# First brew jitters



## jamesjr

Well I just got my first ingredients kit and its a true brew nut brown ale. 
I am extremely nervous im going to do one little thing wrong and ruin the whole batch so I have a few questions for y'all
1. I have an old aluminum Turkey fryer pot that has been used to fry things and I have an older stainless steel pot that could use some cleaning which is better?
2. My propane burner is broke at the moment will stove top give me proper btus? 
3.kit says to boil with 2.5 gallons isn't more better.
4. I have a 5 gallon and a 7 or so gallon carboy which is better? Do I want head space?
5. Ive read that the instructions for these things arent that good? Or do I follow to a t?


Im completely new to breweing beer ive made some wine but man I love a good beer. Any other helps hints along the way would 've great if u need more info from me just let me kno thanks
-james


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## richmke

Let me start by saying that I don't brew beer, but I stayed in a holiday inn express last night ...



jamesjr said:


> 1. I have an old aluminum Turkey fryer pot that has been used to fry things and I have an older stainless steel pot that could use some cleaning which is better?



In general, metal cleans up well, so I wouldn't worry too much about transferring taste from frying. That assumes there is not any residual coating on the pot.

I prefer steel over aluminum. So, if I were you, I would clean up the old steel pot.



> 2. My propane burner is broke at the moment will stove top give me proper btus?



If you can get the water to boil, you are good to go.



> 3.kit says to boil with 2.5 gallons isn't more better.
> 5. Ive read that the instructions for these things arent that good? Or do I follow to a t?



If this is your first brew, follow the directions. As you gain more experience, you will learn why you want to change the steps, and how to change the steps to improve the final product.



> 4. I have a 5 gallon and a 7 or so gallon carboy which is better? Do I want head space?



Assuming you are making a 5 gallon batch, you will want the 7 gallon for fermentation. Do the instructions have a racking step? If so, you would then rack into the 5 gallon.


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## jamesjr

Thanks for answering my questions and no it just says rack into bottling bucket so ferment in the 7 gallon and rack into bottling bucket. Also the stainless bucket has like rust stains not rust cuz it is stainless but like nasty water sat in there also the aluminum looks fine but is kinda faded and dull on the inside kinda blotchy inside but im soaking both in oxyclean.


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## HB_in_Subic

I agree on the 7 gallon bucket for fermentation. The oxyclean should clean up your kettle just fine. Don't forget to clean the spigot on your bottling bucket prior to racking the beer into it. 

I would use cold water for your top up water (added to the wort after the boil). This helps cool the wort down quicker. Also read up on the yeast's temperature range to get the wort into the ideal range prior to pitching.

If you want to do full boils (5-6 gallons) you need a good burner (not your kitchen burner).

Also, check out http://www.homebrewtalk.com lots of good reading up on the forum. Welcome to the madness.


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## jamesjr

Ok kool thanks eventually I will do a full boil but not on this one but went to sanitize everything and realized I dont have the right size rubber stopper lol this sucks I was so stoked to get it boiling


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## HB_in_Subic

If you are going to bottle, you will need bottles, bottling wand, tubing, siphon, bottle capper and caps. If you get the flip top bottles (like Grolsch) then you won't need a bottle capper and caps. Also, figure out a good place to store your bottles while the beer conditions. Preferably a dark cool place (closet or basement).

After you cool down your wort and transfer it to the fermenting bucket, use your wine whip on the wort to aerate it and get it good and frothy before you pitch the yeast. Use a rubber mallet to seal the bucket lid tight and pop in the airlock and you are done. Beer is labor intensive in the beginning and when you bottle or keg. In between you just wait and monitor for FG stabilizing and the yeast to drop out.


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## jamesjr

Yea I got plenty of bottles ive been drinking becks and the labels come off easy but ive got a few hundred bottles and a few hundred caps and no basement in fl but ill find a good dark closet. Eventually I want to keg but it seems so expensive to get the equipment


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## jswordy

Don't be nervous. The crucial time in beer is when you are cooling your wort. You want to make that as short a period as possible, so have plenty of ice on hand. The shorter the time to get it down to yeast pitching temp, the less chance for contamination and the better cold break you will get to help the beer be clearer.

