# Post your high-mileage cars here!



## jswordy (Nov 14, 2014)

*1993 Nissan Sentra SE,* daily driver, bought new, never garaged, engine never opened - 294,688.
Total cost per mile, ALL expenses and purchase price included: 0.02

*2001 Ford F150,* bought new, never garaged, 187,534. Former daily driver, chiefly used when something has to be hauled now.

Wish I had pix. How about yours?


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## olusteebus (Nov 14, 2014)

Meet Blue. Not really a high mileage vehicle. It only shows about 48000 miles. I don't know if it is 148000 or 248000 but I know it is not 48000. It is my Florida truck. No air. I drove it down from Alabama in July about 10 years ago. It was a hot trip.

Automatic, 302 two barrel. I paid $2,000 for it then. It was a good investment but she drinks gas like a lush. 

Sweet truck. I wash it every spring whether she needs it or not.


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## vacuumpumpman (Nov 14, 2014)

I bought a 2002 jetta wagon - used for 2800 dollars about 3 years ago - It gets 29-32 miles to the gallon. I travel 50 miles a day - Lets just say I defintley got my money back - because my other vehicle is a gas hog !! Chevey tahoe that will not get above 14 MPG


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## Bubba1 (Nov 14, 2014)

I have a 2006 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl with 229,650 use it every day change the oil ( non syn ) every 3000 miles no issues at all


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## richmke (Nov 14, 2014)

1994 Geo Prizm (toyota corolla). 260,000 miles. It was totaled 3 years ago, but still chugging along. I'm waiting for someone else to rear-end me again.


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## DoctorCAD (Nov 14, 2014)

7000 on my 6 month old Fusion Hybrid!


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## Runningwolf (Nov 14, 2014)

2007 Honda Accord EXL, 200,000 miles. It is the first new car I ever bought. I turned 50 and decided to go for it that year. I just replaced the engine this past summer due to timing belt going bad. The car still runs and looks great.


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## dralarms (Nov 14, 2014)

2006 Dodge ram 1500, 220, 000 miles


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## Rocky (Nov 14, 2014)

You guys are way ahead of anything I have had. My bests have been:

1. 1975 Chevy Malibu which I sold with 167,000 miles and later saw that the new owner had up to 179,000. Don't know where it ended up but it was still going strong at the time. Great car, had that bullet proof 350 engine.
2. 1984 Buick LeSabre with 134,000 when I traded it in for a '92 Honda Accord.
3. My current car, 2003 Acura RL with 118,000. Runs like a top and I have no plans to get rid of it.


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## sour_grapes (Nov 14, 2014)

I guess I am a bit of a piker. My 1995 Honda Civic Si hatchback only has 171k miles. My problem is that I just don't drive anywhere! I live in a walking neighborhood, and walk almost everywhere. I only put a few thousand miles a year on the old girl.




jswordy said:


> *1993 Nissan Sentra SE,* daily driver, bought new, never garaged, engine never opened - 294,688.
> Total cost per mile, ALL expenses and purchase price included: 0.02



I am sure you have this worked out, but this seems a tad hard to believe. Less than $6k? I cannot recall the purchase price of this vehicle, but my wife bought her Nissan Sentra new a few years before yours (maybe 1991?), and I thought she paid over $5k. Merely including tires, brake pads, exhaust systems, etc., brought us up a few thousand. (Unfortunately, that car met its untimely demise due to the fact that I DID have the timing belt replaced as a preventative measure. Stupid mechanic must have screwed up -- belt slipped a cog, then slipped off in short order and bent the valves. Ouch.)


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## Charlesthewino (Nov 15, 2014)

2001 Dodge Grand Caravan - 186,000 miles. Original powertrain. I only use synthetic oil, high capacity filters and transmission fluid in all my vehicles, boat, jetskis, lawnmower, snow blower, etc. If it has an engine, it gets synthetic. 

