# Strawberry Wine



## scubaman2151 (Feb 6, 2008)

Hi guys. I think this is the right place to post this but anyway. 


I got this recipe from Jack Keller's website:


"
<CENTER>
<H3>Frozen Strawberry Wine</H3></CENTER>
*

*
<UL>
<LI>*3 lbs. frozen strawberries *
<LI>*1 11-oz. can Welch's 100% White Grape Juice Frozen Concentrate *
<LI>*1 lb 14 oz. light brown sugar *
<LI>*2 tsp. citric acid *
<LI>*1/4 tsp. grape tannin *
<LI>*water to make 1 gallon *
<LI>*1 tsp. yeast nutrient *
<LI>*1 sachet Red Star Côte des Blancs wine yeast *</LI>[/list]
*
*


*Thaw strawberries and grape juice concentrate. Dissolve sugar in 5 pints water and bring to boil. Strain juice or syrup from fruit and save liquid. Put thawed fruit in nylon straining bag in primary and crush fruit with hands. Pour boiling water over fruit, cover primary, and set aside to cool. When cooled to 80-85° F., add grape juice concentrate, tannin, acid, yeast nutrient, reserved juice or syrup, and 1 pint water. Stir well to blend ingredients. Add activated yeast, cover and stir daily. Do not further crush, mash or squeeze bag of strawberry pulp. Remove bag on 7th day and allow to drip drain, saving drippings. Return drippings to primary and transfer to secondary fermentation vessel. Top up to one gallon if required, attach airlock and set aside. After 45 days, rack into secondary containing 1 Campden tablet dissolved in a little wine and reattach airlock. Rack again after additional 60 days. Stabilize wine when clear and rack after additional 45 days. Bottle and age at least 6 months. [Author's own recipe]"*






I'm going to assume this makes 1 gallons of wine? What do you guys suggest to use as a nylon straining bag? Is there is a difference between using liquid/powdered grape tannin?


Scuba*Edited by: Scubaman2151 *


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## grapeman (Feb 6, 2008)

It sounds like a good recipe. I use liquid tannin because I think it mixes easier, but I believe the measure here is for powdered. Yes those recipes are for making one gallon. For the bag- you can either buy bags for the straining bags. You can buy at a wine supply store , you can get them at the paint store also or like Waldo- use one of your best pairs of nylon stockings.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 6, 2008)

If I go to a paint store what do I tell them I need, an nylon straining bag?


Scuba


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## grapeman (Feb 6, 2008)

They are just paint straining bags - usually mad out of nylon or similar material.


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## Poacher (Feb 6, 2008)

This is the recipe that I used. I started mine yesterday, and just put the yeast in a few hours ago. SG was a little high when I followed the direction, had to thin it out a bit. We got it down to 1.094.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 6, 2008)

Nice, do you have any pictures?
Scuba


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## Poacher (Feb 6, 2008)

No I even had the Camera out to take them and got all mixed up in making it and forgot to take any. I didn't have a nylon bag of any kind so I just put the pulp right in. Hopefully it will all turn out the same.


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## Poacher (Feb 6, 2008)

Waldo suggested putting in Pectic Enzym too. I didn't have any so I didn't. But Waldo knows alot more than I do so if I had it I would have used it.


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## CajunTim (Feb 6, 2008)

I have made 3 recipes from Jack Keller’s site and each was high in starting SG. Be careful with the sugar and add a little at a time until you get what you like.


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## Wade E (Feb 6, 2008)

Always adjust sugar levels as fruits sugars vary alot. Try to adjust acidity to but not as crucial. Fruit wines should have an SG of around 1.080 -1.095 tops. I usually keep mine at 1.085.

*Edited by: wade *


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 6, 2008)

Wade should I put some Petic Enzyme in and if yes, how much?


Scuba


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## swillologist (Feb 6, 2008)

I'm not an expert on this Scub but I would say yes. About a 1/2 tsp. per gallon.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 6, 2008)

Im new to this area of wine making so what excatly does petic enzyme do?


Scuba


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## Poacher (Feb 7, 2008)

Mine read around 1.096 tonight. I just put the yeast in today. So we are on the road now.


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## Poacher (Feb 7, 2008)

As far as I have read Pectic Enzyme breaks down Pectic in the wine. Pectic in wine will cause a hazing. So its a clearing agent. (I think) 


And yes it is 1/2 Tsp per gallon. Added before the yeast.*Edited by: bfletch13 *


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## JWMINNESOTA (Feb 7, 2008)

Scubaman2151 said:


> Im new to this area of wine making so what excatly does petic enzyme do?
> 
> 
> Scuba




Pectic Enzyme will increase juice yielded from fruit by breaking down the cellular structure of the fruit, allowing it to release more juice. In clearing purposes, it binds with the residual pectin (cause of pectin haze) causing it to "jell" and drop out of the must or wine. Similar to adding to fruit to make jelly.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 7, 2008)

Cool works both ways. Thanks for the info guys. I need to start getting the ingredients together.


Scuba


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 7, 2008)

Can I use liquid grape tannin instead of the powder form? If yes how much liquid should I use and still keep the recipe accurate?


I just went to Lowes and got a 2 gal white plastic paint bucket that is clean and never been used, I also got 2 nylon straining bags.


Scuba


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## Poacher (Feb 7, 2008)

Scubaman2151 said:


> I just went to Lowe's and got a 2 gal white plastic paint bucket that is clean and never been used, I also got 2 nylon straining bags.




I'm about to do the same thing. If I can draw my attention away from this forum. I think we need to swap out after its bottled to compare.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 7, 2008)

I need to mark the inside of the container so I know where 1 gallon is. Anyone know what I can safely mark the container with, permanent marker?


Scuba


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 7, 2008)

Mark it on the OUTSIDE with a heavy permanent marker...Then look at it toward a light....You don't want to mark the inside as your wine foams up a lot.