Most kits recommend an ice water bath. Some say you can toss ice in the wort, some say don't. I have only brewed twice but have done it both ways with no trouble.

Once you begin your boil and create wort, everything that touches the wort after the boil has ended must be sanitized first. Most beer does not have the higher alcohol content of wines, so it cannot fend for itself when it comes to sterility. It needs your help.

During the boil, though, you can dunk the liquid malt extract container in the water to get hot water in it for the last bit of extract and etc. The high heat will kill any bugs. That's why brewers who have a wort chiller stick it in the pot during the boil, just before ending it. The chiller is sanitized by the heat.

Be sure you clean your pot with a brewery cleaning agent (Easy Clean, One-Step, Star San) and resist the urge to clean anything you use with soap of any kind. A pure water and scrubbing clean followed by sanitation is preferable to any use of soap. That's is because soap is the enemy of a nice foamy head, as is oil.

I know people who use aluminum, stainless steel and enameled steel. You can get a really nice SS pot by Bayou Classics relatively cheap at Overstock.com when you get into it more. I got an 8 gallon one I use now so I can do a full 5-gallon boil. Bayou Classics also makes other beer-making pots and equipment in SS, also available on Overstock.com. But i really doesn't take a whole lot to brew on a basic level.

The best thing I learned from my advisers is to use a sanitized secondary in the fermentation process. Many kit instructions recommend it, too. In my two brews so far, I have seen the value of it in the amount of lees and protein chains it takes out of the beer prior to bottling. Using a secondary gives you two chances to get this job done. Straight to the bucket is make-or-break in that regard.

Good luck, and if you can please post pix and keep us updated. It's fun.


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## jamesjr

Well thanks for all the helpfull info im about to embark on my journey tonight ill post pics and keep ya updated


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## jamesjr

Also yea ive been using star san on everything and I used 3 gallon for the boil in a 5 gallon kettle also it says for the aroma hops 45 minutes. Is that 45 min boil it or after boil? Its kinda vague instructions


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## HB_in_Subic

Usually you boil for an hour. The timer starts when you drop in the first hops. I see you are using hopped malt extract. I have never used that before and couldn't tell you the proper method. The specialty grains you put in a muslin bag and steep for 25m at 155F.


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## jamesjr

Ok all done and hopefully I did this correct. 
I put all my grains in the bag put in water then b raught the water to 155 and held it there for 15 minutes took the bag out and brought to boil to it off the heat and added my lme and dme and brown sugar. Brought to a slow rolling boil for 45 minutes and at the end of the boil added the aroma fuggle hops gave it all a good ice bath and cooled it Down after 15 minutes and then siphoned off to carboy added an extra water to bring up to 5 gallons and took sg which its 1.052 instructions said for it to be between 49-50. Is that bad its over? 
Also the cold water I added to bring the temp down I gave a good shake to get some air in.


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## HB_in_Subic

It's not bad to be over by a point or two. What temperature was the wort when you pitched your yeast?

Most of the kits I have used, recommend steeping the specialty grains for 25 minutes. 

Now you have to be patient and let it sit for a few weeks. Did you put a blow off tube on the Airlock?


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## jamesjr

Well I was fermenting it in my bedroom closet and and I guess it shot the airlock 6 feet in the air because there foam splatter goes that high and the air lock is just sitting on the ground full of wort. And now it has a slow steady stream of bubbles flowing out with no air lock.

What do I do now? I cant put an airlock on because it'll blow it again? 
Is it gonna ruin it? I dont want it contaminated


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## jamesjr

I just threw a Red Solo Cup on the top but now I'm on my way to work reeking of beer lol


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## HB_in_Subic

hahaha, do the blow off tube like I suggested and you will be OK...

WoW! looking at the time stamp of my post and you showing the blow off makes me laugh hard.

As long as it continues to flow out you are ok but get a blowoff going as soon as you can for peace of mind...


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## jswordy

I see I am late to the party but oh well...

That blowoff pic is why I am not doing primaries in a carboy. LOL. I'll stick with the bucket, where there's more room for the krausen.

Your beer is protected by a layer of CO2 during rapid ferment. I doubt it will be harmed. Some brewers even do primary in a towel covered bucket like winemakers do.

