# how to use a hydrometer for newbies



## jdrum

ok i want to start a thread on how to use and under stand a hydrometer.
as a relitive newbie, i look at the problem with a different perspective than the more experienced, when i got my first hydrometer, i didn't know crap about it
so i read the directions, and tutoriels, some were good and some were confusing

so this will be a work in process, and i welcome ANY constructive critisim to improve the topic.


this is a start, looking at the sg scale. i plan to do another pic relating the other scales as i have time


update 

jim


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## Runningwolf

Jim, that was an awesome pictorial. Thank you for the information.


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## Angelina

Thanks Jim, for confirming that I was doing it right, sometimes I wondered since I am really a hands on kind of gal. A picture is worth a 1000 words to me.


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## cpfan

Great picture and labels Jim. Don't know why this hasn't been done before. I'm pleased to see the spec gravities quoted as 3 decimals even though they end in a zero. Maybe next you can do a picture showing a reading that doesn't end in zero, eg 0.992.

My only comment is that some kits may finish about 1.000 (Cellar Craft Winery Series did this when first introduced), and others about .995 (many RJ Spagnols kits).

Steve


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## Larryh86GT

You could add labels for the startiing SG readings also. ie: 1.085 normal, 1.110 hot, 1.115 tasty.


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## Wade E

(Cellar Craft Winery Series did this when first introduced) said:


> Did you mean Showcase series or did Cellar Craft have a Winery series?
> 
> This is another great resource for reading a hydrometer.
> http://www.lumcon.edu/education/studentdatabase/hydrometer.asp


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## rhoffart

good job Jim 


I had a few stop at .996 FYI


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## Wade E

Most stop around .996


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## jdrum

thanks for the thums up everyone. like isaid this is a work in progress so i will take your coments and add to what i build in the future if you don't mind. as i add material i plan to edit and add it to the original post.
i am not happy with the pic and plan to do a better one.

jim


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## Sammyk

Actually, the photo is good. I wished something like this was available when I first started. I have since figured out how they work. I am sure it will help many though.


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## Wade E

I stuck the thread for you.


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## jdrum

THANKS WADE, that made a great day perfict.

jim


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## Wade E

Can you make that pic a lot taller so the font is readable? Wider would be no good.


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## cpfan

Wade E said:


> Did you mean Showcase series or did Cellar Craft have a Winery series?


Yeah, I meant Cellar Classic. Wish these 2 names weren't so close.

Steve


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## PCharles

Nicely done Jim!

Yesterday I started my Cranberry Wine. I'll be adding yeast later today. The my starting SG is 1.095. I hope you don't mind my contribution to your already excellent thread.


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## jdrum

thanks pcharles thats the kind of show and tell that makes things eazyer for newbies to understand.


jim


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## Giovannino

Thanks Jim - that labelling took a LOT of work.

My only problem is that I cannot read the notes. Perhaps you can host a LARGER readable version (I might be asking for too much if you have a limited connection) on the net somewhere like photobucket.

Again thanks - pictures like this help a LOT.


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## jdrum

ok lets try this
View attachment 3232

thats better, after 4 trys starting from scratch, each time!
i am going to post this pic in the original post to keep the updates together at the begining.

jim


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## Giovannino

Thank you for your troubles.
I was able to read everything and perhaps even the last number should be 1.12 instead of 1.112 although I don't think that would make a difference.
At least now I know how to read a hydrometer


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## Wade E

Yep, 1.120 not 1.112


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## jdrum

yep i agree, must have been closer to the bottom of that glass of liquid apple pie than i thought.
if i could figure out how to delete edit images i will replace with a corrected image 

jim


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## Micah

Great tutorial on how to read the hydrometer.

If possible I would expand a bit on it and talk about what the hydrometer is measuring, why it's important and how to calculate final alcohol content from the numbers that have been collected during the process.

From my own anecdotal experience, those were the items missing that kept me from really utilizing this important tool. I would take a measurement and go, "Great. The SG is 1.028. I have no idea what that means or why it's important but it's definitely 1.028 and the instructions with my kit say it should be below 1.1 so I'll go ahead and move on."

I'm know I still don't utilize everything the hydrometer tells me but even a rudimentary explanation on the What and Why would be a huge help along with the How when it comes to the hydrometer.


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## jdrum

hear is the next bit to add, thanks to micha for pointing me in this direction,.

HERE IS THE DIRECTIONS THAT CAME WITH MY HYDROMETER

TRIPLE SCALE BEER AND WINE HYDROMETER, 60 DEGREE F

RANGES SPECIFIC GRAVITY 0.990 TO 1.170
BALLING OR BRIX 0 TO 38% SUGAR BY WEIGHT
POTENTIAL ALCOHOL BY VOLUME 0 TO 20%

A hydrometer measures the weight of a liquid in relation to water, the weight of water on a SPECIFIC GRAVITY scale is expressed as 1.000.
As you add sugar or other soluble solids, the numbers will increase, i.e. 1.010 to 1.020 up to 1.100 and more.
1 cup sugar raises 1 gallon's s.g. by .020 = 1cup raises s.g. from 1.050 to 1.070
5 cups raises 5 gallons' s.g. by .020 = 5 cups raises.g. from 1.040 to1.060

The BALLING or BRIX scale tells you the percentage of sugar by weight.
1 cup sugar raises 5 gallons liquid aproximately 1 degree Brix

The ALCOHOL scale is actually the potential alcohol.
( Just reading the scale will tell you about how much alcohol you can expect from a batch of wine if the must ferments to dry or below 0%. this gives you a ballpark figure to work with. there are to many varables to predict just the exzact amount of alcohol a batch of must will produce, but if everything goes right, it should be close

In order to determine the alcohol content in wine, you need to take two readings.
the first reading is taken before fermentation (before you pitch the yeast).
the second reading is taken after all fermentation has stopped.
Subtract the second reading from the first reading and the result is the potential alcohol 

FOR EXAMPLE 
1ST READING 12% ( = 1.090 SG)
2ND READING 0% ( = 1.000 SG)
____________________
POTENTIAL ABV 12%

OR

1ST READING 13% (=1.098 SG)
2ND READING 1% (=1.008 SG)
POTENTIAL ABV 12%


TO USE YOUR HYDROMETER:
Put a sample of your must or wine in a hydrometer jar, (or any slim vessel as deep as the hydrometer is tall, and you can see through, many of us just float it in the primary fermenter bucket. i started out using the plastic tube the hydrometer came in.)
then give the hydrometer a spin to dislodge any bubbles .
Then at eye level read the numbers where the liquid cross the stem of the hydrometer.
this figure will tell you how much sugar is in your must and the potential abv.
with these figures you can adjust the sugar according to the style wine you wish to produce.

( YOU WILL ADD SUGAR OR HONEY TO RAISE THE THE POTENTIAL ABV . )

TEMERATURE CORRECTIONS:
This hydrometer gives accurate readings when the temp of the liquid is at 60 degrees.
The following tables show how to correct for temp variations,

TEMP. DEGREES F. SPEC. GRAV. CORRECTION
50............................... SUBTRACT 1/2 EXAMPLE
60.................................................... 0 TEMP OF MUST IS 84
70.............................. ADD............ 1 SP GRAV. IS 1.100
77.............................. ADD ........... 2 CORRECTION FIG IS... .003
84.............................. ADD............ 3 CORRECTED SG IS.... 1.103
95.............................. ADD............ 5 

THE ABOVE TABLES ARE NOT REALLY NESSESARY AS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE FINAL RESULTS DOSE NOT AMOUNT TO MUCH. 


( THESE NOTES ARE A C/P FROM ANOTHER POST ON ANOTHER FORUM)

These are notes I've written in the back of my Wine Log Book over the years. They're not all exact, but close enough for my use in winemaking. I've gathered them here and there and thought I'd share them. Maybe they'll help someone figure out a batch of wine. Be sure and double check before taking my word for it, in case I'm wrong or make a typing mistake. I know for many of you this will be stuff you already know, but it helped me to have it written in the back of my book. Hope it helps someone else!

SUGAR NOTES

2 oz. (4 TBSP) sugar raises 1 gallon's s.g. by .005
1 cup sugar raises 1 gallon's s.g. by .020
5 cups raises 5 gallons' s.g. by .020
4# sugar = 9.44 cups
1# sugar = 2.36 cups
5# sugar = 11.8 cups
10# sugar = 23.6 cups
1# sugar in 5 gallons liquid will raise Potential Alcohol 1%


Sweetness:
1# sugar = 3 cups corn sugar
4# sugar = 5# honey
3# sugar = 5# raisins
1# sugar = 20 oz. grape concentrate

Using BRIX, % Sugar:
1 cup sugar raises 5 gallons liquid aproximately 1 degree Brix

jim


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## Wade E

To edit stuff like that you have to click edit then select Go Advanced and near the bottom there will be manage attachments.


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## jdrum

thanks again wade, it's funny how somethings can be right in front of you and you don't see them. I CAN'T SEE THE FOREST FOR THE TREES.

JIM


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## Micah

jdrum said:


> A whole lot of excellent info.



Good stuff Jim. Just along the lines of what I was thinking and then some.


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## jdrum

this is what i want to do, somebody give me the idea and i will try to dig up the info. this way i learn as i try to help others, and i don't mind being corrected if i get off line. because i'm just learning this stuff to.

jim


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## ev-c

do SG readings tend to go up or down during primary fermentation?


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## rhoffart

ev-c said:


> do SG readings tend to go up or down during primary fermentation?



Down, as the sugar is converted to alcohol the Specific Gravity will drop.


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## ev-c

Oops, didn't see that there were extra pages I could have read after the first one...still figuring this site out. Makes sense, thank you!


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## soatman

*Help with a hydrometer*

Hello,
This may be a little confusing, and thanks if anyone can help.

I am making a mead have been for a few months now.

I have one hydrometer that I was using then it broke so I bought another different brand. But both did say they were for wine or beer. They both had the three scales SP PAV and Brix. But there scales were off from one another.(some may think the amount is not much but I am working toward getting a Permit for sale in the future so it is off). It was the Brix and PAV that were different.

I look around online for days and found so many different conversions to figure AV from specific gravity differences. There are a lot of tables online that you can put in your numbers and they give a AV so there has to be a conversion, what is the correct one? 

etc. 
SGO-SGF x 131 = AV%

% Alcohol = ((1.05 x (SGO – SGF)) / SGF) / 0.79


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## Kev

*Hydrometer accuracy*

Brand new to wine making. Concerned about some of the numbers I am getting.

Started with some big reds ( Luna Rossa by WE for example) with a starting SG of 1.095. That part seems OK. After the specified time in the primary and then the secondary the SG only get down to 1.00. Waited a few extra days, it does not budge, so I stabilize. I now have three reds that are in the .99 to 1.01 range. How will this impact the quality of the wine, and the alcohol level?

Will they be off dry and low alcohol? I do have another one that went to 0.96.

Not sure if this is stuck fermentation, or an inaccurate hydrometer. So I tried it in room temperature water ( tap and RO). It read 1.02. Should it not read 1.00?

Also my fermenting room in the basement may be a bit cold. 19-20C or 68F. Could that be an issue?


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## Kev

This is what I am brewing if that helps any.







Kev


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## jdrum

recheck your hydrometer and check the temp of your water, most hyd are calibrated at 60 degrees .
as for your fermenting temp 68 degrees should be fine for your white wines,
reds normaly work better a little higher, 75 degrees.

abv % should only vary a 1 % or thereabouts still high enough to keep well 

more important is the taste if it tastes good now it will only get better.
it looks like you do mostly kits so follow the directions but warm up your reds and you should finnish out under 1.000
jim


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## cpfan

Kev said:


> Brand new to wine making. Concerned about some of the numbers I am getting.
> 
> Started with some big reds ( Luna Rossa by WE for example) with a starting SG of 1.095. That part seems OK. After the specified time in the primary and then the secondary the SG only get down to 1.00. Waited a few extra days, it does not budge, so I stabilize. I now have three reds that are in the .99 to 1.01 range. How will this impact the quality of the wine, and the alcohol level?
> 
> Will they be off dry and low alcohol? I do have another one that went to 0.96.
> 
> Not sure if this is stuck fermentation, or an inaccurate hydrometer. So I tried it in room temperature water ( tap and RO). It read 1.02. Should it not read 1.00?
> 
> Also my fermenting room in the basement may be a bit cold. 19-20C or 68F. Could that be an issue?


Kev:

You need to start quoting your sg readings as 3 decimal places. Your hydrometer probably read 1.002 when you tested it. Your wines are probably .99? to 1.001. This is OK, depending on the wine. Adjusted for your hydrometer this is .99? to .999.

This is most important if you start calculating alcohol. (1.095 - 1.02) * 133 = 10%. This is wrong. (1.095 - 1.002) * 133 = 12.37%. This is better.

Steve


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## DeniseHogemann

*Thanks!*

Thanks for all the wonderful information. It sure helped verify alot of stuff that I wasn't too sure if I had right or not.


