# Repairing a wine cooler



## jgmann67 (Mar 22, 2018)

A friend has a 200+ bottle wine cooler that he want out of his house. The cooling unit doesn’t work - not sure if the compressor is shot or it just needs Freon. 

I’m grabbing a pick up truck this weekend and am going to grab it. Worst case, it’s a 200+ bottle wine rack. I can always use more storage. 

What would it cost just to replace the cooling unit and just be done with it?

Has anyone done maintenance on one of these? What typically goes wrong?


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## Johnd (Mar 22, 2018)

jgmann67 said:


> A friend has a 200+ bottle wine cooler that he want out of his house. The cooling unit doesn’t work - not sure if the compressor is shot or it just needs Freon.
> 
> I’m grabbing a pick up truck this weekend and am going to grab it. Worst case, it’s a 200+ bottle wine rack. I can always use more storage.
> 
> ...



I bought a used one, about the same size, pretty inexpensively, as it wasn’t cooling. Refrigeration tech spent a couple hours to find and repair a pinhole and recharge the unit. Worked like a charm til I sold it. 

It’s hard to say what typically goes wrong, it just needs to be evaluated to see what’s not operating properly.


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## AkTom (Mar 23, 2018)

To repair a wine cooler... make sure it’s done fermenting, degas and let it age. Don’t be too hasty in bottling. You may need a little acid blend, but without your recipe and process, we’lol have to wait for someone more experienced to come along...
Cheers


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## JohnT (Mar 23, 2018)

Hey,

When it comes to wine coolers, you need to call the experts...


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## jgmann67 (Mar 23, 2018)

JohnT said:


> Hey,
> 
> When it comes to wine coolers, you need to call the experts...



Old Bartles & Jaymes... the cooler cooler, made in the cooler!


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## mainshipfred (Mar 23, 2018)

Please bring it upright. I bought an old old 70 bottle one for $25.00 and thought I had a steal. The owner had it plugged it and it worked just fine. I laid it on it's side to bring it back and it never worked again. Even if there is a problem don't make if worse by laying it on it's side. I've read it has something to do with the oils leaving the compressor.


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## AkTom (Mar 23, 2018)

You definitely need to let them sit upright for several hours if it’s been laid down. Typically it’s not an issue as long as you remember to let the oil drain back.


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## meadmaker1 (Mar 23, 2018)

I am a refigeration repair guy if it has been laid down it may or may not benifit from being stood back up if liquid gets trapped in the compressor you need serious repair work.
If it only needs refrigerant (freon has been unavailable for years) its probably r134a but I doubt therthere are service ports, so you will need to add them. If it has service ports its easy Walmart sells the car boost kits and you should be able to find adaptors on line.
Lets talk diagnosis Access the compressor. Turn it as cold as it goes. Then plug it in ,does the compessor run, if yes the smaller line coming from the compressor shoud get very warm or hot the other should get cold. If no check for voltage to compressor if yes let me know i ll he you check the coptessor. If no follow wires to the controls you msy be able to bypass the contols it could be a failed thermostat. I check in nearly every day keep me posted. Check the fan also and clean the condensing coil. This is an equal and opposite reactipn machine if it cant expell the hot it wont make cold .


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## sour_grapes (Mar 25, 2018)

I was hoping Meadmaker would weigh in! Not disappointed.


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## jgmann67 (May 28, 2018)

So I got the unit home. The cooler was remove before we loaded. 

Had to take it apart and put it back together in the basement. It was too big. 

So we’re back to the original problem. Got the unit still out of the cabinet. I have a blog thread from somewhere that suggest that I take it to an hvac guy to check for leaks and put a valve on it so I can recharge it myself when needed. 


It’s supposed to fit 500 bottles. But I think 200 +\- 50 is as good as this gets.


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## jgmann67 (May 28, 2018)

jgmann67 said:


> So I got the unit home. The cooler was remove before we loaded.
> 
> Had to take it apart and put it back together in the basement. It was too big.
> 
> ...


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## ceeaton (May 28, 2018)

Just keep the dogs from taking a wide turn when they get to the bottom of the stairs, or you might find a woosie dog to the right of the unit!


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## meadmaker1 (May 28, 2018)

jgmann67 said:


> So I got the unit home. The cooler was remove before we loaded.
> 
> Had to take it apart and put it back together in the basement. It was too big.
> 
> So we’re back to the original problem. Got the unit still out of the cabinet. I have a blog thread from somewhere that suggest that I take it to an hvac guy to check for leaks and put a valve on it so I can recharge it myself when needed. View attachment 48974


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## meadmaker1 (May 28, 2018)

Hmmmm where's my text.

