# Go-Ferm / Fermaid K



## GrantLee63

Although not included with any kits, nor even mentioned in the instructions that come with kits, I always use these products when rehydrating my yeast. Must be due to the fact I started with meads, and have made more than a few high-gravity (1.125+) batches and have NEVER had any issues with fermentations. Here is some information that very clearly demonstrates the 'hows' and 'whys' relative to these nutrients:

*
A Recommended Guide to Yeast Nutrient dosages: *
The following is a recommended nutrient schedule based on the latest research from Lallemand. It has been conceived to ensure the maximum viability of yeast throughout the entire course of a fermentation, and it is comprised of two, separate additions: "*Go Ferm*", and "*Fermaid-K*". 
-The first nutrient addition is done by adding "*Go Ferm*" directly into the water used to hydrate the yeast. This represents a new approach and is important because by making this first nutrient dosage outside of the must, you are able to eliminate potential problems early-on: namely the binding-up of certain nutrients by SO2 (thus making them unavailable to the yeast), and the possible, partial depletion of the nutrient addition due to the early feeding of other organisms that may have gotten into the must before the yeast have had a chance to reach the cell-density needed to begin the fermentation (again, lowering the level of nutrients ultimately available to the yeast). It is this "Go Ferm" addition, therefore, that will ensure that the yeast will receive the whole of the nutrient addition without any interference, -and this in turn translates to the start of a clean and healthy fermentation. 
-However, your work is not done…As the fermentation progresses, the must becomes a more difficult place to work in for the yeast: the alcohol level starts to rise (slowly becoming more and more toxic) and all of the nutrients that were present at the beginning of the fermentation start to become depleted. "*Fermaid-K*" is then used at 1/3 sugar depletion (usually an 8-10 brix drop) so that the nutrients required by the yeast to maintain a healthy metabolism all the way through to the end of fermentation are available to them before they become stressed and you start to see signs of a stuck or sluggish fermentation (not to mention excessive VA and Hydrogen-Sulphide production!). 
*It may be helpful to think of the following analogy: "*Go Ferm*" is the complete breakfast that is eaten on the morning of the 20-mile race, and "*Fermaid-K*" is the energy bars and sports drinks that are consumed at the mid-way point to help get you to the finish line! *
Dosage- Rates: *
"*Go Ferm": Rate is 1.25 grams of "Go Ferm" / 1 gram of yeast / 17mls of water. *
"*Fermaid-K*"*: Rate is 1 gram per 1 gallon of must. 
How to Hydrate Dry Wine Yeast using *"*Go Ferm*" *(A Recommended Nutrient *Regimen)*: 
1) *Using clean water (filtered or distilled is best), calculate the amount needed and heat it to *110 *degrees F (43 degree C). *
2) *Add the required amount of "Go Ferm" to the heated water. Mix it in well so that there are no clumps, and let it stand until the temp of the mixture falls to *102 degrees F *(39 degrees C). *
3) *Add the required amount of yeast to the mixture. Stir it to break-up any clumps and wait 15-30 minutes. *
4) *At this point you will want to add a portion of the must/juice into the yeast mixture that is ½ to equal the volume of the yeast starter. This helps the yeast become accustomed to the pH, TA%, brix level (sugar), and the temperature of the must they will ultimately be fermenting, and is done to avoid shocking them. *
5) *After a 10-15 minute wait, the yeast should now be ready introduce into the must! *
6) **Once the fermentation is underway, it is highly recommended to add "Fermaid-K" at a rate of 1 gram per gallon at 1/3 sugar depletion (after an 8-10 brix drop). *
Example of volumes needed: *
-Say you are inoculating 6 gallons of must. This would mean that you would be using: *
A) *6 grams of yeast *
B) *7.5 grams of "Go Ferm" *
C) *100mls of water *
D) *50-100mls of must/juice *


E) *6 grams of "Fermaid-K" at 1/3 sugar depletion 




Hope you find this helpful,

- GL63


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## Tom

Good article but, you are going into adangerous area @ 102° before adding yeast.I would make sure its 90° max before adding yeast just in case.....


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## smurfe

If I am re-hydrating a dry yeast, 104º F is the temp I always use. It is what is posted on the yeast packets that I have re-hydrated. Now for making a starter for liquid yeasts, I try to have my starter temp at below 80º F before I pitch the yeast. 




http://www.lalvinyeast.com/strains.asp


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## GrantLee63

smurfe said:


> If I am re-hydrating a dry yeast, 104º F is the temp I always use.




Me too !


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## montyfox

I'm getting ready to start a 3 gallon batch of straight mead using orange blossom honey. I have the Fermaid-K but have never heard of Go Ferm. How important is this to the mead? Should I use some energizer when rehydrating the yeast?


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## smurfe

It is not absolutely required in a mead but it sure don't hurt. Many time you will read a recipe and it says add yeast nutrient or energizer. More time than not the person who wrote that recipe does that for EVERY wine they make so it is an automatic thing and then many think the HAVE to use it. You do not but like I said, certain wines such as meads or a blueberry sure will benefit from the use to get the fermentation kick started. I have made mead with out it and it is slow to get started.


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## JimCook

Montyfox,


Think of Fermaid-K as Yeast Nutrient and Go-Ferm as Yeast Energizer. They just happen to be brand names of those types of chemical additions. Go-Ferm does not contain any nitrogen (commonly found as DAP) because the cell walls of the yeast are not in balance to be able to handle the nitrogen when they are first hydrating. The Fermaid-K does have nitrogen to help boost those little buggers once they're going all active like. 


And still, those yeast are tough, as people mix nutrient and energizer all the time when first pitching the yeast. Follow Smurfe's advice and you'll be solid. 


- Jim


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## ras1

montyfox said:


> I'm getting ready to start a 3 gallon batch of straight mead using orange blossom honey. I have the Fermaid-K but have never heard of Go Ferm. How important is this to the mead? Should I use some energizer when rehydrating the yeast?




I started a batch of Tupelo traditional mead Feb 15th.

I ended up using Vitilevure 58W3. I used GoFerm for re-hydration.

6 hour later it was bubbling.

I had to put it in a cooler to slow it down, I got the outside temp (air) to 63.


I did a small DAP addition at the first sign of fermentation and then the Fermaid-K feeding at 1/3 sugar depletion and it finished primary about a week ago.

I had a small sample at racking, it tasted amazing at that point. It may be the best primary Mead fermentation I've ever done. Typically the Meads I've done in the past have taken a real long time to even be close to palatable, but this tasted good at 1 month. 

Bear in mind, I age everything I make for years so this was really something I have not experienced in the past and did not expect.


I use Go-Ferm on all my wine and all my mead..I love this stuff.


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