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## Kev

cpfan said:


> Kev:
> 
> You need to start quoting your sg readings as 3 decimal places. Your hydrometer probably read 1.002 when you tested it. Your wines are probably .99? to 1.001. This is OK, depending on the wine. Adjusted for your hydrometer this is .99? to .999.
> 
> This is most important if you start calculating alcohol. (1.095 - 1.02) * 133 = 10%. This is wrong. (1.095 - 1.002) * 133 = 12.37%. This is better.
> 
> Steve



Good point. I wish somebody made a hydrometer with bigger numbers on it. I have one of those triple scale types. I printed out this post, and will go practice with it, to get the hang of reading those three digits correctly.

Kev


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## cpfan

Kev said:


> Good point. I wish somebody made a hydrometer with bigger numbers on it. I have one of those triple scale types. I printed out this post, and will go practice with it, to get the hang of reading those three digits correctly.


Kev, I believe that the one pictured in the first post is an ALLA hydrometer. It has pretty much the biggest numbers. Usually, the problem (for this oldie) is seeing the ticks between the numbers.

Steve


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## jdrum

kev if you still have the paper that came with your hyd look there it should tell you what temp the hyd is calibrated at.

jim


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## bhmjones

can you guys confirm if it harms anything to simply leave the hydrometer and thermometer floating in the must during the entire primary fermentation period?


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## jdrum

just sanatize before you put it in and leave it till its right. you would run more risk taking them out a putting them back, waving them around in all this foul air is sure to contaminate somethin. 
no problem just leave them in,
have you been to the gold camp yet this year

jim


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## bhmjones

Vance??????????? Wow. We're practically next door neighbors....... and no, I haven't made it to the camp yet..... but certainly desire to soon as possible..... do you ever go there?


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## jdrum

i used to work that area about 18 yrs a go. ran a bank route and had 6hrs layover in the general atea so did a lot of digging and looking all over that area
wish my health and resorces would let me get back into prospecting. i know a lot more now than i did back then (RESEARCH)

jim


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## barryjo

Just a minor point. A hydrometer does NOT measure the weight of the fluid. It gives a reading of density as compared to water. 
Also, using water at the stated temperature (usually 60 degrees) is how you can check the calibration . Should register 1.000.


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## sully

my wine is at .986 fermented for 7 days why is reading so low seems to extreme of a reading


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## barryjo

sully said:


> my wine is at .986 fermented for 7 days why is reading so low seems to extreme of a reading


WOW!!! Is it possible you have a defective hydrometer??
If it is not drinkable, maybe you could run it in your car.


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## shanek17

so i have been using my hydrometer for months now and have been getting aquainted with it. And im finally getting around to asking this question. when using a hydrometer you want to take a sample at a temperature that is equal to your hydrometer calibaration. so im wondering if that means the environment needs to be the correct temperature or does the actualy wine liquid need to be correct. i have been using a thermometer to measure my room temp and taking SG samples based on my rooms temperature. Like rite now i have my air conditoner running in the wine room and getting it to my hydros calibration which is 68degrees. which is fine since thats a comfortable temp for me in the summer. But then i took a temperature of my wine sample and its warmer by alot. the room is at 65 and the wine is still warm at 75.7 degrees. 

I guess what i really need is a temperature conversion chart. but everytime i find one its for hydros calibrated at 60 degrees! does anyone have one for 68? it would be nice to write it down and have it on hand. my hydrometer came with some temp conversions but there pretty lame because they only give a couple examples.


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## cpfan

Shane...most hydrometers come with an instruction sheet. The conversion chart is usually on that piece of paper.

There are online calculators that do the calculation for you. I recall one that allows you to specify the calibration temp. Since I don't use them, I can't point you to one.

If worst comes to worst, buy another hydrometer the same as what you have. A spare hydrometer is always a good thing.

Steve


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## shanek17

cpfan said:


> Shane...most hydrometers come with an instruction sheet. The conversion chart is usually on that piece of paper.
> 
> There are online calculators that do the calculation for you. I recall one that allows you to specify the calibration temp. Since I don't use them, I can't point you to one.
> 
> If worst comes to worst, buy another hydrometer the same as what you have. A spare hydrometer is always a good thing.
> 
> Steve



yea as i said cpfan i did get a paper with a couple examples of temperatures but not very many. I would like a coversion chart with a bunxh of different temperatures to choose from, since temperatures can greatly differ. I did find a online calculator and tried it out. but it would be nice to have a physical chart or even a formula to use for a 68 degree calibrated hydrometer.

i actually just tested my hydrometer for calibration. and i used my digital thermometer and got the water temperature to 68.5 which is close enough to 68 and my hydrometer is reading 1.006! Its supposed to be at 1.00 rite?! like is it normal for hydros to be of abit? i try to take care of it but admittingly the hydro has been banged around some. but now im wondering why its reading higher, and maybe my wines that iv been waiting to finish fermenting are done afterall...

But since i found out my new calibration temperature is 1.006 can i just use that as my hydrometers calibration temp? i will evetually get a new hydrometer but for now i got just this one and wines that may be closer to dry than i thought!


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## barryjo

@ shanek17: How did you verify the digital? I ask because my experience shows readings from different thermometers can vary greatly. 
It is the wine temp you are checking. Room temp doesn't matter. The temp corrections used in winemaking are about .001 for every 7 degrees. So I wouldn't be concerned about 2-3 degrees. Our hydrometers can be read accurately to about 1/2 a tick. And since the ticks are equal to .002, anything else is guesswork. The instruction sheet that came with my hydrometer uses the example of must temp at 84 deg F. The correction is 3. That is, .003 on the scale.


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## shanek17

barryjo said:


> @ shanek17: How did you verify the digital? I ask because my experience shows readings from different thermometers can vary greatly.
> It is the wine temp you are checking. Room temp doesn't matter. The temp corrections used in winemaking are about .001 for every 7 degrees. So I wouldn't be concerned about 2-3 degrees. Our hydrometers can be read accurately to about 1/2 a tick. And since the ticks are equal to .002, anything else is guesswork. The instruction sheet that came with my hydrometer uses the example of must temp at 84 deg F. The correction is 3. That is, .003 on the scale.



i checked the digital using boiling water and its very accurate. yea i understand now that the temperatures dont have a great effect on the hydrometer. im just surprised and dissapointed that my hydrometer is calibrated to 68 and yet i test it and its actually calibrated to 1.006. which is a big difference. iv had some batches that iv been thinking were stuck and now i realize they are actually more dry than i thought. Whether or not it was me that banged up the hydro and its calibration or if it was manufactured that way, i do not know. i should have checked the calibration when i first got it!


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## sfoss

Thank you guys for this great sticky. I have made wine before, with alot of help and this was the first time I am making this on my own. You have really helped me to not be afraid of the hydrometer! Hugs!


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## PrincessVintah

I'm with Shelly! ThankYouThankYouThankYou! Thank you for sharing this info.


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## astrologica

Just found this. Thank you.


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## shanek17

astrologica said:


> Just found this. Thank you.



Wow this threads gettin alot of thank yous now! If you all want to watch a helpful hydrometer video go to youtube to craigtube and find his hydrometer video. His video is the best! i would post the video directly if i wasnt on my cell phone.


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## maywissa

*Thank you!*

Thanks for this, however, I'm still worried about our gallon of Sauvignon that's reading 0.98 on an Alla Hydrometer (been fermenting for 21 days so far).

I don't understand why there are two different ranges for wine: one at the top of the hydrometer (where I'm sitting right now) and one at the bottom (desert wine or table wine). I thought mine would score at the table wine section?


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## cpfan

maywissa....

First, I suspect that your reading is actually .998 not .980. Regardless, anything below 1.000 means that fermentation is basically complete, as it should be after 21 days.

Second, you ask about the sections on the ALLA hydrometer. I am looking at my ALLA hydrometer (but know that they make several models). A reading of .998 is in the WINE section, and means (to me) that the wine is finished. The Table Wine and Dessert Wine sections are both above 1.060. These are starting specific gravity readings, and are actually kinda meaningless (at least to me).

Steve


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## vernsgal

Thanks for the pic. I've done a lot of kit wines and sometimes got my readings muddled ( Old age sometimes does that to you, Lol) Printed the pic and now if I have a senior's moment I just do a recheck.


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## Tonio6vt

Hello Jamie,

I am a french student and the subject of your post is exactly what I try to understand! For my master research, I realize an online survey to understand european consumer habits when people buy wine.

It ‘s anonym and it takes you less than 5 minutes. It will be very kind of people to answer it.
The more answers I would collect, the more reliable would be the survey.

To answer it, follow this link:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...ue&formkey=dFB2ZXBnV0pmdkNpUHItcFFOQnpIU2c6MQ

Many thanks in advance!
Antoine


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## lloyd1900

I am new to wine making and have a question. During the primary fermentation (aerobic) I understand the yeast is consuming the sugar but not making alcohol so the SG will be going down but without the alcohol? Is that correct? 
Because of this I have been measuring the SG again just before I put into demijon and start of the anaerobic fermentation (when yeast does convert sugar to alcohol). I have added sugar at this stage to get the SG to 1.100.
I think I must be wrong as I seem to be adding a lot of sugar. 
Main question therefore is - is the starting SG the SG of the must or the SG just before it is added to the demijon with airlock?
Many thanks for help


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## cpfan

lloyd1900 said:


> I am new to wine making and have a question. During the primary fermentation (aerobic) I understand the yeast is consuming the sugar but not making alcohol so the SG will be going down but without the alcohol? Is that correct?
> Because of this I have been measuring the SG again just before I put into demijon and start of the anaerobic fermentation (when yeast does convert sugar to alcohol). I have added sugar at this stage to get the SG to 1.100.
> I think I must be wrong as I seem to be adding a lot of sugar.
> Main question therefore is - is the starting SG the SG of the must or the SG just before it is added to the demijon with airlock?
> Many thanks for help


The starting sg is the reading prior to pitching the yeast. For example,

Mix up ingredients, get sg 1.082. Pitch yeast.
Start of anaerobic (_how do you detect this anyway?_ ). 1.050
End of fermentation. .992

Alcohol is (1.082 - .992) * 133 = .090 * 133 = 12%

Note that the 1.050 is not used anywhere in the calculation.

Is the yeast making alcohol during the aerobic fermentation? I always thought so.

I think that very few winemakers worry about the difference between aerobic & anaerobic fermentation. I understand that the yeast needs oxygen to get started, so I stir vigourously in order to include oxygen throughout the must. When is the O2 used up? Don't know, don't care. I doubt that it is when I transfer to a secondary vessel (eg carboy) to complete fermentation, because the sg is below 1.010 at that point.

BTW, please do not be afraid to start a new thread. Your question seems only barely related to this thread.

Steve


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## tucson

Jalapeño wine, before pitched yeast 1.110 added yeast and fruit then went to 1.090. Dried to .992 and back sweeten to 1.005. What would the % be?


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## cpfan

tucson said:


> Jalapeño wine, before pitched yeast 1.110 added yeast and fruit then went to 1.090. Dried to .992 and back sweeten to 1.005. What would the % be?


Starting sg 1.110, final sg .992, so %alc is (1.110 - .992) * 133 = .118 * 133 = 15.7%

However, it appears that you added* fruit* after taking the initial sg. In general, fruit means more sugar, so higher alcohol, but impossible to calculate. However, if you meant that the jalapenos were the fruit then I don't think there's much sugar content, so the 15.7% is probably pretty close.

Steve


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## tucson

Yes, the only fruit was 15 jalapeños and man-o-man does it have a bite in back of the throat, the mint and apple juice were a nice touch.


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## JoyofWine

Can someone please clarify the correct readings of the notches between .990 and 1.000?

Like if the reading is a notch above 1.000 would that be .998?


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## jimmyjames23

Each notch is worth 2.


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## jimmyjames23

JoyofWine said:


> Can someone please clarify the correct readings of the notches between .990 and 1.000?
> 
> Like if the reading is a notch above 1.000 would that be .998?



That is correct.


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## JoyofWine

Thank you!


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## sdelli

Great pics Jim! Looks good. Only thing to make sure gets added is what Wade left a link to..... If you don't read it correctly it still is not an accurate piece of equipment. Must read it at the bottom of the curve.....


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## Skyshark93

Thanks for this post. I am a newbie with wine making, thus this helped me out so much. I had a lot of question about the hydrometer. I now understand. Thank you.


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## Elmer

I have my hydrometer for atleast 7 years.
During that time I have never got a reading above 1.000.
I know wine should read above 1.000 to .995, but it had never happened.

The guy at the local wine shop had always told me that since I usually kept my wine in a colder spot (65 degrees) it would never read above 1.000.

So I finally got around to testing my Hydrometer in water and it read 1.002 (1st notch below 1.000).

in my last 2 batchs I had transfered to carboy and stopped fermentation when I got atleast 1 week of nothing but 1.000 reading. 

Given how my Hydrometer reads in water, is it safe to assume that my 1.000 is someone elses .995?


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## dralarms

Nope, .998 would be closer to correct. I'd replace that bugger.


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## Elmer

dralarms said:


> Nope, .998 would be closer to correct. I'd replace that bugger.



I am stopping by the wine supply store on the way home.
BUt in the 7 years of making wine, I have never had it go to .998!

But I will take your advice!


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## Elmer

Elmer said:


> I am stopping by the wine supply store on the way home.
> BUt in the 7 years of making wine, I have never had it go to .998!
> 
> But I will take your advice!



