# Winemaking area



## Wade E

This will be it. aits 12 x10 and will do but tommorow it gets destroyed
and waterproofed and then the story begins. the other side of the
basement will be bedroom and wine storage. Ill take some pictures along
the way. Gotta start buying some framing lumber now


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## sangwitch

cool wade. It'll be great to watch the pics as this develops. congrats


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## Wade E

This is the same spot after 4 1/2 hours of rain and it gets alot worse
with actual springs shooting straight up through the floor and thats
why Im spending $6,000.00 to resolve this!







*Edited by: wade *


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## jobe05

Been there done that Wade.......


Drain tile and stone "Below" the footers is the only fix I have ever found. Have seen people dig and tar the outside, put drain tile in but not below the footers.


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## NorthernWinos

How are they going to water proof???? Just paint on a coating??? Or dig trenches around the perimeter and have a sump with a water pump???? 


Do you have rain gutters on your house's eves to direct the rain water away from the sides of the house???? Do you have good drainage around the outside of the house???


I ask so many questions because the old house that was here when we moved here was hopeless....we learned a lot trying to remedy the wet situation...


The old house had no drainage, in fact when we moved in the basement windows were below the dirt line around the house...we dug a mote around the house to drain rain water away, put long spouts off the eves trough's to direct the rain water away from the house....Everything helped a bit...but the soil was so heavy that it would just get saturated and seep through cracks in the walls...The house had other issues, so it got moved away.


Hope your project works out and heals those leaks you have going there....Nothing worse than a wet basement.


Keep those photos coming....*Edited by: Northern Winos *


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## Wade E

They are going to dig down to the bottom of the footings and install
10" drain pipes which dump into an industrial sump pump with an alarm
on it. Then they are going to coat all walls with a slurry that bonds
to it and is supposed to saturate into the walls and become
inpenetrable. Then they are going to sray all the walls down with a
mold resistant spray. All work is guaranteed for the life of us and the
next owner(transferrable). And yes I have gutters wth extended down
spouts away from the house. I did alot when we first moved in to try
and remedy this and believe me it helped alot but just not enough.


*Edited by: wade *


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## Wade E

Its really raining now and the springs are really in action. No this is not Ol Faithful its my basement!


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## NorthernWinos

Holy Cow!!!! It is an actual spring...lots of pressure there.


The way they are going to do it sounds like a sure fix for your problem ......it's going to give you a whole new living area.


What do you do with all that water....got a floor drain????


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## Wade E

Luckily we have a walk out basement and it just flows right out. Thats
the reason when getting house insurance they ask if you have a walkout
basement or Bilko doors. Water will just fill up in your basement and
cause lots of damage with Bilko doiors!


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## jsmahoney

lake house! Your own natural springs! Farmers around here would love to have your place for irrigation if that natural spring of your holds up!


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## PolishWineP

Just put a pool in your basement! 
A couple of months after Bert and I got married the city flooded. We had a basement full of water and lost the furnace and electrical panel.



The the true urban girl that I was, I didn't have a clue.



So we're standing on the front porch of the house, watching the water flow by. Fully surrounded by water. He put his arm around me and said, "See? Less than a year of marriage and I already gave you a lake house." I added, "With an indoor pool!" It must have been love because I even stayed after the 2 floods the next year!




We didn't have the lovely spring in our basement, it just poured in the window.


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## Waldo

And I thought the occasional puddle I was getting in my storm cellar was a problem..WHEWWWWWWW !!! Good luck on the project wade and keep them pictures coming as it progresses.


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## OGrav

No kidding, I was digging full footers for a deck out back and since we are about two feet above sea level whenever we get two-three inches of rain the ground is saturated. I bailed and siponed enough water for awhile. I want a basement eventually, but don't know if I could stand one that floods.


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## GrapeApe

Here's another way of looking at it... 


432 bottles of wine of various vintages and typesif purchased in the store would be worth about $7,776, assuming $18 per bottle on average. 


