# Gravity not dropping



## jwmaverick (Mar 15, 2005)

Making a fruit base and and the specific gravity started at 1.090 in stage 1. It is supposed to drop to 1.040 in 5 or so days. It's been 10 days now and the gravity has only dropped to 1.088. What needs to be done to get to the 1.040? It's almost as if the fermentation did not start after adding the yeast. The temp of the must is within the proper range.


----------



## masta (Mar 15, 2005)

Welcome Jwmaverick and please provide moredetails on the actual recipe or kitthat you used including the type of yeast and how you prepared the yeast. 


Thanks


----------



## AAASTINKIE (Mar 15, 2005)

I'm just a beginner, but it sounds like you yeast didn't start working, don't do anything till someone with more expierience posts, but maybe something stopped the yeast, PH or acid level? or the yeast was not good to start, I would check the PH with a test paper strip to see if it is within the proper range, then take a cup of warm water 90-100 degree's tablespoon of sugar and put the yeast in and proof it, it will start foaming if it's OK, then mix it into the batch. It should have bubbled out of the airlock after the first day. I use an airlock on my primary, some people don't.


----------



## jwmaverick (Mar 15, 2005)

The Fruit wine base was the Vinter's Harvest Peach. I'm making the 3 gallon reciepe and the yeast I used was the Red Star = Cote des Blancs. The instructions stated to add the Peaches, water, sugar, acid blend, yeast nutrient, peptic enzyme, wine tannin and Campden tabletsand let sit overnight for the SO2 to release. The next day, I sprinkled the yeast on top of the must with no stirring. Then I gently stirred each day after that as directed.


----------



## masta (Mar 15, 2005)

Did you see any indication as to the fermentation starting at all...foaming or release of C02? Was the recipe supplied by the manufacturer of the peach product? May be a silly question but I will ask anyway....did you add any sorbate to the must?


A easy answer as towhy it didn't ferment would be that the yeast was not any good. I always re hydrated my yeast before pitching and you can tell if it doesn't look good.....plus I think it gives it an extra boost and quicker start to fermentation.*Edited by: masta *


----------



## jwmaverick (Mar 15, 2005)

Did not see any fermentation process at all and the reciepe was supplied by the supplier. No sorbate was added since it goes in after the racking. Never made it that far. So it sounds like I need to add another batch of yeast to get the fermentation to start. This is my first attempt in making a wine that is not in a kit form.


----------



## masta (Mar 15, 2005)

Sounds like a great plan and try to re hydrate your yeast this time before adding. After the yeast is hydrated I also add some of the must to the glass Pyrex measuring cups I use and let it sit 15-20 mins then mix gently and pitch into primary. 


Lalvin Site: http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/lalvinrehyd.htm l


Red Star Site: http://www.lesaffreyeastcorp.com/wineyeast/products.html*Edited by: masta *


----------



## Maui Joe (Mar 15, 2005)

Yes, keep us informed, I plan soon to make a similiar wine.


----------



## MedPretzel (Mar 15, 2005)

Well, I think too little emphasis has been placed on temperature. What is "proper temperature?" In any case, it should be around 63-73 degrees optimally.





Sorbate should not be added til the end anyway.





How many Campden tablets? That could also be the culprit.


----------



## Hippie (Mar 15, 2005)

Was going to be my exact question, Martina. 


How much campden was aded to the must?


Get some fresh yeast for now, either Lalvin K1V-1116 or EC-1118.


----------



## jwmaverick (Mar 15, 2005)

The temperature stays a constant 73 degrees. The receipe called for 3 campden tablets which I used 3/8 teaspoon of Potassium Metabisufite (1/8 teaspoon per gallon). And I'm making 3 gallons.


----------



## Hippie (Mar 15, 2005)

Way too much sulphite! Ok this is what we're gonna do:


Start stirring now, very vigorously. Get some Lalvin EC-118 yeast. You can make a starter exactly as Maui Joe instructed through those links. I never have a problem just sprinkling it on, even in high sulphite conditions, but you need to know how to make a yeast starter anyhow.


I think after this it will take off like a rocket. Get busy.


----------



## MedPretzel (Mar 15, 2005)

Trust Glenvall on this one. He's the Wine-Meister!!!


----------



## Hippie (Mar 15, 2005)

No, just trust the EC-1118. Back up what you read here with some good books.


