# Bentonite and/or Sparkolloid: Comparative Study



## dangerdave

*CLEARING THINGS UP* by dangerdave

Given the depth and breadth of the winemaking industry throughout the history of mankind, I expect to view myself as a "beginner" for many years to come. We are all still learning together how best to make wine. With less than a year of experience under my belt, and no real fear of failure, I submit to you the follwing.

Here, we will do a side-by-side (by side) comparison of the use of bentonite and sparkolloid. More specifically, we will be observing the effect of bentonite on the lees and clarity of both the primary fermentation and secondary clearing of my own personal recipe for what I call Dragon Blood (some of you may know this as my Triple Berry Lemon recipe derivied from Lon's original Skeeter Pee). I am posting the recipe here, for easy reference:
_____________________________________________________

*"DRAGON BLOOD"*

*FROM DANGERDAVE'S EASY PEESY (SKEETER PEE) RECIPE*

*Ingredients: For a six gallon batch:* 

Step 1: To a cleaned and sanitized seven gallon primary, add---in this order:
2 bottles (48 oz each) 100% Lemon Juice (ReaLemon in the green bottle): _if you want to recude the acid level use one bottle._
Water to about five gallons
20 cups of white granulated sugar (looking for a SG btw 1.085-1.09): _use less sugar for lower final ABV. Stir sugar until _completely_ desolved._
1 tsp. tannin (stir)
4 tsp. yeast nutrient (stir)
2 tsp. yeast energizer (stir)
3 tsp. pectic enzyme (stir)
6 lbs. of Triple Berry Blend (raspberry/blackberry/blueberry--a_vailable in most grocery store freezer sections_), frozen then thawed, in a nylon fine mesh bag (tied shut), placed in primary: _Give the bag a couple of squeezes to work in pectic enzyme.__ May also toss fruit directly into primary, but this makes for a "messier" fermentation and subsequently will require more clearing time and racking._
Top water to six gallons
Cover primary
Place brew belt: _Keep temp in 70F-80F range._
Let sit undisturbed for 12-24 hours...

Step 2: To the primary fermenter, add:
1 packet of EC-1118 Yeast (starter, per yeast directions): _Sprinkle yeast into one cup of warm water (100F), let sit for 15 minutes (no longer), stir and add to primary. Other yeast strains may also work well._
Stir Primary Vigorously!

Step 3: Each day, do the following, in this order:
Check temp
Check specific gravity
Squeeze juices from fruit pack into fermenter---remove friut pack: _Temporarily place in sanitized bucket._
Stir primary vigorously: _To introduce oxygen into must._
Replace fruit pack
Cover primary

Step 4: When specific gravity (SG) reaches <1.000, do the following:
Squeeze juices from fruit pack into fermenter---remove friut pack: _Discard fruit._
Rack to cleaned and sanitized six gallon carboy
Degas very thoroughly: _I cannot emphasize this enough!_
Add 1 tsp. Potassium Metabisulfite (stir)
Add 3 tsp. Potassium Sorbate (stir)
Add Sparkolloid* (or other cleaing agent): *_1 tbs in one cup of water simmered for about 30 minutes. Add hot mixture to carboy._
Allow to clear undistrubed for no less than 1 week

Step 4: When wine is clear:
Carefully rack off of lees into cleaned & sanitized six gallon carboy
Add 4-5 cups of white granulated sugar (stir until sugar is completely disolved): _Add more or less sugar to taste. Remember! The sugars will blend with the berry flavors over time, and the sweetness will come forward. Do not over-sweeten!_
Allow wine to clear free of all sediment: _This may or may not require more racking over the next few weeks._

Step 5: When wine is completely clear:
Bottle in clear bottles
Note: _Never bottle cloudy wine! NEVER!_

Wine is drinkable right way, but may benefit from up to a year of aging.
____________________________________________________________

We will proceed with a chronology of the events that began on the evening of June 5th, 2012. While in the Lab, I mixed up two batches of must using the above recipe.





We will refer to them as batch _*A*_ and batch_* B*_. The only difference between the two was the addition of bentonite to the primary fermenter of batch *A*. Let's see how this all turns out!

*June 5th, 2012: DAY 1*
Added all the necessary ingredients listed in the recipe into the two primaries. Per the bentonite package directions, I stirred 2 teaspoons into 1/2 cup of warm water, then added this mixture to the primary. I remember the first kit I ever made, almost a year ago. I was astonished to learn that the first thing I had to add to the must was mud! My lovely wife immediately pointed out that batch *A* looked darker. Batch _*A*_ is on the left, *B* on the right. I covered them and let them sit quietly overnight.





*June 6th, 2012: DAY 2*
The next morning at 0830, I separtely rehydrated two packets of EC-1118 yeast and added them to the primaries. Ten hours later---that evening---I checked the wines. There were "visual signs of fermentation" noted.




