# Picking up my grapes in the morning



## geek (Oct 3, 2014)

-4 lugs of Sangiovese, Amador brand
-2 lugs of Cab Sav, Amador brand
-1 lug of Merlot, Lodi

Will let the vendor do the crushing, so bringing a 20gal brute

Plan:
-crush and mix all together (don't want to separate fermentation)
-add a bit of k-meta (how much?)
-check for PH and maybe TA and adjust PH if needed
-bring home and let it sit for 12 hours
-add some bentonite?
-hydrate RC212 yeast, 3 packets, with Go Ferm (what's a good ratio, 20 grams sounds ok for this batch?).
-pitch yeast
-Fermaid K when SG drops 1/3 and maybe a bit more at half way
-when fermentation is done, rack and let it sit for a day
-rack back into a demi-john
-hydrate half the package of MLB VP41 with Acti-ML
-pitch VP41
-add Opti Malo Plus within a week or two to add nutrients

Would you add any pectic enzyme and when?

Thoughts?

.


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## cmason1957 (Oct 3, 2014)

I always add some pectic enzyme sometime after crush. 

Another thing you may want two buckets, you have 7 lugs at about 36 lbs each. That's 300 lbs of grapes, I think that will be hard to move in just one bucket and may not fit into one. 

Bentonite, I don't. 

I always add the Opti-malo with the malolactic, but I don't have the directions right here in front of me.


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 3, 2014)

I think you have a good plan. Go with it. I would do the pH check before pitching, not at the source. 

SO2 at 50 ppm at crush. Bentonite should not be necessary if you are aging for more than 6 months.


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## ibglowin (Oct 3, 2014)

Are these 36lb lugs?

If so you need another Brute. You only have room (really) for (3) 36lb lugs in a 20G Brute.

Also I see no Llalzyme EX nor any Opti-Red nor any Tannin FT Rouge in the mix.

Also RC212 yeast??????

Thats one step up from EC1118…….

Just my $0.02 here.


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## geek (Oct 3, 2014)

Man, I just got back from Walmart and got the 20gal brute, I was doing the math based on each 36lbs lug would yield ~2.5 gallons, so I said around 17 gallons....


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## geek (Oct 3, 2014)

ibglowin said:


> Are these 36lb lugs?
> 
> If so you need another Brute. You only have room (really) for (3) 36lb lugs in a 20G Brute.
> 
> ...



I think RC212 may be a good choice for the varietals, you lost me saying it's one step up from EC1118....
Not good?

I think you're right about the brute....


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## Rocky (Oct 3, 2014)

Varis, I was going to add the same comment that Mike made regarding your Brute containers. I would bring two if I were you.


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## cintipam (Oct 3, 2014)

Just to be safe no comment about checking SG and adding sugar to maybe 1.090? Sounds like OP is really looking for a game plan and that is an important point.

If I'm being too simple here, sorry, but better to say now than wish I had later.

Pam in cinti


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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

Boatboy24 said:


> SO2 at 50 ppm at crush. Bentonite should not be necessary if you are aging for more than 6 months.



I haven't graduated on that topic yet..
So roughly how many tsp of k-meta is that ?

EDIT: found this info and sounds like roughly a bit more than just a 1/4 tsp for a 15gal batch, give or take.....is that right?

http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/measures.asp

.


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## ibglowin (Oct 4, 2014)

SO2 should be .33gms per gallon of must. Do you have a scale?

No need for any Bentonite. That is a kit additive and not needed for fresh grapes as they will clear on their own easily.

Yeast should be added ~1g per gallon of must.


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## ibglowin (Oct 4, 2014)

That is WAY too much for a 20G Brute. The cap will add another 6-8" plus you need room to punch down and stir the must without spilling or sloshing it out the top.



geek said:


> Man, I just got back from Walmart and got the 20gal brute, I was doing the math based on each 36lbs lug would yield ~2.5 gallons, so I said around 17 gallons....


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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

Brix and PH numbers 





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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

ibglowin said:


> SO2 should be .33gms per gallon of must. Do you have a scale?
> 
> No need for any Bentonite. That is a kit additive and not needed for fresh grapes as they will clear on their own easily.
> 
> Yeast should be added ~1g per gallon of must.



