What grapes are you growing??

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Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Dornfelder, 14 plants total, in their third year in the main vineyard.
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Two Cab Franc are on individual Lyre trellises, along with two Barbera and a Sangiovese (not pictured) that were added this year.
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I approve of your varietals, you should get some good grapes. My Cabernet is on VSP and my Barbera and Nebbiolo are getting their trellis installed today.
 
Growing Baco Noir, Isabella and Elvira in a marketing/presentation plot for a soon to be winery. These were all grown back in the late 1800's, the era in which my building was built as part of a glass factory.
 
Such a sad story I have. I started planting my vineyard (Chardonel, Traminett, Chambourcin, Concord and Thompson seedless) about 7 years ago. Fought the deer year after year and finally found a defense using a multi-layer electric fence. Then to my dismay the Japanese beetles attacked with a vengeance. At year 4 they defoliated 500+ vines (out of 680). Year 5 they took out the rest. I've given up grapes and replanted with Blackberries. Brewing my first batch of Blackberry wine. Only about 95 vines producing this year. Planted another 250 this spring. I'm getting a little older so it takes a little longer to plant in this Missouri clay and rock.

I'm in Missouri too. Year 2 with Traminette, Frontenac, Foch, Chardonel, Chambourcin, Norton, and Vidal Blanc. I got a couple hundred pounds this year off of two (of seven) rows. Beetles were BAD. They like blackberries too by the way. I had about 1/3 of my vines defoliated completely by the beetles but they recovered. You have to stay diligent about spraying.

Where in MO are you?
 
I'm in Missouri too. Year 2 with Traminette, Frontenac, Foch, Chardonel, Chambourcin, Norton, and Vidal Blanc. I got a couple hundred pounds this year off of two (of seven) rows. Beetles were BAD. They like blackberries too by the way. I had about 1/3 of my vines defoliated completely by the beetles but they recovered. You have to stay diligent about spraying.

Where in MO are you?
I am in Springfield. Also had (partial) beetle defoliation early in summer.

Are your Nortons ripe? What kind of numbers? My cheap refractometer tells me 18.6 Brix / 1.077 but they look and taste riper than that to me.
 
I am in Springfield. Also had (partial) beetle defoliation early in summer.

Are your Nortons ripe? What kind of numbers? My cheap refractometer tells me 18.6 Brix / 1.077 but they look and taste riper than that to me.
Your grapes are not ripe they should be more in the 21-26 brix range. At least to make decent wine.
 
I am in Springfield. Also had (partial) beetle defoliation early in summer.

Are your Nortons ripe? What kind of numbers? My cheap refractometer tells me 18.6 Brix / 1.077 but they look and taste riper than that to me.

Second year, I clipped all of them. The handful of clusters I missed are long gone due to the birds.
 
Your grapes are not ripe they should be more in the 21-26 brix range. At least to make decent wine.
Yes, I know my numbers are too low, but I had just bought this cheap refractometer and did not yet know if it could be trusted. Today I picked enough grapes to do more testing and verified the SG by refractometer is pretty close to my hydrometer. So now I know for sure.

Still, it would be good to know if there are any other experienced Norton-Cynthiana growers in SW Missouri or NW Arkansas and when they usually ripen in this area. And if anybody in this region are getting close to ripe.
 
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Yes, I know my numbers are too low, but I had just bought this cheap refractometer and did not yet know if it could be trusted. Today I picked enough grapes to do more testing and verified the SG by refractometer is pretty close to my hydrometer. So now I know for sure.

Still, it would be good to know if there are any other experienced Norton-Cynthiana growers in SW Missouri or NW Arkansas and when they usually ripen in this area. And if anybody in this region are getting close to ripe.
I'm near St. Louis and don't grow grapes, but few several friends that do. One has picked his, they always ripen early. Most others won't pick their Norton until Oct. Maybe even mid - Oct.
 
Just out of curiosity what grapes are you growing, and why. And how many do you have??

I have Barbera, Alicante Bouschet, Merlot,Cabernet Franc and Criolla Mediana 123 total vines not including criolla which I have about 63 vines now. I've been slowly planting more of it.

Can't wait for the vines to mature I will get a bunch or criolla this year from 40 year old vines. I expect it to make a decent light red wine from the little information avaliable. As it's not a very well documented grape with very low plantings in California. I will be the only person making a wine that's 100% Criolla Mediana in the State.

I can't wait for the Merlot and Cab to mature I intend to go ahead and do a blend of around 70% Cab and 30% Merlot when they mature. The Alicante and Barbera will be single varietal wines. Although I might adjust color with some of the Alicante.

Also I figure I'll also ask what other grapes would grow well in Sandy soil, I have a climate nearly identical where I live to the Rhone region. I've been thinking about adding some white wines. I should also add that my property is on hilltop that gets lots of sun and a good breeze.

:)
 
Just out of curiosity what grapes are you growing, and why. And how many do you have??

I have Barbera, Alicante Bouschet, Merlot,Cabernet Franc and Criolla Mediana 123 total vines not including criolla which I have about 63 vines now. I've been slowly planting more of it.

