# Yeast Amount¿



## mjdtexan (Feb 23, 2009)

Yeast amount. I've searched and not found the answer. I know someone will probably post up a link from their search. Maybe I am not searching correctly.


Anyway, the recipes always say to throw in the yeast but never how much yeast. Those packets you get (lalvin/red star), do they do six gallon batches or 1 gallon batches?


I know its probably a silly question to you guys but it has me scratching my head.


BTW, my kit is destined for my doorstep wednesday.


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## grapeman (Feb 23, 2009)

mjdtexan said:


> Yeast amount. I've searched and not found the answer. I know someone will probably post up a link from their search. Maybe I am not searching correctly.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the recipes always say to throw in the yeast but never how much yeast. Those packets you get (lalvin/red star), do they do six gallon batches or 1 gallon batches?
> ...




Yes, they do either. You may wish to split the pack between at least a couple gallon batches, but you can use the whole thing if you want. It isn't expensive. Also the packets are listed for 5 gallons, but they do fine with 6.


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## mjdtexan (Feb 23, 2009)

appleman said:


> mjdtexan said:
> 
> 
> > Yeast amount. I've searched and not found the answer. I know someone will probably post up a link from their search. Maybe I am not searching correctly.
> ...




Thank You. You are right, they are cheap enough. Thats a little weird to me, Everything else seems to be of exacting measurements but not the yeast. How come¿


&lt;---------------still scratching head


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## Wade E (Feb 23, 2009)

Yeast will multiply by the thousands or even millions so giving an exact amount is useless as the colony growth will truly never be known.


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## admiral (Feb 23, 2009)

Yeast... they are a living thing and they have one purpose in life... to give us pleasure. They live until they use up all the nutrient or die in their own...dare I say it...excrement...alcohol.


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## suprasteve (Feb 23, 2009)

if you throw in the whole packet instead of, say 1/4 of a packet, it should theoretically take 2 more reproduction cycles for the 1/4 to reach the same size colony as the full, how that fits in with the amount of time, the theoretical versus actual reproduction, and presence of things that inhibit its growth (sorbates, sulfides) is up for debate. Basically it should take a little more time for the fermentation to get going with less yeast but other things factor into that


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## Wade E (Feb 23, 2009)

Ive noticed that when i add more yeast then called for the fermentation starts way faster.


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## mjdtexan (Feb 24, 2009)

wade said:


> Ive noticed that when i add more yeast then called for the fermentation starts way faster.




So, would a watermelon wine benifit from that?


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## JWMINNESOTA (Feb 24, 2009)

Yes, watermelon would very much benefit from that. Due to the potential for watermelon to spoil before it can be fermented, I would suggest making a starter, to get the highest colony count you can, and fermentation underway as quick as possible. A starter is simply a mixture of sugar and nutrients, usually with a little juice similar to what your must will be. You can make it a few days before pitching, letting the yeast multiply and the greater numbers will result in a stronger and faster start to the ferment. I use one yeast packet,1/4 tsp of nutrient 2 tsp sugar, and approx a pint of juice to make mine.


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## mjdtexan (Feb 24, 2009)

JWMINNESOTA said:


> Yes, watermelon would very much benefit from that. Due to the potential for watermelon to spoil before it can be fermented, I would suggest making a starter, to get the highest colony count you can, and fermentation underway as quick as possible. A starter is simply a mixture of sugar and nutrients, usually with a little juice similar to what your must will be. You can make it a few days before pitching, letting the yeast multiply and the greater numbers will result in a stronger and faster start to the ferment. I use one yeast packet,1/4 tsp of nutrient 2 tsp sugar, and approx a pint of juice to make mine.




Thanks, what yeast are you using?




Another general question, can you keep a yeast strain or colony going?


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## smurfe (Feb 24, 2009)

The time you pitch the yeast till fermentation starts is called the lag time. The shorter the lag time the better in fermentation. The higher the yeast count the shorter the lag time.If you use a whole packet in just a gallon you may have faster fermentation than for 6 gallons but that is OK. Remember to that the dry yeasts in packets aren't always cared for in the best manner. The cells can die off in the packet pretty quick. Making a starter as advised in another post is always a good option and will decrease that lag time even more. Necessary? No. Beneficial? Yup.


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## Wade E (Feb 24, 2009)

For that watermelon wine I would also get that yeast starter going well and and do a coo, ferment to try and keep it from spoiling.


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## pelican (Feb 24, 2009)

mjdtexan said:


> Another general question, can you keep a yeast strain or colony going?




