# First time Making Merlot



## PCharles (Aug 30, 2011)

Hey friends, 

I have a target date of September 10th to get 18 gallons of crushed and destemmed merlot grapes. I was looking through the August-September issue of WineMaker Magazine where I've found a recipie for Merlot. I thought I'd use this as a starting point for me first none kit wine from grape experience. 

I appreciate any suggestions/tips and questions related to the process. For sure I'll have lots of questions of my own. 

Questions

Question 1 - The procedure gives instructions for making 10% K-meta (10 grams of K-meta disolved in 50 ml of D-H20, then QS to 100 ml with D-H20) D-H20 being distilled water and QS meaning bringing the total volume to 100 ml. The recipie is a 5 gallon recipie. It calls for me to add 15 ml of 10% K-meta. I figure if I multiply the ingredients by 3.6 I'll have adjusted for the larger volume. Therefore, I'd be adding 69 ml of 10% K-Meta. Does that sound correct?

Question 2 - The preocedure recommends 5 g Lallemand BDX yest EC-118. Are there any other suggestions for a choice of yeast? I plan to purchase fresh yeast from an area Beer and Wine shop. 

Question 3 - Inert Gas - The gas issue may be my largest divergence from the procedure. I've never used gas ie N2, CO2, or Ar. How essential is it that I use gas over the must during the early fermentation?

Question 4 - Malolactic Fermentation - I've asked my wine kit supplyer about Malolactic fermentation before. I'm not certain if they carry a good line for this step. Any suggestions for item/suppliers would be appreciated. 

Question 5 - The procedure calls for use of several products. They all center around yeast nutrient and yeast energizing. Specifically I mean, DAT or Di-ammonium Phospate (a source of nitrogen), Go-Ferm, and Fermaid. I alrady have yeast nutrient and energizer. Are the products I mentioned critical or could I substitute my generic energizer and starter?

Thanks for your feedback, advise, and questions. 

Happy fermenting, 

Paul


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## ibglowin (Aug 30, 2011)

Hey Paul,

I'll give this a crack and add my $0.02 here.

First off they claim 125lbs will yield only 5G finished wine. That seems very low. My Merlot from last year yielded 6G from only 100lbs of fruit without pressing very hard at all. I think 125lb should get you closer 7G's of wine even after tossing the gross lees. Just beware you could end up with more volume here than expected.

*Question 1* - SO2 Addition: 0.33 grams per gallon results in 50ppm. For 18 gallons of must you would need 5.94 grams of powdered meta-bisulfite. To use: Dilute the sulfite powder in water or juice until the crystals are completely dissolved and thoroughly mix into the must.

*Question 2* - EC1118 is what they add in kits. Its the Terminator of yeast and will ferment to dry without fail. It is not necessarily the best yeast at producing the best flavors in wine. Try looking at this Lallemand Yeast Chart. I would recommend BDX, or D254, D21 or even RC212 perhaps.

*Question 3* - Inert gas is very nice to have to backfill a headspace in a carboy or primary during a cold maceration but its not a MUST have. Use of the right sized carboys to ensure you have as little head space as possible will get you the same results. 

*Question 4* Malolactic Fermentation usually a given with red wines BUT, not always necessary if you have wines with little or no Malic Acid in them. You will have to accurately test the juice up front to get a good pH and TA reading. If your juice is way low on acid , use tartaric to bump it up. If the TA is acceptable to begin with then you should do an MLF after you transfer to secondary. You can pick up the MLB at your LHBS usually. Fine Vine Wines (one of the supporters of this site stocks several types).

*Question 5* - The use of these specialty yeast additives is highly recommended. They help to rehydrate your yeast and get them prepared to do their job right off the bat as well as keep them going when they start to peter out with extra nutrients they need to keep fermenting away. I would get a supply of Go-Ferm, Fermaid K and DAP. All will be required at some point during the process.

*One Last Thing* - While its not listed in the Ingredients and I can't really understand why, I would highly recommend using something like Opti-Red or even pectic enzyme to help break down the grape skins and extract the tannin and lock in your color profile for the wine.