So I stopped by my wine supply store, but the owner told me not to replace the hydrometer because it was probably just calibrated off a little.

Wouldnt you know it, I get home and bump into my supply rack and that bugger fell and smashed to the ground!

So I will be replacing it after all!


----------



## moesagoodboy

Elmer said:


> So I stopped by my wine supply store, but the owner told me not to replace the hydrometer because it was probably just calibrated off a little.
> 
> Wouldnt you know it, I get home and bump into my supply rack and that bugger fell and smashed to the ground!
> 
> So I will be replacing it after all!



Seven years is really good. My first one only lasted 5 months. Verify the calibration against distilled water. And buy a second one for reserve, you might be on losing streak.

Joe


----------



## Elmer

Bought a brand new Hydrometer. Tested it on both tap water and filtered water out of my fridge. Below are the results.
Once again, in 7-8 years I have never been above 1.000.
Could it be my altitude? My water?

Filtered



Tapwater


----------



## robie

Temperature is a factor and should be considered. Most hydrometers come with a compensation chart, based on the calibration temperature of the specific hydrometer. Some are calibrated to 60F, some to 68F and maybe even something else, so check your hydrometers documentation.

Also, tape water is almost always going to have a higher SG than distilled water. You should check it in distilled water only, if you want a truly accurate reading. 

When you insert the hydrometer, be sure to spin it to remove all the tiny bubbles that might have formed on it. They can affect the reading.

In the end, the actual reading is not that terribly important as long as the wine ferments to the 1.000 mark or lower (.995 to .999). If it does get into that range, once the SG reading has not changed for 3 days in a row, fermentation is finished.

As far as calculating ABV from the hydrometer readings, it is only a close estimate anyway.


----------



## x_diver

Distilled water has a SG of 1.000. So how is it that wine can ferment to a SG of less than 1.000? The tables I see online indicate that a SG of 1.000 has almost no sugar.

I ask because I am new to wine making and my first batch of Welch's has a SG of 1.000 - yet it is still bubbling.


----------



## FABulousWines

I think it is because alcohol has a lower SG than water. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## Rocky

FAB, you are absolutely right. Wine can go below 1.000 because it contains ethyl alcohol which has an SG of 0.787.


----------



## Rocky

My only question concerning using a hydrometer is, How does the hydrometer know on which side of it I am standing so that it always turns the SG scale away from me?! I swear this thing is alive.


----------



## jdrum

Rocky im glad im not the only one that happens to

jim


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## niall111

Damn, I read this whole thread thinking someone else would surely ask this... So at the risk of looking like a complete idiot, here goes!

I have no problems with the numbers, I can figure out the readings and numbers required just fine. My problem is getting a damn reading in the first place. My hygrometer sits in a cylindrical tube like this one:
http://projectsunlight.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Trust-your-hydrometer.jpg

I assume that's how most people use theirs as well? But I'll be damned if my hygrometer has ever stood straight up on it's own like the picture indicates. I can't seem to get a level surface anywhere in my working area, so i'm forced to use my fingers to TRY and keep the hygrometer straight, but for such a sensitive measurement, I feel like trying to get it to float vertically is just affecting the measurement too much, no? If I make a small ring by bending my index finger it seems like there's too much friction when the hygrometer touches my skin, and it won't "float" properly? How do normal people handle this!?


----------



## jamesngalveston

try getting a smaller tube, and fill it to the very top


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## GEM

Maybe you need a new hydrometer if it is not sitting straight up in the tube and must. I use mine both in a tube and in the bucket and it always sits straight up. Don't know why yours does not do that too. Read at the bottom of the miniscus or if it is at an angle, read at the midpoint of the miniscus. For less than $10 I would just get a new one, especially since most of us break them occasionally. Cheers, Gary


----------



## cmason1957

Always have two (or maybe three) hydrometers in your work area. They break at the absolutely worst times possible. 

I do have sort of a solution to that being on the wrong side. I always buy hydrometers with colored paper and if it is on the wrong side, I get the measurement on whatever side it presents to me, then trace around to the SG scale. It mostly seems to work.


----------



## FABulousWines

cmason1957 said:


> Always have two (or maybe three) hydrometers in your work area. They break at the absolutely worst times possible.
> 
> I do have sort of a solution to that being on the wrong side. I always buy hydrometers with colored paper and if it is on the wrong side, I get the measurement on whatever side it presents to me, then trace around to the SG scale. It mostly seems to work.



I broke mine on a Saturday afternoon and got to the LHBS with just 10 minutes to closing time. Close call. I came home with two. 

Agree with the others. If it doesn't stand vertical on its own, somethings wrong. It should have weight in the bottom which causes it to float vertically. Can you post a pic?


----------



## fabrictodyefor

ok, since I seem to be having hydrometer issues.....Neither side of my numbers look like yours  One side starts at 0 and goes up in increments of 5's and at the top it says Tralle the other side starts at 0 and goes up in increments of 10's and says Proof at the top. And I did get this at a wine making shop. Any suggestions?


----------



## jamesngalveston

This Proof and Tralle Hydrometer is a professional grade hydrometer that has a scale that goes to 200 proof. It is used to calculate proof in higher alcoholic beverages as it is not accurate for lower alcohol products like beer or wine.
I would get a regular everyday wine making hydrometer..unless you are going to do some cooking on the back woods stove.


----------



## fabrictodyefor

thank you for the info, this hydro is what the wine making shop sold to me....I'll be going back there and asking them about this. She knew I was only making wine, not the hard stuff!


----------



## Pamrn35

I'm really hoping this is the appropriate place to post this question. I'm extremely new to this...as in very first time attempting to make muscadine wine. I'm using kirk's Muscadine wine recipe I found on Pinterest, it's very basic and I didn't take a sg level when I began...I got a little nervous about it not turning out very well so I bought a hydrometer and took a reading today, which is day 5 of my primary fermentation, sg level is 1.132 is this good, bad or ugly....if ugly can it be fixed?


----------



## Julie

Well, you are either going to have a very high alcohol wine or an ok alcohol and a very sweet wine.


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## Pamrn35

Ok, thx....at this point , it there anything I can do to counter the high sweetness?


----------



## Sammyk

Not sure if this will help now but we used Kirk's recipe on the 2nd wine we made in 2011. Not enough berries and very light on flavor. On the advice here we added more blueberries and a can of Vinter's Harvest Blueberry to what we had going. It turned out to be one of our favorites and only a few bottles left now.
Do you have a LHBS that is open today?


----------



## fabrictodyefor

I have read and re-read this thread several times. My very first batch of choke cherry wine, I did not have the correct hydrometer. So, this morning right before I added the yeast, I tested my new batch of plum wine. It read 1.1010. Per the picture that means hot to rocket fuel. And what does "hot to rocket fuel" mean?


----------



## barryjo

fabrictodyefor said:


> I have read and re-read this thread several times. My very first batch of choke cherry wine, I did not have the correct hydrometer. So, this morning right before I added the yeast, I tested my new batch of plum wine. It read 1.1010. Per the picture that means hot to rocket fuel. And what does "hot to rocket fuel" mean?


 
"Hot to rocket fuel" is a "slight"  exaggeration of the alcohol content of the finished wine. Depending on how the ferment goes, you will have a high alcohol wine or a sweet wine. Either will usually require some "doctoring" at the end. Depending on the severity.


----------



## fabrictodyefor

So, should I have taken a hydrometer reading before I added the sugar? And if the reading was high, could I have then added less sugar than the recipe called for? This is the recipe I used: ( although I multiplied by 5)
•6 lbs plums 
•1-1/2 lbs fine granulated sugar 
•Water to one gallon 
•1-1/2 tsp acid blend 
•1 tsp pectic enzyme 
•3/4 tsp yeast nutrient 
•1/4 tsp yeast energizer 
•1/8 tsp grape tannin 
•wine yeast
I do prefer a dry rather than a sweet wine. Thanks for the response and the help


----------



## barryjo

fabrictodyefor said:


> So, should I have taken a hydrometer reading before I added the sugar? And if the reading was high, could I have then added less sugar than the recipe called for? This is the recipe I
> 
> Because fruit can have varying amounts of sugar, a SG reading is always advisable before adding more. Then you add sugar to bring up the SG to an acceptable level, depending on how dry you want it. Also, I have found that using simple syrup to sweeten is easier to mix in than granulated.
> Simple syrup: 2 cups sugar, 1 cup water. Gently simmer for about 10 minutes to make sure the sugar has completely dissolved. If it has not dissloved, you will have rock candy form in the bottle of the container!!!
> The amount of sugar given in a recipe I take as a suggestion.
> 
> Keep wining. It makes you feel better!


----------



## jamesngalveston

i let the pectin break down the fruit for a day are two..then take my hydrometer reading....then add my sugar to get to what I use (1.110).


----------



## fabrictodyefor

LOL, not many know where Wright, WY is! Thanks, barryjo, this is only my second batch of wine. Compared to my dad's way of making wine, this is rocket science! We'll just have to see how it goes and if I need to "fix" it down the road I'm sure I'll have more questions! Just racked my choke cherry for the second time this morning. Didn't have the correct hydrometer during my initial making....but now it reads 1.040. It is still working, but the way I understand it, I should rack it about once a month....until???? After I syphoned it into the carboy I sat and watched for a few minutes and was glad to see it still working! It is pretty clear, but probably not clear enough. Will that 1.040 number go down as it continues to work? Also how much "space" at the top of the carboy is acceptable? I made what I thought was 7 1/2 gal....but when racked it fits into 1) 5 gallon and 2) one gallons...and the one gallons have more than a couple of inches of head room. should I get marbles to fill the space?


----------



## barryjo

fabrictodyefor said:


> LOL, not many know where Wright, WY is! Thanks, barryjo, this is only my second batch of wine. Compared to my dad's way of making wine, this is rocket science! We'll just have to see how it goes and if I need to "fix" it down the road I'm sure I'll have more questions! Just racked my choke cherry for the second time this morning. Didn't have the correct hydrometer during my initial making....but now it reads 1.040. It is still working, but the way I understand it, I should rack it about once a month....until????
> My experience with chokecherry is that you let it stop fermenting without racking. I have found that this wine is very hard to clear to the point where you get no sediment. I racked a batch 3 times, used Superclear and it still had "stuff" in the bottom. After 1 1/2 years!
> 
> 
> After I syphoned it into the carboy I sat and watched for a few minutes and was glad to see it still working! It is pretty clear, but probably not clear enough. Will that 1.040 number go down as it continues to work?
> 
> It will continue to go down. Unless you put in excess sugar, it should get close to 1.000.
> 
> Also how much "space" at the top of the carboy is acceptable? I made what I thought was 7 1/2 gal....but when racked it fits into 1) 5 gallon and 2) one gallons...and the one gallons have more than a couple of inches of head room. should I get marbles to fill the space?


 
I am going to go out on a limb here with headspace. If you rack while some fermentation is occuring, CO2 forms on the surface. No problem. When you rack later, add 1/4 tsp potassium metabisulfate to the carboy. Only rack every 3 months or so. I am coming to the conclusion that the issue of headspace is a bit over-rated. Once the wine has been racked, you need to keep "outside" air from entering. Therefore an airlock. But the changes in barometric pressure cause the carboy to "inhale and exhale". The airlocks we use are OK for headspace of 1-2". If the airlock has a bigger capacity, no air will enter, even with greater headspace. So I take a 2-piece airlock, slip a piece of vinyl tubing over the inside part and put the other end in a larger jar. Add sulfite water, vodka or maybe glycerine. 
Hope this doesn't confuse you. 
I presently have 2 chokecherries, 2 pomegranate/cherry and a moscoto working. My winery smells SSSOOOOO good!


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## srcorndog

Great job! I have used a similar idea to understand but you had the courage to publish! Kudos to you!


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## BonnieLynn

Haven't even had my hydrometer for a month and it slipped out of my hands while washing tonight! Grrrrrr  Glass everywhere!


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## sour_grapes

Standard advice: Don't buy 1 to replace it; instead, buy two. Then you will have a spare.

Since I did that, I have not broken another! (Knock on wood.)


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## sunlandwines

hey all, I'm about to take the SG of my lemon wine, which has been bubbling away for 13 days now. I still hear a bubbling sound when I listen, sort of akin to after you've poured a coke into a glass. Question is: do I stir the cap into the wine before I take the reading? or do I sort of just push it aside? (This is my first batch of wine -- lemons from a tree on the property).


----------



## grapeman

It makes it easier to take a reading if you have a long cylinder and put just some of the wine in it. You can strain it through a sieve or something similar so you don't get a lot of the pulp. Next time it will be easier if you put the lemon pulp into a strainer or fruit bag. If you don't have cylinder you can try to push it aside, but it will keep coming back and interfering with the reading.


----------



## PostToastee

I am new. I'm only gong to be making merlots, cabernets and chardonnays. I'm a little confused about this post because it appears a lot of people are making something other than a traditional wine. That does not have any bearing on how to read and interpret the hydrometer. Is that correct?