1995 Jeep Cherokee - 230,000 miles. My sons car. Same thing.


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## NorCal (Nov 15, 2014)

197K on my original owner 2000 F150, shown dragging home a project car.


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## calvin (Nov 15, 2014)

Last year I sold my 2006 ram 3500 diesel. Had 266,000 miles on it. Got $18,000 for it. I plan on keeping my 2011 until 300,000 miles minimum.


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## Charlesthewino (Nov 15, 2014)

calvin said:


> Last year I sold my 2006 ram 3500 diesel. Had 266,000 miles on it. Got $18,000 for it. I plan on keeping my 2011 until 300,000 miles minimum.




This summer I saw a 2007? Ram 3500 come in the service dept of a store I call on at 873,000 miles. It is not uncommon to see 500,000 mile Ram diesel trucks. Especially those in fleet hauling services. When properly maintained, they last.


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## Brew and Wine Supply (Nov 15, 2014)

had an 80 Olds Delta 88, died just 500 miles short of 300,000. 
current car is an 07 Mustang with only 35,000. I live only about 3 miles from work.


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## Sage (Nov 15, 2014)

2000 F150, 265,000 miles. Replaced the engine at 262,000.


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## jswordy (Nov 17, 2014)

Yep, Paul, should be .12 a mile and that's factoring in gas and oil at prices way higher than it used to be when the car was new. When new, I could fill it for $8. 

Car gets 30 mpg, I don't care what you do with it. Load it with people or stuff, 30. Drive it empty all by myself, 30. Cold out, 30. Hot out, 30. Tire fully inflated, 30. Tires low on air, 30.


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## jswordy (Nov 17, 2014)

Charlesthewino said:


> 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan - 186,000 miles. Original powertrain. I only use synthetic oil, high capacity filters and transmission fluid in all my vehicles, boat, jetskis, lawnmower, snow blower, etc. If it has an engine, it gets synthetic.
> 
> 1995 Jeep Cherokee - 230,000 miles. My sons car. Same thing.
> 
> ...



I have to comment on this one. That is excellent mileage out of the original drivetrain on a Caravan. You must have taken very good care of it. Those transmissions were bad to burn up before hitting 90,000. Your experience is awesome.


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## kevinlfifer (Nov 17, 2014)

241000 On a 2001 430 S Benz. Got it at 101000. It runs great still averaging 20 mpg. 15mpg city and 25+mpg hwy
I have replaced :
brake disks and pads
heater blower and regulator
suspension system air pump
I'll run it until it goes wheels up, hopefully @ 500000+

Oh yeah 325+ HP and 0-60 in under 5 sec. Plus I can take 35 mph curves at 65 mph or more. But I would never.

Did push it to 145 mph on an airport runway. Not bad for a car that wieghs in at over 6000 lb when all fluids are full.


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## WineQuest (Nov 17, 2014)

1995 Subaru Legacy Station Wagon - 294,000 miles. Bought it for $300 8 years ago because there was 'something wrong with the transmission.' I figured for $300 I could afford to replace the trans and still be ok financially. All I did was flush out the fluid and I have been driving it every day for 8 years and it's going strong.


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## Charlesthewino (Nov 17, 2014)

jswordy said:


> I have to comment on this one. That is excellent mileage out of the original drivetrain on a Caravan. You must have taken very good care of it. Those transmissions were bad to burn up before hitting 90,000. Your experience is awesome.



jswordy - I ran that van to hell and back...and it performed flawlessly. I used it for 8 years to pull my 6000# boat to the launch. Got several funny looks. Since it is front wheel drive, I never got the front tires wet so it never slipped a tire on the wet concrete. BTW...That's way over the tow rating which I think is 2500#. When we moved, I used it to pull the boat nearly 850 miles. Severely over weighted as it was packed with luggage. There were times I was sure the transmission was going to come apart as we hit nearly 6000 rpm on the hills. It made the trip and another 90,000 miles after that. Still in use today. Sold it to my daughter. Nothing special. No added trans cooler or any modifications other than synthetic transmission fluid.