One of the best all around red wine manuals is this one. Print it out and use it! I would highly recommend to find out before hand what is the normal juice chemistry for the grapes coming out of your area. High heat can cause problems with both pH and TA making the addition of Tartaric acid a must for a decent tasting wine. You will for sure need a good pH meter and TA test kit for this endeavor.

Good luck and keep us posted!


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## robie (Aug 30, 2011)

PCharles said:


> Hey friends,
> 
> I have a target date of September 10th to get 18 gallons of crushed and destemmed merlot grapes. I was looking through the August-September issue of WineMaker Magazine where I've found a recipie for Merlot. I thought I'd use this as a starting point for me first none kit wine from grape experience.
> 
> ...



#1 Follow directins as given you as long as the grapes have not already been given a dose of Kmeta at the vineyard after being picked.

#2 Ec-1118 is a neutral profile yeast that is sort of the Mack Truck of yeasts; it doesn't get stuck easily. It won't in any way enhance your wine, but it won't hurt it, either; but it will ferment it to dry at higher temperatures. Go to Lallymand's site and look at other yeasts good for Merlot. There are yeasts that will do a better job bringing out the fruit or maybe mouth feel, all depending on what you like. if you want to be safe, use EC-1118.

#3 You don't have to use gas, just protect the wine and keep it topped off, like you would if it were a kit wine.

#4 MLF is something you likely will want to do on fresh grape Merlot. You will need to read up on it and purchase the necessary starter bacteria and make sure you don't add Kmeta or sorbate after secondary fermentation and before MLF. You can order bacteria from George at The Wine Maker's Toy Store and have it in three days. 

#5 You should do a yeast starter and add something like Go Ferm or equivalent. You will also need to feed the yeast with something like Fermaid K or equivalent after the wine has been fermenting a few days. Just follow the nutrient's directions Feeding absolutely is critical. Again, you don't have to use a specific product by name.


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## PCharles (Aug 30, 2011)

*Great Suggestions*

Thanks for the great advice... I've been checking out yeast pairings at the Lallemand sight. I'm planing to stop by my local wine/beer store to see if I can get some of the items. I already have yeast nutrient and energizer. They are generic. 

I didn't mention Pectic Enzyme, but expect to get some to add before pressing. 

Thanks guys,

I'll continue to post qestions on my progress here as the I move through the process. 

Paul


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## robie (Aug 30, 2011)

Just make sure you remember that the yeast energizer and especially nutrient are very, very important for your wine to finish properly. Even if it seems the yeast are doing great without it, don't make the same mistake I once made and omit them. In my case I omitted the nutrient.


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## djrockinsteve (Aug 30, 2011)

Ok here's my 2 cents worth. 

I would recommend adding pectic enzyme before adding yeast. Give it at least 12 hours before yeast addition. I add 21 drops per 6 gallons. 

I use RC 212 by lalvin and ferment cool. 60's
I have always used this and had no problem. Definitely add yeast nutrient and even superferment once must reaches 1.000 if you are unsure of it ferm. dry but I have always had great success. 

I do not use any additional gas when I rack. Just top off after degassing. 

A word of caution with Argon. If you breath in you run a high rish of suffocating. Argon being heavier than oxygen will go to the bottom of your lungs and will not leave when you exhale. Just FYI

I have back sweetened to .994 thru .996 and if done well will last 6-7 plus years in the bottle and be great. This year I will bulk age a merlot 2 years. It's one of my wife's favorites.


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## PCharles (Sep 1, 2011)

*Yeast Selection and Malolactic Culture*

I've settled on RC 212. I visited my local winemaking supply shop and checked the Toy Store and niether of them carry a wide selection of yeast. RC 212 should do fine. I now appreciate better, that some yeasts require more nutrient/energizer then others and that the energy factor in nutrients is nitrogen. I understand that RC 212 is more demanding of nutrient/energizer. I did find a quote that DAT is junk food for yeast. I have fermax and DAT. I figure I'll blend several nutrient/energizer products. Hey, who doesn't like a twinky now and then.