----------



## barryjo

The hydrometer doesn't have any idea what it is sitting in. The hydrometers job is to compare the Specific Gravity of the liquid to that of plain water. Undissolved solids don't really affect it. However, the amount of alcohol is what changes the reading. Also, the amount of other dissolved solids (sugar for instance) will affect the reading. 
And I don't advise getting too persnickity with the use of the hydrometer. They are calibrated under special conditions. Such as 60 degrees, distilled water). For instance, testing wine at 70 degrees will affect the reading by about .001. Unless you are a research chemist, I wouldn't get too carried away. 
Later, if you want to get into the precision side, go ahead. For now, have fun. Make wine. Good luck.


----------



## addseo1115

*Nice*

You have one a great job. Thanks for sharing your photos.


----------



## Chuck-crisler

*Follow on question*

If you are starting on the skins/pulp/stems, how do you get an accurate initial reading? Mine gave me just about any value I wanted because the must was so thick.

Chuck Crisler


----------



## sour_grapes

One way is to sink a strainer into the must, and pull out liquid from the "well" that forms using a wine thief. Transfer the wine to a testing cylinder, and use the hydrometer as usual.

Another way is to buy a refractometer, which only needs a small volume of must.


----------



## vacuumpumpman

Very same principles as Paul stated above - but you can take your Baster and push it below the skins and suck up some juice and then put it in the appropriate cylinder and test your readings as well.


----------



## Cydersyd

*Is this normal?*

Hi. My first wine kit brew of Pinot Grigio has stopped fermenting after 8 days. It was fairly aggressive at the start but reduced after about 5 days.
Today it has stopped! I have taken an hydrometer reading which is 991.
Question, is this OK after such a short time?
I failed to take a hydrometer reading at the beginning, what would that have been?
I will take two more daily readings to confirm it's finished. Can I then add the finings and stabiliser to complete the process.

Looking forward to your responses.

Cheers from the UK.


----------



## sour_grapes

Cydersyd said:


> Hi. My first wine kit brew of Pinot Grigio has stopped fermenting after 8 days. It was fairly aggressive at the start but reduced after about 5 days.
> Today it has stopped! I have taken an hydrometer reading which is 991.
> Question, is this OK after such a short time?
> I failed to take a hydrometer reading at the beginning, what would that have been?
> I will take two more daily readings to confirm it's finished. Can I then add the finings and stabiliser to complete the process.
> 
> Looking forward to your responses.
> 
> Cheers from the UK.



Yes, it would be not abnormal for your specific gravity (SG) to reduce to 0.991 in 8 days. (It seems a bit quick, but within normal range.)

We don't know what it was to start. If this is a kit, as you stated, then it was likely in the range of 1.080 to 1.095 or so. What kind of kit was it?

Yes, after you determine it is finished (and it likely is), you can then add the finings and stabilizer. At this point, the wine should be in a glass carboy or demijohn with an airlock.


----------



## Cydersyd

Thanks for your quick reply Paul it has set my mind at rest and saved the brew going down the drain.
I will give a couple of days to ensure that the SG remains static and then continue with the process.

Regards.


----------



## japaisley1

Hello there! I am having trouble with my hydrometer. I'm new at this. I got a reading of just under 2. It is my 6th day in from pitching and fermentation started on day 2. It is a chiraz wine. A kit. 
Thanks guys!!


----------



## heatherd

japaisley1 said:


> Hello there! I am having trouble with my hydrometer. I'm new at this. I got a reading of just under 2. It is my 6th day in from pitching and fermentation started on day 2. It is a chiraz wine. A kit.
> Thanks guys!!



@japaisley1

What you need is a triple scale hydrometer. When you get one, it will have specific gravity as one of the scales, and that measurement will allow you to know when you're at 0.090-ish and your wine is done fermenting.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21RGBiBfzhL.jpg

http://www.2daydeliver.com/product_detail.php?id=SKUB000E60U6Y#.VprkEK_SmUk


----------



## sour_grapes

I agree with heather, but just pointing out that she really means 0.990. Actually, I would call anything below 0.994 or 0.995 or so finished.


----------



## Bowmag

*Need help*

I am in the process of making blueberry wine my starting specific gravity of 1.110 @ 75*F I though that it would give about 12% but my final reading was 1.060 @75*F so I believe that gives about 6.5 % how can I get it up to about 12%


----------



## sour_grapes

Bowmag said:


> I am in the process of making blueberry wine my starting specific gravity of 1.110 @ 75*F I though that it would give about 12% but my final reading was 1.060 @75*F so I believe that gives about 6.5 % how can I get it up to about 12%



It sounds like your fermentation has stalled. How long ago did you start? What yeast did you use? Did you use any yeast nutrient? How long has it been sitting at 1.060?

Without knowing the details, my suggestion would be to make a yeast starter with a yeast like EC-1118 and try to restart the fermentation.

And welcome to the forum!


----------



## Bowmag

I started it 12/26/15 the fermentation really slow down about 2weeks ago today I added 2 teaspoons of Fermax. The yeast I used red star Montrachet . Thanks for the help


----------



## Fedoradude

Is it possible for Specific Gravity to INcrease during time in the carboy? I racked my Cab Sauv juice from the Primary Fermenter into the carboy 10 days ago and it was around 0.994 or so (see attached pic). 

But now, after 10 days, the S.G. is up to just over 1.0 in the thief sample. Is that possible? If so, is it a good thing this is happening? The Winexpert kit instructions say don't begin degassing or refining until it's below 0.996....

Thanks for the insights I know you all will offer.


----------



## barbiek

No not possible unless taken the day after mix, however it is possible to get a false reading from the sample taken. Fi the solids and gas pushing the hydrometer up. You want to give the hydrometer a spin or 2 I always do this 3 times. Take a reading each time


----------



## richmke

Fedoradude said:


> in the thief sample. Is that possible?



When you use a thief (vs free floating as in the picture), you have to be careful that the hydrometer is not sticking to the side of the thief or test jar.

I have wondered if the amount of dissolved CO2 would influence the SG. As you remove CO2, the SG should decrease. Or, when CO2 is high, could the CO2 come out of solution, attach to the hydrometer, and float it? That would lead to a falsely high SG reading. Giving a good stir (or shaking wine in the test jar) before taking an SG reading should minimize the effect.


----------



## Fedoradude

OK. I'll retest tonight and see what readings I get. Thanks, all.


----------



## Fedoradude

Fedoradude said:


> OK. I'll retest tonight and see what readings I get. Thanks, all.



Calibrated my hydrometer tonite. Water at 70 degs F it read 1.000. So, I re-thiefed a sample (if that's a word) and retested and specific gravity was right where it should've been. So...onto the next step!


----------



## sour_grapes

Fedoradude said:


> So, I re-thiefed a sample (if that's a word) and retested



Yes, "sample" is definitely a word!

But seriously, all seems well and you are in good shape!


----------



## Radek

Hi. This may help You.
Use to Measure Specific Gravity of Your Brew.
This Hydrometer is specifically designed for home brew beer, wine & cider making. The Homebrew Hydrometer is the most versatile instrument you can have in your home brew tool box. It allows you to calculate alcohol, see when the fermentation is finished and diagnose/troubleshoot problems. Coloured bands indicate where to start and finish wines and beers making it very easy to read.
Wine and Beer Hydrometer 0-25 Blg % (Balling)
Lenght: 17 cm

Method of measurement: 
1. Pour the tested solution into test-tube or another height vessel.
2.Put the meter into the liquid ( the indicator must not touch the vessel walls or bottom)
3.After the immersion level has set, read the value.
The tested solution temperature at measurement should be 20°C.


----------



## Radek

Here You are How to use hydrometer and alcohol meter 
http://alcofermbrew.com/en/FAQ-i7.html


----------



## Rhetoric

How do you, like, use a hydrometer? I have never seen one, only pictures on Amazon. It would be nice to have a very obvious description, step by step, assuming nothing. Also, can a refractometer be employed for the same effect?

Oh, I just saw a post (why couldn't I see it before?) that explains part of this. You pour some must in a tube. How do you pour it into the tube? And what do you do with it afterward? Do you pour it back into the batch or discard?


----------



## mennyg19

Dont need to use a tube. As long as ur hydrometer is sterilized, you can drop it straight into your must and take a reading from there


----------



## wineforfun

Rhetoric said:


> How do you, like, use a hydrometer? I have never seen one, only pictures on Amazon. It would be nice to have a very obvious description, step by step, assuming nothing. Also, can a refractometer be employed for the same effect?
> 
> Oh, I just saw a post (why couldn't I see it before?) that explains part of this. You pour some must in a tube. How do you pour it into the tube? And what do you do with it afterward? Do you pour it back into the batch or discard?



I use a baster, draw enough from primary/secondary, put it into test tube. Insert hydrometer, take reading, then dump "must" back into primary/secondary.

Or if fermenting in a large primary (such as doing a 6 gal. batch, etc.) then you could just put hydrometer into primary, as mentioned.


----------



## Scooter68

mennyg19 said:


> Dont need to use a tube. As long as ur hydrometer is sterilized, you can drop it straight into your must and take a reading from there




Good luck fishing it out of a carboy or reading it accurately from a bucket as well. 
Basically you use a testing tube away from the must so:
1) You can read it accurately.
2) To avoid the risk of contaminating your must (One mistake and you can loose your entire batch to a nasty infection.)
3) When you have a fermentation bag in the must it's going to be in the way of the hydrometer and/or give a false reading.
4) If your must is in primary and you have a lot of loose fruit pulp the reading will be way off, so you draw off the clear or semi-clear liquid at the top of the bucket.


----------



## Johnd

Scooter68 said:


> Good luck fishing it out of a carboy or reading it accurately from a bucket as well.



Faced with the dilemma of having to dig a hydrometer out of a carboy, but wanting to streamline the SG reading process, I tied a foot of 2.5 lb test fishing line on to the top of my hydrometer. A spritz of KMS, into the carboy for a reading, rinse and dry, done. Works like a charm


----------



## richmke

Scooter68 said:


> 1) You can read it accurately.



Accuracy is only needed at the beginning and the end of the ferment. At the beginning to get a good starting SG. At that point, it is easy to read in the bucket.

At the end you need to be able to read it well enough to see that you get the same reading 2-3 days apart.

Since I only ferment one batch at a time, it is not a problem leaving it in the primary/secondary.

If you use a carboy for a secondary, I remove the hydrometer by racking the wine out, and then slowly tipping the carboy.



> 2) To avoid the risk of contaminating your must (One mistake and you can loose your entire batch to a nasty infection.)



By leaving it in the fermentor, you minimize contamination because you are not introducing anything new each time you read. If you remove some wine to a reading jar, then you either: 1) dump the wine, or 2) pour it back in with the other wine. #2 has just as much risk of contamination, if not more.



> 3) When you have a fermentation bag in the must it's going to be in the way of the hydrometer and/or give a false reading.



Since the end is when you need accuracy, by then you can remove the bag.



> 4) If your must is in primary and you have a lot of loose fruit pulp the reading will be way off, so you draw off the clear or semi-clear liquid at the top of the bucket.



I'll give you this one.


----------



## Maerzie

I'm such a newbie, I don't even understand the picture. But, I don't want this wine to be dry anyway. I want it to be just lightly sweet, just a hair above dry. So then, what do I shoot for? I actually made grape jam out of the majority of grapes, and only saved a pint of them to use to TRY a little wine, in case it didn't turn out for a first time. (I have made beet wine eons ago, but that doesn't count, as it was fake wine with citrus fruit for the actual flavor and beets mostly for the color.)

I only had a pint of grapes, a slice of lemon, and I added some Montrachet yeast, (the only kind I could find locally, as I didn't want to use bread yeast) dissolved in a little warm sugar water. I have since tasted it a few times when I stirred it, and it was too dry, so I added some Karo corn syrup. It's probably about 2-3 weeks into fermenting, and it was still too dry, and barely working, so I added the rest of the pkg. of yeast and some more Karo Syrup. I do stir it daily, but I actually don't know what I'm doing. I'm just going by taste and bubbles, as I don't have a hydrometer either. Is there a worse or better kind to buy? (I do understand yeast, a bit, from making breads.) How do I finish this up? It's starting to taste right. I have it in a small crock, and I haven't done any straining yet. HELP!


----------



## Julie

Maerzie said:


> I'm such a newbie, I don't even understand the picture. But, I don't want this wine to be dry anyway. I want it to be just lightly sweet, just a hair above dry. So then, what do I shoot for? I actually made grape jam out of the majority of grapes, and only saved a pint of them to use to TRY a little wine, in case it didn't turn out for a first time. (I have made beet wine eons ago, but that doesn't count, as it was fake wine with citrus fruit for the actual flavor and beets mostly for the color.)
> 
> I only had a pint of grapes, a slice of lemon, and I added some Montrachet yeast, (the only kind I could find locally, as I didn't want to use bread yeast) dissolved in a little warm sugar water. I have since tasted it a few times when I stirred it, and it was too dry, so I added some Karo corn syrup. It's probably about 2-3 weeks into fermenting, and it was still too dry, and barely working, so I added the rest of the pkg. of yeast and some more Karo Syrup. I do stir it daily, but I actually don't know what I'm doing. I'm just going by taste and bubbles, as I don't have a hydrometer either. Is there a worse or better kind to buy? (I do understand yeast, a bit, from making breads.) How do I finish this up? It's starting to taste right. I have it in a small crock, and I haven't done any straining yet. HELP!