I don't have a scale Mike, so I did about 2 1/2 tsp of k-meta


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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

I put everything into a 32gal brute.

Adding 17gr of Opti Red to the must in a little bit (poured directly into the brute and stir?), it is very cold so I'll let it sit for 24 hours before I pitch the yeast.


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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

Also, after mixing all crush in the brute the guy measured the PH (stirred must well) and he said PH came up to 3.39, so I will leave it alone, what you guys think?
I am guessing it may be a bit higher because I don't think he calibrated his PH and based on my grapes it should be higher. These are the brix/ph numbers according to them:

Sangiovese brix=27 ph=3.37
Ca Sav brix=28 ph=3.75
Merlot brix=28 ph=3.66

.


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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

Punched down really well, must temp is still around the 50F.

Calibrated my PH55 and checked PH around a few times, it is ~*3.52*

What you think about this PH?

..


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## ibglowin (Oct 4, 2014)

Don't touch it. Thats pretty perfect. Did you get a TA on it yet? Recheck it tomorrow as well after all the juice has had time to mix and settle.


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## ibglowin (Oct 4, 2014)

Are you going to leave it at the Brix level? What did the mix end up at? I would take it down a notch (acidulated water) unless you like rocket fuel.


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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

ibglowin said:


> Don't touch it. Thats pretty perfect. Did you get a TA on it yet? Recheck it tomorrow as well after all the juice has had time to mix and settle.




No TA, I don't think I have something to test it, plus since that ph seems to be in nice range I want to leave it alone.
I thought a ph around 3.40 would be ideal, but assume the fermentation may bring it down?



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## geek (Oct 4, 2014)

ibglowin said:


> Are you going to leave it at the Brix level? What did the mix end up at? I would take it down a notch (acidulated water) unless you like rocket fuel.




Never used that...so leave as is?
Haven't checked SG, must is thick so will do in the morning before pitching yeast.
Added like 12gr opti red and 3 tsp regular pectic enzyme.

Punched down really good.



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## Boatboy24 (Oct 4, 2014)

3.52 is about as good as you can be pre ferment. Don't mess with it. What is your final brix?


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## ibglowin (Oct 4, 2014)

A refractometer makes it easy to check Brix and can be had for cheap on Amazon. Sounds like you need some winemaking tools! A Micro Scale can be had on Amazon for like $15 as well. A TA test kit can be had for $10 from More Wine. Checking SG with a Hydrometer is tough with all the solids floating around. I get fruit from the same area you got and they come in around 27-28 Brix. I end up adding close to a gallon of acidulated water to bring the Brix down to 24-25 or so. I don't want to drink 15.5% ABV wine…….

Your pH should drop a little post fermentation but will then rise post MLF. You want to end up around 3.5-3.6 after all is is said and done.


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

Ok guys, I took a sample with my wine thief just now with hydrometer and here's what I see:

SG ~1.12
Brix ~26

I plan to pitch yeast at noon today....but the must temp is 60F....

.


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## ibglowin (Oct 5, 2014)

You do realize that comes out to a 16.5% ABV Wine…….

Put a heating pad under the Brute on Medium to warm up the must.



geek said:


> Ok guys, I took a sample with my wine thief just now with hydrometer and here's what I see:
> 
> SG ~1.12
> Brix ~26
> ...


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

Ballpark how much acidulated water would I need for this 7-case batch and where you get that from?

14% ABV would be a good spot for me.


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## ibglowin (Oct 5, 2014)

Here you go:

Acidulated Water


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

geez....thanks Mike, but how do I tell how many gallos of must I have based on 7 lugs/36 lbs each crushed?
I have liquid tartaric acid, the one that came with the MLF test kit.

.


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## ibglowin (Oct 5, 2014)

Yea, you don't want to use that! Do you have a local home brew store open today that you could get to and pick up at around 8 oz of Tartaric Acid. With your must cold you have time.

As far as how much finished wine, that all depends on the varietal. Some make more wine than others. I made 6 lugs of Sangiovese last year and ended up with 17 gallons of finished wine. I had to add a gallon of acidulated water to each brute that had 3 lugs each as the Brix was around 28 or so. Usually a more normal amount is around 2.3 gallons a lug of finished wine.