Also...there is some topics on food grade plastic....check it out. Think there is a mark on the bottom of the bucket as to what type of plastic is is made of.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 7, 2008)

I called the manufacture of the bucket and they said that yes the bucket is food grade. The bucket has a number 2 inside the recycle triangle and under it is the letters HDPE. If the bucket has those two things and is white, most likely it is food grade.


Scuba


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## Poacher (Feb 7, 2008)

Yeah the is what I have done on my buckets is fill it up with a measured amount of water. Then we marked it off on the outside of the bucket. we have even done our carboys this way.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 7, 2008)

So those nylon strain bags i got, there is a large opening in the top where the paint is poured in. How can I keep that shut so nothing comes out of the bag?


Also part of the tag for the bag is sewed into the bag lining, its like a heavy cardboard, will this hurt the wine?


Scuba


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## Poacher (Feb 7, 2008)

We squeezed it down thebest we could then just tied a knot in the top


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 7, 2008)

Maybe a zip tie? That might hurt the wine though.


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 7, 2008)

String would work to tie up the bag...cut off the cardboard tag....I hate cardboard wine...


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 7, 2008)

I cant cut it all off but I can cut off 90% of it. They literally sewed the tag into the thread of the bag, if i cut that part a big hole will be in the bag.

Scuba


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## PolishWineP (Feb 8, 2008)

That cardboard wine will leave a dry, papery flavor in your mouth.





We use either string or if it's big enough we tie the top in a knot.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 10, 2008)

Well I got a 1 gallon glass jar, Im just waiting on the chemicals to come in and then I will start this strawberry wine.


Scuba


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## Poacher (Feb 10, 2008)

Scuba 


I'm on the 4th day of fermentation with this recipe. Its going very fast, and tasting very nice. The SG drops about 0.020 everyday. this is only my second batch of wine, but its going allot faster than the kit we did. It's a very nice recipe, will be doing more of it as soon as we free up a bucket.


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## Wade E (Feb 10, 2008)

1 gallon batches go very fast so you will want to transfer to carboy around 1.030 or there abouts.


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## Poacher (Feb 10, 2008)

Well I guess I will be doing that tomorrow then. Why transfer when the SG is still that high?


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## swillologist (Feb 11, 2008)

bf, you are less like to get a stuck fermentation with the SG that high. You also get a good cap to protect you wine.


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## smokegrub (Feb 11, 2008)

Some folks do their entire fermentation in a secondary under airlock. Most do theirs in a vessel with a relatively large surface area for two reasons. First, foaming in such a vessel is easily contained. Second, during their early growth phase lots of oxygen is essential. I actually stir my primary twice a day for the first few days or until a vigorous fermentation is underway. Racking to secondary should be done while some fermentation is still underway so that a carbon dioxide cap forms over the wine and protects it from oxygen. I know that sounds weird--must needs oxygen during the yeast growth phase but will be harmed by oxygen once fermentation has ceased, but that is correct. To sum up, I transfer to secondary once vigorous fermentation has ceased and I have no concerns about the secondary foaming over.


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## Poacher (Feb 11, 2008)

AHH that explains allot. Thanks for the help. I trust what yous guys say but always like to know why to do the things you tell us. Thanks for all the help.


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 11, 2008)

I couldnt take it any longer, I started my own strawberry batch today. Found some flash frozen strawberries at grocery store and figured I would try it.


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## Poacher (Feb 11, 2008)

dcrnbrd said:


> I couldnt take it any longer, I started my own strawberry batch today. Found some flash frozen strawberries at grocery store and figured I would try it.




Awsome looks like we are starting a trend!!
Keep us posted on yours.


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 13, 2008)

I dropped the yeast this morning. Trying to figure out how to resize pics to post.


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 13, 2008)

Here is a pic of the strawberry this am after pitching yeast. Smells wonderful.


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## Waldo (Feb 14, 2008)

What size jug is that you are using dc?
Sure has a beautiful color to the must.


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## Lloyd1 (Feb 14, 2008)

That jug looks alot like one I have.
It was given to me by my elderly mother when she 'downsized' her living space.
She used it as a decorative craft item.
Inside was dirt, fake vegitation, little animals, etc.
Somthin perdy to look at ..... in her opinion.

It must have been intended for that purpose, because it has two small 'feet' pushing out the glass to make it stable as it rests on its side.


It was just sitting in storage until I saw this thread, and a light bulb came on!
I grabbed it, emptied it, and washed it off.
I dumped in a capfull of Iodophor, and started adding measured gallons of water.


It's 5 gallons when full.
I would call this a fine 5 gal primary fermenter.
It should work excellent for a 3 gal batch!*Edited by: Lloyd *


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

Well guys the chemicals just came in the mail today . I am going to go to the store tonight and get the strawberries and I will try to start this in the next day or two. 



On the pectic enzyme it says to add it about 1 hour before fermentation, should I go by this or can I just add it when I add the rest of the chemicals? 


dc: your wine looks pretyt good keep us updated on how it is coming along.


Scuba*Edited by: Scubaman2151 *


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

I am using Red Star Cote des Blancs yeast as the recipe calls for. Should I hydrate the yeast before I put it into the must? If so, how?


Scuba


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## Poacher (Feb 14, 2008)

Scubaman2151 said:


> I am using Red Star Cote des Blancs yeast as the recipe calls for. Should I hydrate the yeast before I put it into the must? If so, how?
> 
> 
> Scuba




I added my Yeast Nutrient to it, waited on day then pitched the yeast to it. Has been going strong ever since. I didn't Hydrate the yeast before. I guess mostly cause I don't know how and it didn't say to.


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 14, 2008)

Thanks waldo, it is a mason 2.5 gal circa 1949. I got it from my grandmother before she died. 


I used ec1118 yeast in mine and I put the nutrient in with the other stuff the day before I dropped the yeast.