What struck me again (can you see it?) was that batch _*A*_ was much darker than batch *B*. I carefully removed each bags of fruit, sqeezed out all the juices into the primaries, stirred each batch vigorously, and replaced the bags of fruit.

<_I invite specualtion as to why the color difference between the two batches_.>

*June 7th, 2012: DAY 3*
I squeezed and stirred each batch before I left for work at 0730. I will inspect the primaries upon my return home tomorrow.


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## oldwhiskers

Nice test, I will be watching this thread. I just tried Sparkolloid for the first time in a batch of Skeeter Pee and Apple Wine. Both dropped crystal clear in about a week each. So far I like the Sparkolloid but have not tried Bentonite.


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## btom2004

I will also.


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## dangerdave

I am using the bentonite in the primary in conjunction with the sparkolloid at clearing time. I agree with John, the sparkolloid works very well at clearing wine (especially the skeeter pees). However, the lees are very light with the sparkolloid, and the use of bentonite should make the lees more compact for the purposes of easy racking. There may be other benefits as well. we shall see...

Now, for a little lesson.

BENTONITE: According to Wikipedia---your source for all knowledge---Bentonite is an absorbent phylloslicate, essentially impure clay consisting mostly of montmorillonite. Bentonite usually forms from weathering of volcanic ash, most often in the presence of water. However, the term bentonite, as well as a similar clay called tonstein, has been used to describe clay beds of uncertain origin. For industrial purposes, two main classes of bentonite exist: sodium and calcium bentonite. In stratigraphy, completely devitrified (weathered volcanic glass) ash-fall beds are commonly referred to as K-bentonites when the dominant clay species is illite. Other common clay species, and sometimes dominant, are montmorillonite and kaolinite. Kaolinite-dominated clays are commonly referred to as tonsteins and are typically associated with coal.

Bentonite has many industrial and agricultural uses, from cat litter, to sand molding, to the medical poultices, even soil conservation. The US is the worlds largest producer of bentonites, providing a full third of the world's supply.

For our purposes, bentonite also has the interesting property of absorbing relatively large amounts of protein molecules from aqueous solutions. Therefore, it is uniquely useful in the process of winemaking, where it is used to remove excessive amounts of protein from white wines. Were it not for this use of bentonite, many or most white wines would precipitate undesirable flocculant clouds or hazes upon exposure to warmer temperatures, as these proteins denature. It also has the incidental use of inducing more rapid clarfication of both red and white wines.

SPARKOLLOID: Sparkolloid is a fining agent developed by Scott Laboratories for clarification. It is a blend of polysaccharides in a diatomaceous earth carrier and has a strong positive charge. For some, it is the product of choice for clarifying white and blush wines. Sparkolloid is one of the more benign fining materials, and when used in reasonable quantities, it seldom strips wine flavors or aromas. It neutralizes the repelling charge of particulate matter allowing aggregation and formation of compact lees. It does not remove desirable color constituents. It is not a cold stabilizing, heat stabilizing or odor removing agent. Sparkolloid clarifies naturally by removing protein haze.

More later...


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## BobF

Good experiment and info. I'll be watching with great interest.


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## Boatboy24

Good experiment.

I am watching and reading with great interest.


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## WildBill

Subscribing!


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## dangerdave

So what do you guys think? What about the color variation between the two batches. It could just be that one of the four bags of fruit I bought had a lot more, say, blackberries in it. If we presume equal fruit distribution amongst the bogs, what could it be? The bentonite I have looks like course ground pepper. Could it be that the bentonite itself makes it darker, or is the bentonite effecting the fermentation somehow (beneficial or benign)?


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## g8keeper

i just found this article about bentonite use in wine making....perhaps a little more insight into this whole discussion....

http://enologyaccess.org/ea2/index....ent-of-grape-juice-on-yeast-fermentation.html


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## oldwhiskers

Well the bentonite is bound to affect the color of the must, I would think. As I said earlier I have not used bentonite yet, I have some but just not used it yet. By the way, your work area looks pretty god.


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## BobF

A few years ago I did 2 one gallon batches of strawberry and used bentonite post-ferment on one of them. Even though they were both the same shade/darkness before, the bentonite batch ended much paler - almost orange.

The flavor was still very good, so I labeled the bottles 'Pale Strawberry' ...

I'm sure the amount used will have a lot to do with this kind of result.


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## dangerdave

Thanks for the link, Ken (liked it!).

"...juice fining by adding and removing the bentonite, was less effective in removal of protein than leaving the bentonite throughout the duration of the fermentation, in the highest bentonite concentrations."

I was unaware of this method of "juice fining", and glad to see that what I had done with the bentonite was the better route. The conclusion of Weiss & Bisson's study was that bentonite (in the way we are usuing it here) had no over all effect on fermentation (either the rate or time), had less effect on glucose/fructose levels, and was much more effective in removing proteins (which is what we want it to do!). Perhaps the early bonding of the bentonite with these proteins---even in the primary fermenter---is making the wine look darker without the protein haze (which is white). I'm not convinced yet. I'll allow for some further comments before explaining myself...