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

I don't have a store open today.....almost crying out loud....
The only acid I have is acid blend....

Stirred and re-check with my hydrometer, the must liquid feels a bit thick but the hydrometer usually stays around the SG 1.12 and brix around 26 after a couple tests.
I appreciate all the guidance, I want to make this a very good batch...


I wonder if the must will hold until tomorrow, that would be 48 hours after crush....

I don't know the TA but always thought the most important is PH.
I have a PH55 meter and some Sodium Hydroxide solution 0.2N, but never attempted checking TA.

With the PH around 3.52, would it be safe to just add that acidulated water without checking the TA?
How much spring water to 8oz. tartaric acid?

Found a water dilution calculator, just need to figure out how much total tartaric acid:
http://vinoenology.com/calculators/chaptalization-and-water-dilution/

.
.


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## ibglowin (Oct 5, 2014)

If you have a plastic syringe of sorts to be able to accurately deliver/dispense NaOH and your must sample you should be able to wing it with the pH meter. 

Use 15ml of must sample, add 20ml of distilled water to the sample swirl well and put your pH meter in. Add your NaOH drop wise until your pH reaches 8.2. Go slow when you get around 7.0 and swirl with each drop. Your TA using this strength NaOH and this sample size is an easy 1:1 measurement. For every ml added of NaOH you have 0.1% TA so if you add 6 ml NaOH your TA is 0.6% or 6 g/L.

23gm of pure Tartaric Acid in 1 gallon of filtered water (not distilled) will make a 0.6% Acidulated water which should lower the Brix but not dilute out your acid unless it is higher than that which is possible. If you have 17 gallons of must I would start with a gallon and see where that gets you. I put 3 lugs into my 20G Brutes each and end up with around 10 gallons of must. I added almost a gallon to mine to lower the Brix from 28 to 24.5 or so. It is easiest to use a refractometer to do this but I understand you don't have one so using your Hydrometer in a graduated cylinder is about your only way to do it. Try and get a clean a juice sample as possible with no skins or seeds and allow your hydrometer time to settle.

I would find some Acid some way today or wait till tomorrow. You can cool the must down with some dry ice if you want to. A pound or two should cool it down into the 40's.


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

Ok, let me try that, I don't have distilled water but spring water in a gallon, I assume ok to use spring water for the TA test?

Thanks Mike for hand holding me through this...


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## ibglowin (Oct 5, 2014)

No you need to use distilled water for the TA test.


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

As I was waiting, I found this post by Steve:
http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f71/how-take-acid-test-ph-meter-11244/

So I used no water. Calibrated my ph55 with 7 and 4 solutions.

Used 10ml of must and started adding 1ml of the NaOh solution.
At 4ml the ph was over 7 but then I screwed up and added 1ml and it shoot up to 8.53

So I think it is a bit over 4ml of NaOh solution added, isn't that a real low TA (say 4.25x.75=around 3.2)

???


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

Re-tested.
4 ml and ph ~8.04
Added a drop and ph ~8.23


NOTE: my solution is the *0.2N*

.


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## ibglowin (Oct 5, 2014)

If you use 0.2N NaOH you need use at 15ml sample. Try that with no water. Go SLOW at the end!


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## geek (Oct 5, 2014)

I'll try in the morning with a 15ml must sample, this time I will not calibrate my ph55 because I ran out of the 4 buffer solution.
Will head to HBS and get some tartaric acid, hope I can pitch yeast by 2pm....


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## ibglowin (Oct 5, 2014)

Why are you throwing out your buffer solutions?


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

Tested with 15ml of must.
Added 7ml plus around 5 drops of sodium hydroxide solution to get ph~8.23

Ph meter not calibrated and it measured ph a bit higher in must prior to test, so instead of 3.5x it was in the 3.6x
So....TA....rounding the solution used to 7.25 ml can I conclude the TA ~5.5 give or take, just a hair low?

.


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

The pH will drift up as potassium leaches out of the skins. This is normal. The formula I gave you is a 1:1 formula. For every ml of NaOH (0.2N) and a 15ml sample size you get 0.1% TA.