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## jswordy (Nov 18, 2014)

Charlesthewino said:


> jswordy - I ran that van to hell and back...and it performed flawlessly. I used it for 8 years to pull my 6000# boat to the launch. Got several funny looks. Since it is front wheel drive, I never got the front tires wet so it never slipped a tire on the wet concrete. BTW...That's way over the tow rating which I think is 2500#. When we moved, I used it to pull the boat nearly 850 miles. Severely over weighted as it was packed with luggage. There were times I was sure the transmission was going to come apart as we hit nearly 6000 rpm on the hills. It made the trip and another 90,000 miles after that. Still in use today. Sold it to my daughter. Nothing special. No added trans cooler or any modifications other than synthetic transmission fluid.



That is a rare exception. Congrats!

The winner so far is this post on the same topic that I started on a car board:



> Ok since you said I can...
> 
> You want braggin’? I’ll give you some-
> 
> ...



Can anybody top that????


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## tanddc (Nov 19, 2014)

I had that very same year escort GT. Loved that car. Drove the wheels off of it (literally). The wheels were rusting through from all the salt and snow. I had over 140K on it when I traded it in and it was still running great. Only thing wrong was the suspension was wore out. I had to replace the alternator and the ignition coil.


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## marino (Nov 19, 2014)

I'm driving a 2009 Nissan versa new and have put all 158k miles on it. I drive about 550 miles per week so I'm trying to figure out how to extend the life of this car to the max. I need it to last at least 3 more years. Anyone have any advice? I change the oil religiously every 3-4k miles, max. 

What do you all do to keep these going? Is it just luck with some cars?


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## calvin (Nov 19, 2014)

I would say luck. Some swear by synthetic oils. I gave up on synthetic when the guy that built my snowmobile engine told me to use anything but synthetic. He said synthetic oil doesn't get absorbed into the cylinder walls like good old fashioned mineral oil. He went so far as to void the warranty if I ran synthetic oil. Ever since then I haven't bought a quart of the stuff.

My snowmobile is a 2 stroke. Don't know if that makes any difference


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## Logwerx (Nov 19, 2014)

I bought 2 new vehicles in 1990, both Toyotas, 4-Runner for the wife and family time, pickup truck for me. Both have the 22RE 4 cylinder engine. The truck currently has 480,000 the 4-Runner is just about ready to go over 600,000. Bought a new 2011 VW Sportwagen TDI and sent the 4-Runner to college with the kid. 

Both Toyota's are pretty much original, with the exception of the timing belts, brakes, & fluids. We have talked about fixing the 4-Runner back up like new, once the kid is done with it.


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## Charlesthewino (Nov 19, 2014)

Calvin - Unfortunately there are people with that opinion and give the same advice. It's mostly nonsense. Mainly opinions that are not based on any factual information. Many engine manufacturers require synthetic oil in the engine. Automotive, marine, motorcycle, snowmobiles, etc. That many manufacturers and across that many industries cannot all be wrong. 

The facts are that synthetic oils/fluids perform substantially better in extreme conditions. Extreme hot or cold. For example, petroleum oil becomes very thick at cold temps. At below zero temps it becomes unpourable. Place a quart of petroleum and synthetic oil in your freezer overnight and then pour them both as soon as they come out. You will find a substantial difference. So this means that during a cold start the engine is running without oil being pumped (especially below freezing and below zero). I forget the exact percentage, but it is something close to 50% of all engine wear occurs in the first 3 minutes of engine operation.

So absolutely in just this one example, synthetic oil can increase the longevity of your engine. We haven't even tapped many other potential advantages - better heat distribution, less friction, lower flash point, etc. One piece of fiction you will hear is longer oil change interval. The fact is that all oil gets contaminated and must be changed based on that. Longer intervals can be achieved, but not based on oil alone. Hope this helps. 


