# stuck corks



## Duster

Why in the Heck do I keep breaking cork screws?
I just bought an electric cork screw and broke it on the first bottle. I have broken countless "wal-mart" openers as well. 
I think I am doing something when bottling that causes my corks to get stuck to the bottle.
Here is what I do.
I Place the corks in a plastic bowl, spray the corks lightly with K-Meta solution and put the lid on the bowl.
Fill the bottles to the top with a bottling wand. remove the wand to leave the correct head space.
Open the bowl and cork the bottles.
the next day I put PVC shrink caps on the bottles with boiling water. 
I use #9 x 1.75" agglomerated corks and a Colonna Corker.
I have two theories, either the wine (sweet wine) is causing the cork to stick fast to the bottle or the K-meta is doing something to the cork causing it to stick fast.
I have noticed that when I grab a bottle that seems stuck I can put it back in the corker and press the cork down into the bottle neck slightly, this seems to break the seal and allows the cork to be removed as normal.

I am willing to switch to a synthetic cork if you guys think it will solve this problem.


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## DirtyDawg10

Weird! I wouldn't think that would happen. I would think the cork would break before the cork screw broke. I actually like to use the waiter's key type cork screw. They are cheap and very effective.


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## Runningwolf

The only corks I ever have troubles with are noma corks. These corks will ruin your electric cork screw. My favorite corkscrew is the waiters corkscrew.


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## Runningwolf

DirtyDawg10 said:


> Weird! I wouldn't think that would happen. I would think the cork would break before the cork screw broke. I actually like to use the waiter's key type cork screw. They are cheap and very effective.


 Why you dirty dawg sneaking in before me.


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## DirtyDawg10

lol...great minds think alike


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## Duster

yes, I like the waters key as well but I have broke 3 of them, 2 the plastic broke out around pin that holds the corkscrew and the other I bent the little kickstand that rest on the bottles edge. 
Is it possible the heat from the boiling water causes the cork to stick?


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## joeswine

*corks stuck in a rut*

Sometimes what happens is THE CORK expands inside the bottle . There is absolutely NO give between the two(INSIDE WALL AND CORK),THEY LAMINATED themselves together ,. So when it comes time to extract THE CORK the only thing you get out IS PART OF THE CORK .AGGLOMERATED WINE CORKS, THIS IS ACORK THAT IS BONDED TOGETHER ALL PARTICLES (OPPOSE THE LAMATED PART ISN'T BONDED WELL)ONLY PARTIAL COMES OUT,. THESE ARE USUALLY RECOMMENDED FOR YOUNG WINES THING TWO YEARS OF BOTTLING,. These are the type we usually use at least most of us do . They're inexpensive they do come in a variety of sizes ,, number nine usually are 1 1/2 inches long or one and three-quarter inches long ,navigation ahead was a short CORKS and for one to five years of aging ,. The inches three-quarter CORKS group for two years of age ,. At least that's the recommendations are using the style CORKS ?

I personally think this is an extension problem with the corks part ,and I have went through many and opener both electric and manual that's all the type cork that I use is the one I stated above ,


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## Runningwolf

Duster said:


> Is it possible the heat from the boiling water causes the cork to stick?


 This is the only thing I see different but never heard of issues with it. Maybe next time use a heat gun on half and water on the other half and see if there is a difference.


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## DirtyDawg10

I use the same corks but I use a heat gun for the capsules. How long would you say the end of the bottle is in the boiling water?


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## Duster

DirtyDawg10 said:


> I use the same corks but I use a heat gun for the capsules. How long would you say the end of the bottle is in the boiling water?



only seconds if that. 

Also either Josewine or myself have been hitting it a bit too hard tonight. I may try to read that post again in the morning, maybe then it will look more like English to me.


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## ffemt128

Duster said:


> only seconds if that.
> 
> Also either Josewine or myself have been hitting it a bit too hard tonight. I may try to read that post again in the morning, maybe then it will look more like English to me.


 

Still not english.....LOL


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## pjd

Thanks Duster and Doug, It took me 4 or 5 times trying to read that before I gave up!


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## joeswine

*things happen?*

 I think a lot of it is also do to the internal shape or missed shape (inside diameter of the neck) it has to be something ,either cork fit,bottle neck size,or were both hitting it a little too hard,all kidding aside it is a problem throughout our wine club..truly


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## joeswine

*Editted*

MAN THAT PRIOR POST WAS ALL WEIRD,NEED TO TALK TO MY EDITOR?


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## fivebk

Do you soak your corks in K-Meta before pressing them into the bottles? I did this with my first batch and the same thing happened when I tried to open them STUCK TIGHT !!!
Someone told me to carefully insert a knife blade around the very top of the cork and then try pulling the cork. Worked every time for me. 

