didn't work I would probably do a midnight shift with a .22 and a chair, but that is only an option is certain areas.

I have used an air rifle and found it to be very effective on raccoons. That is legal in some areas where a 22 is not.

 

[vinny]

What gauge extension cord are you running. Unless you are using cheap cords on a really long run, you should be fine.

To clarify, if you get an electrician to run a wire out and install a box, It's going to be 14 gauge wire. If the run is too long you may need to run 12 or 10 gauge to account for voltage drop, but the long and short of it is that there is no difference if the line is underground or above. You may need a bigger extension cord, but that will be MUCH cheaper than an electrician any day..

 

[BigDaveK]

I've had 2 traps destroyed by them. Ongoing battle.
Yes, they love marshmallow. Peanut butter on marshmallow is like crack.
.22 will take multiple rounds.
Motion controlled lights don't work.

They seem to be creatures of habit, taking the same routes. Chances are they're close to that same spot most of the time. I understand a permanent solution is preferred but this might buy some time - how about motion controlled sprinkler?

https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-62100-...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584138871894805&th=1

 

[sour_grapes]

These are real good suggestions! Further research has revealed that we probably need to run a dedicated line to the charger - extension cords may be pulling current. I think we also need to trap this big sucker. The pictures are about 35 minutes apart. He needs to find a new hunting ground.

What gauge extension cord are you running. Unless you are using cheap cords on a really long run, you should be fine.

To clarify, if you get an electrician to run a wire out and install a box, It's going to be 14 gauge wire. If the run is too long you may need to run 12 or 10 gauge to account for voltage drop, but the long and short of it is that there is no difference if the line is underground or above. You may need a bigger extension cord, but that will be MUCH cheaper than an electrician any day..

I agree with Vinny. I really, REALLY doubt that the gauge of your extension cord is a problem. I strongly believe that the fence will not be drawing much power, which is what the cord "cares about." What was your "further research"?

 

[ChuckD]

The bottom wire in the fence is not hot as it sits on the ground. I would stake the bottom wire down and make him try to climb.

 

[VinesnBines]

What gauge extension cord are you running. Unless you are using cheap cords on a really long run, you should be fine.

To clarify, if you get an electrician to run a wire out and install a box, It's going to be 14 gauge wire. If the run is too long you may need to run 12 or 10 gauge to account for voltage drop, but the long and short of it is that there is no difference if the line is underground or above. You may need a bigger extension cord, but that will be MUCH cheaper than an electrician any day..

The cords (three) are 12 ga. One is 100 feet, one 50 feet and one is a roughly 20 feet. The short one is a repaired cord. My dear husband apparently thinks cords need to be shortened by the lawn mower. I guess this means his wife runs too many cords through grass. Anyway, we know more connections drain power. We have the wire and will run the line ourselves so no electrician costs.

I agree with Vinny. I really, REALLY doubt that the gauge of your extension cord is a problem. I strongly believe that the fence will not be drawing much power, which is what the cord "cares about." What was your "further research"?

The research was an email and call to Premier One. The instructions with the energizer says to NOT use extension cords and plug directly into an outlet. Hence the decision to run a line to the vineyard. If the wire has not been stolen from the barn, it should be fairly simple to run a dedicated outlet.

've had 2 traps destroyed by them. Ongoing battle.
Yes, they love marshmallow. Peanut butter on marshmallow is like crack.
.22 will take multiple rounds.
Motion controlled lights don't work.

They seem to be creatures of habit, taking the same routes. Chances are they're close to that same spot most of the time. I understand a permanent solution is preferred but this might buy some time - how about motion controlled sprinkler?

I was going to try the lights so good to know that didn't work for you. I've heard sprinklers do work. I do need a permanent solution at least until past harvest. That or I need to train the darn thing to help harvest. It does seem to be a creature of habit. Caught a couple pictures last night BUT the racoon(s) were OUTSIDE the fence. Maybe??? Still going to try to catch it.

he bottom wire in the fence is not hot as it sits on the ground. I would stake the bottom wire down and make him try to climb.

This I am going to try. The groundhog went under the fence too. I know the groundhog will just burrow in - it needs to be trapped too.