Did your recipe REALLY call for TWO pounds of DME in the boil? My gosh, what was your OG? 3-4 pounds of extract is usually good with just one pound DME added. A higher gravity/more sugar recipe is likely the cause of the very active ferment.

Interesting recipe. So, you started out with the specialty grains, then added the hopped extract and DME, then added the aroma hops late, right?


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## jamesjr

Ya HB I shoulda listened lol any how yea it was a very strong ferment full of gunk and grain flowing out in the krausen 

Also yea it did call for 2 pounds and a pound of brow. Sugar and my starting sg was 1.052


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## jamesjr

And yes jswordy that's the order I put the aroma hops in last right before flame out. And now my house smells like beer


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## jswordy

jamesjr said:


> And yes jswordy that's the order I put the aroma hops in last right before flame out. And now my house smells like beer



I am glad to hear you say there is a silver lining!


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## jamesjr

Lol. 
Anyway a few more questions if I may. There is alot of hop and grain debris stuck in the top of my carboy now and im sure all in there. Will that settle into a trub if I have my lingo down yet or should I secondary? I have gelatin here as well as a fining agent? Its a very dark beer im not expecting to see through it but if I can pack it all down good before I bottle the better right? Also in my instructions it has no target final gravity, what should I aim for? Or just let it ride out for 3-4 weeks. How crucial is time now? Is it like wine were time is the cure?


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## HB_in_Subic

The debris will settle in the yeast cake over time. I never use a fining agent with my beer and they are usually clear when I drink them. I regularly let my beer sit in primary for 3 weeks. I am even going to dry hop an IPA in primary about 5 days before I bottle. The ferment will be done in about 10 days and the remainder of the time allows for the yeast and particles to drop out of solution. Once you bottle it, let it sit for 3 weeks. Don't forget to prime it in the bottling bucket with 4-4.5 oz of corn sugar (rack the beer into the bottling bucket, pour the sugar (dissolved in 500ml of water) into the beer after about 1/2 inch or so of beer is in the bucket and has a nice swirling action.

After a week in bottle, taste test one for carbonation and so you also know what it tastes like green.

I would expect a gravity reading below 1.020, something like 1.01ish. Take a gravity reading about 3 days before bottling and another on the day that you want to bottle. If it is the same and below 1.02 you are probably done and it will be safe to prime and bottle. If it is still dropping, wait until you get two consecutive readings that are the same.


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## HB_in_Subic

jswordy said:


> Did your recipe REALLY call for TWO pounds of DME in the boil? My gosh, what was your OG? 3-4 pounds of extract is usually good with just one pound DME added. A higher gravity/more sugar recipe is likely the cause of the very active ferment.
> 
> Interesting recipe. So, you started out with the specialty grains, then added the hopped extract and DME, then added the aroma hops late, right?



Most of the kits that I have used have 6lbs of DME for a 1.052ish beer. I also add 1 lb of corn sugar to get it up to 6%. 

I just made a barleywine that had 9 lbs of DME (required two packs of yeast).


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## jamesjr

Yea the yeast had no problem chomping away lol as you can see also thanks I wasn't sure if I let it run down dry or what or if I can primary. Like I said ive only made small batches of wine before


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## jswordy

HB_in_Subic said:


> Most of the kits that I have used have 6lbs of DME for a 1.052ish beer. I also add 1 lb of corn sugar to get it up to 6%.
> 
> I just made a barleywine that had 9 lbs of DME (required two packs of yeast).




Wow. The kits I have brewed or have got in stock to brew yet, from two sources, have 3.15-4 pounds LME and a pound of DME for a SG in 1.045 range. I do have one kit that is 3 lbs. LME initial, late 3 lbs. LME addition, no DME at all. Still new to it.


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## HB_in_Subic

I was getting my kits primarily from Austin Homebrew. I did get a couple of kits from Ritebrew and Rebel Brewer and they had the same amount of DME. I make primarily Saisons, Irish Red, Dry Stout and an Amber Bock Ale.


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## jamesjr

Yeah I want to make an irish red a wheat beer and a few more. Im just recently getting into tasting other beers and trying craft beers. Growing up we always baught the cheap stuff lol and now im getting out there when I have the extra funds and trying different things. But I cNty honestly say there is nothing I like avout an ipa


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## HB_in_Subic

I prefer the english styles myself (Irish Red, Stouts, Porters and Belgian Ales).