I've started looking more into Malolactic Culture. I find they too have energy demands. I'm not certain yet what nutrient product to use for them yet. I'm also not settled on which Malolactic product to use. My local dealer can order the White Labs Liquid Yeast. The Toy Store offers that and Lalvin Dried Malolactic Culture. The While Labs product is a special order from my local dealer, not a stock item. Any preferences between these two products?

Have a great day friends,
Paul


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## ibglowin (Sep 1, 2011)

I used RC212 last year on my Cab Sauv and Merlot. They are turning out very nice. I plan on trying some different yeast this year just for the fun of it.


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## robie (Sep 1, 2011)

Hey Paul,

Just a thought for future fresh grape wine making -
Each yeast strain has its own special characteristics and benefits.
If ever you should not be able to decide between two different yeasts, ferment two batches, each with its own yeast. Sometime after fermentation, blend them together. You can just dump them willy-nilly all into the same container or do a selective blend. That way you can get the benefits of each and truly make a unique wine.

This time around, though, I would use just the one yeast and learn the process well... for next time.

Good luck!


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## PCharles (Sep 1, 2011)

*Using Different Yeasts*

Robie, 

That does sound like a great idea. This being my first shot with wine from grapes at three times the volume of my usual processing, from 6 to 18 gallons, I am experiencing the growing pains. I've now obtained a new fermenter, but with it, come the difficulties of moving/lifting it. I've decided that I need to break my transport containers of crushed/destemmed merlot mush in 3-4 six gallon containers. Punch down was never a problem with my spoon, but now I need a new device. I'm thinking I can make one out of a wooden pole with some sort of end on it (also considering PVC with sealed ends). Lack of a press is also a prediciment. I've been dwelling on a lever arm press. I figure I could make it for about 50 bucks and it would fit my pressing needs for for several years. I have to get a pH meter. Suggestions on on a good inexpensive model are appreciated. I figure I'll just take my time as I learn, getting new equipment as I grow as a wine maker. Good things come to those who wait, right? 

Thanks for all the good suggestions. 

Paul


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## robie (Sep 1, 2011)

Yep, having a press is an issue. As you wrote, you can make one out of the buckets, and it will work for the first time, but eventually, if you continue to make fresh grapes, you will need a small press.

Breaking it down to multiple containers makes lots of sense. That is a lot of wine!

The Wine Maker's Toy Store sell a very nice reliable PH meter for about $100. That is expensive but you really have to have one. It will also make it much easier to test for total acid. Give George a call at his store and he can fill you in.


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## ibglowin (Sep 1, 2011)

Paul,

Here is a great Punch Down Tool for the amateur home winemaker. I use mine even on kits with grape packs its so good at its job.

This is the pH Meter most of us are using these days. it comes with all necessary buffers as well as storage solution.

Don't forget to get a TA kit as well. You will use the pH meter to detect endpoint.

Cheers!


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## PCharles (Sep 2, 2011)

*pH and Punch Down*

Robie and Mike,

Thanks for the great suggestions. Both ouf you recommended a good pH meter... water proof seems the way to go. The punch down dool looks like a winner also. I've already been using a TA test kit. I've dallied on the pH meter though, but I recognize its importance. 

I really appreciate these suggestions. 

Do you have any preferance of malolactic culture? Lavin or White? This will be a first time for me. 

Later friends,
Paul


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## ibglowin (Sep 2, 2011)

I didn't do MLF on my Cab Sauv and Merlot from last year as the grapes from Deming are low in Acid because of the hot growing conditions. I had to bump up the acid with tartaric. So I don't have any data points to share there. 

The main thing on MLB is to make sure you get enough culture to treat the amount of wine you have, thats important. The other thing is to make sure you get a culture than can tolerate the % alcohol in your wine, some MLB cultures cant handle 15% ABV wine. 

Also you need to make sure your SO2 levels are within the specified range. Some MLB can tolerate up to 50ppm others can't go much over 25ppm. Lastly make sure your temps are in the proper range. MLB can be finicky and can require a stable temp between a narrow range 65-70 degrees.