If you added 7ml of NaOH your TA is 0.7% which is perfectly within range. Why did you not measure the 5 drops? Thats could be 0.2ml so your actual TA is probably more like 0.72% or 7.2g/L which is fine. Now go get your Tartaric and add 23g/gallon of filtered water Add to the jug and shake for a minute then pour in and mix well. Recheck your Brix. You might need more but its better to add a little at a time.


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

Feeling better with the numbers Mike....I spent the whole day really stressed out and not a good night of sleep....

just got to the office to only work in the morning and heading out to the place by noon...

THANK YOU.

I will get back to this later this afternoon.

EDIT: there's no way the serynge I used can tell me *exactly *how much 0.2N I used (it is by eye ball sort of speak), I know is was somewhere around 7ml and maybe the 5 drops were .25 but there was a little air bubble in it, so TA may be withing good numbers.

I have a sample for the LHBS guy to check for me anyways.

..


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

The first time we do this we are all clueless. I felt the same way when I started. You might see if the home brew store has a TA kit or at least a decent 10ml syringe you could buy. You may need 2 gallons of acidulated water but add one and check Brix.


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

The syringe has a scale but only down to 1ml on each line, nothing in between, so I will check another one.


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

You need something like this with decent graduations on it.


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## berrycrush (Oct 6, 2014)

geek said:


> The syringe has a scale but only down to 1ml on each line, nothing in between, so I will check another one.



I use a small electronic weight scale with 0.01g sensitivity. I measure the weight instead of the volume then convert it. I found it lot more convenient than reading volumes off a pipette or syringe.


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## berrycrush (Oct 6, 2014)

geek said:


> Brix and PH numbers
> 
> View attachment 18128
> 
> ...



Is this from m&m? What a long selection list which I wish my local supplier can feature. I find it interesting just reading it and comparing the characteristics of each variety. Thanks for sharing


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

That would work also as long as your scale is accurate and trustwrthy. The OP doesn't have a scale however.




berrycrush said:


> I use a small electronic weight scale with 0.01g sensitivity. I measure the weight instead of the volume then convert it. I found it lot more convenient than reading volumes off a pipette or syringe.


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

Ok Mike, added about 1gal and a quarter of acidulated water, SG seems to be in the ~1.093 give or take.


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

That sounds much better. Have you estimated your must volume? Use the formula for volume of a cylinder and take measurements of your Brute and must height.


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

ibglowin said:


> That sounds much better. Have you estimated your must volume? Use the formula for volume of a cylinder and take measurements of your Brute and must height.




No I have not. It was close to the rim of the brute.


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

Still having a hard time getting a good SG reading because the Hydrometer is not freely moving or bouncing because the must is thick, trying to filter some liquid and will try again.
So far I have used one and a half gallon of acidulated water.
I was also getting a reading of 1.100


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 6, 2014)

Varis,

I don't have a refractometer, so I feel your pain. What I do is partially submerge a fine mesh strainer into the must and scoop out the liquid inside the strainer with a measuring cup or some other large cup. I can then take that sample and pour it into a test tube and put the hydrometer in there. Obviously, there are still some solids, but very small solids and not nearly as many as if you just scooped a sample directly from the primary.


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

Close to the top rim of a 32 gallon Brute?



geek said:


> No I have not. It was close to the rim of the brute.


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

After adding 1 and 3/4 of a gallon of that water it is close to the rim.
The SG seems to be around 1.100 so I think I am going to pitch the yeast and don't mess with it more?????


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

hydrated 4 packets of RC212 with go ferm and pitched...let's pray to the Lord...


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## cmason1957 (Oct 6, 2014)

geek said:


> No I have not. It was close to the rim of the brute.



If you are close to the rim of your fermenting bucket, you will probably need to split this into two buckets. You need 18 inches or more for your cap to rise up. Otherwise all that stuff will be all over the floor.


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 6, 2014)

I agree with cmason. If you haven't formed a cap and are near the top, you are going to have BIG problems. Separate some juice and grapes into another container. You can blend back when you rack to secondary.


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

I am confused, 7 lugs should have fit easily into a 32 gallon Brute with room to spare. Can you post a pic?


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## geek (Oct 6, 2014)

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## Boatboy24 (Oct 6, 2014)

That's going to be close!!