We have tutorials on here you really need to read. Trying to ferment down to a certain level to leave some sweetness is nothing more than a crap shoot. Let it go dry then backsweeten to your likeness. You really need to get a hydrometer!


----------



## Johnd

Maerzie said:


> I'm such a newbie, I don't even understand the picture. But, I don't want this wine to be dry anyway. I want it to be just lightly sweet, just a hair above dry. So then, what do I shoot for? I actually made grape jam out of the majority of grapes, and only saved a pint of them to use to TRY a little wine, in case it didn't turn out for a first time. (I have made beet wine eons ago, but that doesn't count, as it was fake wine with citrus fruit for the actual flavor and beets mostly for the color.)
> 
> I only had a pint of grapes, a slice of lemon, and I added some Montrachet yeast, (the only kind I could find locally, as I didn't want to use bread yeast) dissolved in a little warm sugar water. I have since tasted it a few times when I stirred it, and it was too dry, so I added some Karo corn syrup. It's probably about 2-3 weeks into fermenting, and it was still too dry, and barely working, so I added the rest of the pkg. of yeast and some more Karo Syrup. I do stir it daily, but I actually don't know what I'm doing. I'm just going by taste and bubbles, as I don't have a hydrometer either. Is there a worse or better kind to buy? (I do understand yeast, a bit, from making breads.) How do I finish this up? It's starting to taste right. I have it in a small crock, and I haven't done any straining yet. HELP!



Just to add on to what Julie said, every time you tasted your wine and added sugar (karo syrup), you've only added more sugar for the yeast to turn to alcohol. Eventually, your method will work when the yeast have created so much alcohol that they die in it and you will have sugar left over in your wine, the sweetness you desire, but probably rocket fuel. 

A better method? Do some studying and reading to understand the winemaking process. Decide what alcohol content you want your finished wine to have and create the appropriate must using your hydrometer. Ferment it dry, allow it to clear, stabilize it with sulfite and sorbate, then adjust your sweetness, just the way you like it, without fermentation restarting, and no exploding bottles.


----------



## Maerzie

*Suggestions*

Thank you, John. I will also watch some tutorials, as I have zero interest in super-strong wine. I appreciate the information. Like I said. I am an absolute newbie, never even having watched anyone else make wine either.


----------



## wpt-me

Some LHBS hold classes to help new people to get started, might want to check!!

Bill


----------



## Radek

*how to use hydrometer ( sugar meter )*

1) how to use hydrometer ( sugar meter ) - here
2) how to use alcohol meter - here



Reading the Hydrometer:

This reading is an indication of how sweet/dry the wine is.A hydrometer is vital for consistent results in wine making and brewing. A hydrometer will show a high figure at the start of the fermentation and a low figure when the fermentation is finished. It gives a useful indication of the progress of the fermentation. To check that the liquid is fermenting, the SG reading must indicate a lower figure than the previous reading. A reading of SG 1.000 or lower for more than two days indicates that fermentation is at an end.The hydrometer should read SG 1.000 in tap water at 20ºC (68°F). The deviation may amount to 3 units of calibration above or below 1.000. Test the hydrometer and allow for the discrepancy, if any, when testing/measuring the liquid.

To use:

Always sterilize hydrometer and trial jar before use. Do not place in hot water, it may break.

Put sample of liquid to be tested into a trial jar. Lower hydrometer carefully into liquid, spin or shake to remove bubbles sticking to stem. If liquid is still fermenting, bubbles on the hydrometer may cause there ading to be incorrect, in this case remove the hydrometer and shake the sample to remove as much gas as possible. NOTE: TO CONVERT GRAVITY INTO BALLINGS PLEASE USE TABLE

When the hydrometer is steady in the liquid take the SG reading from where the surface of the liquid meets the stem at eye level. After use, rinse the hydrometer and wipedry.

Always take a reading of the liquid before adding yeast and fermentation starts. With kit wines it is convenient to take a reading after sugar (if any) has been added. It is best to dissolve sugar before adding, with country or fruit wines take a reading before adding sugar in order to calculate the correct amount of sugar to add.

Beer makers use the hydrometer in the same manner as for wine making, but can use the SG 1.005 point to check when the beer is ready for bottling.

The hydrometer "reads" the thickness of the liquid, if a lot of fruit is used and grain also is added this will increase the reading, the reading can be used in conjunction with a taste of the sample of liquid being tested.

To calculate the final strength of the wine, write down(omitting the decimal point) the SG

At the start of the ferment (i.e. after the sugar was added).Subtract from it the final SG, and divide the answer by 7.36; that is the percentage of alcohol by volume of your wine. Multiply that by 7 and divide by4 and it will give you the strength as proof spirit.

Starting SG – Final SG ÷7.36 = % Alcohol by volume then

% Alcohol by volume x 7 ÷ 4 = Strength as proof spirit


----------



## Scooter68

Recently someone posted to the board a strange issue - their SG reading actually went UP not down after a few days. After several questions and folks offering various ideas one key point was brought up. And active fermentation is producing a lot of CO2 gas. Not as much fresh soda pop but a lot none-the-less. As a result a hydrometer left in a fermentation bucket or even left in testing tube for a bit of time can collect a lot of CO2 bubbles and produce a false reading. Not at all unlike that glass, can or bottle of soda pop will push a straw up in the air as the CO2 in it gathers on the straw. 

Now there's obvliously a big difference in the weight of straw and a hydrometer certainly but on the other hand a hydrometer has a lot more surface area in the bulb and it only takes a few fractions of an inch to change your reading significantly. Let's say your hydrometer rises 1/4" - that's a lot but recently I watched mine climb more than a 1/16 of an inch in less than 10 seconds - So it rises 1/4" and that translates to a reading that should have been say 1.038 instead reads out at 1.050 WHOA! I took a reading last night and I was at 1.044 you say - NOW it's gone up .006? Well that's what a CO2 could do to your reading.

SO - When you take that reading I would suggest you start of course with a clean sanitized Hydrometer. Lower it into your wine must sampling tube and be ready to read it quickly if your fermentation is an active one. Just for sure you might give it a spin to shake off any CO2 bubbles but read soon, don't do like I did an walk away to get your reading glasses in the other room and then come back. You might be rudely surprised.

(This also suggests that those who want to leave their hydrometer in their fermentation container run the risk of false readings unless they remove the hydrometer before taking that reading - that then would be counter-productive to what some have stated are reasons for leaving the hydrometer in the container to begin with.)


----------



## kirknotes

oops - I didn't read the whole thread....great thank you.


----------



## Maine

Just took a reading on day seven of fermentation SG =1.000 pH=3.3
Advice?


----------



## Scooter68

Maine said:


> Just took a reading on day seven of fermentation SG =1.000 pH=3.3
> Advice?



You need to start a new thread with this question - Include details about your wine to include type, original SG reading, temps, etc. The more info you provide the better the quality of the answers you will receive. This thread exist to help new folks learn how to read a hydrometer. Interpretation of the readings depends on the wine and a variety of other details.


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## Loghousewines

Thanks Jim, nice job. Also always recommend to have a spare one or two on hand. They break easy and roll off things.


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## Donatelo

I tested my current hydrometer in distilled water. I gave me a reading of .996 several times. Temp is about 74 degrees F . Do hydrometers change?. Also, I started a kit a few days back and took the Sg as 1.080. I added a couple of cups sugar/water syrup and brought the SG up to 1.085. So, if .996=SG of 1.000 then a Sg of 1.080 actually = 1.084. Addition of the syrup made it 1.085 which is actually 1.089. Is this correct to your thinking? It's all kind of a moot point, since I plan to ferment it out to dry.


----------



## cmason1957

Donatelo said:


> I tested my current hydrometer in distilled water. I gave me a reading of .996 several times. Temp is about 74 degrees F . Do hydrometers change?. Also, I started a kit a few days back and took the Sg as 1.080. I added a couple of cups sugar/water syrup and brought the SG up to 1.085. So, if .996=SG of 1.000 then a Sg of 1.080 actually = 1.084. Addition of the syrup made it 1.085 which is actually 1.089. Is this correct to your thinking? It's all kind of a moot point, since I plan to ferment it out to dry.



Don't forget there is also a temperature correction that should be applied to your SG reading. I am going to guess that your hydrometer is calibrated to 60 deg F. So that 0.996 at 74 would really be 0.998 at 60, a delta of just .002. The amount to actually apply at the 1.085 also will depend on the temp of the must when you measured it. If it happened to be 74 deg F, then 1.080 really was 1.082 and you would add that .002 to it to make it 1.084. if it was 68 deg F the actual hydrometer reading would be 1.081.


----------



## Donatelo

Everything was done at a controlled room temp of 74 degrees. My office is 74 degrees . In the past, with a different hydrometer, it read pretty much 1.000 for distilled water. But that hydrometer has since gone the way that fragile hydrometers so often go. I'm not too worried about this since I'm going to ferment to dry, regardless. This wine smells really nice and when it slows down I will take it down to the storm cellar to age out for 3 or 4 months before bottling.
Thanks for your comments.
Update : I just dug out a brand new hydrometer and tested both in 70 degree distilled water and guess what? There is a .004 Sg difference! the new one reads 1.00 at 70 degrees and the one I have been using reads .996! Just goes to show calibrate your hydrometer and account for any deviation.


----------



## Certified

jdrum said:


> ok i want to start a thread on how to use and under stand a hydrometer.
> as a relitive newbie, i look at the problem with a different perspective than the more experienced, when i got my first hydrometer, i didn't know crap about it
> so i read the directions, and tutoriels, some were good and some were confusing
> 
> so this will be a work in process, and i welcome ANY constructive critisim to improve the topic.
> View attachment 3211
> 
> this is a start, looking at the sg scale. i plan to do another pic relating the other scales as i have time
> View attachment 3233
> 
> update
> 
> jim


Thanks for the pictorial.
Specific and simple is always Best.


----------



## wineview

Using a completely sanitized hydrometer and test jar do you discard the sample or return it to the bucket.


----------



## Johnd

wineview said:


> Using a completely sanitized hydrometer and test jar do you discard the sample or return it to the bucket.



I return them to the bucket.


----------



## joeswine

Look I think if you don't learn or have a hydromenter your missing the whole process.their easy to use simple to take care of and you should always have a back up one.
By all means return your sample back to the fermentation vessel.
Well that's my 2cents


----------



## Thig

wineview said:


> Using a completely sanitized hydrometer and test jar do you discard the sample or return it to the bucket.


If it is an all juice bucket I don't even use the test jar, I just sanitize and put directly in the bucket.


----------



## Scooter68

For Temperature correction I would only do that at the beginning or the end when I'm trying to be exact on my starting SG or when I'm trying to determine if the fermentation is 100% complete. In between it doesn't matter. Even at the beginning... With the volume losses and topping off, you are only going to be getting a 'aim point' for your eventual ABV unless you have a known content of the topping off wine and track exactly the ounces of liquid added. Barring an extremely HOT room temp changes of about .002 in an SG reading are about all you are going to see.


----------



## wineview

jdrum said:


> hear is the next bit to add, thanks to micha for pointing me in this direction,.
> 
> HERE IS THE DIRECTIONS THAT CAME WITH MY HYDROMETER
> 
> TRIPLE SCALE BEER AND WINE HYDROMETER, 60 DEGREE F
> 
> RANGES SPECIFIC GRAVITY 0.990 TO 1.170
> BALLING OR BRIX 0 TO 38% SUGAR BY WEIGHT
> POTENTIAL ALCOHOL BY VOLUME 0 TO 20%
> 
> A hydrometer measures the weight of a liquid in relation to water, the weight of water on a SPECIFIC GRAVITY scale is expressed as 1.000.
> As you add sugar or other soluble solids, the numbers will increase, i.e. 1.010 to 1.020 up to 1.100 and more.
> 1 cup sugar raises 1 gallon's s.g. by .020 = 1cup raises s.g. from 1.050 to 1.070
> 5 cups raises 5 gallons' s.g. by .020 = 5 cups raises.g. from 1.040 to1.060
> 
> The BALLING or BRIX scale tells you the percentage of sugar by weight.
> 1 cup sugar raises 5 gallons liquid aproximately 1 degree Brix
> 
> The ALCOHOL scale is actually the potential alcohol.
> ( Just reading the scale will tell you about how much alcohol you can expect from a batch of wine if the must ferments to dry or below 0%. this gives you a ballpark figure to work with. there are to many varables to predict just the exzact amount of alcohol a batch of must will produce, but if everything goes right, it should be close
> 
> In order to determine the alcohol content in wine, you need to take two readings.
> the first reading is taken before fermentation (before you pitch the yeast).
> the second reading is taken after all fermentation has stopped.
> Subtract the second reading from the first reading and the result is the potential alcohol
> 
> FOR EXAMPLE
> 1ST READING 12% ( = 1.090 SG)
> 2ND READING 0% ( = 1.000 SG)
> ____________________
> POTENTIAL ABV 12%
> 
> OR
> 
> 1ST READING 13% (=1.098 SG)
> 2ND READING 1% (=1.008 SG)
> POTENTIAL ABV 12%
> 
> 
> TO USE YOUR HYDROMETER:
> Put a sample of your must or wine in a hydrometer jar, (or any slim vessel as deep as the hydrometer is tall, and you can see through, many of us just float it in the primary fermenter bucket. i started out using the plastic tube the hydrometer came in.)
> then give the hydrometer a spin to dislodge any bubbles .
> Then at eye level read the numbers where the liquid cross the stem of the hydrometer.
> this figure will tell you how much sugar is in your must and the potential abv.
> with these figures you can adjust the sugar according to the style wine you wish to produce.
> 
> ( YOU WILL ADD SUGAR OR HONEY TO RAISE THE THE POTENTIAL ABV . )
> 
> TEMERATURE CORRECTIONS:
> This hydrometer gives accurate readings when the temp of the liquid is at 60 degrees.
> The following tables show how to correct for temp variations,
> 
> TEMP. DEGREES F. SPEC. GRAV. CORRECTION
> 50............................... SUBTRACT 1/2 EXAMPLE
> 60.................................................... 0 TEMP OF MUST IS 84
> 70.............................. ADD............ 1 SP GRAV. IS 1.100
> 77.............................. ADD ........... 2 CORRECTION FIG IS... .003
> 84.............................. ADD............ 3 CORRECTED SG IS.... 1.103
> 95.............................. ADD............ 5
> 
> THE ABOVE TABLES ARE NOT REALLY NESSESARY AS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE FINAL RESULTS DOSE NOT AMOUNT TO MUCH.
> 
> 
> ( THESE NOTES ARE A C/P FROM ANOTHER POST ON ANOTHER FORUM)
> 
> These are notes I've written in the back of my Wine Log Book over the years. They're not all exact, but close enough for my use in winemaking. I've gathered them here and there and thought I'd share them. Maybe they'll help someone figure out a batch of wine. Be sure and double check before taking my word for it, in case I'm wrong or make a typing mistake. I know for many of you this will be stuff you already know, but it helped me to have it written in the back of my book. Hope it helps someone else!
> 
> SUGAR NOTES
> 
> 2 oz. (4 TBSP) sugar raises 1 gallon's s.g. by .005
> 1 cup sugar raises 1 gallon's s.g. by .020
> 5 cups raises 5 gallons' s.g. by .020
> 4# sugar = 9.44 cups
> 1# sugar = 2.36 cups
> 5# sugar = 11.8 cups
> 10# sugar = 23.6 cups
> 1# sugar in 5 gallons liquid will raise Potential Alcohol 1%
> 
> 
> Sweetness:
> 1# sugar = 3 cups corn sugar
> 4# sugar = 5# honey
> 3# sugar = 5# raisins
> 1# sugar = 20 oz. grape concentrate
> 
> Using BRIX, % Sugar:
> 1 cup sugar raises 5 gallons liquid aproximately 1 degree Brix
> 
> jim


----------



## KAndr97

Anybody have any tips for inconsistent readings? I started a banana wine yesterday that gave me two wildly different numbers. Drawing from the bottom of the must gave me 1.140 while drawing from the top gave me 1.090. Is this just banana goop that's settled to the bottom? It was noticeably viscous and had some visible particles suspended in it.

I'm using a nylon straining bag and I added pectolase with my k-meta a day before innoculating. I stirred the must about a minute or so before I took the reading. Only as much sugar as most recipes call for was added - roughly 2lbs for a gallon of wine, thoroughly dissolved in two quarts of hot water. The bananas were also frozen for 36 hours prior to processing.


----------



## StToddy

Suggestion: If you can afford it, buy a TILT wireless hydrometer. You calibrate it in distilled water and drop it into your batch. It takes regular temperature corrected readings and lets you instantly read your specific gravity and temperature on your smart phone or iPad.


----------



## barryjo

KAndr97 said:


> Anybody have any tips for inconsistent readings? I started a banana wine yesterday that gave me two wildly different numbers. Drawing from the bottom of the must gave me 1.140 while drawing from the top gave me 1.090. Is this just banana goop that's settled to the bottom? It was noticeably viscous and had some visible particles suspended in it.
> 
> I'm using a nylon straining bag and I added pectolase with my k-meta a day before innoculating. I stirred the must about a minute or so before I took the reading. Only as much sugar as most recipes call for was added - roughly 2lbs for a gallon of wine, thoroughly dissolved in two quarts of hot water. The bananas were also frozen for 36 hours prior to processing.



First off, solids do not affect the SG. Only dissolved elements will. And while you stirred for a minute, it sounds like as though there was still some unmixed sugar water in the bottom. Remember, stirring around and around takes a while to thoroughly mix the must. I jury rigged a stir paddle with a rectangular plate at the bottom. Ten seconds of up and down pretty well gets things mixed. Just a thought.


----------



## sour_grapes

barryjo said:


> First off, solids do not affect the SG. Only dissolved elements will.



Any _suspended_ solids do, in fact, affect the SG.


----------



## barryjo

I could have been more specific. Dissolved solids (sugars, etc) do affect SG. Suspended solids (yeast,etc) may affect SG. There would be a slight change when the suspended solids settle out. Solid solids wouldn't affect the SG.


----------



## bstnh1

StToddy said:


> Suggestion: If you can afford it, buy a TILT wireless hydrometer. You calibrate it in distilled water and drop it into your batch. It takes regular temperature corrected readings and lets you instantly read your specific gravity and temperature on your smart phone or iPad.



$135???


Radek said:


> *how to use hydrometer ( sugar meter )*
> 
> 1) how to use hydrometer ( sugar meter ) - here
> 2) how to use alcohol meter - here
> 
> 
> 
> Reading the Hydrometer:
> 
> This reading is an indication of how sweet/dry the wine is.A hydrometer is vital for consistent results in wine making and brewing. A hydrometer will show a high figure at the start of the fermentation and a low figure when the fermentation is finished. It gives a useful indication of the progress of the fermentation. To check that the liquid is fermenting, the SG reading must indicate a lower figure than the previous reading. A reading of SG 1.000 or lower for more than two days indicates that fermentation is at an end.The hydrometer should read SG 1.000 in tap water at 20ºC (68°F). The deviation may amount to 3 units of calibration above or below 1.000. Test the hydrometer and allow for the discrepancy, if any, when testing/measuring the liquid.
> 
> To use:
> 
> Always sterilize hydrometer and trial jar before use. Do not place in hot water, it may break.
> 
> Put sample of liquid to be tested into a trial jar. Lower hydrometer carefully into liquid, spin or shake to remove bubbles sticking to stem. If liquid is still fermenting, bubbles on the hydrometer may cause there ading to be incorrect, in this case remove the hydrometer and shake the sample to remove as much gas as possible. NOTE: TO CONVERT GRAVITY INTO BALLINGS PLEASE USE TABLE
> 
> When the hydrometer is steady in the liquid take the SG reading from where the surface of the liquid meets the stem at eye level. After use, rinse the hydrometer and wipedry.
> 
> Always take a reading of the liquid before adding yeast and fermentation starts. With kit wines it is convenient to take a reading after sugar (if any) has been added. It is best to dissolve sugar before adding, with country or fruit wines take a reading before adding sugar in order to calculate the correct amount of sugar to add.
> 
> Beer makers use the hydrometer in the same manner as for wine making, but can use the SG 1.005 point to check when the beer is ready for bottling.
> 
> The hydrometer "reads" the thickness of the liquid, if a lot of fruit is used and grain also is added this will increase the reading, the reading can be used in conjunction with a taste of the sample of liquid being tested.
> 
> To calculate the final strength of the wine, write down(omitting the decimal point) the SG
> 
> At the start of the ferment (i.e. after the sugar was added).Subtract from it the final SG, and divide the answer by 7.36; that is the percentage of alcohol by volume of your wine. Multiply that by 7 and divide by4 and it will give you the strength as proof spirit.
> 
> Starting SG – Final SG ÷7.36 = % Alcohol by volume then
> 
> % Alcohol by volume x 7 ÷ 4 = Strength as proof spirit




Starting SG minus final SG; multiply answer by 131.25.


----------



## barryjo

Smart phone?????????


----------



## bstnh1

When my wine is finished, whether it's 12.3%, 12.7% or 13.1 % ABV really doesn't matter to me. It sure doesn't matter enough for me to invest over $100 in a hydrometer.


----------



## barryjo

Personally , if I should happen to forget to take a beginning SG check, I revert to the Honneyman method at Fermcalc. As the saying goes, close enough for state work. And if I do have both readings, I use my Flip phone calculator. SG - FG X 133. Or 131. Still close enough. As bstnh1 says, no big deal.


----------



## KAndr97

StToddy said:


> Suggestion: If you can afford it, buy a TILT wireless hydrometer. You calibrate it in distilled water and drop it into your batch. It takes regular temperature corrected readings and lets you instantly read your specific gravity and temperature on your smart phone or iPad.


Holy heck, that's more expensive than almost all of my equipment put together. It's a cool concept, definitely something I'd buy if I was a professional or had a money tree in my backyard.


----------



## SethF

Curious why so many in this forum appear to prefer the SG scale over Brix?

Professional winemakers tend to speak in Brix, as far as I can tell.

Thanks
Seth


----------



## cmason1957

SethF said:


> Curious why so many in this forum appear to prefer the SG scale over Brix?
> 
> Professional winemakers tend to speak in Brix, as far as I can tell.
> 
> Thanks
> Seth


I think it had to do with the ease to determine the Potential Alcohol given the Brix. As in 22 Brix gives about 11% abv. Slight higher, I think the factor is 0.555 not 0.5 (which gives about 12.1%abv), but close enough. Most (maybe I should say many) start with kids, which tell you the expected sg is 1.090 or so. Either works.


----------



## Newine

SethF said:


> Curious why so many in this forum appear to prefer the SG scale over Brix?
> 
> Professional winemakers tend to speak in Brix, as far as I can tell.
> 
> Thanks
> Seth


Refractometer gives you a quick brix while checking juice or must prior to fermentation, but will not be accurate after fermentation starts, alcohol throws it off. So using a hydometer to measure starting and finishing SG is needed for accuracy.


----------



## SethF

Newine said:


> Refractometer gives you a quick brix while checking juice or must prior to fermentation, but will not be accurate after fermentation starts, alcohol throws it off. So using a hydometer to measure starting and finishing SG is needed for accuracy.


 thank you, I'm very much aware of the limitations of a refractometer. Most hydrometers have both the specific gravity as well as Brix scale.


----------



## heatherd

bstnh1 said:


> When my wine is finished, whether it's 12.3%, 12.7% or 13.1 % ABV really doesn't matter to me. It sure doesn't matter enough for me to invest over $100 in a hydrometer.


Hydrometers are not $100. They're $8-10 bucks and essential to have. http://www.keystonehomebrew.com/shop/hydrometer-3-scale.html


----------



## bstnh1

heatherd said:


> Hydrometers are not $100. They're $8-10 bucks and essential to have. http://www.keystonehomebrew.com/shop/hydrometer-3-scale.html



I was referring to the post that recommended a TILT wireless hydrometer that runs about $135.


----------



## barryjo

sour_grapes said:


> Any _suspended_ solids do, in fact, affect the SG.



But if I were to place a neutrally buoyant marble into the solution, would that affect the SG?


----------



## sour_grapes

barryjo said:


> But if I were to place a neutrally buoyant marble into the solution, would that affect the SG?



No, it would not. (I assume by "neutrally buoyant," you mean that the marble has a SG that matches the SG of the solution?)


----------



## Ajmassa

“Suspended solids” that come in contact with the hydrometer , even bubbles, will affect the reading, like skins and seeds. 
At least that’s what I read this to mean initially.


----------



## sour_grapes

I was speaking about a liquid that has solid particles in suspension. In my example, these solid particles could be denser than the liquid. They will eventually settle out, but may not fall out of suspension quickly. (Think muddy water, for example.)

In this case, even though the particles are not dissolved, they _do_ raise the density of the liquid. Look at it this way: If you want to insert a hydrometer into this liquid, you will need to raise the average height of some of the liquid and suspended solids. This will cost energy that depends on the density of the liquid, irrespective of whether the particles are dissolved or merely suspended. Further, it does not matter if said particles touch the hydrometer or not.

Here is a useful Wiki page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suspension_(chemistry)


----------



## Gerry Congleton

I'm trying a 1 gal. kit of Pinot Grigio.
I'm hoping I didn't measure the first SG correctly, I recorded it as 1.020. I started a 1 gal. kit for my first attempt and I am 6 days in.
Could this SG measurement be correct? If so, what will the wine probably taste like?
Thanks for any comments.


----------



## sour_grapes

Gerry Congleton said:


> I'm trying a 1 gal. kit of Pinot Grigio.
> I'm hoping I didn't measure the first SG correctly, I recorded it as 1.020. I started a 1 gal. kit for my first attempt and I am 6 days in.
> Could this SG measurement be correct? If so, what will the wine probably taste like?
> Thanks for any comments.



That does seem exceedingly low. Take a look at this video and see if it jibes with your measurement technique:


----------



## Ste

Hi, i've just started my 1st wine kit and have a few basic questions about the Hydrometre. 

Do you put the sample back, drink it, or chuck it?
I'm a few days into the 2nd fermenting stage and havent taken a sample yet, do i take my 1st reading now or is it to late?

Thanks
Ste


----------



## barryjo

If you are making a small batch and have sanitized the equipment, put the wine back.You might take a sip and see how things are progressing. Since this is your first (of many!) attempts, consider that baseline information. Otherwise, pitch it.