The color is a wonderful red. I guess from all the sqeezing I gave them berries. Now do I need to pull the pulp out when I rack over to the secondary?


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

What type of string should I use to tie my nylon bag shut? I have colored yarn.


Scuba


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## Tomy (Feb 14, 2008)

Colored yarn is fine if it don't get in the must, as you don't want yarn fuzz in your teeth when drinking your wine.



Are you guys using Dole brand strawberrys, as there was 2.5 lb packages in my local store for $7 and change. Tomy


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## Poacher (Feb 14, 2008)

No need to use anything, just tie a knot in the top of the bag.


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## Poacher (Feb 14, 2008)

Tomy said:


> Colored yarn is fine if it don't get in the must, as you don't want yarn fuzz in your teeth when drinking your wine.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you guys using Dole brand strawberrys, as there was 2.5 lb packages in my local store for $7 and change. Tomy




Yeah I used Dole. It was the only kind at my store so kinda had too.


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 14, 2008)

I used a cheap pair of knee high panty hose. 50 cent at family dollar. Sulfite and dry out.


The strawberries was an organic brand 2 lbs for 4.00, on sale. SoI put 4 lbs in this recipe.


Here is a pic from today.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

Heres a pic of what I got now. 












Will the concentrate work that I got? It say"From concentrated juice cocktail". I check the ingredients and there wasn't any potassium in there at all.*Edited by: Scubaman2151 *


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## Poacher (Feb 14, 2008)

That is what I used in mine.


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 14, 2008)

I have used the white grape concentrate 100% juice in a couple recipes....The pure juice ones havea colored cap....I'm sure what you have will work fine too.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

Can I use colored yarn to tie the bag shut or do I need to use somthing else. Also the recipe says then when I transfer to secondary I should top up to 1 gal as needed. I thought I should make sure I have 1 gal to start with, right?


Scuba


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## Wade E (Feb 14, 2008)

I wouldnt use yarn but take the panty hose and tie it using itself. If you start it at 1 gallon then when you rack off sediment ou will be short and that is why when making a fruit wine that you start off with more than 1 gallon.


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 14, 2008)

All my fruit wines start out with more volume than needed to fill the carboys....Then in the end..after racking and using your extra small topping off bottles...You have a full batch of finished wine.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

Im not using panty hose, im using that nylon paint straning bag. Would a zip tie work or would that plastic interfere with the wine?


Scuba


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 14, 2008)

Is the bag big and long enough that you can you tie a knot in the top of the bag???


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

possible, but I better have a back up.


Scuba


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 14, 2008)

If you don't have any strong white thread or string....Cut a piece of the fabric off of the top...just 1/4 to 1/2" wide and tie it with that....just a suggestion!!!!!!Wash it all in plain warm water and then sulfite solution, rinse in water.


I used a straining bag a couple times and washed and dipped it in sulfite...didn't rinse it...then wondered...how much extra sulfite liquid was in the bag????*Edited by: Northern Winos *


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 14, 2008)

I have white thread, that should work ok. How about fishing line, I know I have that around here.


Scuba


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 14, 2008)

Like Mono Filament??? [Or how ever you spell it???] It is kind of plastic...might react to the wine...???? Cotton thread...several strands would work.


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## Poacher (Feb 15, 2008)

I would justclose it off by tyeing a knot in the top of the bag. I have done it this way as well as other members of the forum. Its not like the bag is going to be under pressure. Don't stress about the small things man just tie the knot and make some wine.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 15, 2008)

Lol thanks guys.


Scuba


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## Lloyd1 (Feb 15, 2008)

Scubaman2151 said:


> Heres a pic of what I got now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




This concentrate may work, but it is *not* 100% juice. ( not even close )
Read the ingredients ..... there is a small percentage of real juice.


The colored caps are a key.
The words, "*100% Juice*" are clearly printed on the good ones.
If it says, "cocktail or drink" it is a sugary mixture with a little real juice in it.
This I know for sure, becausethe 100% juiceis what we drink in our household instead of pepsi, coke, mountain dew, etc.
.


My son loves the White Grape Peach 100% juice.






Ingredients.... "white grape and apple juice concentrates, filtered water, peach juice concentrate, citric acid ( for tartness ), natural flavor, ascorbic acid ( vitamin C )."*Edited by: Lloyd *


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 15, 2008)

What I have, I assume it will still work?


Scuba


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## grapeman (Feb 15, 2008)

Lloyd has it right Scubaman. The 100% juice ones are the ones you want to use. They come in frozen microwaveable containers or concentrates in a can like soda. The 100% White is made from Niagara and contains small amounts of K-Meta to prevent browning. It will not interfere with fermentation once diluted to the strength you need. Here is a quote from their site:
*Do Welch's juice products contain preservatives?*
Welch's Purple 100% Grape Juice and juice cocktails do not contain preservatives. Welch's 100% White Grape Juice, however, does contain the preservative potassium metabisulfite, which is added to prevent browning and maintain color. Welch's Sparkling Juice Cocktails do contain the preservatives sodium benzoate and potassium metabisulfite


I have used the 100% Welch's White before with great results.


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## grapeman (Feb 15, 2008)

Scubaman2151 said:


> What I have, I assume it will still work?
> 
> 
> Scuba




Yes it will work. It just won't add as much body as you could get with the 100%. Both will raise the overall SG of the must, so check the SG before starting to add any extra sugar. You sure are doing your homework for this batch. Good going and good luck with it.


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## smokegrub (Feb 15, 2008)

In the future, look for the cans with the yellow lids.

As to the juice you have--yes it will work, but my experience is that it will ferment slowly. My wife enjoys the concord grape with the white lid. I prepare the juice according to the instructions on the can. The resulting wine is back sweetened with sugar and looks like a blush.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 15, 2008)

Lol when I went to the store, there was like literally 100 different types of these cans there so I picked this one becuase I checked the back and the list of ingredients seem ok. Maybe Ill try to return this and get a different one.