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## dangerdave

oldwhiskers said:


> Well the bentonite is bound to affect the color of the must, I would think. As I said earlier I have not used bentonite yet, I have some but just not used it yet. By the way, your work area looks pretty god.


 
Maybe this will give you insentive to break it out and use it. My guess is that in the end, bentonite will make the wine better. We shall see!


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## dangerdave

BobF said:


> A few years ago I did 2 one gallon batches of strawberry and used bentonite post-ferment on one of them. Even though they were both the same shade/darkness before, the bentonite batch ended much paler - almost orange.
> 
> The flavor was still very good, so I labeled the bottles 'Pale Strawberry' ...
> 
> I'm sure the amount used will have a lot to do with this kind of result.


 
Paler, huh? Interesting. Mine definately cools darker, richer. I'm anxious to taste the difference later and see if the deeper color equates to flavor. 
I must say, I've cheated a bit. Nothing to mess up our current study, mind you. I'll tell you about it later.


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## SarahRides

I hadn't used either for a while (I was mostly using Isinglass). I have a stubborn Pineapple wine that after a month still had a haze to it, so I tried the bentonite with is (I'm was just wondering if it was a protein haze). There is already about 1/2" of sediment on the bottom of the carboy, but it looks really light and fluffy! It seems to work well and quick, but I'm curious to see how easy it will be to rack the wine off of that sediment! I've also never used it post-fermentation, I've always added it during fermentation.


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## dangerdave

*June 10th, 2012: DAY 6*
Both of the batches were started with a SG = 1.065. They are fermenting at the same temp, at the same rate, this morning having equal SG readings of 1.025. Batch *A* is still darker in appearence, with no free-floating clumps of yeast noted, as in batch *B*. As per the Dragon Blood Recipe, I am doing the _Squeeze & Stir_ every day.

Here's where the fermenters sit, quietly maintaining a perfect 75F with a 45% relative humidity (thanks to my new dehumidifier). Note: I have recently increased my fermentation capacity by 1/3 with the addition of a third fermenter.






Here are the two batches with the lids off this morning. They are fizzing softly with the audible sounds of active fermentation.

Batch *A* (with bentonite):





Batch *B* (no bentonite): note the clumps of yeast no present in batch *A*





Here's the two batches after the daily squeeze & stir, prior to replacing the fruit bags.






Just another day in Danger's Lab!


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## dangerdave

SarahRides said:


> I hadn't used either for a while (I was mostly using Isinglass). I have a stubborn Pineapple wine that after a month still had a haze to it, so I tried the bentonite with is (I'm was just wondering if it was a protein haze). There is already about 1/2" of sediment on the bottom of the carboy, but it looks really light and fluffy! It seems to work well and quick, but I'm curious to see how easy it will be to rack the wine off of that sediment! I've also never used it post-fermentation, I've always added it during fermentation.


 
Is the wine clearing? I have had to treat for pectin haze during a lengthy clearing, but not for protein haze. I like to use the bentonite and sparkolloid because they are unlikely to affect people with certain allergies.

Fluffy, huh? The bentonite is suppose to produce compact lees. This could be applicable to our study. Please, keep us posted, Sarah.


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## SarahRides

I did notice that it started clearing right away, within an hour there was a noticeable layer of sediment on the bottom. I had added pectic enzyme before fermentation, so I did not add it again. I figured if the bentonite didn't work, I'd try the Pectic again. It has been only about 12 hours since I've added it, it may compact down! I'll keep you updated.


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## dangerdave

*I must admit...*

Here's where I come clear...I mean, clean. 

I have been one step ahead of this study. My inspiration for this comparison was another batch of Dragon Blood that I started about two weeks ago (about a week before the A/B batches used in this study). As I was mixing up the must, I remembered one of our forum members (I wish I could remember who it was so I could give credit) saying they used both bentonite & sparkolloid on all of their wines. I decided to give it a try.

My lovely wife, Johnna didn't know I had changed the recipe. She loves her some Dragon Blood, too! I was in the Lab, racking this batch (we'll call it batch *X*) from the primary fermenter and adding the sparkolloid. She walked in, looked at batch *X* in the carboy and said, "Wow, that's darker than the others!" I had to agree with her astute observation. I told her what I had done, and my plans. She still wanted to know why it was darker. I could not answer that question. And so we have our current study.

So, here is batch *X* just after adding the sparkolloid at clearing: June 3rd (PM)





June 5th (AM):





June 6th (PM): After only three days! At this point, I usually give the carboy a good jiggle to get all the sediment to fall off the sides of my Mexican carboys...





June 8th (AM): Five days into clearing!





Here's a picture of the lees. They look kind of fluffy, but my guess is that this is an illusion, and that the bentonite has done it's job.





Check back in a few days!