Can't wait for the vines to mature I will get a bunch or criolla this year from 40 year old vines. I expect it to make a decent light red wine from the little information avaliable. As it's not a very well documented grape with very low plantings in California. I will be the only person making a wine that's 100% Criolla Mediana in the State.

I can't wait for the Merlot and Cab to mature I intend to go ahead and do a blend of around 70% Cab and 30% Merlot when they mature. The Alicante and Barbera will be single varietal wines. Although I might adjust color with some of the Alicante.

Also I figure I'll also ask what other grapes would grow well in Sandy soil, I have a climate nearly identical where I live to the Rhone region. I've been thinking about adding some white wines. I should also add that my property is on hilltop that gets lots of sun and a good breeze.

:)
I just happened to see a grape plant for sale in the local seed shop. It was Baco Noir and was recommended as a hardy vine for our climate in Nova Scotia, Canada (zone 6). So it is just one plant but as a three year old it seems to be developing well. The berries are quite small
 

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I was looking at my vines that were planted next to my Criolla, and these came from the same area and noticed that 3 of the vines all had wickedly different grapes, so im thinking i might have something else mixed in, one on the end thats not pictured is very different.
 
Such a sad story I have. I started planting my vineyard (Chardonel, Traminett, Chambourcin, Concord and Thompson seedless) about 7 years ago. Fought the deer year after year and finally found a defense using a multi-layer electric fence. Then to my dismay the Japanese beetles attacked with a vengeance. At year 4 they defoliated 500+ vines (out of 680). Year 5 they took out the rest. I've given up grapes and replanted with Blackberries. Brewing my first batch of Blackberry wine. Only about 95 vines producing this year. Planted another 250 this spring. I'm getting a little older so it takes a little longer to plant in this Missouri clay and rock.

As for deer, I run a 7+ foot fence with electric on top. Slanting the fence out or in a little will discourage the deer from trying to jump it. They don't jump any thing they are unsure of and the crackling electric wire helps with that.

As for bugs, start spraying before you expect bug emergence. I keep a journal and record first observance of beetles each year so that I have a good idea of when to expect them. I use Garden Tech Sevin (non carbaryl based), which is devastating to JBs. You should have a spray program and adjust the mix depending on time of year. There are some .edu publications out that address emergence of various pests and diseases. They may not be 100% accurate for your location, but are a starting point that you can tweak with experience.
 
As for deer, I run a 7+ foot fence with electric on top. Slanting the fence out or in a little will discourage the deer from trying to jump it. They don't jump any thing they are unsure of and the crackling electric wire helps with that.

As for bugs, start spraying before you expect bug emergence. I keep a journal and record first observance of beetles each year so that I have a good idea of when to expect them. I use Garden Tech Sevin (non carbaryl based), which is devastating to JBs. You should have a spray program and adjust the mix depending on time of year. There are some .edu publications out that address emergence of various pests and diseases. They may not be 100% accurate for your location, but are a starting point that you can tweak with experience.
Thats smart, i use a variety of sprays including one made for grapes over the winter. And a spring spray to keep my vines clean year round.
 
I just happened to see a grape plant for sale in the local seed shop. It was Baco Noir and was recommended as a hardy vine for our climate in Nova Scotia, Canada (zone 6). So it is just one plant but as a three year old it seems to be developing well. The berries are quite small
Plant more vines!
 
Thats smart, i use a variety of sprays including one made for grapes over the winter. And a spring spray to keep my vines clean year round.

I adjusted my spray schedule this year by adding 2 new pesticides and an additional fungicide. I had been using a carbaryl based product, but I think the bugs have become resistant. The Garden Tech Sevin has proven to be quite effective. I point out Garden Tech as they are the only Liquid Sevin product I've found that has changed away from carbaryl. I've also added an Ortho product as an alternative to rotate in just to keep the bugs guessing. I've also tried Serenade this season and the jury is still out on it's effectiveness. I think if you lengthen the interval between sprays, it's benefit may become more noticeable. Since this has been a wet season and I live on fungus acres, I haven't given it a chance. I put all of this info out so folks can see how I've adapted to improve vine health and production.
 
I'm increasing my fence perimeter in order to accommodate next years new vines. I'll be trying out a new variety (for me) called Sheridan. I use different vines intermixed due to the America variety being partially self fertile. This is a recommended practice for this variety. I finished setting all the new corners (pics included), so now all I need now is drive so metal posts in and stretch more fence. Any volunteers?

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I adjusted my spray schedule this year by adding 2 new pesticides and an additional fungicide. I had been using a carbaryl based product, but I think the bugs have become resistant. The Garden Tech Sevin has proven to be quite effective. I point out Garden Tech as they are the only Liquid Sevin product I've found that has changed away from carbaryl. I've also added an Ortho product as an alternative to rotate in just to keep the bugs guessing. I've also tried Serenade this season and the jury is still out on it's effectiveness. I think if you lengthen the interval between sprays, it's benefit may become more noticeable. Since this has been a wet season and I live on fungus acres, I haven't given it a chance. I put all of this info out so folks can see how I've adapted to improve vine health and production.
I spoke to several guys at well known wineries and manufacturers of the sprays and was told that due to the way that most of the sprays work by literally just contact killing or disrupting aabugs body when they eat it. It's impossible to build any resistance.
 

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