----------



## Ste

Thanks for the reply.

Yes its 4.5 litres, so not huge. What about the base reading, is now the right time to do that? Or is it to late?
Thanks
Ste


----------



## Johnd

Ste said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Yes its 4.5 litres, so not huge. What about the base reading, is now the right time to do that? Or is it to late?
> Thanks
> Ste



Probably too late. You want to get a reading before you add your yeast, so you know what SG you are starting at. That reading, in conjunction with the reading when you are finished allows you to determine how much alcohol you have produced. Readings during fermentation allow you to monitor your progress.


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## Ste

Ok, thanks for that, i thought that might be the case from what I had read on here. Is there any benefit to using the hydrometer at this stage then if i dont have the initial reading?

Thanks
Ste


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## cmason1957

Absolutely, there is a reason to use a hydrometer. When the reading stays the same for about three days in a row, then the fermentation is done. Don't trust counting bubbles in your airlock or any other method, use the tool.


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## Johnd

cmason1957 said:


> Absolutely, there is a reason to use a hydrometer. When the reading stays the same for about three days in a row, then the fermentation is done. Don't trust counting bubbles in your airlock or any other method, use the tool.



I'll add on to what @cmason1957 said. In addition to the same reading three days in a row, it should be below 1.000 for three days in a row to be finished. For instance, if you get .997 or lower, three days in a row, you're done. If you get 1.014 three days in a row, you have a stuck fermentation, as there is still sugar to be consumed.

The hydrometer, in addition to helping you calculate your final alcohol content, allows you to monitor your progress towards completion, helps you time racking and pressing, and generally lets you know when you're fermentation is on or off track.


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## sour_grapes

I always return the sample to the batch. (I do sanitize the test cylinder and hydrometer each time.)


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## G259

You need to take the SG before you pitch the yeast, this lets you know how much sugar is in your must. To calculate the ending alcohol % as well. There are several apps out there to do this for you, like winecalc and fermcalc.


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## Lexas

Hello. Just started my very first wine. I got some hydrometer reading before i put yeast, but not sure, is it good or not. Do I get anything drinkable? I made 2 different taste, from fruits. Interesting, that one is bubbling steady, bubble every 2 seconds, another is going crazy like tractor. Any thoughts please


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## mainshipfred

The 1.080 will get you about 11% ABV and the 1.100 about 13.75 ABV. But that is all the hydrometer is going to tell you at this time. The final wine is a product of the recipe and post fermentation additions.


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## Lexas

mainshipfred said:


> The 1.080 will get you about 11% ABV and the 1.100 about 13.75 ABV. But that is all the hydrometer is going to tell you at this time. The final wine is a product of the recipe and post fermentation additions.


And how do I know, when fermentation is finished, what hydrometer should show?


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## mainshipfred

Lexas said:


> And how do I know, when fermentation is finished, what hydrometer should show?



When I gave you those numbers I was using .995. What people say is it's done when the hydrometer reads the same for 3 days. I don't worry about it since mine age for 10-12 months but being your first batch I'm sure you will want to bottle it.


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## Lexas

I read somewhere that I cant give contact with air while its fermenting. But to take sample for hydrometer read, I need to open anyway. What is best way to do that, not to contaminate wine. Or its myth an i can open when i need?


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## crabjoe

Lexas said:


> I read somewhere that I cant give contact with air while its fermenting. But to take sample for hydrometer read, I need to open anyway. What is best way to do that, not to contaminate wine. Or its myth an i can open when i need?



What you heard is incorrect for the most part. 

During primary fermentation, especially in the beginning, you want oxygen exposure to help the yeast. Once fermentation is ended, or near ended is when you want to keep oxygen exposure to a minimum.

That's the easy short answer.

BTW, during primary fermentation, at times, I'll leave my hydrometer in the bucket. That way, I just lift up the towel I use to keep bugs out and read. No need to keep filling a cylinder to check the gravity.


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## Lexas

I was reading a lot before start make wine, but looks like i was reading in wrong place and started from second fermentation straight away ( pipe in jar with water from beginning)...


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## Johnd

Lexas said:


> I was reading a lot before start make wine, but looks like i was reading in wrong place and started from second fermentation straight away ( pipe in jar with water from beginning)...



You weren’t necessarily in the wrong place, it’s done both ways. Yeast does need a little O2 early in the process to aid with speedy reproduction, after that, not so much. Despite that, once fermentation starts, you can airlock your vessel or not, personal preference. 

With white wines, I lock em up tight, reds are simply covered with a towel for easy access to the must for punch downs and measurements. During active fermentation, there is plenty CO2 being produced, and your wine will be saturated with it, protecting it well from any minor exposure you may provide as you measure. 

As far as the best way, you get to decide that too!! With a must that doesn’t have any solids in it, you can simply put your sanitized hydrometer in there for a reading. If you do have solids, they can affect the readings, so you’ll be wise to extract some wine to measure in a sanitized container, and return the wine.


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## Lexas

Thank you very much for info. I'll finish this anyway and then start new. Just in Ireland hard to find fresh grape juice or even concentrate. That why was doing from other fruits.


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## RichardC

Hi all. I started a second batch of hand crushed, frozen banana (8lbs), 1.5-2 gallons water, 3 lbs sugar, and 2lbs blended Sultanas ( not paste but, kinda mushy,) and the must is like oatmeal. Can a proper hydrometer reading be taken with that consistency? 

I added 2 full TSP pectic enzymes to the roughly 3 gallons must and after 24 hrs, there was no clear liquid to use, so I pitched the yeast anyway. 

( I guesstimate that adding 3-4lbs more sugar syrup will give +16% ABV.)

Do you ever have mush must and how accurate are hydrometer readings?


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## G259

Richard, I would add another 2 Tsp. if it was that thick (maybe 3!) Pectic isn't going to hurt it, it will just drop out unused.

Hydrometer reading will be off, if not impossible, suggest relying at first on Fermcalc initially, when you get mostly liquid, 
a hydrometer will work.


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## RichardC

I added another TSP pectic enzyme and another sprinkle of amylase. This no-boil batch is fermenting very slowly. Ugh


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## G259

I often have (what I suspect) is sugar settling, that has not been completely dissolved. This would account for your differing readings. Just make sure you stir before you take a reading.


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## FermentoSapiens

Most kits have a starting sg at 1080 or 1090. Good stiring is needed to get a goog starting sg reading. If you use an f-pack or extra berries be shure they have extracted the sugar if you want to know the right sg.


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## wineforme

hey everyone I'm new to this thread and wine making lol. I have started trying to grow grapes and they are coming along okay (at least I think).. but I stubbled upon this book the other day when I was searching for books to help newbies like me make their own wine. it is a very helpful book for the people like me that are trying to make wine for the first time. I will leave a link incase anyone wants to look at the book to get some help and maybe some tips like I did. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1...72091&linkId=9d50bb54f632f4964f6267e30d6b0a75


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## sour_grapes

wineforme said:


> hey everyone I'm new to this thread and wine making lol. I have started trying to grow grapes and they are coming along okay (at least I think).. but I stubbled upon this book the other day when I was searching for books to help newbies like me make their own wine. it is a very helpful book for the people like me that are trying to make wine for the first time. I will leave a link incase anyone wants to look at the book to get some help and maybe some tips like I did. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1...72091&linkId=9d50bb54f632f4964f6267e30d6b0a75



Welcome. You may consider starting a thread to introduce yourself in the "Introductions" forum (Introductions). FWIW, most people are wary of a first-time poster who posts a link in their first thread. However, since your link is to a winemaking book from the year 2000, I judge that you had no mal-intent!


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## RickD

I've been using "Hydrometer Chart for American Readers" to calculate %ABV by simply subtracting the finish %ABV from the starting %ABV. This method however breaks down at SG <1.010 because the Table stops at SG = 1.010.

So, looking for a method that did not use a table, I came to this thread. Here I find two equations:



Radek said:


> Starting SG – Final SG ÷7.36 = % Alcohol by volume then





cpfan said:


> Starting sg 1.110, final sg .992, so %alc is (1.110 - .992) * 133 = .118 * 133 = 15.7%
> 
> Steve



So to summarize from the foregoing, we get:

EQ1: Starting SG - Final SG ÷ 7.36 = %ABV [NO PARENTHESES]

EQ2: (Starting SG - Final SG) * 133 =%ABV

Let's assume the following:

Starting SG: 1.110
Finish SG: 0.992

Using EQ1: 1.110 - 0.992 ÷ 7.36 = 1.110 - (0.992 ÷ 7.36) = 1.110 - 0.1348 = 0.9752

Using EQ2: (1.110 - .992) * 133 = .118 * 133 = 15.7%

Can someone help me understand why I don't get a realistic answer using EQ1 ? I'm sure I'm doing something wrong.

Or, maybe EQ1 should be something like shown here: Calculate alcohol in wine, beer or moonshine wash (hambletonbard.com)


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## sour_grapes

It is because Eqn. 1 is flat out wrong. You NEED the parentheses. Also, note that your two equations differ by a factor of 100, that is, one expresses 20% as 20, and the other as 0.200. You can see that 1/7.36 = 1.35 (which is close to 133/100).


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## Cherry Puffling

How do I write this number? (Where the yellow mark is)


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## mainshipfred

Cherry Puffling said:


> How do I write this number? (Where the yellow mark is)View attachment 76192


.994, I'd say you are done.


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## Cherry Puffling

Thank you, I thought it was 0.994 but I was not sure, my hydrometer doesn't look like the others I've seen here...and yes it's most certainly done, I just stabilised and degassed and am using finings  I just want to calculate my final abv.


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## Scooter68

Your thread will be better seen if you copy it and put it on the section for 

*Tutorials, Calculators, Wine Logs & Yeast Charts 






Tutorials, Calculators, Wine Logs & Yeast Charts


Step By Step How To's, reference guides and terminology guides.



www.winemakingtalk.com




*


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## Scooter68

Cherry Puffling said:


> Thank you, I thought it was 0.994 but I was not sure, my hydrometer doesn't look like the others I've seen here...and yes it's most certainly done, I just stabilised and degassed and am using finings  I just want to calculate my final abv.




Easiest way I've found is this link. You just enter your starting and ending SG and it will provide the ABV number for you no manual math.

*








Alcohol By Volume ABV Calculator | Brewer's Friend


Use our ABV Calculator to show alcohol by volume based on gravity change & eliminate the guess work. Sign up for a free Brewer's Friend account & get brewing!




www.brewersfriend.com




*


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## Cherry Puffling

I don't mind the math, that's the easy bit  I was just struggling a bit with understanding how to write that number. It's all sorted now.


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## E Riehle

I started a 5 gallon rhubarb wine a couple years ago, racked twice, then left for +/- a couple years--I've been busy and just left the carboy in a dark cellar closet for what seems ever. I found it today and having forgot everything I actually didn't know when I started this batch, we did a final rack & started bottling.



The taste test was ridiculous good. No sweetening, a nice dry unassuming flavor with only hints of the rhubarb it was made of. But it snuck up on me--This stuff is potent!!

So out of curiosity I did the hydrometer thing. I'm terrible with meters. Is this reading normal? It was room temp, around 70 F.



My phone had trouble focusing before the hydrometer would tip to the edge, but where it reads on the other side is the same as when it's floating freely in the middle. Can I assume I'm at 14% or better? Certainly cannot tell by the taste...


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## bstnh1

E Riehle said:


> I started a 5 gallon rhubarb wine a couple years ago, racked twice, then left for +/- a couple years--I've been busy and just left the carboy in a dark cellar closet for what seems ever. I found it today and having forgot everything I actually didn't know when I started this batch, we did a final rack & started bottling.
> View attachment 80986
> 
> 
> The taste test was ridiculous good. No sweetening, a nice dry unassuming flavor with only hints of the rhubarb it was made of. But it snuck up on me--This stuff is potent!!
> 
> So out of curiosity I did the hydrometer thing. I'm terrible with meters. Is this reading normal? It was room temp, around 70 F.
> View attachment 80987
> 
> 
> My phone had trouble focusing before the hydrometer would tip to the edge, but where it reads on the other side is the same as when it's floating freely in the middle. Can I assume I'm at 14% or better? Certainly cannot tell by the taste...


What was your starting SG?


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## Bossbaby

Do you remember what the numbers were on the hydrometer b4 you added the yeast? That is going to be your best bet in determining alcohol content. right now it reads basically zero meaning all of the sugar has been eaten up.


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## E Riehle

bstnh1 said:


> What was your starting SG?





Bossbaby said:


> Do you remember what the numbers were on the hydrometer b4 you added the yeast? That is going to be your best bet in determining alcohol content. right now it reads basically zero meaning all of the sugar has been eaten up.



I guess it was moot to ask. This batch was started in 2019, then neglected in the carboy after the first (or 2nd?) rack, and we're moving in a couple weeks, so the paperwork is in the wind of totes and boxes strewn about the house. I do know that it had to be around 1.100, because I remember it being close to my first attempt with chokecherries earlier that year.