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## MidlandWG (Sep 2, 2011)

All the advice given here is excellent, not much to add, but I'll give you a funny story about my first wine from grapes, like you it was a Merlot. So because I'm a head first kind of guy I decide if I'm going to make wine I'm going to buy 500lbs because theres not point in make two cases of wine. There were, at the time, no online forums, no online manuals, just books from the local library and the LHBS guy. I forgo the books and talk to the guy who says ahhh don't worry about it when the grapes come I'll set you up with all the stuff you need, so2, yeast, mlf etc. So I get a BIN of Merlot and i bring two 30 gal. fermenters, he crushes and pours the must into the bins, which are now 7/8 full, i put the lid on and lock the top, get my supplies and leave. No clue what I'm doing, throw in the yeast and SO2 at the same time, punch it down and put the lid on loose. Next morning come downstairs and see the cap is up, punch it down, excited that its working and off to work. Come home to about 5 gallons of wine all over my basement floor, lid is 8" above the top of my fermenter with grapes pushed up below it! Needless to say I'm freaking out, clean it up, punch down the cap, move some must around. This goes on for 5 more days, could never get it right by which time my house if FULL of fruit flies (never ferment in basement), and the house smells of wine. Wife wasn't too happy. Finally one day I run downstairs and the cap is gone, totally submerged under wine, call the LHBS, again freaking out, and he starts laughing and tells me its time to press. PRESS? What the hell is a press?! So that night I get a spaghetti strainer and a 5 gallon bucket... 8 hours later... ended up with 7 carboys, and tons of gross lees in the vino. Now I add MLF, fermentation is brisk, blows the tops of the carboys, wine all over the place again. Racked it and let it sit for 3 months. Tasted it and it was FANTASTIC!

Point of the story, good grapes are forgiving, and anyone can make wine! Your 10 steps ahead of where I was my first time, don't get to bent out of shape about the details, it will turn out fine even if you miss a step or two.


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## PCharles (Sep 3, 2011)

*I appreciate your story*

Hi John,

Wow, you started with 500 lb... Oh man, you had to press all that without a press? I'll bet you have one now hahaha. I appreciate your advise and the amusing story. I've gotten some good advise from my thread, and look foward to covering the process. I hope to have the grapes on September 10, but all the rain we are getting may delay the harvest. Being patient comes with the turf when it comes to winemaking, right?

Thanks again for your comments. Keepum coming as I move through the process. 

Paul


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## MidlandWG (Sep 3, 2011)

again, head first kind of guy... I now have 3 presses! If one is good, three are better hahaha


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## PCharles (Sep 17, 2011)

*Fresh Grape Crush soon*

Greetings friends, 

Here is an update on my NC grapes. The vineyard that is helping me out fell short on their merlot so I'll be using a different variety. I've been given the choice of Cab Franc or Cab Sauv... I believe I'll go with the Cab Sauv. If weather holds up, the grapes will be picked and crushed next weekend!!! I'll be able to benifit from the initial chemistry readings from the vineyard for TA, pH, and Brix. I'm still without a press and pH meter... I hope to get the pH meter soon. I'm still holding off of the press. I may wing it with a home made job until next season. So it goes with a tight budget. 

I've downloaded the Red Wine Guide from More Flavor. It certainly is a good reference. I didn't realize there were nutrients for MLF bacteria. Despite the change in grape variety, I'm still going to use the same yeast, RC 212. 

It's 1:46 AM here... just home from work. I just racked my jalapeno mint wine. I snuck a taste... wow... it has some fire. The mint is also noticeable. I topped off with some white wine. This looks to be a nice sipper. In the morning I am going to visit a friend who operates a local vineyard/winery. He's invited me to assist his first wine press of the season. The Cab Fanc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, are ready to be pressed. Like my signature says, "Will Work For Wine". I'd better get some shut eye. Look for some pics on a new thread later Saturday or Sunday. 

Later friends,

Paul


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## PCharles (Sep 25, 2011)

*Udate*

Ok, 

My source didn't have enough Merlot, but I was able to get just over 12 gallons of Cab sauv. The grapes were picked yesterday. The initial SG was a bit low with all the rain we've had, coming in at 22. I've bumped it up to 24.5. I'm relaxed about the TA/pH issue. I plan to get a pH meter later this week. Grapes from this field usually come in at a pH of 4.0. I've added .5 tsp/gal tataric for now and will adjust as time goes by. I'm using RC-212, which I added this morning. Thanks Mike for pointing out that MLF and fermentation both raise the pH. 

