# $5.00 Apple Press



## Old Philosopher (Nov 9, 2010)

Inspired by Luc's Bucket Press, and a BFO (Blinding Flash of the Obvious), I solved my problem of pressing apples this year.
I got two buckets (3 gal and 5 gal) from my local bakery for $5 total. I made the little one into the strainer, and the rest of the mess was scrapped together. The 1x4 boards are oak...probably a better choice than pine. 
Anyway, if anyone else here is into innovation to overcome obstacles, here's the result.


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## Runningwolf (Nov 9, 2010)

Op I like your set up but doesn't the jack pop the top 2x4 off your set up?


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## Wade E (Nov 9, 2010)

I would prefer seeing 2 - 2x4's on edge before that pce of lumber snaps and takes you head off!


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## Old Philosopher (Nov 9, 2010)

Looks a little dicey, don't it? Let me explain.
If I was any more lazy, they could paint me, and make me a park bench.
The wooden frame you see is the packing frame that my wood stove came on. It's made out of oak. I reinforced the 6 twisty-nails holding the 1x4 on the top with four 3 1/2" framing Torx screws. The frame was just the right size for my bucket set up. So....I managed to get 3/4 gallon more juice out of the apples I had hung to drain, and hand-squeezed. That's a 2-ton bottle jack, and I figure it only took about 400-500 pounds of pressure. I guessing at that pressure, because my son and I (total 350 pounds) didn't do as good a job with our full weights. (Don't try to visualize this! )

It's a prototype. I know now it works well. The next modification will be to replace the 1x4 uprights and top piece with 4x4 lumber, and run reinforcing metal straps across the joints.

The whole key to pressing is to apply a little pressure, let it drain, apply more pressure, let it drain again. It did a really good job. My chickens didn't know what to make of the "apple pancake" they got after the juice was out.


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## Wade E (Nov 9, 2010)

2 - 2x4 on edge would actually be stronger then a 4x4. If there is any flaw in one board the other will carry it unlike 1 single board. Glue and bolt the 2 boards together and youll never have to worry about it gain.


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## Runningwolf (Nov 9, 2010)

Yep i agree with Wade as this is the way they build headers above doors and windows.


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## Craig (Nov 9, 2010)

Or even use 2 2X6's or 2X8's?


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## Old Philosopher (Nov 9, 2010)

It would be interesting to see the comparison in tensile strength between laminated 2x4s and a pressure treated 4x4. I'll probably go with the 2x4 scraps, and save the good 4x4s for a more serious project.
Headers are built that way to keep window and door framing from sagging. This application is getting tremendous pressure upward. The joints are more vulnerable than the wood.
Hell, if my kid takes metal shop again next year, I'll just have him weld a frame!


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## winemaker_3352 (Nov 9, 2010)

I agree as well - 2 are better than 1 

As Dan mentioned they do this for headers, window, and door jams (i think) for reinforcement.


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## JohnT (Nov 10, 2010)

Old Philosopher said:


> It would be interesting to see the comparison in tensile strength between laminated 2x4s and a pressure treated 4x4. I'll probably go with the 2x4 scraps, and save the good 4x4s for a more serious project.
> Headers are built that way to keep window and door framing from sagging. This application is getting tremendous pressure upward. The joints are more vulnerable than the wood.
> Hell, if my kid takes metal shop again next year, I'll just have him weld a frame!



Never use pressure treated wood. It contains arsnic. You should not even be working with it without a face mask!


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## JohnT (Nov 10, 2010)

winemaker_3352 said:


> I agree as well - 2 are better than 1
> 
> As Dan mentioned they do this for headers, window, and door jams (i think) for reinforcement.



I would also use good, thick bolts to hold it together.


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## winemaker_3352 (Nov 10, 2010)

JohnT said:


> I would also use good, thick bolts to hold it together.



Yeah - you can go to HD or Lowe's and get some anchor bolts or deck bolts.


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## Old Philosopher (Nov 10, 2010)

JohnT said:


> Never use pressure treated wood. It contains arsnic. You should not even be working with it without a face mask!



