# Repaint or just clean



## Giuseppe (Sep 23, 2010)

SHOULD I SAND BLAST THE IRON ON MY PRESS, BRINGING IT DOWN TO BARE METAL, AND REPAINTING IT? OR SHOULD I JUST SAND BLAST IT TO BARE METAL AND LEAVING IT RAW IRON AND WIPING IT DOWN WITH MINERAL OIL BEFORE USE? IF YOU SUGGEST REPAINTING IT... WHAT KIND OF PAINT?
MY BIGGEST FEAR IS THE PAINT FLAKING OFF AND GETTING INTO THE VINO!!! I KNOW ALL ABOUT PREPPING THE SURFACE BEFORE HAND BUT THE FLAKING POSSIBILITY IS THERE NO MATER WHAT, OTHERWISE I WOULDN'T BE NEEDING TO SAND BLAST IT NOW RIGHT?

SO....


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## winemaker_3352 (Sep 23, 2010)

You can buy a food grade paint to use - here is another thread on this subject.

http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8832&highlight=food+grade+paint


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## Tom (Sep 23, 2010)

Giuseppe said:


> SHOULD I SAND BLAST THE IRON ON MY PRESS, BRINGING IT DOWN TO BARE METAL, AND REPAINTING IT? OR SHOULD I JUST SAND BLAST IT TO BARE METAL AND LEAVING IT RAW IRON AND WIPING IT DOWN WITH MINERAL OIL BEFORE USE? IF YOU SUGGEST REPAINTING IT... WHAT KIND OF PAINT?
> MY BIGGEST FEAR IS THE PAINT FLAKING OFF AND GETTING INTO THE VINO!!! I KNOW ALL ABOUT PREPPING THE SURFACE BEFORE HAND BUT THE FLAKING POSSIBILITY IS THERE NO MATER WHAT, OTHERWISE I WOULDN'T BE NEEDING TO SAND BLAST IT NOW RIGHT?
> 
> SO....



Please take the caps off. It's hard to read.


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## Wade E (Sep 23, 2010)

this place here sells paint especially for wine making. You may have to call them as I know they at one time didnt have the paint on their website. 
http://www.piwine.com/


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## Sliverpicker (Sep 23, 2010)

I agree with Tom..... no need for the Billy Mays button!


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## Wade E (Sep 23, 2010)

On a side note if you can powder coat it that would be awesome!


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## rodo (Sep 24, 2010)

> On a side note if you can powder coat it that would be awesome!


 
I agree with Wade powder coat is the best. 

However, if you sandblast it to white metal, use a good primer and paint, and don't put it on too heavily it won't flake off. Also most paint (that you can buy) is not toxic once it is cured. Here is a link to a page on Krylon's site that addresses this.
http://www.krylon.com/search/?search_terms=non+toxic


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## Giuseppe (Sep 25, 2010)

One thing led to another... i was looking into just cleaning up the press... Now I'm deep into a full restoration... i wish i took more photos of the press prior to starting but this is what I'm working with... I'll keep adding photos along the way to show the process, for anyone interested.
This is the condition BEFORE i started.


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## JohnT (Sep 28, 2010)

I have been using my press for 10 year and reconditioned it this year. 


I sanded the plunger and pan to bare metal, then gave them 3 coats of food grade paint.

For the barrel, I replaced the wood with new white oak staves. I gave them 3 coats of food safe polyurethane.

All new stainless Steel nuts and bolts.

For the pins and bands, I stripped off the paint, polished them and then had them chromed. (the chorme used is food safe). I felt that the powder coat would not hold up to the amount of flexing that the barrel ends up taking.

Next year, we will refinish the frame.

See picture...


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## Giuseppe (Sep 28, 2010)

Very nice John! That hydro press looks f***ing heavy!! The chrome looks real good, I did the same thing with the white oak, and stainless hardware, however I chose to powdercoat mine! If all goes well it's gonna be done by Friday!


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## JohnT (Sep 28, 2010)

your right, it is very heavy (I think 600 pounds). 

Mind if I ask how much your powder coat is costing?

do me a favor and post some pictures when you are finished.


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## Giuseppe (Sep 28, 2010)

I will definitelly post some photos... The powder coat is costing me $175. That includes the ratchet chuck, the three bands the base powder coated.


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## JohnT (Sep 29, 2010)

The chrome cost about 350. That is just for the bands and pins. 

We are thinking that it is missing something. Perhaps we could have Paulie out at OCC fabricate a really cool exaust system?


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## Giuseppe (Sep 30, 2010)

Coating the white oak... Getting ready!


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## JohnT (Sep 30, 2010)

What are you using on the wood?


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## Giuseppe (Sep 30, 2010)

WATCO Butcher Block Oil and Finish. Easy wipe on application, but the key part is once it's cured it's 100% FDA approved for food contact.


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## JohnT (Sep 30, 2010)

Did you cut new stalves or did you clean-up the old ones?


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## Giuseppe (Sep 30, 2010)

Cut new ones from white oak.


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## Wade E (Sep 30, 2010)

Looking good, cant wait to see the new pics!


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## Giuseppe (Oct 1, 2010)

Finally got the basket together and the powder coating is complete, the color is "Red Wine Red" . Just waiting on new polished stainless pins to hold the two halves of the basket together.

RECAP:
* New White Oak Staves (Furnished with Butcher Block Oil)
* Sand Blasted entire base, Containment Bands, and Ratchet Chuck
* Powder Coated entire base, Containment Bands, and Ratchet Chuck.
* Replaced ratchet handle with polished precision ground 316 stainless steel.
* Replaced basket pins with polished precision ground 316 stainless steel rod.
* Replaced all basket hardware with stainless hardware.
* Replaced the chuck keys with polished precision ground 316 stainless.

Press Down Time: 4 days.


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## winemaker_3352 (Oct 1, 2010)

Nice job!!!


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## rodo (Oct 1, 2010)

It's always nice to see a job done the "right" way. Well done


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## JohnT (Oct 1, 2010)

Nice!!!! 

The only thing I would suggest is to get some "acorn nuts" (SS of course). 

You screw them onto the ends of the bolts that tie the staves to the bands. This will protect your bolt's threads as well as protect you body as you brush past it. 

johnT.


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## Giuseppe (Oct 1, 2010)

Absolutely it's so weird you mention that today I cut the length down and ordered SS acorn nuts lol the hardware store only had 50 HAHA 

Thanks guys for all the positive feed back


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## JohnT (Oct 1, 2010)

If you need more, I know that Lowes carries them. (at least the one out by me).


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