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## jswordy

Bring on the MALT, laddies!


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## jamesjr

Well how long do I lit it sit? It hasn't bubbled in some time also how long does star san stay good for once mixed up? I have it in a five gallon bucket and how many bottles should I get clean? And how should I do it with no pump? Thing


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## HB_in_Subic

I let my beer sit in primary for 21 days minimum. Check your gravity at day 14. If it is 1.02 or above, raise the temperature in your fermentation chamber a couple of degrees to wake your yeast up and get them to finish below 1.02. Or move the carboy to a slightly warmer part of the house (out of sun). Check gravity again on day 17 and day 21. If the last two readings are the same, you are ready to bottle.

Star san is good until it turns milky.

Number of bottles depends on beer batch size and size of bottles.

5.25 Gallons = 672 floz.= 56 12 oz bottles or 42 16 oz bottles

I use one liter bombers and end up with 21 or 22 bottles full. 

To bottle you will need a bottling bucket, autosiphon, tubing, bottling wand. First you get 500ml of water hot and dissolve 4.25 oz of corn sugar in it (I use a pyrex cup). Once dissolved I put in the freezer for 20 minutes to cool it off. I move the Primary to a counter or my ferm chamber top. I clean and sanitize the bottling equipment and bottles. Once your bottles are ready (no need to dry just drain off excess starsan), start up the siphon to your bottling bucket. Make sure that the tube is tight (not allowing bubbles in) and is looped at the bottom of the bucket so that it creates a whirlpool. Once the beer is 1/2" to 1" deep I pour the cooled sugar solution into the whirlpooling beer. You do not want excessive bubbles which could lead to oxidation. Your siphon should be positioned just above the yeast cake. Some people push it into the yeast cake at the edge and form a bowl around it. You should be able to transfer all but maybe 1/2L without any particles. When the siphon is finished, put the bottling bucket where the primary was. Take the tube and bottling wand and attach to the spigot. Fill the bottles to the top. The wand displaces the proper amount for the bottle to reduce oxygen exposure. Cap each bottle as you go.

I also put a sample of pre-primed beer into a cup to taste. This gives you an idea of how it turned out minus carbonation. If it is good without bubbles it will be great with.


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## jamesjr

Thanks man u been realy helpfull through out all of the and they sent me with kit a packet of priming sugar as well I went to go take the rubber stopper out and it wont its extremely stuck since it bubbled over and got all that sticky gooey so no I gotta figure a way to get that out


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## jamesjr

Man I just read back at my post. And I literally type like im drunk all the time lol im a 25 yr old that isn't computer/smartphone literate. Anyway im in the process of cleaning 50 something of my old becks bottles while drinking a few but wow I guess just because I dont have the process down I might drink as many as im cleaning im getting the labels and majority of everything off and cleaned and im just gonna soak in star san till I need to bottle probably in a week or so then ill run them through some fresh star san solution and bottle. I think im gonna make a bottle tree eventually out of wood and nails? Lol too country? But that's my plan for now I cant seem to get them all upright the milk crates to drain


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## HB_in_Subic

I don't use a bottle tree. I just drain, then line them up to bottle. 

I have found that warm water with PBW will get the labels off easy. I usually let them soak overnight and then rinse really well. Remember Starsan is a sanitizer not a cleaner. PBW is a cleaner. 

It sounds to me like you have a solid stopper? Get a couple of stoppers like in the picture below, in the size that you need. These are much easier to get out. Maybe use a screwdriver (inserted in the hole of the stopper) to get the stopper out when it is time?