Give it a try......What can it hurt.......

BOB


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## ckassotis

Not that it is terribly helpful in hindsight, but going forward, I haven't encountered anyone serious that advocates spraying or soaking your corks. Inserting them dry helps them seal correctly - by inserting them wet, you are interfering with the proper seal.


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## xanxer82

try a different cork or get a stainless steel corkscrew. Good luck!


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## SLOweather

Duster said:


> Why in the Heck do I keep breaking cork screws?
> 
> I have two theories, either the wine (sweet wine) is causing the cork to stick fast to the bottle or the K-meta is doing something to the cork causing it to stick fast.



Here's what I think...

The sugar in the "sweet wine" is gluing the cork to the inside of the neck. I dunno how to fix it except to maybe rinse the inside of the neck with a little water after filling and before corking.

Or, I could be completely full of it, and I don't mean wine.


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## joeswine

*sweet or not?*

I personally don't think it matters it seem to happening to some dry wines in our group,maybe its as simple as their a little to big and when they expand in the neck their not going to come out ?


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## SpoiledRotten

I had the same problem, Duster, until I changed to synthetic corks. They go in easy and are fairly easy to remove with the electric corkscrew, yet hold the liquid tightly in the bottle.


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## roadwarriorsvt

ckassotis said:


> Not that it is terribly helpful in hindsight, but going forward, I haven't encountered anyone serious that advocates spraying or soaking your corks. Inserting them dry helps them seal correctly - by inserting them wet, you are interfering with the proper seal.


 
Its good to know that ckassotis doesn't soak cork!  Sorry, couldn't resist! Watched too much SNL growing up!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fuj1aKxET8Y[/ame]


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## bg7mm

i use an electric and have never had a problem, i use number 8 and 9 corks and heat shrink in boiling water


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## Brew and Wine Supply

Put your corks in dry. That will help.
Other than that, I don't think you know your own strength.


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## beggarsu

SpoiledRotten said:


> I had the same problem, Duster, until I changed to synthetic corks. They go in easy and are fairly easy to remove with the electric corkscrew, yet hold the liquid tightly in the bottle.



synthetic dobn't allow the wine to age.

just use levered cork screw. 
Electric? When the apocalypse comes you are going to be...well..screwed... no electricity. 

Or even just the power outs.

I'm agaisnt outside dependence.


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## tiMcC

stop buying your wine openers at walmart


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## beggarsu

My double levered cork screw is so powerful i can't imagine having any problem opening anything.

As for corking I have been having terribly inconsistent results. 
I use #9 used on screw tops and plain tops.

Some conclusions - 

Screw tops are OK for one or 2-3 time use despite the anxiety - the people spoke (form much reading) and they spoke for usage up to a point - However I will use up my unused remaining cleaned up bottles from the recycle depot one time then switch to full tops just to be sure from now on. I had one very long neck screw top - the neck cracked - but i don't know when it did that or how or why - i maybe bumped it when I was handling it - storing - giving to friend - don't know when it happened - but a very long neck and screw top seems weaker - the rest look and act very strong - they are already corked and good to go probably with handling and de-c0rking caution (use two handled de-corker) 

Inconsistent results corking - lately I think I am having problems didn't seem to have before because the rubber grip wore on the gripper. and was slipping at critical moment not giving me full penetration I will restore -reinforce that with rubber from a bike tire and see then, Definitely making sure the neck is dry at corking time is a must.

When i say inconsistent, I mean inconsistent - some going in too far some not far enough - same ullage same bottle - it's a fine hand art. 

Conclusion - ullage is not really a factor for what i do in this problem I measure my ullage with a chopstick marked - I always have the same ullage and tested different levels 
Is inconsistent because of cork resistance and hand skill involved.
I do a 30 set and i got a big range of results - a lot of skill is needed to get consistent results. And yeah I do the full on the floor between the feet method. 


I think corks go in easier in screw tops so have to allow if screw top or full top.

Wetting cork helps as makes a smoother cork - can gauge hand strength much easier.

As far as wetting (just slightly on outside - not soaking pre-packaged pre-sterilized corks) with water or Kmeta not being good - these wines , at least mine are supposed to have shelf life of 12-14 months this is not 5 -15 years storage for me, I think this concern is over-amped and I haven't seen any reportage of a problem form this for one year kit wines or home fruit wines..