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## ibglowin (Oct 6, 2014)

Yep! Gonna be close for sure. You still have the 20G Brute or did you take it back?


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## geek (Oct 7, 2014)

I took it back.


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## ibglowin (Oct 7, 2014)

You better have something close by in case that blows up. A 7G plastic fermenter etc.


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 7, 2014)

ibglowin said:


> You better have something close by in case that blows up. A 7G plastic fermenter etc.



Agree. In fact, I'd probably just go ahead and remove some to a bucket, then blend it back together for secondary.


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## geek (Oct 7, 2014)

Must temp ~69F.
PH ~3.6x (without calibrating meter this time)

Slow fermentation but is going. Used 4 packets of RC212 hydrated with Go-Ferm.

Would you ferment a red at this temp and let it take longer?
I hear it is good or ok for whites, not sure about reds.

I only have 9gr of Fermaid K (need to buy more), would you add just that or wait and buy more and add the proper amount needed? (about 18gr)


After so much trouble checking SG yesterday I don't even want to check it today.
I know I should wait until SG ~1.070 in my case (taking the 1.100 as the starting SG)
.


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## ibglowin (Oct 7, 2014)

Your meter doesn't need to be calibrated with each use. Once a month is fine if its working normally. What is the ROOM temp? Is the Brute sitting on concrete or carpet? It should take off in a day or two depending on conditions. I add 1/2 Fermaid K after 24 hours and then the other half about 48-72 hours later.


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## geek (Oct 8, 2014)

Basement temp is around 68 and must temp now 70F. Measured with ph meter.

PH around 3.57

Cap is swollen up now.
Brute sitting on pallet with a cardboard.

I will mix the 9gr fermaid k with a bit of water and throw it in.



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## ibglowin (Oct 8, 2014)

Ideally you want the temps up in the low 80's for a day or so for good color extraction. Some yeast are better and that than others. I would set it on the floor on some carpet so it doesn't lose heat out the bottom sitting on a pallet will allow heat loss. You can also wrap the can in a blanket to give it some insulation My winery is around 68 as well and my temps got up to 78 to almost 80 for a day or so and then slowly dropped back. I have 3 stragglers that have decent caps still after 9 days but I can tell they are working and finishing out. No off smells. I will press them tomorrow after work more than likely.


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## geek (Oct 9, 2014)

Checked it now.

Must temp ~80F
PH 3.42

Couldn't check SG but I know it is still high.
Will throw in an additional 9 or 10gr Fermaid K tonight. Ran out of it so driving 60 miles round trip to closest HBS. I have regular yeast nutrient, should I use this instead and avoid the trip?

Big cap, punching about 3 times daily.



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## ibglowin (Oct 9, 2014)

Fermaid K is a much better product which includes nutrients. Yeast energizer is basically like crack cocaine for yeast. Big hit of N2 but nothing else to assist with keeping them happy AND healthy.


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## geek (Oct 9, 2014)

Mike, not yeast energizer but yeast nutrient.
I'm heading out to get Fermaid K anyways...


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 9, 2014)

geek said:


> Mike, not yeast energizer but yeast nutrient.
> I'm heading out to get Fermaid K anyways...



Think long and hard while you're in the car about what you'll need over the next 60 days. Don't want to be making that trip again next week.


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## ibglowin (Oct 9, 2014)

I order all my supplies from Morewine. No tax and shipped for free. My LHBS is 60 miles RT as well and they only stock beer supplies for the most part anyway.


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## geek (Oct 10, 2014)

Mike, when do you normally press?
Yesterday SG was ~1.042, didn't measure today but I think it will be ~1.000 by Sunday.
Do you let it go all the way dry, or simply press at 1.000?

Also, I see people saying that after pressing, they rack, put pressed wine into racked carboy/vessel, wait 24 hours, then rack one more time before putting it through MLF.
Wonder if airlock is needed during this period. I know we don't need to degas a bit before adding MLB, right?


So, what's the plan/schedule you use in general?