----------



## MedPretzel (Mar 16, 2005)

Yes, I agree with reading, reading, reading. That is *almost* more important than sanitizing.









Just kidding, of course.


----------



## Maui Joe (Mar 16, 2005)

You gotta "Grab the bull by the horns" my friend would say everytime he faced a challenge...I have always remembered those words!*Edited by: Maui Joe *


----------



## MedPretzel (Mar 16, 2005)

That reminds me of a saying my dad CONSTANTLY says (to the point you wanna shake him):





"There are no problems in life: Only challenges."





Currently he's stuck on the phrase "Perception is reality." Not a good thing when you're stressed out.


----------



## geocorn (Mar 16, 2005)

This is the second time this has happened with one of the Fruit Bases. How much sulfite should I tell future customers to use for a 3-gallon batch and a 5-gallon batch?


Country, would you like to see the instructions that come on the can? If you want to play with one, let me know and I will send you one for research purposes. Just tell me what flavor you want and what you need.


You have all been a great help on this topic. Thank You!


----------



## Maui Joe (Mar 17, 2005)

It sounds to me George like a suphite issue if the instructions gave that much to throw in. Is this one (1) of the items I have coming as well?


----------



## geocorn (Mar 17, 2005)

Maui,


Yes, it is. One of the customers with this problem got some more yeast and followed my stuck fermentation procedures and it is now fermenting away. I think it is a sulfite issue, but I would defer to CW as to how much you should add. CW?


----------



## Maui Joe (Mar 17, 2005)

George thanks for the info.


----------



## Moses (Mar 17, 2005)

I had the same problem with a batch of blueberry and strawberry this past week. I went through the procedure and didnt have any fermentation occuring. George sent me some Lalvin EC-118 and I rehydrated it and added some must to it. Let it sit, add some more, doubling the amount each time until I had a whole gallon going. Then added it tothe other four gallons. Worked like a charm. My only concern is that I had to add alot of acid blend to get the must up to .55 to .60. I tested using the syringe method. Later on I tested with some liptus paper and it indicated High Acid. Im wondering if I'll lose some acid through fermentation or if I'll have to reduce it with calcium.


----------



## masta (Mar 17, 2005)

Please check out this link it will explain acids in great detail and should answer this question for you. Tasting and testing after fermentation is complete will help decide the next course of action.


http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/acid.asp


----------



## Joseph1 (Mar 17, 2005)

When fresh and completely dissolved, one campden tablet will add about 75ppm of SO2 to the must or wine. 1/8 teaspoon of bisulfite per gallon adds about 120ppm of SO2.


Perhaps the single advantage of campden tablets is the measured dose. One tablet per gallon is an easy measurement. This can be difficult to accomplish with measuring spoons where about 1/16 of a teaspoon is about one campden tablet. I think you would be safe with a rounded1/8 teaspoon in 3 gallons and a rounded1/4 teaspoonin 5 gallons. CountryWine canprovide more insight on this.


To overcome the problems in completely dissolving campden tablets and measuring sulfite powder with measuring spoons, I prepare and use a 10% sulfite solution. One teaspoon of 10% sulfite solution is about equal to one campden tablet.


----------



## AAASTINKIE (Mar 18, 2005)

the solution to campden tablets disolving is go buy a pill crusher at
the drug store, I can crush 4 at a time to a fine powder and they
disolve completely on contact


----------



## masta (Mar 18, 2005)

I have done plenty of research and lots of thinking on this topic of problems with fermentation of fruit other than grapes and here are my thoughts:
<UL>
<LI>manygrapes contain all the correct amount of compounds/nutrients to allow for a successful and complete fermentation even without adding yeast (this has been done for thousands of years) 
<LI>fresh fruit, canned purees, and solid pack fruit do not have all these correct compounds/nutrients for a successful and complete fermentation (Oregon Fruit Purees are sterile *no heating or sulfite is needed)* 
<LI>heating the fruit or veggies to at least 150 degrees F will kill off the wild yeasts and bacteria so no sulfite should be needed when using recipelike this 
<LI>adding sulfites also prevents wild yeasts and bacteriafrom taking over or ruining your controlled fermentation 
<LI>using commercially prepared yeasts is done to control the final alcohol amount and also help bring out certain flavors in the wine 
<LI>using too much sulfite will certainly inhibit the fermentation and remember not all yeasts are created equal...some are more tolerant of sulfite/nutrients and other compounds 
<LI>I believe that the instructions provided with some of the solid pack fruit may be airing the on the high end of the sulfite level for the most protection against the nasties (75-100 ppm is plenty at the start and these levels should drop before the yeast is added) 
<LI>As Joesph and others have pointed out, correct measurement and application of sulfites in any form is key to provide the protection and also not to cause problems with fermentation 
<LI>treating your yeast properly and understanding how it works is also key knowledge for a wine maker 
<LI>I truly believe re hydrating your yeast properly and not just sprinkling it over the must is very important to a successful fermentation every time! I do not understand why some instructions say to do this and I am not saying it will not work but why not give your yeast the best chance of success!</LI>[/list]