Scuba


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## WineNewbie (Feb 15, 2008)

I know I am late to this thread, but just wanted to let you know that I made this wine last year around this time using the recipe from Jack Keller. It has turned out quite nice. A nice Rose. I back sweetened it some and it is really good.


Don't be alarmed when you rack this wine. Strawberry throws a lot of sediment.


Strawberries are just just about in full swing down here in Florida. We have the Strawberry Festival in a few weeks in Plant City. I plan on getting enough berries to make six gallons this year.


Hope your strawberry wines turn out good.


Cheers,


John


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## Tomy (Feb 15, 2008)

My White Grape went into the secendary in 5 days using Cotes de blancs yeast, and was bottled after 2 1/2 months. Its a very nice tasting wine.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 15, 2008)

OK I got everything in order. I went back to the store and got 100% frozen white grape juice and it has a yellow cap  so were good there. I am starting the strawberry wine tomorrow morning, I am also going to bottle my 6 gallons of Mezza Luna Red. Lots of pictures coming tomorrow.


Scuba


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## grapeman (Feb 15, 2008)

Good luck with everything. We will be waiting for the pictures! Have fun.


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 16, 2008)

I rackedthe strawberry over this morning. SG is at 1.035.




That is a pretty red.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 16, 2008)

Looks good. 


I started my Strawberry wine this morning and I am very excited about it. It tastes great right now and is in perfect SG range. It is 1.081, it might get bumped up a little more if some more sugar from the strawberries come out. I took one picture of it, but this was right after I poured in the hot sugar water so all the steam makes the wine look really really gross. when I pitch the yeast I take a better picture. I added everything needed like the grape juice and the chemicals, I'm letting it sit right now then I will pitch the yeast later tonight. For the pulp nylon bag I just used safety pins and pinned it shut, actually work pretty well.


Scuba


Oh yeah, the power went out in the middle of me making this so that made for a fun time .*Edited by: Scubaman2151 *


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 16, 2008)

I just put yeast and pectic enzyme in:












I'm a little worried right now. The consistency of the wine is kinda syrupy, the hydrometer doesn't float freely. The temp right now is 68* F. When I took the first reading the temp was like 85*. So the sugar problem cooled down and that could be whats making the consistency so thick?


Scuba


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## Wade E (Feb 16, 2008)

I would get the temp up more at least until it starts fermenting. 1.081, was that with the adjustment for the 85 degree temp?

*Edited by: wade *


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 16, 2008)

I used a online converter and it said that at 85* the true SG would be about 1.083-1.084.I put the brew belt on it when I pitched the yeast to help get the temp up. 




Scuba*Edited by: Scubaman2151 *


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## Wade E (Feb 16, 2008)

Good job Scuba.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 17, 2008)

Well I checked on the wine this morning and the must was at about 78* and fermentation hadn't started yet. I gave it a good stir hopefully to get things moving. Could this be from me not re-hydrating the yeast before I put it into the must?


Scuba


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## grapeman (Feb 17, 2008)

The Cote des Blancs yeast is a fairly silent fermenter. It never really works up a big visible foaming head. It has only been one day. A lot of times you don't even notice anything for a few days and then it usually is only sort of a fizzing. Don't rush it. With this one, you want to retain the gentle aromas and a slow ferment is much better at that than a really vigorous quick one. This evening put your ear to it and listen for a soda like fizzing. That will be music to you ear.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 17, 2008)

Thanks apple. Ill check again tonight.
Scuba


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## Tomy (Feb 17, 2008)

Looks great Scuba.




Appleman I though I was the only one that listened to my must fizzle, sounded a bit like Rice Krispies. Tomy


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 17, 2008)

Lol I love that sound .


Scuba


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## Wade E (Feb 17, 2008)

Cotes Des Blanc is the slowest starting yeast youll ever use but it always does a good job. Ive worried quite a few times with this yeast as it has taken 3 days to start for me a couple of times.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 17, 2008)

I just checked on the must and I am happy to report fermentation has started .


Scuba


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## Wade E (Feb 17, 2008)

Glad to hear that, it really starts to worry me when its on its 3rd day and there is no signs yet.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 18, 2008)

Well I just got home and checked the must. Fermentation is really moving along, little bit of foam on top but not too bad. I am also happy to say that the syrupy consistency has almost gone away entirely.


Scuba


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 18, 2008)

Updated picture. The bag just keeps floating like that but I push it down a couple times a day. What do you think of the color, it seems more like a light orange then red.






Scuba


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 18, 2008)

The color will get better. I gave the bag a good squeezing every time I went to stir it. This gave it a lot of the color. The only thing I didnt do like your recipe is add the grape juice. I used 4 lbs of frozen strawberries. Patience is the hardest thing for me. Mine is still fermenting but it has slowede down a lot. I will check the sg later today to see where I am at.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 19, 2008)

I think I might have screwed up here. I used metal saftey pins and it looks like they are rusting. They were not rusted when I put them into the must. The color looks off as well. Ill have to see what it looks like when fermentation is over.


Scuba


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## grapeman (Feb 19, 2008)

The color is ok, but take the safety pins out to be safe. Just tie the bag in a loose knot. That's all I ever do with them and it works fine.


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## Dean (Feb 19, 2008)

Strawberry wine is usually a light orange color as k-meta will leach the nice red color out of it. Color also depends on the quality and ripeness of the fruit. Of all the strawberry wines that I have made (80+ gallons so far), only 1 batch turned out a very pretty red color. That batch I did with very overripe berries that were destined for jam. I also used about 35# for a 6 gallon batch.


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## whino-wino (Feb 19, 2008)

appleman said:


> The color is ok, but take the safety pins out to be safe. Just tie the bag in a loose knot. That's all I ever do with them and it works fine.