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## calvin (Nov 19, 2014)

You have my opinion on synthetics. Yours may be valid but you won't catch me dropping that kind of cash changing oil. Honestly I believe a dirty air filter will destroy an engine way before ones choice of oil. Imagine dirt particles rubbing against your cylinder walls 6,000 times per minute. Keep your air filter clean. Especially if you drive dirt roads or in dusty conditions. My $.02


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## richmke (Nov 20, 2014)

Marino, to maximize the life of your car:

Oil changes
don't run low on oil
don't run low on coolant
Proper levels for your other oils
Maybe have an aftermarket cooler for your transmission oil
Address issues quickly

My son just bought a new car that requires synthetic oil. IMHO, synthetic oil for a regular car is beneficial in cold temps. At cold temps it flows much more easily, and does not thin out at operating temps like multi-grade conventional oil.


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## marino (Nov 20, 2014)

Thanks, Rich. Are these fluids things that the mechanic would check on at oil changes? I'm there every couple of months. I'll ask about the trans cooler.


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## richmke (Nov 20, 2014)

marino said:


> Thanks, Rich. Are these fluids things that the mechanic would check on at oil changes? I'm there every couple of months. I'll ask about the trans cooler.



Most reputable places will check the Power steering and Transmission fluid levels.

There is a scheduled maintenance on the fluids. I would worry about them in the following order:

Transmission Fluid. It runs really hot. I believe the recommendation is ever 2 years, including changing the filter/screen. Note: If you have stick shift, you don't have to worry about this.

Brake fluid. It has chemicals to resist moisture.

Power Steering Fluid. This one can last a while.

Rotate and balance your tires every 8,000 miles will extend their life.

Can't get around regular items like brakes & struts. I believe your car has a timing chain, which lasts a long time.


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## Charlesthewino (Nov 20, 2014)

I was referring to the snowmobile mechanics opinion. Your correct in that a clean air filter will make a big difference. Not to mention a 10% increase in MPG.


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## jswordy (Nov 20, 2014)

Here's my take on synthetics and some general maintenance tips:

1.) If you drive an older model (pre-synthetic days), then don't use synthetics. They do not swell the older seals like conventional does and can result in leaks (proven mechanical fact).

2.) It is not the OIL that kills the engine, it is the DIRT! I use conventional oils changed at 3,000-4,000 miles with a Wix oil filter change. I change my Wix air filter at 20,000 miles max (usually between 15,000-20,000 during an oil change). I do inspect it every other oil change. Oil brand does not matter to me, I buy the cheapest name brands I can get - but the API service rating does. See: http://www.api.org/certification-pr...iesel/Publications/MOM_GUIDE_ENGLISH_2013.pdf

3.) There are a very few filters worth a damn. Wix (which makes NAPA and Carquest brands too), Purolator, Baldwin. They go downhill after that. This is from my own personal experience cutting oil filters open as a parts counterman and also from comparative studies. Use good brand-name oil and air filters. Remember, DIRT kills the engine.

4.) Some newer cars (including the Nissan Versa) do not use in-line gas filters, only the one on the fuel pump in the tank. If yours has an in-line gas filter, change it 3/4 earlier than the manufacturer recommends (if they say 100,000 do it at 75,000). This prolongs the life of injectors.

5.) Do not allow your car to go below 3/4 tank of gas very often if you intend to keep it as a high-mileage car. Any contaminants in gas (and they are few now, but still present) will settle into that bottom quarter-tank. Constantly running near dry before filling up drives these particles through your fuel pump, into your fuel filter, and to a degree, into your injectors. That shortens the life of all those components. Add an injector cleaner to your gas every third oil change.

6.) Don't change auto transmission fluid as long as it is red on the dipstick and smells fine (not burnt smelling). Time and again, changing auto trans fluid just because "it's time" has resulted in transmission problems. This is the experience of many pro mechanics talking here. Just keep it full and not overfilled.

