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John - I used D254 in my primary and didn't start the MLF until after pressing. I'd check with WE to see what they say about doing an MLF on this kit. But, if it's an issue at all, I have a gallon bag of PS skins you can have.

That's quite the kind offer, your generosity is much appreciated!! Since they are already thawed, the plan to add the Bravado mix to them this evening will continue, unless WE get back in touch with me and tells me that they put sorbate into the juice during their manufacturing processes.
 
That's quite the kind offer, your generosity is much appreciated!! Since they are already thawed, the plan to add the Bravado mix to them this evening will continue, unless WE get back in touch with me and tells me that they put sorbate into the juice during their manufacturing processes.


Anytime. I'm interested to see how this washes out. My plan is to reuse my PS skins in the next Zin kit I do - should have good results.
 
That's quite the kind offer, your generosity is much appreciated!! Since they are already thawed, the plan to add the Bravado mix to them this evening will continue, unless WE get back in touch with me and tells me that they put sorbate into the juice during their manufacturing processes.
The kit might have sorbic acid added to it, but the real problem is that Malic acid is used to form part of the acid profile in kits, and if you do an MLF, it will be lacking in acid, and I believe the term "flabby" would then be used to describe it. It was in Tim's kit wine edition of Winemaker mag, but I turfed it after 7 years or so. I think the rules is, NEVER do MLF on a kit.
 
The kit might have sorbic acid added to it, but the real problem is that Malic acid is used to form part of the acid profile in kits, and if you do an MLF, it will be lacking in acid, and I believe the term "flabby" would then be used to describe it. It was in Tim's kit wine edition of Winemaker mag, but I turfed it after 7 years or so. I think the rules is, NEVER do MLF on a kit.

It's not my intention to MLF the kit, but it may occur since the skins have been exposed to MLB. If it happens it happens. I'm unafraid of balancing the wine with tartaric acid when the malic is gone.
 
I just racked and degassed my Bravado. I fermented it to dry in the primary to maintain contact with the skins as long as possible. I only used only the RC212, skipping the EC1118.

The ferment proceeded relatively slowly it seemed, taking nearly 3 weeks to go down to 0.996 from 1.096 at 70-72 degrees. I often let the fermentation run that long in total, but it seems as though the sugars were chewed up at a much more slow, steady pace. My previous experience has seen the SG drop to 1.010 in 5-7 days...occasionally as quick as 4 days. This ferment took 8 days to get to that point.

More striking to me, however, was the poor compaction of the lees. I would estimate I lost 0.5 gallons of liquid. I transferred a majority of the very clumpy, loosely compacted "sludge" into a 1 gallon container to see how much I can salvage with further settling time, but I want to fully top of my carboy soon. I used three bottles of similar wine (my WE LE Super Tuscan) already, but there is still quite a bit of head space.

I wonder if the EC1118 is provided to assist in the compaction of the lees as much as in aiding in the fermentation. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
I just racked and degassed my Bravado. I fermented it to dry in the primary to maintain contact with the skins as long as possible. I only used only the RC212, skipping the EC1118..

I wonder if the EC1118 is provided to assist in the compaction of the lees as much as in aiding in the fermentation. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
I used both as per the instructions*. The fermentation was done in 6 days (.991), but my beginning SG was only 1.092, and after I gave the bag of skins a pretty good squeeze. I racked on day 7 and with a little work, I got mostly a full carboy (see attachment). As often happens, the oak chips plugged my auto-siphon a couple of times, and with 2 yeast packets, there were a lot of lees (about 2 pounds see attachment). I poured the lees into a strainer, and let the liquid run out. I got an additional litre doing that.

*I e-mailed WE to ask about the two yeasts, but they didn't get back to me for 3 days, so I think customer service is on the decline since the takeover. According to Lallemond, EC1118 has the competitive factor, while RC212 is neutral, so they do get along which convinced me to use both. I hope its a flavor or aroma thing.

20161126_151754.jpg

20161126_155423.jpg
 
More striking to me, however, was the poor compaction of the lees. I would estimate I lost 0.5 gallons of liquid. I transferred a majority of the very clumpy, loosely compacted "sludge" into a 1 gallon container to see how much I can salvage with further settling time, but I want to fully top of my carboy soon. I used three bottles of similar wine (my WE LE Super Tuscan) already, but there is still quite a bit of head space.

I wonder if the EC1118 is provided to assist in the compaction of the lees as much as in aiding in the fermentation. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

This has been my experience with all WE grape skin kits. And I almost always do as you did - siphon that mess off into a 1 gallon carboy and salvage what I can. I'm lucky if I can get a half gallon out of it, but I'll take it.
 
Just ordered a Bravdo Super Tuscan from HomeBrewSupply today using the CYBERMONDAY 10% off code... Should have some room to start this one in Mid December. Will be following this thread closely. :h
 
Just ordered a Bravdo Super Tuscan from HomeBrewSupply today using the CYBERMONDAY 10% off code... Should have some room to start this one in Mid December. Will be following this thread closely. :h

Make sure you put the oak chips in the skins bag or it will be a mess (major clogging issue) trying to siphon out of the primary fermentor! I just went through that a week ago!
 
Make sure you put the oak chips in the skins bag or it will be a mess (major clogging issue) trying to siphon out of the primary fermentor! I just went through that a week ago!

Thanks for the tip! Will do. :h
 
Getting ready to start this kit over the holiday and was thinking about saving the oak cubes (not the powders that go in the primary) for bulk aging instead of putting them in the secondary. Not sure if I'd be losing something by not having them in the secondary, but figuring that they are doing it there as if I follow the plan there is no bulk aging.

Thoughts/Suggestions?
 
Getting ready to start this kit over the holiday and was thinking about saving the oak cubes (not the powders that go in the primary) for bulk aging instead of putting them in the secondary. Not sure if I'd be losing something by not having them in the secondary, but figuring that they are doing it there as if I follow the plan there is no bulk aging.

Thoughts/Suggestions?

Since secondary is only a few weeks, and it can take 6-8 weeks for the cubes to give up all their goodies, I usually wait.
 
Perfect - thanks for all replies. :h I'll save the cubes for bulk aging.
 
We're on four months in the carboy and a recent taste was beyond what I had expected. Full body, nice nose (esp for a kit), deep coloring and dark berry flavors with touches of leather and vanilla. Tannins are moderate.

I was very worried that, after doing the LE14, this one would be similarly disappointing (though, at 20 months, the LE is finally coming around). I'm a lot less worried about that these days. A couple more months till this hits the bottles.
 
Thanks for the update. This is next up in my queue and I'm looking forward to getting it going. It sounds like you did this one pretty much by the books. Do you plan on doing any tweaks prior to bottling?

Did anyone do a yeast swap on this? Any recommendations from previous Super Tuscan kits?
 
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