I would have to agree with that. Here's a pic of mine from two days ago right after I racked, degassed and added Super Kleer:








And this is from about 15 minutes ago:








The color of mine is also a bit "orange". I'd say you're progressing just fine. Keep it up! Not long and you'll have one of the best homemade wines that man can make. It's been my experience that it is almost impossible to make a bad strawberry wine.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 19, 2008)

Is it too late to take the pins out? Or have they already hurt the wine?


Scuba


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 19, 2008)

No pull them out and tie the bag. I promise the bags feelings wont be hurt. I use new panty hose so I can just throw them away. They are only 33 cents a pair at walmart.


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## whino-wino (Feb 19, 2008)

Scubaman2151 said:


> Is it too late to take the pins out? Or have they already hurt the wine?
> 
> 
> Scuba




No, it's not too late. Just pull them and remember to give it a dose of K-meta after the secondary fermentation is done. Based on the size of the batch in relation to the size of the pins, I wouldn't worry too much about any "metallic flavor" being imparted into the wine either. Just take Bobby McFerrin's advise. Don't worry, be happy!


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## NorthernWinos (Feb 19, 2008)

Cheers..to Strawberry Wine...








This one had Red Grape Concentrate in it...Has a deep rich color and a deep rich flavor....


Cheers to all Strawberry wine!!!!


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## dcrnbrd (Feb 19, 2008)

WOW Thats a nice color for strawberry. Very clear also. I can only hope comes out that nice.


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## joeswine (Feb 20, 2008)

SHORE SHES A BEAUTIFUL


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## PeterZ (Feb 20, 2008)

You can always say that this wine has been fortified with iron for its health benefits. &lt;g&gt;


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 20, 2008)

Lol true.


Scuba


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 22, 2008)

Well I racked the wine into the secondary to let it finish fermenting. When I took the bag out and took out the saftey pins the metal finish was all on the bag. They werent rusted but if you look at a safety pin it is silver, well mine came out light black because all that silver part wore off. Do you guys think that will hurt the wine? Or will those silver particals come out when I filter it later on?









Scuba


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## grapeman (Feb 22, 2008)

Scuba the safety pins are steel coated with zinc to make them the silver color. Zinc is not all that reactive and doesn't rust-just oxidizes. If you have a blackish color that is the oxidation. The color of the wine is not from rust. You will be fine, just don't use safety pins again.


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## PeterZ (Feb 22, 2008)

Scuba, the silver part didn't come off. The black is a reaction of thesilver plating (probably nickel)with the sulfite in the wine, creating a nickel sulfide complex. This is actually a good thing, as it is very tenacious and inhibits corrosion of the underlying steel.


Any metal in our winemaking process that corrodes into the wine will react with the SO2 to form insoluble precipitates that will settle out with the lees. In fact, SO2 and other reduced sulfur compounds are used in industry to remove heavy metals from wastewater streams.


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## grapeman (Feb 22, 2008)

Listen to Peter. He is right about the coating. It is likely nickel not zinc like I said(my mind shorted out and I thought nickel and typed zinc).

Most *safety pins* are constructed from wire made of either hardened brass or high carbon steel, which is then coated with nickel or gilt. To make a *safety pin*, the steel wire is plated in order to strengthen it against rust and corrosion. Brass wire will not rust. The prime reason for plating *brass safety pins* is to improve their appearance. A nickel plating will give the *safety pin* a silvery appearance. A gilt plating results in a gold colored finish. There are also black *safety pins* which are constructed using hardened brass wire, then coated in black. 
You will not be able to determine whether a *safety pin* is made of brass or steel simply by its appearance, because *brass safety pins* may be plated in nickel, and have a silvery look, and *steel pins* may be gilted and have a gold appearance. Please refer to our Specification Charts for details regarding the construction of our various *safety pins*. 
Since *brass safety pins* are more expensive than *steel pins*, they are usually chosen only when there is need for extra protection against the possibility of rust. If price is your main interest, however, ask us about our *Econo-pins*. Your savings in price is due to a construction of low carbon steel, plated in gilt or nickel; or for the greatest savings, low carbon steel, plated in zinc.


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## Travisty (Feb 22, 2008)

appleman said:


> Zinc is not all that reactive and doesn't rust-just oxidizes.




Warning: smart-a$$ comment following:


Technically, all rust is is the oxidation of iron, so really Zinc, in a way, does "rust."


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## grapeman (Feb 22, 2008)

Travisty
Warning: smart-a$$ comment following:
Technically said:


> http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/images/smilies/smiley2.gif[/img]




Huh? If rust is the oxidation of iron, why would that mean that zinc rusts?
I think what you meant is that most metals oxidize which is technically rust(but commonly refers to ferrous metals), so zinc rusts- a form commonly referred to as white rust.


If anybody is interested here is how iron rusts:



The rusting of iron is an electrochemical process that begins with the transfer of electrons from iron to oxygen.<SUP =reference id=_ref-2>[3]</SUP> The rate of corrosion is affected by water and accelerated by electrolytes, as illustrated by the effects of road salt (calcium chloride) on the corrosion of automobiles. The key reaction is the reduction of oxygen:
<DL>
<DD>O<SUB>2</SUB> + 4 e<SUP>-</SUP> + 2 H<SUB>2</SUB>O → 4 OH<SUP>-</SUP> </DD></DL>


Because it forms hydroxide ions, this process is strongly affected by the presence of acid. Indeed, the corrosion of most metals by oxygen is accelerated at low pH. Providing the electrons for the above reaction is the oxidation of iron that may be described as follows:
<DL>
<DD>Fe → Fe<SUP>2+</SUP> + 2 e<SUP>−</SUP> </DD></DL>


The following redox reaction also occurs in the presence of water and is crucial to the formation of rust:
<DL>
<DD>2 Fe<SUP>2+</SUP> + 0.5 O<SUB>2</SUB> → 2 Fe<SUP>3+</SUP> + O<SUP>2−</SUP> </DD></DL>