This being my first go at red wine from grapes, I started 5 gallons of scuppernong Monday, I'm rather excited and happy to have the process under way. Next year I expect to be better prepared with equipment. 

Special thanks to my vineyard and forum friends for their assitance and guidance.

Have a wonderful day!

Paul


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## ibglowin (Sep 25, 2011)

Both Fermentation and MLF will RAISE pH, not lower it.


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## PCharles (Sep 25, 2011)

*Your Right*



ibglowin said:


> Both Fermentation and MLF will RAISE pH, not lower it.



Mike, Your correct. I miss read in the More WineRed Red Wine Making Guide (section 2.3 B). They said you can reduce the TA by MLF, not reduce pH.

Thanks for the clearification!

Paul


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## PCharles (Sep 25, 2011)

*Cab sav day 2*

I've got a few pics to share. 

When I did my afternoon punch down, with my home made punch down tool, I noticed the cap has really firmed up. In addition, I the must temperature is 73 degrees F. The juice is a deep lovely purple.


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## Rock (Sep 25, 2011)

PCharles said:


> Mike, Your correct. I miss read in the More WineRed Red Wine Making Guide (section 2.3 B). They said you can reduce the TA by MLF, not reduce pH.
> 
> Thanks for the clearification!
> 
> Paul



When ph goes up ta goes down!


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## Vinovintner (Sep 26, 2011)

The type of press you get is dependent on the quantity of grapes that you want to process. For small quantities, a 30 liter ratchet press will suffice. They run around $375. If you are handy with woodworking, you can make one using a hydraulic lift. For maximum efficiency, and larger quantities, I would suggest a Bladder Press, which hooks up to your garden hose. Very efficient and fast.


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## PCharles (Oct 14, 2011)

PCharles said:


> Ok,
> 
> My source didn't have enough Merlot, but I was able to get just over 12 gallons of Cab sauv. The grapes were picked yesterday. The initial SG was a bit low with all the rain we've had, coming in at 22. I've bumped it up to 24.5. I'm relaxed about the TA/pH issue. I plan to get a pH meter later this week. Grapes from this field usually come in at a pH of 4.0. I've added .5 tsp/gal tataric for now and will adjust as time goes by. I'm using RC-212, which I added this morning. Thanks Mike for pointing out that MLF and fermentation both raise the pH.
> 
> ...



Hi all, I just got my new pH meter in today. I'd like to update my Cab Sauv status. I started my 12 gallons of Cab Sauv back on the 24th of Sept when the grapes were harvested/crushed/in the primary. I fermented for 8 days until the SG was 1.000. I added White Labs ML bacteria into primary on day 7. I pressed the wine using colanders on day 8. Pressing went better than expected. Not having a real press was not a problem. I filled 1 six gallon and 1 3 gallon carboys. The next day, I racked off the gross lees. This left me with 1 six gallon carboy, 2 1 gallon jugs, and a .75 gallon jug. All have been kept under air lock. I believe MLF is moving along. I've noted small bubbles around the top of the wine. 

I just tested the pH and I found it was 3.64. I was pleased to see it at this level as the starting pH was between 3.8 and 4.0. I've not got a current TA value. In another 3-4 weeks I'll be sending a sample off to the local university for a full profile. 

I have two other wines going. I tested ther pH also. Here are the results.

Jalapeno Mint (Fire and Ice) 3.51
Scuppernog - 3.1

The Scuppernog was lower than I would have desired. The flavor isn't too sharp and the taste has mellowed somewhat over the past week. 

I need to get a new TA kit. In addition to checking TA, are there any suggestions/comments. 

I'm glad to finally have a descent pH meter. I'll not be flying in the dark on that perameter any longer. 

Thanks,

Paul


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## ibglowin (Oct 14, 2011)

Nicely done Paul!


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## robie (Oct 14, 2011)

Good deal, Paul. You are getting that experience factor for sure.


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