# Vacuum press filter system



## roblloyd (Feb 5, 2011)

I have a VacuPress vacuum press designed for doing veneering work. I would like to adapt it to use for degassing and making a whole house filter system.

What do i need for each step?
I know I need a reservoir to avoid getting wine in my expensive pump. What else and where do i get this stuff? 
I am sure Wade will chime in here and I hope he does.

I also ran into someone I know in town who also makes wine but doesn't have any filter system. I think he said he has a couple 55gal stainless containers so his volume might require something like the whole house filter vs the small plate systems and having to change lots of filters.

Thanks,
Rob


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## Wade E (Feb 5, 2011)

Yo will want a gauge to make sure you are not putting more then around 22" of vacuum on a glass carboy. I have the overflow canisters for sale. You also will want to use a hydrophobic filter before the pump so as not to suck in any moisture into your pump. I also have those. If you need a regulator with gauge I can supply that also as I have 1 or 2 units for parts. Your friend can use a whole house filte but hel need a pump of some sort to do that whether it be a vaccum pump or other to do that. I have a few pumps, one of them being a heavy duty unit if he is interested. I only sell vacuum pumps myself.


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## roblloyd (Feb 5, 2011)

How much are the parts I need? I can pick them up so no shipping is necessary.
My pump will hold 25" and shut off. Its also adjustable so I can drop it down to 22". I can also manually run it and watch the gauge when needed.
I was going to let me friend borrow mine. Not sure if he wants to buy one just yet.

http://www.vacupress.com/products.htm the blue one is the one I have if that will help you with the fittings. I think it's 1/4" brass end. It fits nicely on the bungs. you might even want to borrow it for your staircase building!

Be nice to have another use for this pump!


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## Wade E (Feb 5, 2011)

Not really sure what you need besides the little fiter and overflow canister. Do you have a dble drilled bung as if your racking wine youlll need one of those or a modified carboy cap and you really need to rack into glass to use a vacuum pump. The littl filter without shipping is $7 and the overflow canister is $13.50 and if you need 1 a dble drilled rubber bung is $9. Im guessing you have racking canes and racking hose but if you need any of those and clamps I have them also. Racking cane is $5 and hose is $6 for 8' and clamps are $1.50 each. Let me know exactlywhat you need just to make sure I hold them for you. I dont carry a lot of each on hand due to funds as I just started doing this not long ago


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## roblloyd (Feb 6, 2011)

Save the filter and canister and bung for me. I will pick it up this week. Hopefully Tuesday will work with my client and the weather.

Can't stand chipping ice and shoveling any more. I blew out my back just as I was finishing my walkway this afternoon. Can't bend or lift anything... Chiropractor tomorrow!


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## Wade E (Feb 6, 2011)

I just finished installing the roof cables I bought on Ebay nice and cheap, at least compared to the prices around here lately! I also did both my walkways again as they were frozen solid again from yesterday. I was just on Amazon.com looking around for one more 30' roof cable to go along one small gutter and down my long downspout to keep that free and saw a 3' x 10' electric matt that you lay down on walkways to deice them or keep them from freezing to begin with. 120 volt. Heres a link to a place with them in many sizes, pretty cool, especially for someones whos older or just has a bad back. Mine isnt that bad yet and I cant afford it yet either!
http://www.warmlyyours.com/radiant-...s/portable-snow-melting-mats/heated-walkways/
Ill put those aside for you Rob!


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## Runningwolf (Feb 6, 2011)

Wade can you imagine your electric bill after running those mats for a few weeks. When you turn your roof cables on, leave them on until the snow is gone for the season. I turn mine on after the first snow fall and don't unplug them until there is no chance of any more snow. If you try to turn them on and off when the sun comes out or any other alternate idea, you'll run into issues. Also when you put them down your downspout make sure you run them far enough to go below the ground surface or they'll freeze at the bottom. I was a few feet short the first year and the downspouts froze solid right at the point.


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## Wade E (Feb 7, 2011)

What do you mean by issues with the cables. I would tun them on right before the storm and keep them on until there was nothing left on the roof to cause a problem and shut them off until the next storm was due. I dont want to be having them on when its not needed. Thus heat mats would probably ust be turned on until the area was melted or during a storm.


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## Runningwolf (Feb 7, 2011)

Wade yeah you're right in doing it the way you are. Where I live, usually once you get the first storm there is snow until spring time on the roof. Even going 30 miles south of me the snow fall is reduced drastically.


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