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## ibglowin (Oct 10, 2014)

I usually press around 1.000 but I don't use a hydrometer anymore I can tell just by the cap and how much it is pushed up between punchdowns (firmness) wise. Every batch can be different especially if you are using different yeast. I had 8 brutes this year and 4-5 different yeast strains going. My Syrah, Zin and Merlot were all done in 6 days and I pressed them off last Sunday. The 3 Brutes of Cab Sauv have been taking their sweet time and I finally added some heat 2 days ago as clouds and rain moved in to our area and the winery really cooled down with no sun. I was going to press today but its still rainy and I think this rain will be out of here by tomorrow so I will press one way or another using a tarp etc. tomorrow. I still have a decent cap but its starting to soften so Its ready and smells wonderful. Cherry cherry cherry and GREAT color.

As for racking off the gross lees I now wait a week at least as long as there are now off odors and the wine smells clean. The reason is if you rack off after only 24-48 hours the lees really haven't settled much at all and your loosing a lot of precious wine. The more it settles and compacts the more wine you will end up with and the cleaner your rack will be without a need for a second rack a few weeks later perhaps.

Yes, you need an airlock once you put it into glass. MLF added anytime after that first racking.


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 10, 2014)

I'm still pretty new with grapes, but have found that you need 2+ days after that first racking to let things settle, like Mike said. I get a much better yield that way. Then rack again and pitch MLB after that racking. Yes, you do remove some sediment that the MLB would use for nutrient, but if you're using Acti-ML and Opti-Malo, I don't think it is an issue. And as was stated, once you are beyond that first racking, you need to be under airlock. Maybe not topped all the way up, but under air lock. 

Mike: Your Cab sounds like its going to be great. How were the initial numbers?


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## ibglowin (Oct 10, 2014)

These came from the Lodi AVA so high Brix to start but pH wasn't that bad. I added a gallon of acidulated water to bring Brix down to around 24 and then rechecked pH and made initial TA reading. Added a bit more Tartaric and ended up with a pH of 3.5 and TA of 0.7 g/L

I end up getting a full 6G carboy and 2 gallons of press wine. I lose a full gallon probably at the 1st rack so I end up with 7 gallons of finished wine (out of 3 lugs) and that works out perfect for topups in the Vadai. Each wine goes in for 6 months each.




Boatboy24 said:


> Mike: Your Cab sounds like its going to be great. How were the initial numbers?


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## geek (Oct 10, 2014)

Ok, so let me see if I get this correct:

1.when desired SG, around 1.000, scoop out floating grapes from brute

2.carefully rack off remaining wine from brute leaving sediment

3.place wine into carboy with airlock 

4.press grapes and add wine to the carboy with airlock

5.wait around 2 days to let more gross lees settle down

6.rack off wine from gross less into another carboy (demi-john in my case)

7.prepare Acti-ML in a bit of warm water, I have 15gr

8.hydrate or add MLB (VP41) to Acti-ML solution

9.within 15 minutes, add MLB to demi-john 

10.let the game starts...

11.within a week or two (?) add Opti-Malo Plus. Should I divide in two pitches like Fermaid K, add about 9gr a week after pitching MLB, then 9gr the 2nd week?

Did I miss anything?
.


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 10, 2014)

I add the Opti-Malo to the wine before I add the MLB. I don't know if that matters, but it has worked so far. Otherwise, I think you've got it down. 

Mike: cab sounds well dialed in.


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## ibglowin (Oct 10, 2014)

Just get a one gallon bucket and a 6 gallon bucket. Set the press up high enough so the 6 gallon bucket fits below it. Scoop a gallon at a time into the bucket and dump it into the press. Most of the wine will flow right out and into the bucket below. When you get (in your case) the six gallon bucket filled then stop and transfer to your carboy. Continue until the basket is full and then you need to add the wooden plates and blocks and start your press run. Since you have a big brute you may need to fill the 6 gallon bucket several times depending on your press basket size.

Also the Opti Malo gets added right away to the wine before you add your MLB.


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## geek (Oct 10, 2014)

Boatboy24 said:


> I add the Opti-Malo to the wine before I add the MLB. I don't know if that matters, but it has worked so far. Otherwise, I think you've got it down.