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## dangerdave

SarahRides said:


> I did notice that it started clearing right away, within an hour there was a noticeable layer of sediment on the bottom. I had added pectic enzyme before fermentation, so I did not add it again. I figured if the bentonite didn't work, I'd try the Pectic again. It has been only about 12 hours since I've added it, it may compact down! I'll keep you updated.


 
Thanks, Sarah. Getting other views during this study is very helpful.


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## g8keeper

dangerdave said:


> Thanks for the link, Ken (liked it!).


 
you're welcome dave.....following the thread had led me to start doing some snooping around the web, found that article, and figured i could help contribute with my findings....i felt the article applied to your experiment....


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## BobF

Dave - Quick question. You talk about the darkness difference between the batches. Is the color actually deeper and darker, or is the bentonite version more opaque?


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## SarahRides

So 24 hours after adding the bentonite, my pineapple wine is crystal clear! I'm going to still let it sit for a few weeks to give the sediment time to settle and compact.


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## dangerdave

BobF said:


> Dave - Quick question. You talk about the darkness difference between the batches. Is the color actually deeper and darker, or is the bentonite version more opaque?


 
They were both opaque. The color of batch *A* really looked darker in the fermenters.


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## dangerdave

SarahRides said:


> So 24 hours after adding the bentonite, my pineapple wine is crystal clear! I'm going to still let it sit for a few weeks to give the sediment time to settle and compact.


 
That's what I did not do. Perhaps if I would, the sediment would be easier to work around. However...


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## dangerdave

*Batch X*

Well, I got distracted by Batch *X*. I started this batch of Dragon Blood on May 28th. It was my first batch of this kind using bentonite in the primary. It was degassed, stabilized, and cleared (with sparkolloid) on June 6th. On June 11th, it looked like this...






The sediments in the bottom still looked very fluffy. If I had let them sit longer (a week or more), they likely would have been compact. However, be as I am trying to make---with the Dragon Blood---fast, cheap, good wine, I decided to proceed and check out the consistancy of the lees.

A last look before racking...









So, long story short (if it's not too late), I carefully racked off the sediment into another clean/sanitized carboy. I really don't think the sediments were any easier to handle with the use of the bentonite at this point. The flavor was even more boldly berry than my previous batches. There was definately less acid from the lemon and more berry flavor. Following my normal recipe, I back-sweetened with four cups of white granulated sugar---that is, to my taste.

It looked so beautifully clear the next day, that I proceeded to bottle it right there. After only 15 days since first mixing the must, the Dragon Blood was as drinkable as ever! I am just blown away by this batch. I'm anxious to proceed with the other two batches (A&B), and see how quickly they can be ready to bottle and drink!

Here's the Dragon Blood, Batch *X*, bottled after only 15 days!!!


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## dangerdave

*Back to Batches A&B*

*BATCHES A & B:*

*June 8th, 2012: DAY 4*
Both batches: SG=1.030 @ 75F (added secind dose of nutrient/energizer)

*June 9th, 2012: DAY 5*
Both batches: SG=1.005 @ 75F

*June 11th, 2012: DAY 7*
Both batches: SG=0.990 @ 75F

*June 12th, 2012: DAY 8*
Both batches: SG=0.990 @ 75F

Batches *A *& *B*, being dry, were ready to be racked, stabilized, and cleared. The day before, I had squeezed the fruit bags and stirred the wines one last time. I let them sit for 24 hours and then racked them through the spigot into their respective carboys, leaving most of the gross lees behind in the buckets. There did not appear to be any difference between the two batches' lees except for the aforementioned color. *A* left, *B* right:





The two batches were degassed...





...stabilized, and cleared with sparkolloid (per manufacturer's instruction). Here they sit, slowly clearing since June 12th...





*June 14th, 2012: DAY 10 (AM)*





*June 14th, 2012: DAY 10 (PM)*





They are getting clearer by the hour! *A* left, *B* right.


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## oldwhiskers

Looking good, and fast too!!


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## dangerdave

*Continued Clearing...*

The race is on! The next four to six days will likely tell the tale.

*June 15th: DAY 11*
Batch *A*:





Batch _*B*_:





Interesting! The batch _without_ the bentonite (*B*; sparkolloid only) appears to be clearing faster! I hadn't figured on this! One would think that the bentonite would have, at the least, reduced the clearing time---as it appeared to do with Batch *X*. I _am_ presuming that all three batches were created under the exact same conditions, even though I know this is not so. Slight variations in temperature---even a few degrees---can change the level of gasses removed during degassing. All variables here are human, and therefore only controlled within a certain range. But I digress...

*June 16th: DAY 12 (AM)*
*A* left, *B* right. It may be hard to see, but *B* has a slight lead in clarity.