If the cost of your average kit+ supplies is $100, which yields about 30 bottles, your per bottle cost is $3.33 or $1440 for your entire stock. That means you've saved $6,336- enough money to almost completely pay for your basement waterproofing and buildout!! 


And just think your savings continue with each batch you make. Before long you will have saved enough to add a whole new wing to your house!


Good luck with those leaks, Wade. 


GrapeApe.

*Edited by: GrapeApe *


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## OilnH2O

GA, I like the way you think, Bud!


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## Wade E

Phase 2


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## Wade E

They worked like dogs all day and got all the trenches dug and
installed the sump which pumps it into an old pipe I found which takes
it underground right into a stream in the woods.


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## PeterZ

Wade,

When I was in 8th grade we moved to a new house in Lexington, MA. Before that we lived south of Chicago. In both houses we had sump pumps in the basement, and in both houses the basement would flood when in bad storms. Why? Power failure.

I recommend you keep a generator handy that you can plug the sump pump into. With the kind of storms you are having now, power failures are very possible, and all of the finish work you plan to do down there would be ruined.


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## jobe05

Very good suggestion Pete....... A warning worth heeding........


And best of all...............


You finally posted something that I understood






Just kidding...... love your post!


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## Wade E

Peter I have a generator that powers my whole breaker box. I had it
installed a year after we moved in when we lost power for 2 days in the
middle of a heat wave of summer. Theres nothing worse than coming home
from a job where you sweat like a pig all day and have sawdust caked on
you and come home to find out that on the way home basically the whole
state of Ct. and NY lost power. There was another $3,500 after having
it installed but we saved $500 just from what was in our freezer not to
mention that our fridge was packed. I like to come home and take a
shower and turn on the AC!


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## Wade E

Ahhhhhhhhhh! Now its time for the concrete to dry before I can start
framing and wiring. Yippeeeeeeeee! No more water. It even has an alarm
to tell me if the water rises above the sump if sump fails to work and
its loud!













*Edited by: wade *


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## masta

Maybe we need one more real good rain to test it before you start framing to make sure it works!


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## Wade E

Im going to use pressure treated 2 x 4's for sill plates just in case and will not sheetrock or carpet until Im sure!


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## winesnob

Good luck with that Wade. With all this rain we are getting in the North East, it will surely be a good test.

We have a partially finished basement (half finished and 1/4 wine cellar) and I've been checking for water every night here in So. NH. Thank goodness the previous owners made sure the drainage from the house was excellent. MOLD STINKS!!!


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## PeterZ

wade, now I envy you for two things - your basement and your whole house generator. The whole house generator is on my wish list, but the basement is out of the question unless I build a new house (aka win the lottery).


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## Wade E

The generator was $3,100 and to have it wired was $900 but the pce. of mind and home resale difference, priceless!


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## jobe05

Wade, congradulations on being on step closer to a realized goal.


Have you thought about tiling the basement floor? Then using area carpets, like oriental carpets over the tile? At least that way if...... and thats a big if, it happens to ever get wet again, you can take the area carpets out and clean and dry before anything gets moldy?


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## Wade E

All finished areas except the bedroom will be tiled wether cheap ol
stick it down or ceramic. The bedroom will be carpeted and that area of
the basement never got wet, just the other 1/2 as that is the way the
floor is un level so that area is safe and weve had some serious water
in the basement.


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## grapeman

It's coming along nice Wade, but after you get it good and dry you will have to change your name from Wade to something a little drier. Keep the pictures coming- it's moving along nicely.


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## jobe05

appleman said:


> after you get it good and dry you will have to change your name from Wade to something a little drier.




Now that was FUNNY!!!!


















Maybe we can call him "Crawl", Like Pauly Shore on "Son InLaw"


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## Wade E

One of these days, pow, right in the kisser!


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## jobe05

Naw............ 


Alice doesn't fit you.........