Great advice. Thanks for the advice and sympathy. I know this is an ongoing war. Commercial growers are trapping and fencing al the time.

 

[Omabob]

I raise sweet corn on the farm, inorder to protect it I run an electric fence wire about 3-4 inches from the ground, another electric wire about 6 inches above that, and a third electric fence wire at the top of the post. The two bottom wires keep out the raccoons, and the top wire keeps out the deer.

Also my sweet corn patch is 150 yards or so from power so I place the electric fencer near the power outlet and run the electric fence wire to the patch. I have run the electric fence wire thru sections of hose or pvc if I need to protect an area from pets or people.

Make sure that the hot wire is insulated well and the meter is reading in the green, also make sure that you have a good ground rod at the fencer driven several feet into the ground. If the ground is really dry I will dump some water around the ground rod.

 

[Omabob]

I test the strength of the discharge by taking a short piece of electric fence wire and sticking it in the ground, then with insulated pliers I will bring the wire close to the charged wire at the patch and look for a spark. Should jump about 1/4 inch, then I know that I don't have the charged wire shorted out some where.
bob

 

[larsnpmi]

I've had 2 traps destroyed by them. Ongoing battle.
Yes, they love marshmallow. Peanut butter on marshmallow is like crack.
.22 will take multiple rounds.
Motion controlled lights don't work.

They seem to be creatures of habit, taking the same routes. Chances are they're close to that same spot most of the time. I understand a permanent solution is preferred but this might buy some time - how about motion controlled sprinkler?

https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-62100-...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584138871894805&th=1

Thanks for the sprinkler suggestion. I just ordered it for delivery today.

 

[mikewatkins727]

@VinesnBines To keep any critter from going under the fence take 2' high chicken wire and fold in lengthwise with at least 12" on one side. Best to bury the short side about 2 or so inches into the dirt. Most critters won't reason it out that they are standing on the fence that keeps them out and they need to back up.

 

[FlamingoEmporium]

I test the strength of the discharge by taking a short piece of electric fence wire and sticking it in the ground, then with insulated pliers I will bring the wire close to the charged wire at the patch and look for a spark. Should jump about 1/4 inch, then I know that I don't have the charged wire shorted out some where.
bob

I was gonna say lick your finger then touch the fence to see how much of a charge it has, but I guess your way is probably better.

 

[sour_grapes]

I agree with Vinny. I really, REALLY doubt that the gauge of your extension cord is a problem. I strongly believe that the fence will not be drawing much power, which is what the cord "cares about." What was your "further research"?

The research was an email and call to Premier One. The instructions with the energizer says to NOT use extension cords and plug directly into an outlet. Hence the decision to run a line to the vineyard. If the wire has not been stolen from the barn, it should be fairly simple to run a dedicated outlet.

Obviously, you should take the course of action you deem appropriate. However, I stand by my statement.

You could, if you were so inclined, ask Premier One what the current draw of their fence is. (And you had a 12 AWG cord!?!?!? That is the gold standard!)

 

[vinny]

Obviously, you should take the course of action you deem appropriate. However, I stand by my statement.

You could, if you were so inclined, ask Premier One what the current draw of their fence is. (And you had a 12 AWG cord!?!?!? That is the gold standard!)

I agree that the draw is not the slightest bit of a concern.

I stand by his statement, too.

However, If it was me I would run the line. You will use for more than the fence. Plus it will look better than a cord, and the cord will still be the same length next year!

 

[VinesnBines]

I think the dedicated line will be one part of the plan. That will free up my extension cords and prevent water shorting out the cords...we have heavy dew and too easy for the cord to be unplugged inadvertently or the connection to fail. I've had that happen with my greenhouse.

The best news is that no racoons were on the trail camera last night. The camera is aimed toward the Marquette which is starting veraison.

The rest of the plan is to try trapping and staking down the fence between the posts. The last piece is netting. Netting won't stop a racoon but with the fence and the netting, I'm hoping to cut the losses. Trapping is essential because I have no idea how large the racoon population is.

We have coyotes but they seem uninterested in this big guy. Maybe he is too crafty.