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## saramc

Dave: This article has a lot of useful information http://www.brsquared.org/wine/Articles/fining.htm
And I don't know if you came across this article by Purdue on Bentonite/_*Importance of Bentonite Trials for EACH/EVERY wine you choose to use bentonite in*_: http://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FS/FS-53-W.pdf

It has a lot of interesting information about bentonite and its impact on many things (including loss/change of color in rose/blush wine). Also said: Bentonite fining before fermentation may lead to a sluggish fermentation due to its clarification effect on the treated juice and the possibly stripping of certain growth factors, such as fatty acids, phospholipids, and sterols. An extended fermentation can lead to increased amounts of residual fructose in the wine. Since fructose is twice as sweet as glucose, this may affect the perception of the wine’s dryness.

Also learned that the type of bentonite you choose to use (sodium vs. calcium) could create problems:
For example, an addition of 1,920 mg/L (16 lbs/1,000 gal) calcium bentonite — equivalent to 960 mg/L (8 lbs/1,000 gal) sodium bentonite — to a batch of protein-rich Gewürztraminer would result in an additional potential for 114 mg/L calcium tartrate. Since calcium tartrate does not respond as readily to cold stabilization as potassium bitatrate, this may mean the difference between a stable wine and a wine throwing a glass-like precipitate that may worry a consumer).​ 
Sarah: Glad to read that the bentonite cleared your pineapple up for you. When you work with bentonite do you cold stabilize? Do you filter? What about heat stabilizing? To test for stability, a sample of wine is heated to 70-80°C (158-176°F) for 6 hours, then cooled to room temperature. This sample is then compared with a control sample. If the treated sample has formed a haze the wine is not stable and requires further fining. 


For the member who talked about "pale strawberry" wine: depending upon the yeast you used, and possibly the bentonite use, could very well be the reason your wine did not retain the strawberry red color. The majority of strawberry wine actually ferments out to a "straw" color. I started asking wineries that carry strawberry wine if their wine is all natural as a result of the fermentation or did they add coloring? The majority indicated they add coloring coloring. Some opt to use "beet syrup", while other use red food dye.


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## dangerdave

Thanks for the additional info, saramc. I think what I have is calcium bentonite. In my comparison, both bacthes fermented at nearly the exact same rate. In eight days, they were both dry. It does not appear (at least for my study) that the bentonite effected the rate of fermentation at all.

*June 19th: DAY 15*
Both batches continue to clear...yea, this is the boring part!





So far, it looks like they're even. After a week of clearing, I usually rack off the sediment. I'm at work today, so I'll check the batches tomorrow, when I get home.


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## dangerdave

*June 20th: DAY 16*

Batch A (left: bentonite & sparkolloid) is slightly behind Batch B (right: sparkolloid only) in clearing. It's very close, though:





I decided to let them sit another few days. I'm at work again today, or I'd have compared the lees and backsweetened both. I really want to compare the sediments side by side. If bentonite does not show any improvenment in handling the sediments, I'd say---at this point---that I won't use it again. I need to taste them as well, so the judgement is still out.


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## oldwhiskers

So far, I'm impressed with the Sparkolloid. I degassed and added Sparkolloid to my fourth carboy this month and the other three are crystal clear. My LHBS does not carry the Sparkolloid so I was a little late getting some in after dallying some on it.


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## soccer0ww

Thanks for doing this "test". It has been very interesting to see the results, and all the added information from other forum members. I will have to try sparkalloid. I usually use Isinglass and have not always been happy with the results.


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## dangerdave

Welcome back all, for a brief update. I've been overwhelmed this past week, so the Dragon Blood has been sitting quietly, clearing. So far, I think the two are very close. Both are crystal clear. Tomorrow, I will be racking and sweetening. This will be the opportunity for me to examine the sediments, and compare them. I will be checking the density during racking to see if the bentonite holds the sparkolloid in place. I have not tasted them yet, so I will be checking for flavor differences as well (I do not anticipate any)...my favorate part.

I was hoping to get at them earlier (and keep up with JJ & cindy), but my lovely wife became ill (she's disabled), and my mother gave me a pool table (which I am attempting to install and recover with red felt), so---as wines do best---they just sat there. I'll be doing some catchup work in the Lab this weekend.

Thanks for being patient...


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## southlake333

dangerdave said:


> I was hoping to get at them earlier (and keep up with JJ & cindy), but my lovely wife became ill (she's disabled), and my mother gave me a pool table (which I am attempting to install and recover with red felt), so---as wines do best---they just sat there. I'll be doing some catchup work in the Lab this weekend.
> 
> Thanks for being patient...



Very sorry to hear about your wife, I hope everything is well now.

Thanks again for all the information!


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## dangerdave

The weekend never came! A powerful derecho took out power all over southern Ohio, and left us without electrcity for three days. Luckily, we have a finished basement/wine cellar that stays cool (67F) 24/7.

Check General Chit-Chat for my tale of the DERECHO?

It turned out to be a good thing, I think, that the Dragon Bloods got to sit and settle out nicely, since one of my goals was to examine and compare the consistancy of the sediments. My hope was that the bentonite would help to "lock" the fluffy sparkolloid in a more solid state, making racking without disturbing the sediments easier and to reduce loss of wine.