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## jamesjr

Its actually a one gallon carboy stopper in a 5 gallon carboy I just pushed the airlock in far enough to get it to fit air tight and yea I was thinking sanitize screw driver. And yea I kno it isn't a cleaner its a sanitizer but I figured why not its gotta be better than just water I soaked in oxyclean and rinsed brushed rinsed and now there soaking I figure tho in one week they'll be ready to bottle, its turning out BLACK Guinness black I thaught it would clear up a bit by now but its in the closet now im fixing to move it up on the counter were ill be filling the bottles so I wont have to disturb it on bottling day


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## jswordy

jamesjr said:


> Well how long do I lit it sit? It hasn't bubbled in some time also how long does star san stay good for once mixed up? I have it in a five gallon bucket and how many bottles should I get clean? And how should I do it with no pump? Thing



Here's how I do it:

1.) Prepare 58 bottles, to make sure you have enough. You'll generally get a 5-gallon yield of 50-57 (some brands of beer have gone to 11.5 ounce bottles, so it varies if you are reusing bottles). I put my bottles in the dishwasher with no soap and run the full cycle with hot dry. Ready to go.

2.) I am using my wine equipment and a secondary. When it slows up ferment, I switch to secondary for 3 weeks, then bottle. So at bottling I siphon mine from the secondary to a clean carboy and bottle from that. But you may want to leave yours in the bucket under airlock for 3 weeks. A lot do it that way, too.

3.) After 3 weeks, at bottling, you need either another bucket, a carboy or a "bottling bucket" that has a spigot on it. 

4.) Add your diluted priming sugar to your bottling vessel first. I dilute by heating a cup of water in the microwave then dissolving the sugar and letting it cool some.

5.) Simply siphon from your primary or secondary to the second bucket or carboy, being careful not to suck up any trub from the bottom. You will bottle the liquid from this operation out of the second vessel.

6.) To do that without a special "bottling bucket," all you need is a sanitized bottling wand (just like with wine), hose and a bottle filler that goes on the end of the tube. I prefer a spring loaded bottle filler. Just line up your bottles, have your caps sitting in a Star-San solution, and bottle about a dozen, put the caps on and cap. Then the next dozen.

Other notes:

1.) Sanitizer like Star San, One Step, Easy Clean, stay good for a long time after mixing. I keep mine in a gallon fruit juice jug.

2.) I like a carboy secondary for 3 weeks because it makes my beer clearer. I like using carboys also because I have an orange two-port cap the wand goes through where you can just blow on the second port to start the siphon, rather than sucking on the end of the hose.

Hope this gets you going. Everything sounds good for you as of now.


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## jswordy

BTW, those stoppers like in HB's pic can be used on both fivers and one gallon. Turn it over for one gallon.


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## jamesjr

My primary is a 5 gallon carboy which i will never do again and also its a big controversy I see about secondarys . Now I want a fairly clear beer but my only other carboy is big its like 7 or 8 gallon. Will that head space effect the beer? Also I have bentonite and gelatin. For my wine making is either of those ever used for beer


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## HB_in_Subic

The fermenting buckets I use are 7.9 Gallon. I usually make a 23L batch and sometimes run out of head room = blow off tube. Not a big deal. I would use the 7 or 8 gallon carboy over the 5. Make sure you put in at least 5.25 gallons of wort. The head space won't affect the beer as there will be a CO2 blanket once the krausen has dropped. 

Some people use gelatin for fining. I have never needed it. 95% has usually settled by 3 weeks and the rest settles during bottle conditioning. Cold condition your bottles at least 1-2 days before drinking. This further forces the particles to settle and forces the CO2 back into solution. This helps avoid the "gushers" when you first open your bottle.


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## jamesjr

Yea I used a 5 gallon primary which I realize now is crazy I have that bigger one but I baught it at a garage sale and im nervous on using it because theres a little but if cloudyness on the inside no mateer how long I soak it


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## jswordy

I wouldn't call the secondary thing a controversy. It makes my beer clear without using additives like Irish Moss (health issues - look it up, carrageenan) or Whirlfloc (same issue). And is keeps the in-bottle lees very compact. I like both.

But many people don't use secondaries. It's a matter of personal choice.

About your cloudiness, as long as it is sanitized, there should be no issues whatsoever.

I see Star-San goes bad. Makes me glad I use Easy Clean! I have never had a contamination problem, wine or beer.


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## jamesjr

Well tommorow will be 2 weeks and about to bottle ive moved my carboy in racking position tonight so I dont stir it up right before I rack to my bottling bucket. Ive reached an ending gravity of 1.016 and that's in the range the kit says so im excited to get my beer in the bottle its by no means clear its really dark and at the bottom it has a layer of dark which I think is grains and a layer of white which im assuming yeast? Also I plan on using just a bottle of water to mix with the priming sugar


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## jswordy

Hope you left all that stuff in the bucket behind in your bottling. It's generically called "trub."

