Strawberries are ready

[DuaneLovett]

Well looks like our strawberries are ready. Anybody got any advice on a really good and flavorful strawberry wine using fresh strawberries.
Thanks ,
Duane

 

[Deezil]

- Pick them
- Freeze them
- Thaw them with SO2
- Hit them with pectic enzyme
- Measure SG & pH/TA

I haven't made Strawberry myself yet, so I'm not certain on the ideal pH or TA to shoot for (guessing 3.3-3.4 pH, or .60 - .65 % TA though), but I know it's a flavor that you dont want to push the alcohol on, so try to keep the SG around 1.085..

I also know it's a (weaker) flavor that is better when not diluted with water, so that's why you don't see me mentioning it.

Rehydrate yeast with Go-Ferm if you have it; I'd go with 71B-1122 or K1V-1116. Pitch the yeast when its been over 24hrs since SO2 addition & over 12 hrs since pectic enzyme addition

Try to get the must around 75F until fermentation starts, then lower it to 68-70F.. Add yeast nutrients (Fermaid-K or -O recommended) after lag phase & at 50% sugar depletion (starting SG of 1.085 puts 50% sugar depletion around 1.040)... Rack when SG is below 1.005..

Let it ferment under airlock until the hydrometer reads the same for 3 days in a row.. Rack off gross lees; let it sit.. Rack off sur lees ~3 weeks later; let it age... Add potassium sulfite (SO2) @ 1/4 tsp per 5-6 gallons every 3 months, for 12-18 months..

- Make sure it's degassed (should be by then)
- Sorbate + sulfite if you intend to sweeten (dont do this until the wine is clear)
- Bottle

You can also consider additives like Booster Rouge and Opti-Red, and tannins..

 

[Turock]

Be sure that the strawberries are the best flavor and VERY red with no orange or white areas. The only way strawberry wine has high flavor is to go on a search and taste the berries before you buy them--they need to be of high flavor and sweet. There's some varieties that are on the sour side--don't use them. The wine will be orange in color unless the berries are ruby red. We buy berries at the Amish fruit auction and they sell a smaller berry that they call "jam berries." Those are really excellent with ruby red color.

Use no water!!! I agree to freeze them as this will yield alot of juice. But if you have a crusher, you can run fresh berries thru it instead of freezing them, if you want.

Set your PH to 3.4. You'll need 50-60 pounds of berries for 5 gallons. We use Montrachet culture for strawberry.

 

[blackspanish777]

I agree on the 50-60 lbs. The more fruit the better is what I have learned so far. If you skimp on the fruit your wine will lack flavor.

 

[DuaneLovett]

Just wanted to say thank you for all the advice. We are going to give it a go. I just have another big beginner question. If I juice or blend enough berries to make 5 gallons to keep from adding any water how do I know how much sugar to add to my juice to get my SG to the correct number? Thanks

 

[blackspanish777]

It's based on a formula. Go to the beginner section and I believe there is a link to a PDF that has examples to help you. That is what I use.


Making wine in South Texas since March 2014

Cibolo Creek Cellars

Follow us on Facebook:
www.facebook.com/sekulafamilyfarms

www.sekulafamilyfarms.com

 

[nickweg]

Great advice! I just finished my first batch of strawberry wine and wished I used way more berries. I'm getting ready to go pick strawberries this weekend and make a second batch. Does anyone have any advice on how to keep the pulp out of the wine during primary fermentation? I felt like I had way too much pulp in the must after primary fermentation. I ended up with a yeasty aftertaste once the wine was finished. I'm hoping to avoid that this go around.

 

[eazzo]

The problem is not the pulp as mostly the fruit is made of it and you cannot avoid it the real problem with strawberries is that when gravity begin doing its job it gets very dirty you have to rack it a lot of times and often to avoid the bulk to get any unwanted taste, i found it useful to make a large bulk first lets say 6 gal I usually use around 10kg fruit and have to be ripe and i rack it 4-5 times every 4-6 weeks and in the process i reduce the demijohn so i leave the real stuff and add nothing to it, until i get about 4, 1gal demijohn ... For me it worked fine like this ...

 

[nickweg]

Thanks for the advice! I'll try racking more often this time and see if that helps. You are correct It sure builds up fast!

 

[Turock]

You always have to use pectic enzyme on fruit because the fermentation alone will have a hard time breaking down all the pulp without the enzyme. If you're having a hard time working with the cap of fruit, you can bag it. Use knee length hosiery or paint strainer bags. Fruits that have small seeds should be bagged, or the wine filtered into a straining bag when bringing it from the primary to the secondary to prevent the seeds from getting into the secondary. Aging the wine on the seeds can create bitter flavors.

We like to ferment everything we do on the pulp--we do not press and just use the juice. The pulp adds lots of flavor and color to the wine. You might also think about using a better pectinase that more rapidly breaks the fruit down like Lallzyme C-Max. Get your pectinase on the must the first day along with your sulfite. On the second day when you begin the ferment, you'll have the fruit starting to break down better for you by the time the ferment starts. The pectic enzyme and the ferment will break it all down so that all you have left are the seeds. If you bag the fruit, squeeze the bags everday to help get the pulp out of the bags.