Separating skins for transfer?

[CryptoStorm]

I used to use 20gal LDPE brutes,but a couple years ago I went to 20gal HDPE open head drums with locking collars.

Definitely if I was using 55 Gallon barrels I would probably do the same as johnT.

 

[sour_grapes]

Without a second thought I figured, "great it's galvanized. Good to go". Instinctually making sure the METAL had protection, not the WINE!

Love it!! That is perfect.

 

[Johnd]

Getting back to the OP, Here is what I use..

step/pic 1: Skim off the cap into the press. I got these BIG strainers (from a restaurant supply shop) and they work great. I skim the cap off BEFORE I pump out the free run juice in order to save me the back pain from having to scoop the skins off the bottom. Much easier this way.

Step/pc 2: Pump free run juice to tank/secondary. Note that I use PVC.

Step/pic3: press through a strainer and into the tank.

That's a lot of pvc in your process, surely you don't want to be ingesting all of the toxins, so just send your wine to me, I'll pay the shipping, store it in a safe place (55F and 70%RH), and dispose of it properly over time, LOL!!!!!!

 

[CryptoStorm]

You don't have to be childish. Use whatever you want.

It's not that difficult or any more expensive to spec out use the correct materials.

 

[Johnd]

It's not that difficult or any more expensive to spec out use the correct materials.

Rest assured that neither difficulty nor expense are an issue for me. Until I see empirical scientific evidence that wine passing briefly through PVC is contaminated, my opinion will continue to differ from yours about what are "correct" materials for a specific application. I hope you can respect our difference of opinion.

 

[CryptoStorm]

The pipes in flint Michigan were fine until they changed the water to a source with a lower pH.. just sayin

 

[Ajmassa]

Getting my ducks in a row for fall. Went ahead and made one of these PVC strainers for transferring a primary full of skins, seeds, lees etc. I swear I started with the best intentions and wanted it all nice and uniform but got a little carried away with the "gajillion" holes- almost finished.

Also got my new fermenter delivered from Amazon for a great price. But Needless to say I'm not loving the "USDA Condemned" written across the sides of the can, but whatcha gonna do? I checked before and after the order and is certified to NSF standards This was a very insightful thread for me and I really did learn a bunch (and pictured always help too). Hopefully other people can benefit as well.

 

[ibglowin]

Do you understand the last sentence in Spanish? Why would you think this is food grade in any way shape or form?

Also got my new fermenter delivered from Amazon for a great price. But Needless to say I'm not loving the "USDA Condemned" written across the sides of the can, but whatcha gonna do? I checked before and after the order and is certified to NSF standards This was a very insightful thread for me and I really did learn a bunch (and pictured always help too). Hopefully other people can benefit as well.View attachment 38431

 

[Ajmassa]

From this in the description of the listing.


And this website after I received it
http://www.rubbermaidcommercial.com/rcp/

Maybe I'm wrong. But I was led to believe it is food safe. "Condemned" poultry and beef containers but still in compliance with NSF standards. No?
Website copy and paste didn't work I don't think. Here's another screenshot. I thought I was in the clear

 

[ibglowin]

What markings if any are on the can?

Amazon can make mistakes quite often when one description for an item gets carried over to another "similar" type item.

From this in the description of the listing. View attachment 38432


And this website after I received it
http://www.rubbermaidcommercial.com/rcp/

Maybe I'm wrong. But I was led to believe it is food safe. "Condemned" poultry and beef containers but still in compliance with NSF standards. No?View attachment 38433

 

[Ajmassa]

Feeling confident from the listing description I placed the order. Only After opening the box I found out I was "condemned".
Immediately looked around for a comforting marking. Only markings on bottom were 2 different series of numbers in the shape of a square or triangle maybe. I forget. I left the can at the shop. But no "NSF".
That's when I started googling and found different sites stating it was nsf #2 & 21. Here's another site of the same exact can but 32 gal.

http://www.hantover.com/cgi/hnt.wsc/product.htm?p-item-num=27540&p-callprog=cust-search

**EDIT Update. Saw this thread referenced and re-reading I figured I'd update. When I first checked the trashcan it was at night after a long day of work. Somehow missed this. But all was well and good regarding the plastic.

 

[vacuumpumpman]

Yes I have posted several years ago on to get a first run using a tube and a filter screen

https://www.facebook.com/5415599092...1559909222725/572469162798466/?type=3&theater

 

[balatonwine]

Many items sold on Amazon are by affiliates who write their own copy for their product. You can not assume it meets your needs and requirements.

Maybe I'm wrong. But I was led to believe it is food safe. "Condemned" poultry and beef containers but still in compliance with NSF standards.

That container is only NSF #2 and #21. "Food safe" has a lot of levels, and #2 is the most basic one for incidental or casual contact with food during food processing (like counters or sinks) and #21 is specifically only for storing garbage (i.e. condemned poultry and beef), not food.

