# The tale of two meads - and a question



## brottman (Dec 18, 2014)

I have 2 different meads. 

3 gal - started a month ago
Wyeast 1388
OG 1.1
Stalled at 1.03
Recieved 1/4 tsp Kmeta (I tried to save it first with ec-1118 but didn't budge)

5 gal - started 9 days ago
Started with Wyeast 1388 (with a big starter this time)
OG 1.1
Stalled at 1.03
Re-pitched D47, now down to 1.02 and slowly moving

Question - What would happen if I combined these two batches into something big enough to hold both of them? 
Would the first batch that got the Kmeta stall out the other batch? 
Is there a chance the entire batch could finish to dryness? 
Should I wait until the second batch goes dry and then try combining so that at least I get an FG for the entire batch of something less than 1.03?

I'm thinking that if there is a chance of bringing the combined batches to dryness, I would need to do it while one batch is still active. Any validity to this?

Sorry for all the questions - I know I said there was just 1 

Brian


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## WVMountaineerJack (Dec 19, 2014)

Did you add any nutrients at the start? What temp is your must at? You are putting a little bit to much KM, almost double the amount needed for 3 gal. Have you reached the alcohol limit of your yeast (I dont use this one so dont have experience with it). WVMJ


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## Tenbears (Dec 19, 2014)

It is fairly simple Wyeast 1388 is a beer and ale yeast, which usually have a lower alcohol tolerance, just a guess but since both stopped at 1.030 I would say you reached it's limits. Might I recommend Lalvin 1118 as it has a high tolerance wide temperature range, and restarts ferment well. No real advantage to mixing the batches as 1.030 is 1.030 in 1 to 1000 gallons


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## Arne (Dec 19, 2014)

Try putting your hydrometer in tap water. it should read right at 1.000. Mite be off just a touch for temp. adjustment, but should be close. If it is off you mite have your ferments dry. Just a thought. Arne.


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## RegarRenill (Dec 19, 2014)

Tenbears, 1388 is used in the BOMM recipe from gotmead and HBT. I regularly get 13% ABV from it. It's also pretty forgiving of temps, but it DOES need SNA. Not sure if OP added any nutrients, but that probably would have made the difference. As for continuing the ferment, I'd advise an acclimated starter of EC1118, since it's got that "killer" attribute an is definitely good for the ABV tolerance. Make a 1 cup starter (100* F water, goferm, and the yeast), once it starts fermenting, add 1 cup of your must. If it's still going after an hour or so, add another 2 cups of your must...continue doing so until you get about 2 liters or so, then add it to your main batch. Giving it a dose of DAP and energizer when you add the starter would be prudent, as well. Just my $0.02...


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## brottman (Dec 20, 2014)

Yes this did receive the recommended SNA from the BOOK recipe. When I last left it, it was slowly moving down after having pitched D47 into the Mead. Unfortunately, I now won't be home for another 3 days to see if it finished


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## WVMountaineerJack (Dec 20, 2014)

Which book? WVMJ


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## brottman (Dec 20, 2014)

My phone autocorrect that. It should have said the BOMM recipe that RegarRenill mentioned. It basically uses the Wyeast 1388 yeast as the cornerstone of the recipe.


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## damdaman (Dec 23, 2014)

Hard to say as every batch is different, but I once got a blueberry wine that had stalled and failed to restart dry by mixing it a mead that was almost finished, but still active. The mead yeast eventually ate up all the sugar in the blueberry wine as well and I had a very nice blueberry mead.

If I were you I'd wait till your one that is moving slowly gets down below 1.01 though, that way, even if it doesn't ferment any more, your 1.01 will lower the net fg since you have more of it. If it's "slowly moving" that's fine, it's still going, and those last 20 points can be realllly slow.


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