I am an hvac guy
Where are you in the world
Pressure taps are easy with simple tools
What refrigerant is listed on it.


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## jgmann67 (May 29, 2018)

meadmaker1 said:


> Hmmmm where's my text.
> 
> I am an hvac guy
> Where are you in the world
> ...



Yep - I went back in the thread and reread your post. Sorry. 

I'm in Central PA, near Harrisburg. Refrigerant is R134a.


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## meadmaker1 (May 29, 2018)

Look up.
Supco piercing valve

You can add these yourself.
I can tell you where if you post a picture.
Wall Mart has r134a.
You will need a hose adapter but these can be made easily.


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## jgmann67 (May 29, 2018)

meadmaker1 said:


> Look up.
> Supco piercing valve
> 
> You can add these yourself.
> ...



Cool. A summer project.


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## Burton Kent (May 29, 2018)

jgmann67 said:


> So I got the unit home. The cooler was remove before we loaded.
> 
> Had to take it apart and put it back together in the basement. It was too big.
> 
> ...



I have one that I got off Craigslist. The drawers are probably quite a bit longer than a wine bottle to let you place them alternating forward and backwards, with the necks in the middle of the shelves.


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## sour_grapes (May 29, 2018)

jgmann67 said:


> Cool. A summer project.



Or, if I may revise your punctuation: "Cool: A summer project."


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## mainshipfred (May 29, 2018)

sour_grapes said:


> Or, if I may revise your punctuation: "Cool: A summer project."



And you're the one asking US if it were leafs or leaves.


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## sour_grapes (May 29, 2018)

mainshipfred said:


> And you're the one asking US if it were leafs or leaves.



For the record, I was not saying there was anything wrong with his punctuation! I just noted that, with a simple change, it casts a whole new shade onto his meaning!


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## mainshipfred (May 29, 2018)

sour_grapes said:


> For the record, I was not saying there was anything wrong with his punctuation! I just noted that, with a simple change, it casts a whole new shade onto his meaning!



Just messing with you. You are the goto for spelling and grammer checks.


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## sour_grapes (May 29, 2018)

mainshipfred said:


> Just messing with you. You are the goto for spelling and grammer checks.



Thank you! 

Now, just to keep you compensated for your patronage: "go-to" and "grammar."


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## jgmann67 (May 29, 2018)

meadmaker1 said:


> Look up.
> Supco piercing valve
> 
> You can add these yourself.
> ...



I looked up Supco Piercing Valve and interestingly, there's more than one. There's the Supco Bullet Piercing Valve, Silver; and the Supco BPV31. Both really cheap. 

Next time I can sit down and fiddle, I'm going to pull the covers off the cooling unit and take some pictures.


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## mainshipfred (May 29, 2018)

jgmann67 said:


> I looked up Supco Piercing Valve and interestingly, there's more than one. There's the Supco Bullet Piercing Valve, Silver; and the Supco BPV31. Both really cheap.
> 
> Next time I can sit down and fiddle, I'm going to pull the covers off the cooling unit and take some pictures.



Hate to ask a silly question but does the compressor run.


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## jgmann67 (May 29, 2018)

mainshipfred said:


> Hate to ask a silly question but does the compressor run.



Not silly. I'm told yes. But, I haven't touched it since I brought it home.


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## meadmaker1 (May 29, 2018)

The unit very likely isn't flat or low on charge but without service ports who knows?
And a low pressure switch could prevent it from running.


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## winojoe (May 30, 2018)

You got it meadmaker. Here is my two cents: If it is not an electrical issue (and we all cross our fingers that it is an electrical issue) then the only way to really diagnose the problem is to get a set of manifold gauges on it. Unfortunately, this involves the use of piercing valves in order to get into the system. After diagnosing the problem, recover the refrigerant (if there is any left), and then install service ports to replace the piercing valves. Fix the problem (leak, compressor, etc.) and then evacuate the system before recharging it. I perform a triple evacuation trying to go down to 400 microns each time. This ensures that the system is completely cleared and no leaks. Pulling a deep vacuum like that will not happen if there is even the slightest leak. These type of refrigerators use a capillary tube for their metering device and are considered to be "critically charged". So, you should be able to charge it by adding the recommended amount of refrigerant. However, to do the job properly requires monitoring the "superheat" while charging. I'm sure there are some youtube videos out there demonstrating this technique.