Additionally, the following multistep acid-base reactions affect the course of rust formation:
<DL>
<DD>Fe<SUP>2+</SUP> + 2 H<SUB>2</SUB>O ⇌ Fe(OH)<SUB>2</SUB> + 2 H<SUP>+</SUP> 
<DD>Fe<SUP>3+</SUP> + 3 H<SUB>2</SUB>O ⇌ 2 Fe(OH)<SUB>3</SUB> + 3 H<SUP>+</SUP> </DD></DL>


as do the following dehydration equilibria:
<DL>
<DD>Fe(OH)<SUB>2</SUB> ⇌ FeO + H<SUB>2</SUB>O 
<DD>Fe(OH)<SUB>3</SUB> ⇌ FeO(OH) + H<SUB>2</SUB>O 
<DD>2 FeO(OH) ⇌ Fe<SUB>2</SUB>O<SUB>3</SUB> + H<SUB>2</SUB>O </DD></DL>


From the above equations, it is also seen that the corrosion products are dictated by the availability of water and oxygen. With limited dissolved oxygen, iron(II)-containing materials are favoured, including FeO and black lodestone (Fe<SUB>3</SUB>O<SUB>4</SUB>). High oxygen concentrations favour ferric materials with the nominal formulae Fe(OH)<SUB>3-x</SUB>O<SUB>x/2</SUB>. The nature of rust changes with time, reflecting the slow rates of the reactions of solids. Furthermore, these complex processes are affected by the presence of other ions, such as Ca<SUP>2+</SUP>, which both serve as an electrolyte, and thus accelerate rust formation, or combine with the hydroxides and oxides of iron to precipitate a variety of Ca-Fe-O-OH species.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 22, 2008)

Lol thanks for the help guys, although I got lost after Travisty posted. Something came off of the pins becuase when I took them out there was little flecks of silver on the bag right where the pins were. But yeah lesson learned dont use saftey pins.


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## Travisty (Feb 22, 2008)

appleman said:


> I think what you meant is that most metals oxidize which is technically rust(but commonly refers to ferrous metals), so zinc rusts- a form commonly referred to as white rust.




Yeah, that is what I meant. You had said earlier that "zinc does not rust, it only oxidizes," as if rust was not simply an oxidized material itself.


I was only trying to make a joke, and I don't think it came across the way I intended over the interweb.My bad.


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## PeterZ (Feb 25, 2008)

Apple, nice summary of the corrosion process. In the presence of SO3- you can also get iron pyrite - fool's gold.


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## grapeman (Feb 25, 2008)

How is the strawberry doing Scuba? I hope it is beginning to clear a little so you don't need to worry about it. It will turn out great I'm sure.


Also, if you need help with the Concord vines on your Arbor, a few of the guys here have similar arbors they could give you a little pruning help also. Pop a few of your pictures here in the Home Vineyards section and just copy and paste text between two windows, one here and one from the other site. Bmorosco has a very similar arbor.


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## scubaman2151 (Feb 25, 2008)

Thanks for the help Apple. I will do that some time tonight. As for the wine it is coming along nice. Starting to clear and there seems to be quite a bit of sediment on the bottom. The color is ok, still more orange then anything else.


Scuba


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2008)

Scub:
I've been laughing since I started reading this thread.


Rule number one in any wine making process is always practicehighsanitation.
Rule numberone in any process is that unknown shortcuts or substitutions usually lead to disaster.


My advice, for what it's worth,is simple here.


Buy an oversizedstraining bag from George (Fine Vine Wines). 
1. There's no confusion as to how to seal it. If you tie an oversizedbag neck you don't have pins that rust, twisties that rust, yarn that might infect your wine with bacteria or any other uglies that could damage your precious product including fish guts or yard trimmings.
2. It's guaranteed to work properly. Manufacturers of wine straining bags guaranty their product from harmful meanies that might damage your precious product. Manufacturers of paint strainers, don't care.
3. Keep as much junk out of your wine as you can, including your hands. Nasty buggers don't you know? Just think where your hands have been all day and you might think twice about putting them in your wine much less your mouth. Use a stainless spoon after sanitizingto press your fruit pulp bag. That's all you really need anyway.
4. If you start your fermentation in a vessel that's at least 1/2 gallon more than your primary, hence the 7 gallon, plastic primary bucket, you'll have more than enough to transfer to your secondary 6 gallon carboy and still have more to top off and later back sweeten with.


Looking forward to the next thread!


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## swillologist (Feb 29, 2008)

Heck handyman I thought you were supposed to use your bare feet to press your fruit plup bag.



I have been doing it wrong all this time


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## Guest (Feb 29, 2008)

It's the toe cheese that really gives it mouthfeel.


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## acesover (Mar 3, 2008)

hi i started a strawberry wine yesterday i only have laven 1118 yeast will it be ok or should i get the 1112? what would the difference be? thanks


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## Wade E (Mar 3, 2008)

The 1112 might be a better bet as it is a slower fermentation and will bring out a little more flavor. The 1118 is labeled as good for white wines which is kind of weird cause it says its a fast fermenter and whites are supposed to ferment slow. I really dont think there is a heck of a difference between any of these yeasts besides alc. tolerences. There will be suttle differences but most wont ever tell the difference.


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## scubaman2151 (Mar 3, 2008)

Here is a updated picture:


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## Wade E (Mar 3, 2008)

Looks like its got pretty good color.


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## scubaman2151 (Mar 4, 2008)

It seems like it came out kinda dark in that picture. It seems to me to be lighter then that.


Scuba


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## Wade E (Mar 4, 2008)

It will lighten up a lot more once clear.


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## scubaman2151 (Apr 14, 2008)

Ok I have been checking this wine for awhile now and its time for a update. I am very happy with how well this wine is clearing, it has dropped quite a bit of lees (about 1/2'') and has lost that orange color, it is now a nice light dark red. Ill rack it here in a week or so, I just have to get to the dollar store and get some marbles.