found this article and wanted to share....as CW says read read read!


http://www.makewine.com/makewine/yeast1.html


*Edited by: masta *


----------



## MedPretzel (Mar 18, 2005)

masta said:


> manygrapes contain all the correct amount of compounds/nutrients to allow for a successful and complete fermentation even without adding yeast (this has been done for thousands of years)




Don't ever try this. It's more trouble than it's worth.


----------



## masta (Mar 18, 2005)

I agree...I am not that daring either but I work with two guys who make hundreds of gallons of wine this way every year. with great success...old school Italians


----------



## geocorn (Mar 18, 2005)

In the last article of WineMaker Magazine, Tim Vandergrift explained the rational behindsprinkling, instead of rehydrating. Bascially, it is a more foolproof method than re-hydrating. As we all know, yeasts are extremely temperature sensitive and not all home wine makers have the necessary equipment to make sure the water used for re-hydrating does not get too hot. Since, as was pointed out, varietal grapes always have plenty of the right incredients for the yeasts to multiply, the sprinkling works well.


However; fresh fruits are a completely different story, so re-hydration is probably the better avenue.


----------



## masta (Mar 18, 2005)

I would be interested in reading this article....haven't started getting my subscription as of yet.


I use to be a sprinkler and Iknow both ways work....so what ever methods works for you is best. Maybe a poll item is in order to find out what our members are doing?


----------



## Maui Joe (Mar 18, 2005)

I generally do the "sprinkle" method. I also re-hydrate, rarely and when only necessary..


----------



## MedPretzel (Mar 18, 2005)

I also do the sprinkle method when I want to do it quickly. But now and then, usually on a whim, I also re-hydrate.


----------



## Hippie (Mar 18, 2005)

I rehydrated yeast one time, in the early days of my winemaking. I could not see the difference it made in my wine,although it worked well, and I have been simple sprinkling the yeast on top of the must ever since. Ya gotta get some on the bag of pulp also, and do not stir or otherwise mess with it until fermentation is obvious.


Never use more than one campden tablet per gallon of must, noting the level in your fermentor with the pulp bag lifted up. As Stinkie advised, use a pill crusher. I put the campden and other ingredients in a blender with some of the must and hit the highest button for a few seconds. It will be mixed well then.


If using K-Meta powder for batches less than 6 gallons, you need a milligram scale. One-quarter tsp. is the amount for 6 gallons, whether sanitizing must or stabilizing the finished wine. One-eighth tsp. would be correct for 3 gallons, but is difficult to measure accurately. Your campden tablets should be K-Meta. nowadays, and are much easier to use. I highly recommend them.


----------



## partsguy73 (Jan 28, 2014)

Hi I'm real new to this and this is my problem.I started with 12 can of cranberry concentrate and added 4ld sugar.SG was at about 220 and it is higher now than a week ago .Temp is 73 yeast was stated prperly and was bibbling every 7 seconds for 6 days and now is down to 30 seconds.Taste is sweet.Why no drop on hydrometer


----------



## sour_grapes (Jan 28, 2014)

partsguy73 said:


> Hi I'm real new to this and this is my problem.I started with 12 can of cranberry concentrate and added 4ld sugar.SG was at about 220 and it is higher now than a week ago .Temp is 73 yeast was stated prperly and was bibbling every 7 seconds for 6 days and now is down to 30 seconds.Taste is sweet.Why no drop on hydrometer



Wait, your reported SG (220) does not make any sense. Can you verify the reading a week ago and what it is now?


----------