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## meadmaker1 (May 30, 2018)

I dont go to 400 each time. 
3500 mics
1500 mics 
Breaking vacuum with nitrogen each time
500 or less mics. And hold below 1000 mics for 10 min.
The unit should have factory charge info but I prsonaly like a liquid line site glass on this equipment.
Charge till I get a slow bubble.
Tools and understanding of circuts will be a big deal repairing this


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## jgmann67 (May 30, 2018)

This is sounding less like something I should do myself, and more like something I should give to an HVAC guy to fix.


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## winojoe (May 30, 2018)

Yeah, unless it is just and electrical problem (Thermostat, wiring, etc.) the job does require some special equipment like a manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, etc.

Air Conditioning and Refrigeration systems shod never need to be recharged. If a system needs to be charged, then there is a leak somewhere.


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## mainshipfred (May 30, 2018)

jgmann67 said:


> This is sounding less like something I should do myself, and more like something I should give to an HVAC guy to fix.



I was hoping you were going to say that. I wouldn't touch it either.


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## mainshipfred (May 30, 2018)

@meadmaker1 and @winojoe, don't laugh at me but I have an old AC unit on my boat with a small leak. I have a canister of R22 and all I do is hook up an amp meter turn on the unit and add freon until I reach the proper amps. It will last 4 or 5 months. I have a guage but have no idea how to use it. I just use one of the leads to fill the unit.


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## winojoe (May 30, 2018)

I had that problem on my home a/c unit. Had to recharge each year for three years.

The most common leak problem is with the schrader valve seal. Try this, get a a schrader valve cap with an integrated O-ring. I did this for my home a/c unit and it has not required a new charge for 5 years now (knock-on-wood). I have a full can of R-22 and will replace the a/c unit when that can is empty. So far I have not needed to tap into it.


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## meadmaker1 (May 30, 2018)

R 22. Rule of thumb is charge until the suction line is beer can cold.
If it freezes up it's low. Or filter is dirty. 
If it over you loose capacity. 
Super heat or sub cool is the correct way but I'm not teaching that on this forum.


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## mainshipfred (Jun 10, 2018)

Don't want to crash this thread but many HVAC experienced folks here. My boat AC is a 16,000 btuh water cooled which is the standard size for boats. For the most part it works fine but occasionally if it's running for a long time it stops blowing cold air. All I have to is shut it off for 1-2 minutes and it work fine again. It's not icing up and the coils appear to be clean. Any ideas, My initial reaction is its not pumping enough water to cool properly.


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## meadmaker1 (Jun 10, 2018)

Based on you post about charging.
It may be over charged the amps listed are usually higher than reality operation. 
You compressor may be opening it's internal limit. Verify with amp draw. Could also be high pressure lock out. This would equalize quickly once stopped. What kind of compressor? 
Your previous comments and human nature would have me exploring over charged.


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## mainshipfred (Jun 10, 2018)

meadmaker1 said:


> Based on you post about charging.
> It may be over charged the amps listed are usually higher than reality operation.
> You compressor may be opening it's internal limit. Verify with amp draw. Could also be high pressure lock out. This would equalize quickly once stopped. What kind of compressor?
> Your previous comments and human nature would have me exploring over charged.



Thank you, I'll try pulling some charge. I imagine I should use running amps and not full load amps and I don't know what kind of compressor. The link below is similar to what I have except it's an older 120 volt R22 unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-16...015922&hash=item56ad7238a7:g:utIAAOSwfN5a0Mgs


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## meadmaker1 (Jun 10, 2018)

Add till the suction line just starts to sweet be little at a time. 
Beer can cold. 
Most units run at about 2/3 listed amps. If I see one drawing listed amps I give my, time to label a coffee can New A/C fund. 
Tell me about the water your sitting in, what's the inside of the water coil look like. Can you bypass it and run a demineralizing solution through it.


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## mainshipfred (Jun 10, 2018)

meadmaker1 said:


> Add till the suction line just starts to sweet be little at a time.
> Beer can cold.
> Most units run at about 2/3 listed amps. If I see one drawing listed amps I give my, time to label a coffee can New A/C fund.
> Tell me about the water your sitting in, what's the inside of the water coil look like. Can you bypass it and run a demineralizing solution through it.



It's river water which goes through a filter. The evaporator line runs inside the water cooling coil. Just pumps water from the river and back out again.


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## meadmaker1 (Jun 10, 2018)

Similar to goethermal/ground source units. In those that use pump and dump water ,which is what you have, they can get builp up inside.


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## mainshipfred (Jun 10, 2018)

meadmaker1 said:


> Similar to goethermal/ground source units. In those that use pump and dump water ,which is what you have, they can get builp up inside.



I'll check that as well


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