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2008)

Hey Scub:
Another way to do this is to simply set your drop siphon into the bottle and leave it aloneand take everything that comes out.


The majority of material that's higher than the top of the blacksiphon wand tipwill settledownward rather than toward the siphon when the must drops to that level.


You'll get some lees, yes, but not nearly as much as what you have now and another siphon later that week or next will remove all the rest without sacrificing any of your must.


Good luck.


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## whino-wino (Apr 15, 2008)

I don't know if it's just me, but I've noticed in the past with the Strawberry wines that I've madethat it will clear perfectly, then for some reason throw quite a bit of sediment later on. Anyone else notice this? It seems to me that strawberry is one of the worst culprits for this when making fruit wines. It might be important to note that I've always frozen my strawberries first, so that might have something to do with it. 


As long as you bulk age at least 2 months this doesn't seem to be a problem, but it will throw sediment in the carboy during this time, even if it _seems_ brilliantly clear when you start the aging process. At least that's been my experience.


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## scubaman2151 (May 26, 2008)

Well I just racked it again today and I wasnt liking the results. It smelled and tasted like metal, probley from when I screwed up and used those saftey pins, that meta rubbed off. Ill let it settle and try again but this wine may be getting dumped out .


Scuba


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## Wade E (May 26, 2008)

Never dump it scuba. Bottle it and let it sit for a few months and i bet youll be surprised.


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## Wade E (May 26, 2008)

Never dump it scuba. Bottle it and let it sit for a few months and I bet youll be surprised. If I dumped 1/2 the batches I didnt like at first my cellar would only be 1/2 full. My Ice wine was so disgusting when I bottled it that I didnt touch it for over a year and finally got up the nerve to open a bottle 2 weeks ago and was so suprised that I will most likely enter it in a competition now.


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## Joanie (May 26, 2008)

Scuba remember that fruit wines are notorious for needing LOTS of aging. Jack Keller will tell you not to think about touching some for 2 years! Bottle it and forget about it--out of sight, out of mind!


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## scubaman2151 (May 26, 2008)

I knew you guys were going to tell me to let this one age and I will go with you on it. I just havent had a good feeling about this wine from the start with the metal coming off the saftey pins then looking at it today and smelling and tasting the metal, but I have a few corks lying around and some bottles so ill bottle it and forget it . Then ill test it out on unspecting friends to make sure it is ok



. 


Scuba*Edited by: Scubaman2151 *


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## grapeman (May 26, 2008)

I like your testing methods!


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## Waldo (May 27, 2008)

I would plan on a minimum of 1 year befoe I even tried it scuba. Strawberry likes to be coddled and aged. Sing something reallynice to it when bottling too


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## rrawhide (May 27, 2008)

Hi all

question - can you add wine concentrate after fermentation or just during?

fermentation is just about done on my strawberry and wondering if I can still add.

Thanx for comeback.

rrawhide


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## Joanie (May 27, 2008)

I have never done that so I don't know!


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## Wade E (May 27, 2008)

Have never doe it either but I would wait till its stabilized before adding as it probably has sugar in it and will up the abv unless you feel it needs a boost in that area to.


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## NorthernWinos (May 27, 2008)

I use WinExpert Grape Concentrates in most of our fruit wines...I always add it at the beginning.

I had read someplace that it can be added at any point during the wine making process....

So...I think you could add it now, it would add body, sweetness and flavor...Give it some time and keep an eye on it and be sure to add Sorbate at bottling.

And...Be sure to share your experience with us...


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## joeswine (May 27, 2008)

IF I MIGHT ASK&lt;WHYWOULD YOU WANT TO PUT A CONCENTRATE IN ANY FRUIT WINE,THE CONCENTRATATION SHOULD BE IN THE FRUIT TO START WITH&lt;IF THE FRUIT YOUR USEING IS IN PEAK TASTE AND QUALITY,I KNOW THATS NOT ALWAYS POSSIBLE DARE I SAY I HAD MY SHARE OF FAILURES THE ONLY CONCENTRATE GOING INTO MY WINE IS WHAT EVER ITS MAIN BODY IS,,RASSTO A RASS CONCENTRATE AND SO ON ,IF I NEED TO ADD BODY THATS A HOLE DIFFERENT AMNIMAL,AND VERY DOABLE&lt;MAKING A (F) PACK ISN'T THAT HARD TO DO AND ONCE YOU'VE TRIED IT YOU WON'T GO BACK,I KNOW EVEYONE HAS A DIFFERENT CONCIPT OF HOW THEIR FINISHED PRODUCT SHOULD FINISH OUT AND I RESPECT THAT,I JUST CAN'T SEE ADDING CONCENTRATES OTHER THAN WHAT THE BASE IS TO ENHANCE THE ORIGINAL PRODUCT&lt;JUST MY THOUGHTS&lt;WITH ALL DO RESPECT TO OTHERS/////////////


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## NorthernWinos (May 27, 2008)

Does an 'F - Pack' add sweetness??? What is in it????

We like dry red wines with different fruit flavors....seems lately I have been adding more grape concentrates and less fruit juices...but still get the fruit flavors coming through.

So many fruits to try.

Just our personal tastes I guess....


