# method to kill trees



## treesaver (Jun 5, 2017)

I have a problem that just gets worse every year. There is a mulberry tree just on the other side of my property line that the landowner said it is fine with him to take out. The problem is, I don't want to kill my grapes useing toradon to kill the tree. I killed some brush in the area close to there, and killed my elderberry bushes in the process. Can't have that with my grapes! Anyone have some ideas that may work? Thank you.


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## vacuumpumpman (Jun 5, 2017)

treesaver said:


> I have a problem that just gets worse every year. There is a mulberry tree just on the other side of my property line that the landowner said it is fine with him to take out. The problem is, I don't want to kill my grapes useing toradon to kill the tree. I killed some brush in the area close to there, and killed my elderberry bushes in the process. Can't have that with my grapes! Anyone have some ideas that may work? Thank you.



I hope I am understanding your question ?

There is always a chainsaw or girdling the tree ?


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## Johnd (Jun 5, 2017)

treesaver said:


> I have a problem that just gets worse every year. There is a mulberry tree just on the other side of my property line that the landowner said it is fine with him to take out. The problem is, I don't want to kill my grapes useing toradon to kill the tree. I killed some brush in the area close to there, and killed my elderberry bushes in the process. Can't have that with my grapes! Anyone have some ideas that may work? Thank you.



Interesting question, how to kill a tree, from treesaver...............


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## treesaver (Jun 5, 2017)

I got my handle from my hobby of trapping beaver. Trees are no more than woody weeds. Yes, I can cut the tree down, I can girdle it, but that won't kill a mulberry! I'm looking for a way to treat it after it is cut, that won't transfer to my grapes. It is close enough that it has roots intermingled with my grape roots. Toradon works wonders, but will transfer to my grapes through the roots. I've tried salt on some small ones, and they sprouted right back!


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## Redbird1 (Jun 5, 2017)

Might be dumb, but is there any way to "burn"/flame it? Hollow out the stump, soak it in gasoline, and set a fire in there? 

Alternatively, possibly equally dumb, but is there a way to put some sort of impermeable barrier between the two plants and try the Toradon? I know you said the roots are intermingled, but perhaps you could dig a trench between the two, trying to minimize the loss of the grape roots. I don't know how long Toradon remains active, but you could pull the barrier back up after that amount of time, and let the grape roots take off again.

I'm not much of a gardener/landscaper/etc., but those two ideas came to mind.


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## Masbustelo (Jun 6, 2017)

What about dynamite?


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## dralarms (Jun 6, 2017)

Cut it down, drill some holes in the stump and pour Epson salts in there and wet.


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## grapeman (Jun 6, 2017)

I know glyphosate (Roundup and others) is not currently popular with many people, but most trees like that can be killed (including roots and underground rhizome type roots) by cutting the tree down and paining some glyphosate full strength onto the freshly cut stump. It is drawn into the roots where they are killed.


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## treesaver (Jun 6, 2017)

Grapeman, the glyphosate won't transfer between roots like toradon? This tree is about ten feet from my frontenacs, and it's gotta go, but It scares me. I've heard of mixes of diesel fuel and antifreeze, but I'm worried about the carrying through the roots!


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## grapeman (Jun 6, 2017)

The glyphosate needs to be taken up by an actively growing portion of the plant such as leaves and won't be taken in by the trunk or shoots that are hardened. Never heard of root to root transfer of it so I believe you would be safe.


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## treesaver (Jun 6, 2017)

Thank you for the imput, I'll give it a try and see! I'll let you know how it turns out!


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## treesaver (Jun 6, 2017)

Grapeman, the glyphosate won't transfer between roots like toradon? This tree is about ten feet from my frontenacs, and it's gotta go, but It scares me. I've heard of mixes of diesel fuel and antifreeze, but I'm worried about the carrying through the roots!


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## treesaver (Jun 6, 2017)

Hmmm, that's weird. I posted the reply to grapemans post and. it posted the earlier reply after it. Thanks again guys.


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## Ajmassa (Jun 6, 2017)

3" copper nails loaded all over into the stump. Keep them 1.5 inches part nailing em down into the trunk and on the sides all the way around. Will kill it good and dead 100% every time. Dead and gone and no accidental collateral damage. Just make sure you remove all the nails before the stump is removed so nothing is accidentally left behind. 
It's like using copper sulfate without risking the health of any other growth near the stump.

Edit: I stand corrected. Mulberry is in its own class apparently. And google is all over the glyphosphate herbicide.


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## treesaver (Jun 6, 2017)

I don't believe I've ever seen copper nails. That sounds like just what I'm looking for, but finding copper nails might be the deal breaker!


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## Johnd (Jun 6, 2017)

When we have unwanted trees on our hunting property, we simply cut them down low to the ground and hit the new growth that pops out with glyphosate a time or two and it does the trick. Just make sure you don't have any wind blowing towards your vines if you try this method.