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## ldmack3

I have broken many corkscrews with dbl handles, bent the heck out of waiters/rabbit openers and had a restaurant require 2 people to open a bottle. 
I even broke the neck off of a bottle and cut the crud out of my hand. (Had my Wheaties that day)
I have found it seems to be from 2 things.
Too much sulfite on the cork (per George) when it goes in and some agglomerated corks from my fav supplier. Some of these seem to use very small pieces so there is much more glue making them extremely hard.
When stuck you can pierce the space between the cork and neck all the way around -big pain.
Or change corks, don't wet them and use an electric opener. No more troubles now.


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## beggarsu

ldmack3 said:


> I have broken many corkscrews with dbl handles, bent the heck out of waiters/rabbit openers and had a restaurant require 2 people to open a bottle.
> I even broke the neck off of a bottle and cut the crud out of my hand. (Had my Wheaties that day)
> I have found it seems to be from 2 things.
> Too much sulfite on the cork (per George) when it goes in and some agglomerated corks from my fav supplier. Some of these seem to use very small pieces so there is much more glue making them extremely hard.
> When stuck you can pierce the space between the cork and neck all the way around -big pain.
> Or change corks, don't wet them and use an electric opener. No more troubles now.



"I have broken many corkscrews with dbl handles"

I don't see how that is possible - I'd need a vice grip to break my double handle corkscrew - the worst possible scenario would be that the sharp metal point cannot penetrate the cork materiel - in that case I woudl use on eof the many other tools I have to penetrate the cork in the center. . I am a handyman with many tools - cork is not metal - if I ever meet this "obstinate " cork which I haven't, I'm sure I will triumph. 
..
I won't be changing the cork system - it's traditional and you need the corks to age the wine.


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## ldmack3

Generally the screw portion attaches to the upper portion by either crimping or with a pin. This is where they broke when trying to pull the cork out.
Even when they didn't break, at times it took one person to hold the bottle and the other to manipulate the double handles.
My solution was to go to natural corks. Don't believe in screw tops. May be old fashioned but...oh well. That's worked for more than a few years/generations.


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## beggarsu

ldmack3 said:


> Generally the screw portion attaches to the upper portion by either crimping or with a pin. This is where they broke when trying to pull the cork out.
> Even when they didn't break, at times it took one person to hold the bottle and the other to manipulate the double handles.
> My solution was to go to natural corks. Don't believe in screw tops. May be old fashioned but...oh well. That's worked for more than a few years/generations.




It's not the screw tops I believe in , it's whats in them.

In Vino Veritas


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## iVivid

Corked thousands of bottles now; using various corks. All put in with a lever corker (i.e. twin handles you pull down).
I've used heaps of 'corkscrews'. Never, ever had I not had one come out.
NZ don't have a Walmart tho


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## Putterrr

Try this one. RJS gave white synthetic corks a couple years ago with the RQ kits. Nice idea but a b++ch to open. Even with this one, they squeak all the way out. I paid $10 dollars for mine at my LHBS.

cheers


Continuous turning corkscrew. A *continuous-turn corkscrew* can be identified by its large turning handle on top and the head that fits neatly on top of the wine bottle. Place the head on the bottle, twist the worm into the cork and then continue to twist the handle; the corkscrew will do the work for you, twisting the cork out. This is an easy-to-use, reliable type of corkscrew that is relatively inexpensive.


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## beggarsu

Putterrr said:


> Try this one. RJS gave white synthetic corks a couple years ago with the RQ kits. Nice idea but a b++ch to open. Even with this one, they squeak all the way out. I paid $10 dollars for mine at my LHBS.
> 
> cheers
> 
> 
> Continuous turning corkscrew. A *continuous-turn corkscrew* can be identified by its large turning handle on top and the head that fits neatly on top of the wine bottle. Place the head on the bottle, twist the worm into the cork and then continue to twist the handle; the corkscrew will do the work for you, twisting the cork out. This is an easy-to-use, reliable type of corkscrew that is relatively inexpensive.



Yeah that's what I'm talking about.
EDIT - except I notice that one has no levers - mine is the same but with levers. 

EDIT: I checked my two lever - it is solid - there is nothing to break no pin etc. I'd say to the other guy - get a better continuous two lever opener. 


---
Though synthetic corks are no good - the wine can't age.


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## bstnh1

I use a floor corker with bi-disc corks from widgetco and have the same problem once in awhile. Some come out of the bottle fine; others, no way! The really good corkscrews will strip the center out of the stuck corks and not remove them.


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## skyfire322

I've used a Butler's Thief on stuck corks with a decent amount of success in the past.


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## roger80465

Are you using sulfite on the corks before insertion? I had the same problem but, thanks to a thread here, stopped using sulfite on the corks and now I no longer have the problem.


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