7.) Likewise, check and fill manual trans fluid every other oil change for newer cars and every change for high mileage cars.

8.) Change plugs every 100,000 miles if platinums. (Have fun on that Versa, where it requires taking the entire top end off the engine to get to them! About a $300 job from a mechanic. Ludicrous!)

9.) Do not allow corrosion to build up on battery terminals. Duh, right? BUT likewise, do not allow DIRT to build up on the battery case. Moisture in the air during high humidity / rainy periods can create a tiny connection through dirt between terminals that saps the battery longevity and makes the charging system have to charge deeper under taxing circumstance, shortening the life of both. Batteries are high-priced now! I get 10 years minimum out of my 5-year warranty batteries just by keeping the case and terminals clean. Oh, and if you have battery posts, those little terminal post washers? They work.

10.) When topping off with DOT 3 brake fluid, use fresh fluid. When capping the plastic fluid bottle, squeeze the sides to raise the level to the top before capping off. This helps keep moisture out of the fluid.

11.) Changing your own oil makes your car last longer because you can spot other problems early. It is a wise investment of a couple hours on Saturday. I got 289,000 miles out of my original brake rotors on the Sentra by spotting pad wear during oil changes and changing them ahead of failure, for example.

12.) Check your tire pressure and top off at every 3,000-mile oil change. It's the single best thing you can do to improve gas mileage. It's also makes common sense that the easier they roll, the easier it is on your drivetrain.


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## marino (Nov 20, 2014)

Thanks JS. So I have a question that I know can only be answered by experience and opinion and maybe not absolute fact, but I hope some of you will chime in. 

It looks like cars like the versa weren't built to be High mileage (given that the kind of maintenance it requires means that there's a lot of work that most people won't want to put in to it, like $300 to change spark plugs for example)

So, in your opinion, what are some good cars that have a good chance of making it to high mileage? In other words, what are some cars that make it easy for people to do long-term maintenance on ? 

If this is too far off topic, forgive me and ignore my question.

Marino


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## olusteebus (Nov 21, 2014)

Since we are on the subject I am going to share a story of something I did to my 04 f150 with 138000 miles. The gas mileage had dropped significantly from around 19 new down to 15 now. I was advised to not change plugs due to the problems that could cause in those trucks. I was also advised by a friend who has a bmw shop to add BG44 to it. ONe can in a tank will remove carbon. IF you do this in succession (twice) it is recommended to change the oil.

I did one can and have increased my mileage up by at least 1 1/2 miles per gallon. When it comes time for an oil change, I am gonna do it twice.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


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## Charlesthewino (Nov 21, 2014)

Plugged fuel injectors can cause a decrease in MPG as well as performance issues. I'd recommend a quality fuel injector service. What you want to look for is a 3 part cleaning system. What you have used thus far is what is considered a chaser cleaner. It's typically added to the gas tank and cleans on the way to the engine. So that's only one part of the full cleaning. A 3 part cleaner consists of: 1. A concentrated cleaner which is fed thru the fuel rail directly to the fuel injectors. 2. A cleaner that is fed into the throttle body and 3. The chaser put in the tank. Part 1 the concentrated cleaner does most of the work. It cleans the injectors and the backs of the intake valves. Part 2 cleans the throttle body, intake runners and plenum. Part 3 cleans the fuel lines up to the engine and beyond. However, Part 3 is heavily diluted as it is mixed with gas. Not nearly the cleaning potential of a 3 part system. When done properly, you will "feel" a difference in the way the engine performs and an increase in MPG. Any reputable service facility or dealer can perform this cleaning. There is some special equipment involved which is why most DIY folks can't get the same results. If you get it done, make sure you get all three areas cleaned as many of these cleanings are only partial or very diluted.

As it relates to your prior question. Nearly any well maintained vehicle will last. It has always amazed me how people skimp on vehicle maintenance. To most people their vehicle is the second most expensive investment they will ever make next to the house. Why people neglect them I just don't get. Cheap parts, filters, oil, etc. only spells disaster long term. If you take care of your vehicle it will take care of you. That's the way I see it.