From : http://www.nsf.org/services/by-type/standards-publications/food-equipment-standards/

NSF/ANSI 2 establishes minimum food protection and sanitation requirements for the materials, design, fabrication, construction and performance of food handling and processing equipment (such as bakery, cafeteria, kitchen and pantry units) and other food handling and processing equipment (such as tables and components, counters, hoods, shelves and sinks).

NSF/ANSI 21 establishes minimum sanitation requirements for the materials, design and construction of new thermoplastic refuse containers intended for indoor and outdoor refuse storage.

Ideally, you should use a product that has the NSF 51 standard.

 

[mainshipfred]

Getting my ducks in a row for fall. Went ahead and made one of these PVC strainers for transferring a primary full of skins, seeds, lees etc. I swear I started with the best intentions and wanted it all nice and uniform but got a little carried away with the "gajillion" holes- almost finished.

Uniform or not it will be functional. That what counts most.

 

[ibglowin]

I am going to go out on a limb here and try and help you connect some dots. If the manufacturer of this Brute "knock off" trash can went through the expense to print right on the can in ginormous letters, in Spanish, the language that ~90% of the workers in a food plant or restaurant kitchen speak that the can is not safe for the storage or consumption of food (I do believe grapes qualify as food) so that they don't accidentally get the entire plant or restaurant shut down by a health inspector.

This trash can is more than likely not food grade........

Feeling confident from the listing description I placed the order. Only After opening the box I found out I was "condemned".
Immediately looked around for a comforting marking. Only markings on bottom were 2 different series of numbers in the shape of a square or triangle maybe. I forget. I left the can at the shop. But no "NSF".
That's when I started googling and found different sites stating it was nsf #2 & 21. Here's another site of the same exact can but 32 gal.

http://www.hantover.com/cgi/hnt.wsc/product.htm?p-item-num=27540&p-callprog=cust-search

 

[ibglowin]

OMG, is that a roll cart trash bin?

There is no way in He!! that is food grade @JohnT !!!!!!

Getting back to the OP, Here is what I use..

step/pic 1: Skim off the cap into the press. I got these BIG strainers (from a restaurant supply shop) and they work great. I skim the cap off BEFORE I pump out the free run juice in order to save me the back pain from having to scoop the skins off the bottom. Much easier this way.

Step/pc 2: Pump free run juice to tank/secondary. Note that I use PVC.

Step/pic3: press through a strainer and into the tank.

 

[Ajmassa]

Uniform or not it will be functional. That what counts most.

Agreed. But If given the chance again I would have kept it more professional looking. PVC caps are all dome shaped now at depot, but I found a thin plastic cap that should work well. Plan to wrap in mesh bag as suggested too.

And Steve, a while back you posted your strainer in this thread as well.

As far as the knockoff brute, I feel like I should have learned my lesson by now but I guess I haven't. Trying to save a few bucks often ends up not being worth it. $38 for 44 gal was saving 20-30 bucks. The listing had no mention or pics of "usda condemned" or anything FWIW. I saw "safe for food storage" as I posted in the picture, and now I'm extremely annoyed with the company.
I really don't know how much you can and can't get away with in terms of food safe plastic. Is it really that risky to use it? And @ibglowin, are you messing with JohnT or is that a real comment?
I'm just asking out of curiosity. I'm not playing games and will be picking up another legit brute

 

[ibglowin]

Real comment. No way that is any way food grade if that is a roll cart trash can.

We each have to make are own decisions in life as to the risk we are willing to accept. I have 35 years now experience in analytical chemistry. First 5 years I worked for Shell Research in Houston, TX doing analytical chemistry trouble shooting on plastics of all types via optical spectroscopy methods. I learned quite a bit about all the various types of plastics, additives, plasticizers, reasons for additives, slip agents, mold release agents. These things won't kill you overnight but they were not meant to be ingested either. Something that is not made to be in contact with food has a completely different (cheaper ) manufacturing process than something that is made to be in contact with food.

As winemakers you should never forget that you are working with not only an acidic liquid but at the end of the process a 12-14% ethanol solvent. The combination of low pH and a solvent in contact with plastics will have consequences over time if that plastic was not intended to be in contact with that type of liquid.

So while PVC pipe may work well with water, pH ~7 unless that pipe was formulated to be in contact with a low pH acidic solvent (wine) you run the risk of it stripping off those slip/release agents, plasticizers etc that they were not meant to come into contact with or soaked in.

Many of these additives are low level carcinogens. When I was working with these things I was in a OSHA regulated carcinogen monitoring plan where I had my blood monitored once a year for them.

Use caution, do your homework and for your own safety and peace of mind use the right materials in everything you do be it your job or this crazy hobby we all somehow found ourself getting into.

And @ibglowin, are you messing with JohnT or is that a real comment? I'm just asking out of curiosity. I'm not playing games and will be picking up another legit brute

 

[Kraffty]

Maybe you can return it for the confusing language and product description.
Mike

 

[Boatboy24]

$38 for 44 gal was saving 20-30 bucks.

Only a few dollars more than $38.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RD9F9OI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20