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## Redbird1 (Jun 6, 2017)

That's a neat idea. 

A couple questions. Isn't copper too soft to be hammered into anything? How long does such a process take? There must be some reaction that needs to take place, then transporting the resultant byproduct to the roots, I assume. A Google search sure has mixed reviews on the process.


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## Ajmassa (Jun 6, 2017)

Redbird1 said:


> That's a neat idea.
> 
> A couple questions. Isn't copper too soft to be hammered into anything? How long does such a process take? There must be some reaction that needs to take place, then transporting the resultant byproduct to the roots, I assume. A Google search sure has mixed reviews on the process.




I've seen it work with my own hands and eyes. The longer the nails the better and quicker it works. And it kills a small tree or stump much quicker than you'd think. Though I don't remember the exact timeframe. And it was never a mulberry. I edited my last post after googling and the 1st thing that popped up for the accepted practice for mulberry stump removal said glyphosate herbicide.--never heard of it personally. 
But They have em at Walmart, hardware stores, Amazon. Either labeled "copper roofing nails" or "tree stump nails". Bigger the better. 
The nail is just as strong as any other nail defying logic. (Any nail will bend if on a knot or hit wrong). 
I don't know all the science behind it aside from the copper oxidizing while in the tree is a certified tree and root serial killer! And keeps all the carnage isolated within the root and not killing anything else around it.


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## Ajmassa (Jun 6, 2017)

I had a busted soil line underground that was caused from grassroot through a coupling connection. Not fun. Entire front yard dug up and cost booku bucks. 
I was told to dump a bottle of copper sulfate down my drains once or twice a year and will kill off anything attempting to squeeze through again. Same idea with the nails. 
I learned from my dad as kid. He'd done it a few times over the years and told me to use the nails when I had a nuisance tree. I was skeptical. He was right. Now I swear by the method.


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## grapeman (Jun 6, 2017)

Copper is used as a micro-nutrient and very small amounts of it can be beneficial. The copper nails overdose the tree on copper as it is toxic to all living things in large quantities. Copper sprays are considered organic but they can be just as deadly to all living things as the most toxic pesticides. Orchards in New York State that used to use copper sprays a lot have actually become contaminated with the spray buildup over the years and several of them can't be sold for sub-divisions as the land is considered too toxic for human habitation. If you use them to kill the trees please remove them afterwards and dispose of properly or reuse them according to the original labels.


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## meadmaker1 (Jun 6, 2017)

Diesel or atifreeze wont do more that wilt the leaves.


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## treesaver (Jun 6, 2017)

Good discussion guys. This has given me some ideas on how to handle "my problem"! I will look for copper nails, as much carpentry and building I've been around, I have never seen them. I will start my quest into the elusive copper nail!. Thanks again for all the ideas.


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## sour_grapes (Jun 6, 2017)

They're used in roofing applications, so you could start with a roofing supply company.


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## grapeman (Jun 7, 2017)

They are also used to attach copper flashing for pressure treated decks with the new copper based preservative treatments. If regular nails are used it causes a reaction and the flashing will be eaten up sooner.


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## meadmaker1 (Jun 7, 2017)

You can find cooper ground rods at electrical supply house, thatcyou can cut into spikes. Or depending whete youbare a boat supply place.


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## Ajmassa (Jun 7, 2017)

Copper Tree and Stump Remover - DIY Tree Killing and Removal System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBEOZCO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

There's a few different types on Amazon. This one comes with x21 3.5" nails. Should be plenty given the nail size


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## dwhill40 (Jun 7, 2017)

A hoe and a little roundup will save you money. Chop the growth down, spray returning sprouts with roundup and repeat a few times. I've sprayed roundup (on a windless day of course) around the base of one foot tall newly planted vinifera with no negative results. It has to enter through green leaves to affect the roots.


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## Bobp (Sep 2, 2018)

Cut it down. Get a qt of 24D. Drill several 1/2 holes pour straight in the holes. This works on mulberry, and locust....


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## wildhair (Sep 3, 2018)

Well, you could have some fun and shoot the stump full of copper solid slugs. LOL 

Seriously - couldn't you drill holes and insert copper rods? If you are going the copper route?






And btw - where is this mulberry tree? I've been trying to find one so I can make Mulberry Wine! Every one seems to have been cut down in my area.


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## Dennis Griffith (Sep 3, 2018)

Bobp said:


> Cut it down. Get a qt of 24D. Drill several 1/2 holes pour straight in the holes. This works on mulberry, and locust....



Being that close to the vines, I think I'd pass on the 2,4-d. You can also find copper nails from any boat building supply place.