Ok, new one for me...



ibglowin said:


> Just get a one gallon bucket and a 6 gallon bucket. Set the press up high enough so the 6 gallon bucket fits below it. Scoop a gallon at a time into the bucket and dump it into the press. Most of the wine will flow right out and into the bucket below. When you get (in your case) the six gallon bucket filled then stop and transfer to your carboy. Continue until the basket is full and then you need to add the wooden plates and blocks and start your press run. Since you have a big brute you may need to fill the 6 gallon bucket several times depending on your press basket size.
> 
> Also the Opti Malo gets added right away to the wine before you add your MLB.



Just I don't have a "real" wooden press....

http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/f6/home-made-wine-press-red-neck-styler-46665/

.


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## Boatboy24 (Oct 10, 2014)

Scoop the cap off with a strainer or colander and put the skins into your 'press'. After a few rounds, you should be left with a must with relatively low/no skins. Then you can vacuum rack from there. There will still be a lot of seeds and stuff in the bottom. Then you can strain them off. Don't squeeze the seeds.


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## ibglowin (Oct 10, 2014)

Good luck with that…… 

Trade the Z for a real press!


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## geek (Oct 12, 2014)

Just checked...SG ~1.000
We are pressing in a few with our home made press 

Punched down one last time.

Wish me luck....


Sent from my iPhone using Wine Making


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## geek (Oct 13, 2014)

UPDATE:
Home made press worked well, yup. 
We pressed the heck out of the skins.

After pressing everything (even all grapes in the bottom of brute with all the goop) we just got merely 15 gallon of wine.....

I was expecting around 17 gallons with 7 cases...hmmmm 
We placed all the wine into a 15gal stainless steel beer keg container and basically had nothing leftover.

I am scratching my head now because my plan is to rack off the lees maybe tonight (24 hours after pressing) and put wine in my glass demi john for MLF, no way I'll be able to fill my demi john; very sure the lees will be at least a gallon to toss, or maybe put into the other batch going through the 2nd run.

Wondering if ok to use a gallon of a Merlot that went though partially MLF completion (low PH issue) to top off this one?

.


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## ibglowin (Oct 13, 2014)

I get 8 gallons of wine out of (3) 36lb lugs from the Lodi AVA. That is after usually adding close to a gallon of acidulated water to bring the Brix down to planet earth. I lose a gallon of that 8 at racking off the gross lees. I let my wine rest and compact for 7 days. You will lose more if you only rack at 24-48 hours as they have not had time to settle and compact. Doing the math I calculate you should have gotten around ~18 gallons of wine out of that 252lbs of grapes and extra water added. I would say the difference was your home made press was not as efficient as a basket press. Thats all I can come up with. Let it rest for a week while you figure out what to do next. You may need to switch to a couple of 6 gallon carboys and and 3 gallon carboy.


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## geek (Oct 13, 2014)

Thanks Mike, so it is better to let it rest under airlock for a few days THEN pitch the MLB?


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## ibglowin (Oct 13, 2014)

Better to wait a week, rack off the gross lees and see what you got volume wise. Rack into appropriate sized carboys, add that Merlot only if it will help you pH wise, not hurt. Add Opti-Malo and MLB, stir well and keep it warm. 68-72 degrees and looks for signs of pin prick gas bubbles.


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## geek (Oct 13, 2014)

Roger that...
I usually start MLF right away but will wait this time and see where I am by weekend. Most likely will start MLF Saturday.

Thanks again.


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## geek (Oct 15, 2014)

After sitting in 15gal stainless steel keg container, racked wine, then back into keg.
Added Opti Malo Plus to wine, stirred well.

Hydrated like a bit more than a 1/4 of VP41 package with 15gr of Acti-ML, waited 10 minutes or so.

Pitched MLB.

Added 2 American oak medium plus toast spirals.

Let's see how it goes.....

..


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## sdelli (Oct 15, 2014)

6% yield is on the low side of normal.... But still normal. 7% would be a good press!
7X36X6%=15 gallons


Sam


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## geek (Oct 16, 2014)

sdelli said:


> 6% yield is on the low side of normal.... But still normal. 7% would be a good press!
> 7X36X6%=15 gallons
> 
> 
> Sam



Yeah, low, the good news is that I got around 11 gallons of 2nd run wine after adding 8 gallons of water to the skins


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