Your beer will likely further clarify in the bottle.


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## jamesjr

Oh yea I left it behind and gave it to the pigs lol I got 46 bottles out of it


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## Elmer

jswordy said:


> I wouldn't call the secondary thing a controversy. It makes my beer clear without using additives like Irish Moss (health issues - look it up, carrageenan) or Whirlfloc (same issue). And is keeps the in-bottle lees very compact. I like both.
> 
> But many people don't use secondaries. It's a matter of personal choice.
> 
> .



I rack out of primary into a carboy. I cold crash.
Then just prior to bottling I rack off the sediment into another carboy than bottle.

For the record I use the AI1 to rack, along with a long hose so there is no splash racking involved. 
Cold Crashing helps clear the beer.
No idea what I will do in the summer time!


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## jamesjr

Elmer what time frames are u talking about in each fermenter? Or are u going off sg readings?


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## jswordy

Elmer said:


> I rack out of primary into a carboy. I cold crash.
> Then just prior to bottling I rack off the sediment into another carboy than bottle.
> 
> For the record I use the AI1 to rack, along with a long hose so there is no splash racking involved.
> Cold Crashing helps clear the beer.
> No idea what I will do in the summer time!



If you cold break well at the wort chilling phase and hustle those temps down fast, my understanding is that it should have the same effect. I've used cold crash on wines in a fridge a lot, but have not tried it with beer. It generally is not cold enough outdoors here to do it.


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## Elmer

jswordy said:


> If you cold break well at the wort chilling phase and hustle those temps down fast, my understanding is that it should have the same effect. I've used cold crash on wines in a fridge a lot, but have not tried it with beer. It generally is not cold enough outdoors here to do it.



I thought about using my chest freezer for a short period of time. Get it really cold and pull it out.
Of course this would require me to empty everything in the chest freezer. Figure out how to carefully lower & raise a glass carboy into the freezer.
Finally I would have to find storage space for all the frozen food!

SWMBO was not thrilled with the idea!


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## jamesjr

So my beer has been bottling carbing for a little over a week now when should I start putting some in the fridge and when. Can k finnaly enjoy it? Lol the suspense is killing me!!!!


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## HB_in_Subic

I would put 1 in the fridge now. Let it sit for 24 hours so that the CO2 goes back into solution. Then try it. If anything it will give you an idea as to where it is in the carbing process. Some beers can be ready in 2 weeks, some 3. It will also give you a taste as to whether it needs to sit longer (tastes green).


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## Elmer

jamesjr said:


> So my beer has been bottling carbing for a little over a week now when should I start putting some in the fridge and when. Can k finnaly enjoy it? Lol the suspense is killing me!!!!



My first batch I tried at:
1 week, was unimpressed & disappointed. (watery flavor and not very carbed)
2 weeks- it was carbed and getting better
3 week- it was what a pale ale should be. the flavors come together and it was good.

I would suggest trying them at different stages to get an idea of where it is at, during the process.

Just like drinking green wine!


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## jswordy

jamesjr said:


> So my beer has been bottling carbing for a little over a week now when should I start putting some in the fridge and when. Can k finnaly enjoy it? Lol the suspense is killing me!!!!



It has taken a minimum 2 weeks for mine to be worth cooling and testing (at 3-4 oz prime) and nearly 3 weeks (~19 days or so) for it to be really carbed good.

Like with my winemaking, I taste it at every stage of the entire process.


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## HB_in_Subic

I agree to taste it once a week to reaffirm what has been told to you and how to recognize where it is at. 

Even with a 3 weeks ferment and 3 weeks bottled it doesn't always work out correctly. Hence, the value of a hydrometer.


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## Jimyson

When I bottle conditioned, I found it to be 4-6 weeks to be a safe time to know that it's complete.