*July 3th, DAY 29:*

Let's look at the cleared Dragon Blood. No difference at all with clarity. They both look great! The sediments look equal.






Following this picture, the batches were both racked and backsweetened (with my usual four cups of sugar). I observed the sediments during vacuum racking to see how easily they could be disturbed. Here are some pics of the sediments.
Batch _*A*_




Batch *B*





Although they don't show much, what you might notice is that Batch *B* (sparkolloid only) has more wine left in the carboy. The sediments in Batch *A* (bentonite + sparkolloid) were definately more solid, and clung to the bottom much more readily than the Batch *B*. I got more clear wine off of Batch *A*---nearly an entire 750ml bottle! The sediments in Batch *B* were easily disturbed, and even being very careful I managed to suck up a little of them during this racking.

I'm going to let them sit one more week to see if anything else falls out, then I'll taste and bottle. At that time, I will give my final conclusion on this study of bentonite and Sparkolloid.


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## oldwhiskers

Wow, they really look nice. Thanks for the comparison.


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## dangerdave

You are wlecome, John. Thanks for reading!


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## Heckle

Love experiments like this.


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## soccer0ww

Look forward to your final conclusions. Some interesting results so far!


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## dangerdave

*Conclusion...*

Here we are at the end of our tale of two clearing agents. The two batches have both been in their bottles for over a week, so last night, my lovely wife and I sat down to check them out. From the looks alone, the two wines appear identical. They are both perfectly clear with no added sediments having fallen out in the bottle. As the official Dragon Blood inspector, I declair they both pass the muster for awesome *red* color (it is called "Blood" after all).

Batch _*A*_ left, Batch *B* right:






I opened both of the bottles and observed no sign of carbonation (phew!), which would have made comparison difficult if not impossible. I poured a small amount in two glasses and gave them a sniff...!!!

<Remember, I currently have no way to do any testing on these wines except with my senses. I understood this from the beginning, and decided to proceed, using only my taste, smell, and observation to judge the outcome. That's what wine judges do, right?>

Now, here comes the strange part. I fully expected at this point that the wines would come out exactly the same in all aspects, except for the handling of the respective sediments and their densities at racking time (as we discussed earlier this month). What I got was a shock! Batch *A* (bentonkite and Sparkolloid) had a distinct and shark nose (my wife called it a "tang") with a nice berry aroma, while Batch *B* (Sparkolloid only) smelled just like a bowl of fresh berries---with a mild lemon twist. To be more specific, Batch *B* smelled better, and more to my liking. It was what I had made Dragon Blood to be. 

The aromas tranfered directly to the flavor. Upon tasting, we discovered that Batch *B* was _true_ Dragon Blood. Slightly sweet, with full of rich berry flavor, and a perfect lemon background; all flavors nicely blended, wonderfully balanced. This is my sixth and seventh batches of this wine, so believe me, I know what it should taste like. Batch *A* tasted out of balance...somehow. It was too tart---still clinging to it's youth perhaps. Before I commented on it at all, Johnna asked me if I had added more lemon juice to Batch *A*. I told her they were exactly the same, except for the use of bentonite in the primary of Batch *A*. Later that evening---as I do every evening---I asked Johnna what she wanted from the cellar. She had apparently wetted her tasted for Dragon Blood earlier, because she asked for more. She said, "Batch *B*, _not_ Batch *A*." She is so wise.  I had to agree.

That settled it for me. _I will not be using the bentonite in my Dragon Blood again._ I suspect (and I may be completely wrong) that the bentonite may have interfered with the interaction of the yeast on the skins of the fruit---thus limiting or reducing the berry flavor in Batch *A*. This goes right along with the preferred usage of bentonite in white wines, where skins are not present in the primary. Since rogue sediments are easier to see in white wines, it would seem very important to be able to rack efficiently off the sediments (which would be more compact with the heavier bentonite) and thus keep your whites clear.

*My final (and certainly unprofessional) conclusion is that bentonite may in fact be detrimental in the crafting of wines involving skins (of fruits or grapes) in the primary.*

Note: I will continue comparing these wines as time goes by. I plan to wait a few months and open two more bottles to see if they have improved or even out with age.

_I want to thank everyone for the great input and questions. I appreciate all of you!_


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## oldwhiskers

Thanks for the study, I think I will pitch my Bentonite and stay with the Sparkolloid.


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## southlake333

Very good to know, thanks! I'll make the next batch without Bentonite to see the difference.


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## Boatboy24

Great write up Dave. Thank you. 

As a small token of appreciation, I'd be happy to help you dispose of batch A. Just PM me and I'll give you an address where you can send it.


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## SarahRides

I'm still playing around with different fining agents. I've only used bentonite a few times, but have found that it has really helped to clean up a couple of wines that just had a stubborn haze. I have found that no one fining has proven to be a tried and true definitive agent for everything. I've had a few that have needed a second fining of a different type just to polish it up.


