1) You state you yielded 10.5 G wine from 150lbs of fruit. Is this weight before cutting the tops off or after?
Before. My fruit weight is based on 30 gallons. I weighed one gallon and found it to weigh 5 pounds. I did not cut the tops off, I cut the green off. It's possible to do this and not remove much red at all. There is not very much weight to the green. I'd guess I lost 10 pounds or so.
2) In a later post you mention you added water. I can't figure out how much to add. What is your suggestion? How does it effect the s.g
I roughly doubled the volume with water. By the time it's all done, it will be around 6.25 pounds per gallon, give or take. If you search the forum, 6 pounds/gallon is a highly recommended strawberry weight per gallon. It balances flavor with cost considerations well.
3) Are you fermenting on the pulp or did you crush and press and then ferment? I was planning to run through my C-D and press in my wine press as you did. I just don't know if it is treated like a red wine or white wine.
I froze the fruit after prep, then bagged it in a 5-gallon paint strainer and ran it through the press. I reserved the pulp and then ran a second pressing. I tasted fruit after the second pressing to be sure all flavor had been extracted. On the pulp fermenting is tough with strawberry; many people I know who have done it have had clearing problems, even with bagged fruit. Since I do not like to artificially clear my wines, I try not to begin with musts that will make clearing problems for me.
4) When did you add the sugar and what volume did you calculate in figuring your sugar additions? or Did you just add and measure s.g until you reached 1.085?
My upper limit was 25 gallons must (150 pounds divided by 25 is 6 pounds/gal). The juice started at 1.030. I added water to make 16 gallons, then added invert sugar syrup and water to achieve 24 gallons at 1.085, using the hydrometer to measure. All that happened right away, before the chemicals were added and the must allowed to rest. I added yeast the next day.
5) What about acid additions. How much do you add in g/L. I only have tartaric. Will this be sufficient or do I need a blend?
Citric at 2 tsp/gal is recommended almost universally in strawberry wine recipes I have seern, so that is what I use.
6) You discuss an F-Pack. I understand it is a flavoring addition. What is it, where is it purchased and when it is added?
I don't f-pac. After stabilization, I use the juice as-is, adding sugar to it before putting it in the wine to backsweeten. I add more sweetness with invert sugar syrup after that, if needed. The very first gallon of juice will be the most pristine, which is why I saved and froze that gallon off the press. Just put it in a gallon plastic jug and leave room at the top for expansion (3 inches or so) and leave the cap on loosely til frozen. Thaw when you are ready to fix up the wine.
UNDER EDIT: I just read my earlier post that was going to simmer and reduce the juice this time. OK, I'll go with that, then! But I usually do the procedure I outlined here.
7) I understand you plan to backsweeten (and this may be part of an F-Pack). What level of residual sugar are you targeting and is it sweet, semi-sweet, ...etc?
I guess semi-sweet is closest. This wine will be sweet but not as sweet as a dessert wine. I generally do not use hydrometer readings but sweeten to taste. I am told and also have read here that 1.020 is a good hydrometer reading to try to achieve for a sweet wine, but I wouldn't know since I sweeten to taste. What I am tasting for is the fruit flavors, which will come back out as the wine gets sweeter. Once I taste full strawberries, I will stop right there. No need to make it taste like Boone's Farm. I use this same method with all my wines that get backsweetened.
8) How do you stabilize the wine?
When I rack, I add 1/4 tsp potassium metabisulfite per FIVE or SIX gallons at the second, fourth, sixth racking, etc. This usually works out great for me, since 90% of my wines are cleared after the third racking, so my fourth racking is usually my stabilization racking, and it is also right in order for more potassium metabisulfite.
After it clears, I rack into a clean carboy and use 1/4 tsp potassium metabisulfite per FIVE or SIX gallons, and 1/2 tsp potassium sorbate per ONE gallon. (I always capitalize and underline the gallons when I mention these measurements, because it is easy to think everything is by the gallon and make a big mistake. I did that as a beginner and I would hate to cause anyone else to do it.)
If the wine is not to be further manipulated, I wait 3-5 days to be sure it is still and proceed with the bottling process. If it is to be sweetened/enhanced, I do that at any time after stabilization that is convenient. I wait 3-5 days after enhancement to be sure no fermentation has restarted, then I go into the bottling procedure.
UNDER EDIT: Forgot to mention I used 2 pounds bananas, cut into 1-inch segments with the skins on, per gallon of must. Floated those in the must in a strainer bag after volume and SG had been set. The yeast loved them and they will add considerable body and mouthfeel, but will not add flavors. The bag was drained prior to racking to secondary.