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## louieb (Sep 3, 2018)

Goggle muratic. Acid liquid it will kill trees pour at base of tree be careful and wear proper protective gloves eyewear.clothes.



treesaver said:


> I have a problem that just gets worse every year. There is a mulberry tree just on the other side of my property line that the landowner said it is fine with him to take out. The problem is, I don't want to kill my grapes useing toradon to kill the tree. I killed some brush in the area close to there, and killed my elderberry bushes in the process. Can't have that with my grapes! Anyone have some ideas that may work? Thank you.


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## louieb (Sep 3, 2018)

louieb said:


> Goggle muratic. Acid liquid it will kill trees pour at base of tree be careful and wear proper protective gloves eyewear.clothes.


Also I had a landscaper applied by rubber glove on weeds kill them 
instantly ! I’m not sure I would try that though!!!


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## JustJoe (Sep 3, 2018)

I have eliminated a couple of mulberry trees by cutting them off near the ground and then, using an old pruning shear I cut the new sprouts off every few weeks. It takes two full seasons for the root system to die, but it will die and there will be no poisons.


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## Rewam (Sep 3, 2018)

umm, why not just make some mulberry wine or pie or jam and leave the tree alone - surely it can't be reducing your grape yield by THAT much


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## wpt-me (Sep 5, 2018)

*Cut it down or girdling it.

*
Bill


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## treesaver (Sep 17, 2018)

Update on the tree. Whacked it down, been spraying the growth with round up. Seems to be working, will just have to keep on it. That tree was shading three rows of frontenac and had to go. It is firewood for the stove now. I have two big mulberries that raise lots of fruit. The trouble is, the birds crap seeds everywhere, so I have little mulberry trees growing everywhere. They are more trouble than they are worth!


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## balatonwine (Sep 19, 2018)

treesaver said:


> The trouble is, the birds crap seeds everywhere, so I have little mulberry trees growing everywhere. They are more trouble than they are worth!



Yes. Mulberry trees are great, until they aren't. Fruit from black Mulberry makes a great wine. Fruit from white makes great dried fruit and the leaves a wonderful tea. But they just grow everywhere if left to their own devices. Then you need dynamite to get rid of them.


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## bstnh1 (Sep 19, 2018)

treesaver said:


> I got my handle from my hobby of trapping beaver. Trees are no more than woody weeds. Yes, I can cut the tree down, I can girdle it, but that won't kill a mulberry! I'm looking for a way to treat it after it is cut, that won't transfer to my grapes. It is close enough that it has roots intermingled with my grape roots. Toradon works wonders, but will transfer to my grapes through the roots. I've tried salt on some small ones, and they sprouted right back!



Trees may be nothing more than woody weeds to you, but without trees none of us would be here because the air would not be fit ti breathe and would not support life.


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## treesaver (Sep 22, 2018)

Give me a break! I can tell you don't understand nature very well. Grasslands and the corn crop in the breadbasket of this great nation produce more oxygen than the trees do, but I'm sure you would never believe me! Do some research, it may surprise you. Trees on the prairie are a woody weed!


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## bstnh1 (Sep 22, 2018)

treesaver said:


> Give me a break! I can tell you don't understand nature very well. Grasslands and the corn crop in the breadbasket of this great nation produce more oxygen than the trees do, but I'm sure you would never believe me! Do some research, it may surprise you. Trees on the prairie are a woody weed!



Here are just two of the many, many articles on human life dependency on trees.

https://www.nature.com/scitable/blog/our-science/no_trees_no_humans

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/what-would-happen-were-trees-earth-by-ashraful-muku-ashraful-muku

And here's a blurb telling us that grass is a poor producer of oxygen:

"According to Anthony Brach, the actual weighed amount of oxygen that grass produces does not matter as much as the net amount of oxygen produced in its life cycle. Grass does not produce much net oxygen because of the type of carbon it produces. When grass dies, its carbon products—sugars and starches—use up oxygen and release carbon dioxide when it decays. If an animal eats the grass, oxygen is used by the cow's digestive process to turn the grass into energy. *Thus, grass is a poor producer of oxygen.*"

I suggest you grab a towel and dry off. You're all wet!


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## treesaver (Sep 23, 2018)

One thing I have found, since the age of the internet, is you can find justification for any idea you may have . I'll need a towel here in a bit, when I take my shower, but not for what you point out. You keep your ideas and I'm keeping mine! Have a good one.


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## Keith1940 (Sep 23, 2018)

Trees are woody weeds once you don't want them or when they die. I only remove nuisance trees and some dead trees. Two red oaks 100' from the house died, they got to go. A large volunteer cherry and a previous owner planted pear tree were blocking too much sun from my garden beds. They have since been removed. I transplanted a volunteer mulberry into the open field. I also have trees which I dug up from my truck driving days and a vacation. Maine, Minnesota, NH, and Pennsylvania are some of the states.

Copper does work. At my previous residence I shot at targets resting up against a loblolly pine tree, it did die, I cannot remember how long it took.


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