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## dangerdave

SarahRides said:


> I'm still playing around with different fining agents. I've only used bentonite a few times, but have found that it has really helped to clean up a couple of wines that just had a stubborn haze. I have found that no one fining has proven to be a tried and true definitive agent for everything. I've had a few that have needed a second fining of a different type just to polish it up.


 
I completely agree, Sarah. No one agent will work best for every wine. My study was limited to my Dragon Blood recipe, because that is what I make the most. Since this study and my experience are limited, I very much appreciate the added input.

Perhaps a need a long list of disclaimers...


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## dangerdave

southlake333 said:


> Very good to know, thanks! I'll make the next batch without Bentonite to see the difference.


 
That would be great, JJ. I'd like to get a second opinion.


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## JoshDivino

Wow Dave, this was an awesome experiment, I am now fully convinced to add Bentonite to the Primary Fermentation. Your results were awesome and your wine looks delicious. I'm definitely going to try out this recipe and see if I can get some wine that looks the color of yours. Very impressed with this. Thank you for your research!


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## olusteebus

Boatboy24 said:


> Great write up Dave. Thank you.
> 
> As a small token of appreciation, I'd be happy to help you dispose of batch A. Just PM me and I'll give you an address where you can send it.



A very generous offer Boatboy. I will follow suit and I am willing to take batch B.


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## olusteebus

Got a question. Since sparkloid is best with skins, I presume it will be best for my Peach wine which has skins. Can I add Sparkloid before fermentation ends in the primary?


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## Boatboy24

I've read that you should let peach clear on it's own because the sparkolloid can strip things out that you want to keep in the wine.


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## oldwhiskers

Boatboy24 said:


> I've read that you should let peach clear on it's own because the sparkolloid can strip things out that you want to keep in the wine.



I have heard that with Bentonite, but not with Sparkolloid.


The removal of protein is proportional to the amount of bentonite added. Additions of the equivalent of several pounds of bentonite per 1,000 gallons of wine can reduce the protein content from an initial 50-100 mg/1 to less than 10 mg/1 (Kean and Marsh 1956). Although complete removal of residual wine proteins can generally be achieved by the use of bentonite, it has been recognized that this may not be necessary to obtain protein stability and may detrimentally effect the sensory quality. Bentonite additions to wine exceeding several pounds per 1000 gallons can potentially strip wine body, color - and possibly impart an earthy, freshly 'laundered' smell. Care must be used when attempting to protein-stabilize sparkling wine cuvees with bentonite. The carbon dioxide in sparkling wines is present in a free and unstable state, bound to peptides and proteins (Berti 1981). Bentonite is not specific in its interaction with wine constituents, and significant alterations in wine composition can occur as the result of bentonite fining. Excessive bentonite fining of sparkling wine cuvees can produce a finished product that has both a large bubble size and poor bubble retention as a result of too great a reduction in the protein and peptide content.


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## dangerdave

After a month in their respective bottles, I can no longer tell the difference between the two batches in a blind tasting. It's all delicious! Thanks again for all the feedback folks!


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## southlake333

Really? So the bite in the bentonite version went away?


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## Dend78

well after fully reading this thread i think this may be what i taste in my batch, there is definately an off flavor with lemon, i was getting worried that maybe the watermelon that i tossed in was souring the batch.

still not saying this is for sure what I taste but, i feel better in thinking this may be the cause, and then the fact that it can and probably will go away after a bit is even better.

my question is this, if one were to let this clear for a few days then rerack and backsweeten, do you feel that the off flavor would disipate just the same? i dont think being in the bottle would do anything to it but im to new at this to know any better.

if this is the case then i believe bentonite will make it to the use only in secondary in addition to sparkolloid, cause well lets face it who wants to wait a month to drink their wine


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## dangerdave

southlake333 said:


> Really? So the bite in the bentonite version went away?


 
I believe it is significantly improved to the point they are virtually indistinguishable.

@Dend78---I am yet to meet a wine that didn't improve in the bottle. Resting quietly in a cool dark place is just plain good for wine. Aging in the carboy can work the same, but I think (either way) we are talking in terms of months, not days.

The whole purpose for this study was to make good, clear, wine quickly. In my experience, the bentonite did nothing to advance this goal. Quite the contrary, really.


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## Dend78

my findings are about the same as yours Dave the lees really stick to the bottom of the glass carboy like i had to blast it with the sink sprayer to get it to let go


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## ShepherdQ

Hi Dave,

although late to this discussion, I'd like to add a couple things that I've been told about bentonite but that hasn't been mentioned here yet.

I read this thread after searching for bentonite, as I forgot to add it, prior to fermentation, to one of the batches I have clearing now. Called my LHBS, and they said not to worry, prior to fermentation bentonite just acts as a medium for the yeast to cling to. This seems to agree with your experience here, as you had clumps of yeast in the non-bentonite batch.

The purpose of the bentonite would seem to be to ensure a smooth, steady fermentation with quickly settling sediment afterward. This goes against what saramc posted earlier.

