# Lalvin 71B-1122 for an apple wine.



## m_lapaglia (Jun 4, 2008)

I want to use Lalvin 71B-1122 in this recipe The EC-1118 stops at about 18% ABV and the 1122 at 14%. It is supposed to allow more of the fruit aroma and flavor come through. 

Apple Wine 

Yields one gallon 

1 gallon Fresh Apple Cider 
1 tsp. Yeast Nutrient 
Sugar	(add sugar to get 1.090-1.095 sg. If juice is 1.065 you need about 10 oz to get to 1.095 sg) 
1 crushed Campden Tablet 
1.5 tsp. Acid Blend 
1 package Wine Yeast EC-1118 
.5 tsp. Pectic Enzyme 
.25 tsp. Grape Tannin 

It will top out at about 14% ABV. I am wondering if I hit the level where the alcohol stops the yeast can I sweeten it without adding a sulfite or whatever it is I would use to stop the fermentation. I don't plan to bottle carb at all. So If I add small amounts of additional sugar when it hits 0.998 sg and it doesn't ferment anymore in a week can I assume that its safe to sweeten to taste and bottle once it clears?

(did that make any sense?)


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## Sacalait (Jun 4, 2008)

I've never done that (guess I'm just chicken) because I'd be afraid that at some point after bottling it might crank up again. I've had my share of spills to clean up caused from blown corks. If you try it just place the bottled wine in a plastic storage bin just in case.


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## Luc (Jun 4, 2008)

Personally I think that 14% is far to high for an apple wine.

High alcohol and high acid together with the delicate
flavor of apple will give rocket fuel.

I make mine never above 11%

Luc


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## m_lapaglia (Jun 5, 2008)

Luc said:


> Personally I think that 14% is far to high for an apple wine.
> 
> High alcohol and high acid together with the delicate
> flavor of apple will give rocket fuel.
> ...



Valid point, Its why I asked here. 

So if I start at with an OG of about 1.075 and ferment to dry (0.997 ish) that should get me about 10.5%. I can stabilize instead of trying to be clever if I want to back sweeten.

Will the Lalvin 71B-1122 be a good choice as a yeast? Its supposed to leave more of the aroma and flavor of the fruit than the EC-1118. Lalvin says, "71B is known for making blush and semi-sweet wines and owes its success to its abilities to produce amyl ester (isoamyl acetate), reinforcing the aromatic profile of wines". As a newbie this sounds great and means very little. Id like to end up with an apple wine that retains the aroma and as much as the flavor as makes sense.

So 71B-1122, yes, no? K1V-1116? EC-1118?


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## cpfan (Jun 5, 2008)

For questions like this, I like to visit Jack Keller's yeast strains page.

http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/strains.asp

EC-1118 is the one recommended for apple.

Steve


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## m_lapaglia (Jun 6, 2008)

cpfan said:


> For questions like this, I like to visit Jack Keller's yeast strains page.
> 
> http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/strains.asp
> 
> ...



I guess I am looking for anyone here that has used the 71B. How did it fair. I know the only way to be sure is to try. I am just looking for info first.


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## moose-1110 (Jun 10, 2008)

I am new to wine making but I would just suggest trying both yeast and see what you like. As I keep seeing on these boards experiment is the best way to fine a wine that you like.


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## Wine Maker (Jun 10, 2008)

I made apple wine for the first time and used Cotes De Blanc. I am pleased with how the wine came out. Very subtle apple flavor, which is what I was aiming for. I don't know if a different yeast would have given me more apple flavor though. My initial brix was 14 so I brought it up to 21 to get about an 11% wine. I fermented dry and did not sweeten.


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## Benjo's Mom (Nov 2, 2008)

Wow, this was great timing. I went to the orchard and got 5 gallons of cider to make a batch of apple wine. I started it today and it had already started to ferment a bit in the jugs, but I still got an OG of 1.075. I will plan to ferment to .999-.997 for a dry wine. My questions were 1. (answered) what yeast to use? I was debating between the the Cotes de Blancs and Premier Cuvee. Guess it will be Cotes de Blancs and I will pitch it tomorrow. My other question 2. is, my tannin is bunching up in clots. Is this normal and what should I do about it? Thanks.


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## Sacalait (Nov 2, 2008)

m_lapaglia said:


> I guess I am looking for anyone here that has used the 71B. How did it fair. I know the only way to be sure is to try. I am just looking for info first.



I use 71B 80% of the time. Obviously I've been pleased with it. The wines I've made using it are Fig, Blackberry, Muscadine, Blueberry, A combination of the three, and Hibiscus.


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## stormryter (Oct 31, 2013)

This is from homebrewtalk .com 
"ALL apples naturally contain malic & ascorbic acids in varying amounts & ratios. And yes, your juice should ferment just fine, as long as there are no sorbates in it. Also, IF you want to reduce the malic acid in your end product, you can use the 71B-1122 (narbonne) yeast from Lalvin, it will metabolize some (not all) of the malic acid & turn it into alcohol/CO2. This will result in less tart-ness & make for a "softer" finish & mouthfeel. Hope you find this info useful. Regards, GF.
I am starting a batch with 71-B right now.


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## BernardSmith (Oct 31, 2013)

I use 71B in almost everything I make. I think it brings out the kind of fruitiness I like. From mazers I know they argue that if you use 71B you should not allow the wine to sit on the lees for any significant amount of time. I tend to rack every couple of months so that is not really a problem for me. One thing I do know is that apple wine made with this yeast is transformed after about a year (I think because the malic changes to lactic acid) and wine becomes incredibly smooth. To Sacalait's list I would add elderflower. Mind you I have only ever made elderflower using 71B and each time it has been very drinkable. I am planning on making a batch using QA-23 (Lavlin) which has recently been packaged for the home wine maker.


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## C2H6O (Mar 10, 2014)

I use 71B-1122 for Apple wine. The only thing with the yeast is that it tends to produce more H2S when it gets stressed. Need to keep your nose to the must during fermentation. I add Yeast Nutrient to the must (can you call Apple Juice must?) in increments. Usually starting at about 50-60% up front and adding as needed through out. The worst H2S problem I had was remedied with splash racking. The wine was smooth but I actually had to add some acid blend because the tartness you look for in an apple wine is dimished by the yeasts ability to ferment Malic Acid which is naturaly high in Apples.


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## GreginND (Mar 10, 2014)

Um, this thread is 6 years old. I suspect the original poster has already drank the wine by now. 

Good information, though. I used 71B this year for apple and it turned out great. Would never count on it to stop at 14%. My 25.5 brix MN 1200 fermented out completely with 71B.


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## C2H6O (Mar 13, 2014)

GreginND said:


> Um, this thread is 6 years old. I suspect the original poster has already drank the wine by now.
> 
> Good information, though. I used 71B this year for apple and it turned out great. Would never count on it to stop at 14%. My 25.5 brix MN 1200 fermented out completely with 71B.



Yeah never hurts... 


Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using Wine Making mobile app


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## jswordy (Mar 13, 2014)

I always use 71B1122 for apple. It works well. It makes a good dry apple wine if you can wait a year or so to age it. I usually back sweeten mine. If you do, it is smart to use potassium sorbate to prevent refermenttation.

The alternative is to naturally kill the yeast off by bulk aging it for a long period - a year or more - then back sweeten, then test for refermentation and bottle, and age it another several months. If I was going bulk age it a year, I'd just bottle it dry.


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