First Batch Noob, Asking the Obvious (Wild Fruit)


Hey all. I started a chokecherry batch a few days ago, had a few issues that were handled in the Introductions Forum, but I don't want to post all my trials and tribulations there, so I'm asking my standard dumb questions here where the topic belongs...;) My first SG was, uh....high, 1.150. So...




www.winemakingtalk.com





Best I can do, sorry...


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## sour_grapes

So, the bad news is that you will not be able to tell the ABV without that starting SG number (short of sending it to a lab for analysis). The good news is that it doesn't much matter, and, yes, your guesstimate of ~14% or a little more is probably accurate.


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## E Riehle

Yeah, thanks. My wife & I both caught an immediate buzz, and no, we aren't exactly cheap dates


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## balatonwine

sour_grapes said:


> you will not be able to tell the ABV without that starting SG number (short of sending it to a lab for analysis).



There are special purpose, lower range, 0 to 20+ proof certified and accredited alcohol hydrometers that can be used for wine and one can buy. But they are expensive (~$100).


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## sour_grapes

balatonwine said:


> There are special purpose, lower range, 0 to 20+ proof certified and accredited alcohol hydrometers that can be used for wine and one can buy. But they are expensive (~$100).



That would give you an accurate and precise measure of the SG. But what about the effect of solutes (i.e., TDS)? To translate from a single value of SG to an ABV, you need to make assumptions about TDS, don't you?


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## balatonwine

sour_grapes said:


> That would give you an accurate and precise measure of the SG. But what about the effect of solutes (i.e., TDS)? To translate from a single value of SG to an ABV, you need to make assumptions about TDS, don't you?



They measure ABV directly. Not SG. Post fermentation/distillation. Can be used in beer, wine and distillery measurements (most accurate when used in the later, but still within tolerance in most other applications).

They are so expensive because they are certified under a host of US rules and regulations regulating ABV reporting. Not your simple "Amazon" SG bought hydrometer made in China. For example:









SP Bel-Art, H-B DURAC 20/40 Percent Alcohol Proof – Ethyl Alcohol Hydrometer


H-B Instruments Alcohol Proof - Ethyl Alcohol HydrometerFor determining proof of ethyl alcohol spirits. Made according to the Bureau of Internal Revenue, US Treasury Department. The tolerances listed for these hydrometers are those outlined in Circular 555 of the National Bureau of Standards...




www.novatech-usa.com


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## sour_grapes

balatonwine said:


> They measure ABV directly. Not SG.



WADR, I do not believe that this is correct. If you follow the link you included, it indicates that those hydrometers are for "determining proof of ethyl alcohol spirits." The definition of ethyl alcohol spirit is a mixture of pure water and pure ethanol.

The link you provide indicates that the hydrometers are calibrated under the specifications of Circular 555 National Bureau of Standards for Testing of Hydrometers, which may be found here: https://nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/Legacy/circ/nbscircular555.pdf

In that document, we read 


> 3.1. Alcoholometers
> Alcoholometers may be graduated to indicate the percentage of ethyl alcohol, either by weight or by volume, in mixtures of ethyl alcohol and water, or they may be graduated to indicate percentages of “proof spirit” as defined by the Bureau Internal Revenue, United States Treasury Department.[1]
> 
> [1]“Proof spirit” is that alcoholic liquor that contains one-half of its volume
> of pure ethyl alcohol of a specific gravity of 0.7939 at 60° F, referred to water
> at 60° F as unity. “Gauging Manual,” p. 7. 1938, U. S. Treasury Dept.,
> Bureau of Internal Revenue. (The percentage of proof spirit is in every case
> twice the percentage of ethyl alcohol by volume at 60°F.)



Put simply, these are hydrometers. They measure specific gravity of solutiuons. They are carefully constructed to be precise and accurate. They do not _directly_ measure alcohol content of liquids. There is no physical mechanisim for a floating glass tube to directly measure alcohol in a solution.


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## balatonwine

sour_grapes said:


> WADR, I do not believe that this is correct.



I was referring to the units on the hydrometer. Not what physical properties were actually causing that measurement. And so I was indicating one needed really no "translation" from SG.

Hydrometers also come in other units of measure for the convenience of the reading being made. Such as Balling, Brix, Plato, Oechse, etc. Despite really all measuring pretty much the same thing. My hydrometer actually use the *Klosterneuburger Zuckergrade* which you probably never heard of.

I also stated that these were indeed designed for spirits, but could be used for wine "within tolerance**" for home wine makers (i.e. they will not be as exact .. but will give a very good ABV estimate without having to go to a lab).

Hope this helps.

** From: TTBGov - Wine Labeling: Alcohol Content

Alcohol content may be stated as a specific percentage with a tolerance of:

Plus or minus 1 percentage point for wines containing over 14% alcohol by volume;
*Example*: A wine is labeled with the alcohol content statement “18% ALC. BY VOL.” Provided the actual alcohol content does not exceed 19% or fall below 17%, the label alcohol content statement “18% ALC. BY VOL.” is permissible.

Plus or minus 1.5 percentage points for wines containing 14% or less alcohol by volume;
*Example*: A wine is labeled with the alcohol content statement “12% ALC. BY VOL.” Provided the actual alcohol content does not exceed 13.5% or fall below 10.5%, the label alcohol content statement “12% ALC. BY VOL.” is permissible.


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## FlowerLabny

Thank you...this tutorial helped out a lot.


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## Jonboy6692.ja

jdrum said:


> ok i want to start a thread on how to use and under stand a hydrometer.
> as a relitive newbie, i look at the problem with a different perspective than the more experienced, when i got my first hydrometer, i didn't know crap about it
> so i read the directions, and tutoriels, some were good and some were confusing
> 
> so this will be a work in process, and i welcome ANY constructive critisim to improve the topic.
> View attachment 3211
> 
> this is a start, looking at the sg scale. i plan to do another pic relating the other scales as i have time
> View attachment 3233
> 
> update
> 
> jim


A hydrometer should show your potential alcohol content. I adjust sugar to equal about 12.5 % alcohol.


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## Shanghai Wine Maker

All, as someone who is scientifically and mathematically minded I have found the whole hydrometer business incredibly confusing - how can one measurement tell me both sugar and alcohol content and why should SG from before fermentation tell me anything about how much alcohol I have now? Just mindlessly looking up numbers in charts doesn't do it for me.

At this point I think I understand it. I would like to confirm.

Before you start fermentation you have no alcohol in the juice. Therefore, when you measure SG you can determine the amount of sugar in the juice.
Presumably other solids and dissolved substances that effect SG are negligible
But I'm trying an apple wine, and my mashed apples started as mush, not liquid. Measuring SG with a hydrometer was impossible.

As sugar turns into alcohol the SG changes because SG from 1% sugar in liquid is different from SG from the alcohol that the 1% alchohol converts to.
Therefore, we can caclulate alcohol content based on current SG and original sugar content (ie. SG)
Assumes that other substances in the juice that affect SG are either unchanged or negligible.


Do I understand this correctly?


----------



## Shanghai Wine Maker

BTW, I bought this device - 淘宝网 - 淘！我喜欢 (watch the video, ignore the Chinese) which is supposed to measure alcohol content. Cost including shipping just USD 2.00 so why not try it?'

Based on the video, you drop some wine in the cup at the top, wait for it to flow out the hole at the bottom, then turn it upside down. You can then read the alcohol percentage from the final line that the wine goes up to.

Does anyone know:

What is it? Obviously not a hydrometer.
Does it work?
Is it measuring SG, viscosity, or something else?
Will it also measure sugar content before fermentation if I work out conversion scale?


----------



## barryjo

Shanghai Wine Maker said:


> All, as someone who is scientifically and mathematically minded I have found the whole hydrometer business incredibly confusing - how can one measurement tell me both sugar and alcohol content and why should SG from before fermentation tell me anything about how much alcohol I have now? Just mindlessly looking up numbers in charts doesn't do it for me.
> 
> At this point I think I understand it. I would like to confirm.
> 
> Before you start fermentation you have no alcohol in the juice. Therefore, when you measure SG you can determine the amount of sugar in the juice.
> Presumably other solids and dissolved substances that effect SG are negligible
> But I'm trying an apple wine, and my mashed apples started as mush, not liquid. Measuring SG with a hydrometer was impossible.
> 
> As sugar turns into alcohol the SG changes because SG from 1% sugar in liquid is different from SG from the alcohol that the 1% alchohol converts to.
> Therefore, we can caclulate alcohol content based on current SG and original sugar content (ie. SG)
> Assumes that other substances in the juice that affect SG are either unchanged or negligible.
> 
> 
> Do I understand this correctly?


One small item. If a substance is dissolved in liquid, it will affact SG. For example, sugar, salt, any number of chemicals. I guess technically, if a substance can settle out, it is not dissolved. As for alcohol calculation, Subtracting final gravity from starting gravity times 131.5 will equal alcohol by volume (ABV). Much less expensive than an ebulliometer.


----------



## Jonboy6692.ja

Shanghai Wine Maker said:


> All, as someone who is scientifically and mathematically minded I have found the whole hydrometer business incredibly confusing - how can one measurement tell me both sugar and alcohol content and why should SG from before fermentation tell me anything about how much alcohol I have now? Just mindlessly looking up numbers in charts doesn't do it for me.
> 
> At this point I think I understand it. I would like to confirm.
> 
> Before you start fermentation you have no alcohol in the juice. Therefore, when you measure SG you can determine the amount of sugar in the juice.
> Presumably other solids and dissolved substances that effect SG are negligible
> But I'm trying an apple wine, and my mashed apples started as mush, not liquid. Measuring SG with a hydrometer was impossible.
> 
> As sugar turns into alcohol the SG changes because SG from 1% sugar in liquid is different from SG from the alcohol that the 1% alchohol converts to.
> Therefore, we can caclulate alcohol content based on current SG and original sugar content (ie. SG)
> Assumes that other substances in the juice that affect SG are either unchanged or negligible.
> 
> 
> Do I understand this correctly?


The SG reading is potential 
alcohol. What might be expected if all the sugar ferments to dryness.


----------



## winemaker81

Shanghai Wine Maker said:


> how can one measurement tell me both sugar and alcohol content and why should SG from before fermentation tell me anything about how much alcohol I have now?


One measurement doesn't -- it's several measurements combined with an understanding of the changes in SG as yeast eats sugar and pees alcohol.

Regarding wine, the other constituents are considered negligible.

The amount of alcohol produced is not a linear curve -- there's actually several equations that _approximate_ the amount of alcohol, and which equation to use depends on the actual amount of alcohol. Yes, the actual result determines which equation to use. The change in SG during fermentation is not a simple curve -- it's affected by the loss of sugar (heavier than water) and production of alcohol (lighter than water).

I suggest you simply accept that it works and don't overthink it.

The object in your second post is a vinometer. They are commonly regarded as junk and AFAIK, it doesn't really work. If you put anything with sugar in it, you'll gum it up and throw it out.


----------



## barryjo

Shanghai Wine Maker said:


> BTW, I bought this device - 淘宝网 - 淘！我喜欢 (watch the video, ignore the Chinese) which is supposed to measure alcohol content. Cost including shipping just USD 2.00 so why not try it?'
> 
> Based on the video, you drop some wine in the cup at the top, wait for it to flow out the hole at the bottom, then turn it upside down. You can then read the alcohol percentage from the final line that the wine goes up to.
> 
> Does anyone know:
> 
> What is it? Obviously not a hydrometer.
> Does it work?
> Is it measuring SG, viscosity, or something else?
> Will it also measure sugar content before fermentation if I work out conversion scale?
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 89713


IIRC, this devise is useful only for white wines.


----------



## Jonboy6692.ja

barryjo said:


> One small item. If a substance is dissolved in liquid, it will affact SG. For example, sugar, salt, any number of chemicals. I guess technically, if a substance can settle out, it is not dissolved. As for alcohol calculation, Subtracting final gravity from starting gravity times 131.5 will equal alcohol by volume (ABV). Much less expensive than





barryjo said:


> One small item. If a substance is dissolved in liquid, it will affact SG. For example, sugar, salt, any number of chemicals. I guess technically, if a substance can settle out, it is not dissolved. As for alcohol calculation, Subtracting final gravity from starting gravity times 131.5 will equal alcohol by volume (ABV). Much less expensive than an ebulliometer.


Shoot for about 12 1/2 % alcohol for the average wine, sit back and relax then.


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## Shanghai Wine Maker

barryjo said:


> One small item. If a substance is dissolved in liquid, it will affact SG. For example, sugar, salt, any number of chemicals. I guess technically, if a substance can settle out, it is not dissolved. As for alcohol calculation, Subtracting final gravity from starting gravity times 131.5 will equal alcohol by volume (ABV). Much less expensive than an ebulliometer.


Right. But question is where this 131.5 number comes from. 

It is because the sugar converts into alcohol and that changes SG from the original. Assumption is that all change in SG is due to sugar converting to alcohol.

I actually wonder how likely that is - all the lees that settle out should also make a difference, right?

BTW, why do we measure SG instead of density?


----------



## winemaker81

Shanghai Wine Maker said:


> BTW, why do we measure SG instead of density?


SG is density, well at least the ratio against a known substance, water. Plus the tool used to measure is easy to use and cheap to manufacture. It does the job sufficiently.

The tool measures initial sugar content, works to let the winemaker how far along fermentation is, and when fermentation is done.


----------