In any case, I'm now dying to make dragon's blood! Without bentonite!


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## dangerdave

Good luck, Rob, and thanks for the input!


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## Sammyk

Interesting subject since I sell calcium bentonite in my business and it is dirt cheap. It is used to clear ponds and make the water sparkle plus at large doses kills algae in ponds. It also enhances the colors in the koi fish. What I sell looks more like sparkelloid then the bentonite used in wine.
Sodium bentonite is what kitty litter is made of.

Just my 2 cents.


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## ShawnDTurner

to further add I usually skip Bent so that I can add Pectin Enzyme for extraction to the primary. I have used Bent in the clearing of my Meads and what a job it does, Quick and compact sediment. I was glad to hear that you gave them time in the bottle before drawing you final conclusion. I knew that the tartness would diminish and the wine would come together with a little time.


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## beggarsu

> Slowly stir the Hot Sparkolloid into the wine to be clarified. Sparkolloid produces very fine lees, and the lees settle out of the wine slowly. Consequently, this material should not be used less than 30 days before bottling time, or small amounts may precipitate later in the bottles. Many winemakers allow for an eight-week settling time just to be on the safe side.




http://brewersconnection.com/popup/Catalog/Sparkolloid.html


I just saw this.

I don't know how true this is, but it, to me is a good reason to prefer bentonite.


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## dangerdave

I have switched to kieselsol and chitosan (Super Klear). Sparkolloid was chosen originally for it's economic value alone. Filtering can also remove the last of the sparkolloid from your wine.


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## beggarsu

dangerdave said:


> I have switched to kieselsol and chitosan (Super Klear). Sparkolloid was chosen originally for it's economic value alone. Filtering can also remove the last of the sparkolloid from your wine.



Thanks 

Yeah I just read yesterday the thread where you converted. 

I was just about to post that they don't sell Super Klear here but if that's (Kieselsol and) Chitosan - then the store has got it.

If filtering takes out the sparkolloid then that's problem solved in that regard.


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## M38A1

Bumpity-Bump...

Interesting. So I recently made a double batch of Dragons Blood using blueberries only - no mixed fruit. With roughly 14 gallons of product to put in carboys, I wound up using two five gallons and a three gallon to hold it all. Remember, the contents were from the same primary fermenter (60l Speigel) and the same batch. Only the carboy sizes are different at this point.

When it came time to clear, I used three products to include Bentonite, Sparklloid, and the dual packet keiselol/chitosan. As of now all three are in the clearing stages and I have to say the Bentonite is by far the worst clearing of the group. Not only is the color considerably lighter, the particulates are just sitting there suspended even after several days. Whereas the Sparklloid and keiselol/chitosan carboys are crystal clear and ready to bottle.

I'm not sure if it's an interaction with the Bentonite and blueberries or what. But I won't be using Bentonite post fermentation with blueberries again. I had an Amazon delivery today for some more Sparklloid and I think I'm going to toss that at the Bentonite carboy this evening and see what happens.


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## montanarick

I've always found that bentonite, while good at clearing, leaves loose fluffy sediment that is difficult to rack. Must say I prefer the Chitosan/Kielselsol option better.


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## Arne

M38A1 said:


> Bumpity-Bump...
> 
> Interesting. So I recently made a double batch of Dragons Blood using blueberries only - no mixed fruit. With roughly 14 gallons of product to put in carboys, I wound up using two five gallons and a three gallon to hold it all. Remember, the contents were from the same primary fermenter (60l Speigel) and the same batch. Only the carboy sizes are different at this point.
> 
> When it came time to clear, I used three products to include Bentonite, Sparklloid, and the dual packet keiselol/chitosan. As of now all three are in the clearing stages and I have to say the Bentonite is by far the worst clearing of the group. Not only is the color considerably lighter, the particulates are just sitting there suspended even after several days. Whereas the Sparklloid and keiselol/chitosan carboys are crystal clear and ready to bottle.
> 
> I'm not sure if it's an interaction with the Bentonite and blueberries or what. But I won't be using Bentonite post fermentation with blueberries again. I had an Amazon delivery today for some more Sparklloid and I think I'm going to toss that at the Bentonite carboy this evening and see what happens.


Bet it clears fast when you mix the sparkaloid in. Arne.


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## Pistol Bill

Arne said:


> Bet it clears fast when you mix the sparkaloid in. Arne.


Agreed, bent then sparkolloid...works great with most fruit wines


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## Okie Parrish

@dangerdave just courius what your opinions on sparkloid bentonite superkleer are now after 5yrs experience and im assuming 150+ batches what have you learned in that time.........if you was to teach a newbie today how to make a batch what would you have them use


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## Bmd2k1

I'm curious to hear peeps experience with Sparkolloid.

Cheers!


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## Bmd2k1

Bmd2k1 said:


> I'm curious to hear peeps experience with Sparkolloid.
> 
> Cheers!


Anyone using Sparkolloid these days?


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