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## Charlesthewino (Nov 21, 2014)

Sorry that was Marino on the prior question.


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## Hokapsig (Nov 21, 2014)

We are a Honda family. Currently, we have 156K on a 2009 Civic that I ran to DC and Bowling Green, OH, a 2005 CRV that has 97K that the boy drives and the wife drives a 2012 Civic EX that had 2997 miles on it when we bought it, but now has 20K on it. We typically get in the upper 100K's to mid 200's on our Hondas before we sell them and get another.

I keep scouting for a 1932-1959 pickup truck for hauling grapes, picking up bottles and a marketing tool for the winery.


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## vacuumpumpman (Nov 21, 2014)

olusteebus said:


> Since we are on the subject I am going to share a story of something I did to my 04 f150 with 138000 miles. The gas mileage had dropped significantly from around 19 new down to 15 now. I was advised to not change plugs due to the problems that could cause in those trucks. I was also advised by a friend who has a bmw shop to add BG44 to it. ONe can in a tank will remove carbon. IF you do this in succession (twice) it is recommended to change the oil.
> 
> I did one can and have increased my mileage up by at least 1 1/2 miles per gallon. When it comes time for an oil change, I am gonna do it twice.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



If that is a 5.4 yes those plugs are known for breaking off in the head. There is a tool from Matco that grabs the plug much better and if it does break it can remove it also. I recommened getting the engine hot and crack the spark plug and then pour some water down the hole - so it will loosen the carbon causing the plug to break - 
Well after typing - I would not worry about it as long as you dont have a check engine light on 

Just a FYI - I am a certified master mechanic by trade 
For this particular engine - I recommend using champion spark plugs as they are made 1 piece unlike the factory pressed fit ones.


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## olusteebus (Nov 22, 2014)

Charlesthewino said:


> Plugged fuel injectors can cause a decrease in MPG as well as performance issues. I'd recommend a quality fuel injector service. What you want to look for is a 3 part cleaning system. What you have used thus far is what is considered a chaser cleaner. It's typically added to the gas tank and cleans on the way to the engine. So that's only one part of the full cleaning. A 3 part cleaner consists of: 1. A concentrated cleaner which is fed thru the fuel rail directly to the fuel injectors. 2. A cleaner that is fed into the throttle body and 3. The chaser put in the tank. Part 1 the concentrated cleaner does most of the work. It cleans the injectors and the backs of the intake valves. Part 2 cleans the throttle body, intake runners and plenum. Part 3 cleans the fuel lines up to the engine and beyond. However, Part 3 is heavily diluted as it is mixed with gas. Not nearly the cleaning potential of a 3 part system. When done properly, you will "feel" a difference in the way the engine performs and an increase in MPG. Any reputable service facility or dealer can perform this cleaning. There is some special equipment involved which is why most DIY folks can't get the same results. If you get it done, make sure you get all three areas cleaned as many of these cleanings are only partial or very diluted.
> 
> As it relates to your prior question. Nearly any well maintained vehicle will last. It has always amazed me how people skimp on vehicle maintenance. To most people their vehicle is the second most expensive investment they will ever make next to the house. Why people neglect them I just don't get. Cheap parts, filters, oil, etc. only spells disaster long term. If you take care of your vehicle it will take care of you. That's the way I see it.
> 
> ...



I may do that with a package made by this company. It costs about 70 bucks to have it done not including the cost of the kit but it is probably worth it.


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## vacuumpumpman (Nov 22, 2014)

olusteebus
I am not sure how handy you are ? , But removing the injectors is fairly simple in that engine. I then soak the tips in water - yes water ! It instantly removes the carbon deposits causing the nozzle not to spray or a poor spray pattern. then take 12 volts sourse to the injector (it is marked +) and take shop air and you can see the actual spray pattern using the water that is in the injector.