You can - and I've seen description of the method (can't recall where...) but it's basically like keeping a sourdough starter going - use a little, add some more food &amp; fluid back into keep the colony multiplying.

On the other hand, I've also read (or imagine... can't recall which) that it's also a bit like any other multigenerational biologic process -- the offspring resemble the parents but aren't quite exactly the same. A few hundred yeast generations later, which goes really quick with yeast, will you still have a pure strain? Will the EC-1118 you start with still be mostly EC-1118 or a yeasty relative (mutant! Yikes!)

I've toyed with the idea myself, but ... the packets are really pretty cheap and it's the yeast that makes the wine. Can't bring myself to risk the whole end result by tinkering with the little beasties that do the fermenting. At least not yet. 

I'll take a chance planting my open pollinated squash's seeds -- and see what grows -- but with my wine, I'd rather have the deck stacked in my favor and use fresh yeast.

Your other question though about 1 packet for 1 gallon or for 6... I do split the packet between more than one 1-gallon batch at times though. I try to use 1 tsp for a gallon, and in that case I will do a starter to get the yeast going.


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## mjdtexan (Feb 25, 2009)

pelican said:


> I'll take a chance planting my open pollinated squash's seeds -- and see what grows --




Funny you say that. I am planting squash today, not seeds though. Seedlings. 


Yeah, yeast does seem fairly cheap to buy.


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## grapeman (Feb 25, 2009)

Even though we have a limited growing season here in upstate New York, I prefer to plant my curcurbits (cukes, squash, melons, etc) from seed. Because they have a relatively small delicate root system they are easily damaged by transplanting, even when in normal 6-pack type containers. It only takes about 2-3 weeks to get them to a marketable vine size in the greenhouses. I prefer to wait until the soil has warmed sufficiently for good germination and growth and then plant the seeds. They get off to a quick start and often outgrow the potted vine seedlings. I will occasionally plant a few to get a few early started cukes although the crop is much less than seeded cukes would yield.


I can only dream of planting anything outside right now. Have fun!


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## mjdtexan (Feb 25, 2009)

appleman said:


> Even though we have a limited growing season here in upstate New York, I prefer to plant my curcurbits (cukes, squash, melons, etc) from seed. Because they have a relatively small delicate root system they are easily damaged by transplanting, even when in normal 6-pack type containers. It only takes about 2-3 weeks to get them to a marketable vine size in the greenhouses. I prefer to wait until the soil has warmed sufficiently for good germination and growth and then plant the seeds. They get off to a quick start and often outgrow the potted vine seedlings. I will occasionally plant a few to get a few early started cukes although the crop is much less than seeded cukes would yield.
> 
> 
> I can only dream of planting anything outside right now. Have fun!




We have the long growing season, you guys have the awesome colors during fall.


I will plant yellow meated and orange meated watermelons from seed in mid March(its the whole reason I got interested in wine). Both varities are high surgar.


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## pelican (Feb 25, 2009)

mjdtexan said:


> Funny you say that. I am planting squash today, not seeds though. Seedlings.








PLANTING SEEDLINGS!!!



It's the Endless Winter up here!
<a href="http://%20www.finevinewines.com//Wiz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7471" target="_blank">
http://www.finevinewines.com//Wiz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7471</a>


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## mjdtexan (Feb 26, 2009)

pelican said:


> mjdtexan said:
> 
> 
> > Funny you say that. I am planting squash today, not seeds though. Seedlings.
> ...


Linky no worky


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## Betsyb (Jun 11, 2011)

Maybe you can help me. I am trying a Twisted Mist marguerita mix and it came with 2 packages of yeast. I only added one and fermentation is bubbling away. I have only made wine kits so 2 packages seemed excessive. Any idea if they just put an extra pack in the kit? I also have 2 F-packs to add at the end when I bottle. I am trying to contact wine expert directly and through my home brew store.


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## vcasey (Jun 11, 2011)

Betsyb said:


> Maybe you can help me. I am trying a Twisted Mist marguerita mix and it came with 2 packages of yeast. I only added one and fermentation is bubbling away. I have only made wine kits so 2 packages seemed excessive. Any idea if they just put an extra pack in the kit? I also have 2 F-packs to add at the end when I bottle. I am trying to contact wine expert directly and through my home brew store.



Did you buy the kit with both lime &amp; strawberry? That may be why you have 2 fpacs.. WE put out some kits that you can have 3 gallons each of both. As far as the yeast is concerned 1 is fine. Save the other just in case you need it for another wine.


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