Common misconception. Just to set the record straight:



> Genuine Wolmanized® Residential Outdoor® Wood is protected by copper azole preservative, and is treated for above-ground and ground-contact use. The variety with built-in water repellent has earned the Good Housekeeping Seal.
> 
> In laboratory tests, in garden and vegetable studies, in investigations of playground structures, in surveys of carpenters and treating plant workers, and in other research conducted by various organizations, CCA-treated wood has been shown to be harmless when used as recommended.
> EPA conducted an 8-year examination and determined that benefits outweighed risks. The agency recommended only modest precautions, nearly all of which also apply to untreated wood. (See the Consumer Information Sheet.)
> Wolmanized wood has been used for decades for tomato stakes, grape stakes, mushroom trays, planter boxes, and bird houses with no known adverse effects. It is used in national parks, botanical gardens, and wildlife sanctuaries.



The industry stopped using arsenic around 2003.



> Wood industrially pressure-treated with approved preservative products pose a limited risk to the public, but should be disposed of properly. On December 31, 2003, the US wood treatment industry stopped treating residential lumber with arsenic and chromium (chromated copper arsenate, or CCA). This was a voluntary agreement with the United States Environmental Protection Agency. CCA


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## Old Philosopher (Nov 10, 2010)

JohnT said:


> I would also use good, thick bolts to hold it together.





winemaker_3352 said:


> Yeah - you can go to HD or Lowe's and get some anchor bolts or deck bolts.



When I build a deck a couple years ago, I used the old fashioned method of counter sinking lag screws (4" x 3/8") and cinching them up with a socket ratchet. What a PITA! Two holes to drill, washer, and tightening them. 
My last construction project I found the SPAX Torx head screw that was 4 1/2" long and has the sheer strength of a 5/8" bolt! They have a flange around the head that keeps them from sinking into the wood. They are self-drilling. What a joy to use! I would really recommend them!


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## Runningwolf (Nov 10, 2010)

OP I was just going to mention the same thing when I read about the arsnic in pressure treated. 

You do have to watch the screws you use in the new lumber though as the stuff they use now in pressure treated will eat the old screws away. Just ask at the big box stores and they'll guide you in the right direction.


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## JohnT (Nov 10, 2010)

OK, If you can be certain that your PT wood was not manufactured prior to 2003, it (most likely) will not contain arsenic. However, the modern preservatives are still not recomended for direct contact with food. See below.




From: thenaturalhandyman.com



> •Do not use pressure-treated wood for making cutting boards, or for any food preparation surface.
> Picnic tables made of pressure-treated wood have become common, and are fine to use for the purpose they were intended... to serve food on (or play cards on), *not to prepare food on*! They should be coated as needed with an oil-based wood preservative (not paint or opaque stain) to seal in the chemical preservative.



From: URI.EDU



> Although studies have indicated CCA-treated wood is safe for direct contact with food, the *Food and Drug Administration has not approved* its use for structures or containers such as beehives, feed bins or silos, where the feed or *food would come into direct contact with the wood*.



From Wikipedia:


> Wood treated with modern preservatives is generally safe to handle given appropriate handling precautions and personal protection measures. However, treated wood may present certain hazards in some circumstances such as during combustion or where loose wood dust particles or other fine toxic residues are generated *or where treated wood comes into direct contact with food *and agriculture.


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## Runningwolf (Nov 10, 2010)

Hey John, I wouldn't even have it used for anything in my house including the basement. And no throwing it in the fire if cooking wieners or marshmallows.


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## JohnT (Nov 10, 2010)

yup. The stuff is still bad news for food handling.


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## Old Philosopher (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I'm going to avoid it for the apple press frame, just because if it got wet, the "runoff" might contaminate something. Better safe, than sorry.

I hadn't seen this one before! LOL! 
Since I have an over abundance of lodgepole pine around here, this gives me an idea! (I think mine looks simpler...)


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## malweth (Nov 11, 2010)

JohnT said:


> From: URI.EDU



Nice! I don't see my school quoted often


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