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## olusteebus (Nov 23, 2014)

Although I restored my old corvette (some things farmed out), I am intimidated about removing injectors but if you say so, I will look into it. thanks


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## jswordy (Nov 26, 2014)

olusteebus said:


> Since we are on the subject I am going to share a story of something I did to my 04 f150 with 138000 miles. The gas mileage had dropped significantly from around 19 new down to 15 now. I was advised to not change plugs due to the problems that could cause in those trucks. I was also advised by a friend who has a bmw shop to add BG44 to it. ONe can in a tank will remove carbon. IF you do this in succession (twice) it is recommended to change the oil.
> 
> I did one can and have increased my mileage up by at least 1 1/2 miles per gallon. When it comes time for an oil change, I am gonna do it twice.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20




You must change the plugs. They are not meant to last past 100,000. If you can't do it yourself, have it done. Does the truck run well? If it runs rough, it could be the coil pack(s). Is the check engine light on? I own an 01 F150. I changed my plugs easily. I used a tiny dab of Nevr-Seize on the new ones. Just be sure they are correctly threaded until the plug base meets the head and snug them. Don't over tighten. I'm convinced that is where the stripping problem comes from, same as small engines which use aluminum heads.

I can also tell you the mileage will drop. About 15 in mixed driving is as good as mine gets. That's why it never goes anywhere anymore unless it is pulling something or making me money. The drop is a function of wear and the fact that your pollution control system is not working as well as it did new. Ford did a lousy job on the pollution controls on these trucks, IMO. Lots of long lines to clog or get fluid fouled and intake manifold channels that are smallish. They also pack up with carbon easily. Ask me how I know!

The snake oil you added has probably cleaned up your plugs temporarily. I'm not totally anti-snake oil, but it does not cure problems only mechanical intervention can solve.


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## jswordy (Nov 26, 2014)

marino said:


> Thanks JS. So I have a question that I know can only be answered by experience and opinion and maybe not absolute fact, but I hope some of you will chime in.
> 
> It looks like cars like the versa weren't built to be High mileage (given that the kind of maintenance it requires means that there's a lot of work that most people won't want to put in to it, like $300 to change spark plugs for example)
> 
> ...



Quite the contrary, the Versa will give you excellent longevity. It's just that they were arrogant about the plug location, given that the plugs will last 100,000-125,000 miles. But they will need to be replaced eventually. So here you go, a long video: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=putwah6xXN0[/ame]

When I bought my 93 Sentra, I was told it was engineered for 200,000, which I completely discounted. But here it is at 295,500 now. My wife owns an '08 Versa with 140,000 on it. Neither car burns oil.

I would have to say Nissans have been very good to my wife. She has owned them exclusively since before we met, starting with a 1977 Datsun F10, then a B210, then the Sentra, then the Versa. They all have run long long lives over 200,000 and the older ones were sold off to friends who ran them thousands more miles after us.

Meanwhile, I had been buying American cars. Ummm, not so good for my long use at cheap costs purposes. My current F150 has 187,000 now, but I have spent some coin on that truck to keep it running. My wife has made me a believer by proving to me for more than 30 years that Nissans run a long time.

Whatever brand you buy, be sure the engine does not have a timing belt. You want a chain. That choice right there will increase longevity.


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## marino (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks, JS!

I've had the plugs changed at 150,000 so I think I should be fine..

Marino


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## dralarms (Nov 26, 2014)

Mine had a plug change at 100, 000 and needs it again at 221, 000. Just haven't gotten off my butt to get it done.


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## pjd (Nov 26, 2014)

I just parked my old 1997 F250 4x4 Diesel with just over 600,000 miles. I was the second owner when I bought it with 40,000 miles on it. It went through 2 transmissions and one set of glow plugs but the frame rusted away and it could no longer pass inspection. I'm going to miss that truck, It was my only asset when I started my business 14 years ago.


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