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## jamesjr

Wow I thaught ive replied already sorry guys any how I have yet to put any in the fridge ive been b uisy with work and this pig that's been getting out of his pen EVERYDAY well dont have to worry about him now after tonight. I plan on putting a few in there tommorow as its been over 2 weeks now ive been drinking Newcastle laitly as that's what this is supposed to be similar to to kinda get a feel for this style to tell if I did ok but my beer is extremely darker than the Newcastle.


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## Elmer

After 12 days in the basement (61F) I put a few bottles in the fridge.
I drank the next day, they were carbed and just fine.
But I am impatient.


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## wineinmd

Elmer said:


> After 12 days in the basement (61F) I put a few bottles in the fridge.
> I drank the next day, they were carbed and just fine.
> But I am impatient.


That's a little surprising that they carbed up in less than two weeks at such a low temperature. Usually mine take 2+ weeks even at 68-70F.


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## jamesjr

Well there it is my brewers best nut brown ale. Im very pleased. It says it supposed to resemble a Newcastle but I'd say between Newcastle and Guinness. Good roasted flavor ok body. I was hoping for more head retention but overall for my first brew im Damn proud


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## wineinmd

Looks great. Congrats!


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## Elmer

jamesjr said:


> Well there it is my brewers best nut brown ale. Im very pleased. It says it supposed to resemble a Newcastle but I'd say between Newcastle and Guinness. Good roasted flavor ok body. *I was hoping for more head retention *but overall for my first brew im Damn proud



How much prime sugar did you use?
How many gallons of brew?

I always use 1/2 oz more then recommended, simply because I like a ton of head!


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## jswordy

Careful on adding too much extra prime. Ka-BLOOIE! 

The bottle may not bust, but the cap will leak.

First thing with head retention is, use NO SOAP on any of your brewing equipment. Use cleaner/sanitizer. Second thing is, use NO SOAP on your beer glasses. Use cleaner/sanitizer, or rinse very thoroughly with HOT water after using soap. I have gotten to where I just wash my personal glass in very hot water alone.

Next, explore maltodextrin as a way to improve head retention. Use 1/4 to 1 lb. per 5 gal. to improve body and head retention.

As we all progress, we can fiddle with Biscuit malt addition, too, which adds a biscuit flavor and improves head retention. In fact, I'm doing just that with my next batch, my own recipe.


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## jswordy

Just remembered -  - I forgot to tell you that beer looks EXCELLENT, James!


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## jamesjr

Thanks man and its good to it does have good head retention I just poored that one so slow and c arefull not to get any gunk that didn't have a chance to get a head. And what kind of recipee u whipping up? All grain?


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## jswordy

jamesjr said:


> Thanks man and its good to it does have good head retention I just poored that one so slow and c arefull not to get any gunk that didn't have a chance to get a head. And what kind of recipee u whipping up? All grain?



Good deal on the head. I learned long ago the old school, pour down the side of the glass way. It took major relearning for me to pour aggressively down the middle, as is required of craft beers for good head.

No to all grain. With good Continental maris otter extract going for $20 for 6 pounds, I see no economic reason to go through all the equipment costs and time consumption of all-grain right now. Extract brewing lets me use all my wine equipment for double duty. All I added was an 8-gallon brew pot.

I've seen video and read about head to head taste tests of all-grain and extract MO recipes, and the testers could not tell a difference. As long as it sells this cheaply, I'll stay with extract.


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## roger80465

I'm just dipping my toes into brewing again. It has been over 20 years since my last venture. Back then, I was trying to make 'Pliney the Elder' out of a canned kit, sugar and water and you can imagine my disappointment. I'm a little smarter this time, I hope.

Just started a Fat Tire clone from my LHBS. I didn't realize until I got the kit home that it was a mini mash kit. It is the first mash I have ever done and it is really a PITA. I will also stick with extract kits until someone can prove mashing is worth the effort. I agree, Jim, putting my equipment to double use is an incentive. Besides, sitting on the back porch with one of my big reds is not as satisfying as it is with a cold brew.


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## wineinmd

Mini mash can be good if you want to use grains that need to be converted but don't have extracts available (biscuit, victory, flaked barley, etc) .


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## jamesjr

Yea im completely satisfied with my extract kit or was it a partial mash because I had grain in a bag? Anyways 30 bucks and I have 50 beers im proud to share and say ive made cant beat that in my Opinion


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