# too much sulfite



## MikeMaryAnn (Oct 5, 2010)

Big mistake. I misread the label on the potasium metabisulfite and I added 1/4 teaspoon per gallon instead of 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons. Can I save the must? I have read that agressive racking (allowing the must to splash into another carboy) can reduce the sulfite level but can it remove enough to make a difference in this case?


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## mxsteve625 (Oct 5, 2010)

I'm sure someone on here can tell you how to save this depending on what stage you are at.


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## MikeMaryAnn (Oct 5, 2010)

Good point. I added the sulfite on Sunday evening and the hydrated yeast on Monday evening. After 24 hours there isn't much action which is when I discovered the error.


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## grapeman (Oct 5, 2010)

You applied approximately 5 times the needed concentration. That is why no fermentation. You need to stir the heck out of it several times a day. Keep it in a primary bucket covered with a lid loosely. Do not snap it down and no airlock. Just place a towel over the top of the lid to keep insects out. By stirrin it like this for a day or two, the levels will be reduced greatly. For best chances of a sucessful fermentation starting, make up a starter solution and use that to begin fermentation. For help in making one, do a quick search on the topic here and you will find the info needed. Good luck, I'm sure you can save it!


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## Runningwolf (Oct 5, 2010)

I agree with everything Grapeman said and it can be saved. Welcome to the forum. How about going to our introductions thread and tell us a bit about you. We love people from PA. on this site as there is plenty of us here. LOL


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## Wade E (Oct 5, 2010)

I agree you will have to stir the snot out of it for a few days so keeping it cool during this period would be a good idea to keep it good. I would also make a good starter and onc its going good then add approx. 1/4 theb size your starter is of the must to acclimate the yeast to the higher level of S02. If and when thats gets going again then add some more of the must. Keep doing that until your starter has atleast tripled in size and then add it to your must that should be at about 75* when doing this.


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## djrockinsteve (Oct 5, 2010)

You need to understand that half of the sulfite you added will remain in your wine. Sulfite atoms split into half when added to a liquid. The one half remains while the other half turns to free sulfites. The free sulfites cling to the oxygen atoms and remove them as vapor.

You may want to even rack it to get the free sulfites out quicker. I would definitely check your sulfites at each stage so you don't add too much when all is said and done.

Don't give up. Keep trying.


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## robie (Oct 6, 2010)

Good advice!
If fermentation starts and finishes OK, when it is done, I would also plan to bulk age this wine and doing it for well over a year (which is a good thing, anyway).

Normally during bulk aging, one will add about 1/4 teaspoon of sulfate every three months. Based on that, you already have added enough sulfate for about 18 to 21 months of bulk aging. Of course a lot of what you added by mistake will have been used up during stirring and fermentation and will not be carried onto bulk aging.

If I were you, during bulk aging I would buy myself a good sulfate testing kit and test the wine every 3 months or so, rather than arbitrarily adding 1/4 teaspoon of sulfate. At some point the levels will equal out, so you don't want the wine to spoil.

This raises an interesting question for me - If fermentation does start and end properly, to stabilize, will MikeMary still need to add sulfites along with sorbate?

Maybe if they bulk age, they can get by with adding only the sorbate.


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## JohnT (Oct 6, 2010)

Try this...

Splash it around a bit, then leave the must covered only by a piece of plastic sheet. Wait several hours, then add your yeast.


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## MikeMaryAnn (Oct 7, 2010)

*another question*

Thanks for all the advice. After reading all the ideas here and a few other websites my plan was to get two 5 gallon buckets and start pouring the must back and forth to areate it as much as possible and then add the starter solution. BUT when I got home from work today it has started to ferment pretty vigorously. Now I'm wondering if I should still slosh it back and forth or just let it ferment and then plan on aging for quite a while. What do you think?


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## Wade E (Oct 7, 2010)

If its going then leave it alone with the exception of punching down any cap or stirring it a little to get some 02 to your yeast. Congrats on getting this started as that was a lot of sulfite. Just goes to show you that nothing should be considered losty until all avenues have been taken with no luck.


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## mrmurrr (Oct 7, 2010)

*similar concern*

I have 11 gallons of Zin must from my crush. Per the book 'from Vines to Wines' he recommends using 1 Campden tablet per gallon (I have a PH of 3.4, Brix 25.2) to get 50ppm. After adding, I read the label which stated 'ea tablet contains 150ppm total SO2'. Did I add 3 times the amount I needed? I keep a warming blanket around a 20 gal tub & after 2 days it's fermenting feverishly. All help is appreciated.


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## Wade E (Oct 7, 2010)

There are some campden tablets out there that are high potency which is just another reason I dont use campden tablets. Do your self a favor and get the powder, its cheaper and easier as its already crushed. Luckily you are already going so dont worry about it but if you added 11 tablets you were way high.


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## RRRwine (Oct 8, 2010)

I did something similar to a batch of white wine and was told the same advice about stiring the heck out of it and then starting a small batch of healthy yeast. This has worked for me and by tonight the whole 4 gallons should be fermenting. To stir it up I actually rigged my stiring paddle to the drill, strapped the drill to a chair, and spun the stuff for like 30 minutes 2 nights in a row.

Thanks for the advise on monitoring it as it ages. 

I would have hated to lose this one as it was the first time my daughter joined me in actually picking these grapes.


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## winemaker_3352 (Oct 8, 2010)

Wade E said:


> There are some campden tablets out there that are high potency which is just another reason I dont use campden tablets. Do your self a favor and get the powder, its cheaper and easier as its already crushed. Luckily you are already going so dont worry about it but if you added 11 tablets you were way high.



I have to agree - i have used both - the powder is so much easier to use, measure, and dissolve.


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