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## joeswine (May 28, 2008)

SAY I WAS GOING TO MAKE RASSBERRY WINE HAVE #)LBS OF BERRIES,PRESS THE JUICE OUT OF THEM&lt;WITH THE LEFT OVER MASH I THEN WOULD DIVIDE it UP INTO TWO PARTS,SOME BECOME MY MUST,AND THE BALANCE I WOULD SLOWLY COOK WITH SUGAR ,NOT A LOT JUST EN OUGHT TO SWEETEN COOK DOWN INTO A PUREE,LET COOL AND PLACE IN COLD STORAGE UNTIL USE OR FREEZE IN A AIR TIGHT CONTAINER TILL NEEDED,AFTER PRIMARY AND WHAT EVER I NEED TO PREP FOR FINDING AND BOTTLING I TASTE AND ADD THE PURE PUREE AS NEEDED REINTRODUCING THE RASPBERRY FRUIT BACK TO THE MIX LET SET FOR A WEEK OR SO TASTE AND IF NEEDED BACK SWEETEN WITH SIMPLE SYRUP TO MY DESIRED LEVEL,THATS HOW TO MAKE AND USE AN F PACK MY STYLE DOESN'T MATTER WHAT TYPE OF FRESH FRUIT,MAKING THE PUREE AND slowly SIMMERING TO BREAK THE FRUIT DOWN IS THE KEY ,NOT TO COOK THE FLAVOR OUT OF THE RAW PRODUCT,USUALLY 5gallon and 3gallon batches are good for fruit forward style wines,abv about 12% to 13.5 max
abv./brix about 22////////////////well at least thats my style,its more work but the results are worth it//////////////




http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&amp;ref=12*Edited by: joeswine *


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## joeswine (May 28, 2008)

NW MAY BE THE DIFFERENCE IS THE INTENSITY OF THE FINISH PRODUCT SEE WHEN I OPEN A BOTTLE OF MY BLACKBERRY AND STICK MY NOISE IN IT IT SMELLS LIKE BLACBBERRY JAM&lt;SAME WITH THE RASSBERRY AND PLUM OPEN THEM UP AND DEEP AROMA AND FLAVOR&lt; BUT THEN I,AM PARCIAL,ITS TAKEN ME A WHILE TO GET HERE BUT I BELIEVE MY FRUIT WINES ARE WITH THE BEST ON THE MARKET,ALSO I MAKE A RASSBERRY SHARAZ AND A BLACKBERRY PINOT NOIR BOTH FINISH VERY NICE///////////THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS





http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&amp;ref=12


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## NorthernWinos (May 28, 2008)

I had been using between 22-25 pounds of fruit per 5-6 gallon batch of wine, would add only 2 bottles of grape concentrate....the fruit taste was very pronounced. The red grape concentrate gives it a beautiful color and doesn't change the flavor, just smooths it out a bit. 

Now I am getting into more grape and using equivalent of 10 pounds of fruit, still getting a nice fruit flavor but like the complexity a bit more. Have been using Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Burgundy concentrates....want to try some inexpensive kits and boost them with about only 10 pounds of fruit.

We really like the raspberry/apple wine, a very nice mix. Also made a Niagara [store bought juice] with raspberry.....

So many fruits....so many wines...too few carboys.


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## whino-wino (May 28, 2008)

Scubaman2151 said:


> I knew you guys were going to tell me to let this one age and I will go with you on it. I just havent had a good feeling about this wine from the start with the metal coming off the saftey pins then looking at it today and smelling and tasting the metal, but I have a few corks lying around and some bottles so ill bottle it and forget it . Then ill test it out on unspecting friends to make sure it is ok
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I have a friend at work who is also into this hobby and has been doing it for over 20 years. He's the one that got me started doing this. I was talking to him a while back and mentioned the strawberry winethat I was making. He told me that he had never had good luck with frozen strawberries because in his opinion frozen strawberries leave a "metallic" taste and he insisted that only fresh ones should be used. I happen to disagree with this as I made a batch from frozen strawberries back in '05 and did not open a bottle until about a year later and it was wonderful. Perhaps his theory has merit right away but I firmly believe that if this is the case, the metallic taste will definitley go away with time.


Your "unsuspecting" friends will not be disappointed if you let it sit long enough. Just stick a tag on the bottle stating "Do not open until Memorial day '09" and I'm confident you'll like the results.


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## joeswine (May 29, 2008)

i agree with you on the frozen berry concept,we use frozen fruit all the time in place of fresh when flash frozen correctly not a problem most times sugar adjust ment is required, just like fresh ,but not a problem you need to watch for the water content of the fruit when flash frozen this can, but not always renders the fruit very moist sometimes soggy but usually not a problem,this product is perfect for making fruit (f) packs with we have a vender at sams club thatfreezes bags of,mix berries,strawberries and blueberries frozen,fun to play with in mix and match combo's with red wines and whites .what do you think.......... you can really make a concentrate oout of these!!!!!!!!!!!! 






































http://www.sweetim.com/s.asp?im=gen&amp;ref=12*Edited by: joeswine *


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## scubaman2151 (Dec 26, 2008)

Hello again guys. 


So a question on this strawberry wine. Its been sitting in my basement now still for some time and I decided its time to do something with it. However I am still concerned about what happened when I fermented it. Remember how I closed the bag with safety pins, well during the fermentation the silver coating on the pins came off. I didn't see any floating in the wine, nor can I remember seeing any after fermentation. I wanted to know though if you think the wine is still safe to drink? Also I plan on back sweeting this a little bit, any idea how much sugar I should add to achieve something near a light to medium sweetness. Nothing major but enough so you know its a sweeter wine.


Thanks,


Scubaman2151


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## scubaman2151 (Dec 26, 2008)

I just went back and re-read all the posts and I think im fine, just wanted to triple check before bottling lol.


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## Rocky_Top (Dec 26, 2008)

I think you will be ok. Most metals turn dark in wine. Most people need more iron.


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## scubaman2151 (Dec 26, 2008)

lol, Scubas strawberry wine, fortified.


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## Waldo (Dec 27, 2008)

I think you will be fine with it scuba..have you tasted it?


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## scubaman2151 (Dec 27, 2008)

Yep, I didnt notice anything wrong with it but then again I have never had strawberry wine or a fruit wine to compare it to. I think its ok though.


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## gaudet (Dec 27, 2008)

Thanks for all the info contained in this thread. I plan to make a 5 or 6 gallon batch this spring. And hope to be enjoying some of it in the spring of 2010.


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