*Edited by: jobe05 *


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## Trigham

That was just sooo funny, I actually laughed out loud and people were wondering what I was laughing at lol


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## chevyguy65

Wade, 
Good luck on your basement project. I had problems with water years ago.I highly recommend getting a sump pump that is bigger than what you think you'll need (HPsize) I had a 1/3 hp motor and it could hardly keep up at times.I switched to a 1/2 hp and had no problems after that.Also think about getting a whole house surge protector.I also learned the hard way on that one. we had some wires come down in a storm that back feed into the house and blew out the tv's,computer, lamps,garage door opener,all surge protectors and every GFI outlet in the house. We then had a whole house protector put in the fusebox. The cost was real resonable compared to the damage we had .Also great piece of mind!


Good luck!


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## Wade E

Thanks chev.


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## Grant

Hey Wade


When you do go to put your walls in, make sure that you put plastic between your sill and the concrete floor. This will keep the moisture that is present in the concrete from attcking your boards.


Grant


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## Wade E

Good tip Imeeko! Thanks


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## grapeman

Wade, code generally requires pressure treated sill plates on concrete. It is just plain good practice too. An untreated board on concrete, especially damp concret won't last long and would wick into the insulation and sheetrock eventually. You probably should also use water resistant sheetrock-like you would in a bathroom. Cost isn't much more and will hold up a whole lot better.


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## Wade E

wade said:


> Im going to use pressure treated 2 x 4's for sill plates
> just in case and will not sheetrock or carpet until Im sure!



Thanks appleman and that was my plan.


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## jobe05

Hey Alice......... I mean.... Wade.....


Not that any of us don't think that you don't know what your doing, I thought I would throw my 2 cents worth in here too.


Here, I don't know if this would apply in your area, a room is not necessarily additional square footage (Living Footage) to your house unless it has acceptable windows. They are more concerned with escape than function and aesthetics. 


The other concern that I would have in your particular case would be mold. Is there any treatment things you can do during the construction phase that would help eliminate future issues with mold?


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## Wade E

wade said:


> They are going to dig down to the bottom of the footings and install
> 10" drain pipes which dump into an industrial sump pump with an alarm
> on it. Then they are going to coat all walls with a slurry that bonds
> to it and is supposed to saturate into the walls and become
> inpenetrable. Then they are going to sray all the walls down with a
> mold resistant spray. All work is guaranteed for the life of us and the
> next owner(transferrable). And yes I have gutters wth extended down
> spouts away from the house. I did alot when we first moved in to try
> and remedy this and believe me it helped alot but just not enough.



After the walls already being sprayed down as listed above, I
really dont have any ideas besides plastic sheathing the walls. Anyone
got any ideas and do I need to go any further. I know framing and
woodworking but not alot about mold resisting. A whole new world for me
as I never had to deal with this before. Windows I cant really do
anything with as their 33 x 13 1/2 and I am replacing them but they are
not egress size and nothing I can really do as the grade of the land
limits me but I have a walk-out basement.

*Edited by: wade *


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## jobe05

I wish I could be of more help with mold education, but don't know. I do know of several instances of others dealing with it, with varying advise and results. For instance when my brother inlaw had mold in his house, a professional recommended he tear out the sheetrock and insulation, clean and soak with a diluted clorine based cleaner, then reinsulate and use a plastic bearier. He did and the mold came back with a vengance........ who ever told him to use a plastic bearier forgot to tell him to put the plastic on the outside of the studs (outside walls, behind the sheeting and siding) and it sweat and molded within days, actually making the problem worse than the original problem. My daughter just baught a house in NY that Had a severe mold issue, mind you, this is a brand new home only 1 year old. She hire a contractor that for $30 grand came in and removed all the walls contents (insulation, plastic sheetrock) and put back new after treating the area (Chemically) using no plastic, and they have had no problem. So the moral of the story could be that each instance is different, what worked for one person, may or may not work in your case. But I would ask all the questions that I could before you do anything.


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## Wade E

As Im not finishing my whole basement and only covering up about 1/2 of
the existing walls I shouldnt be to bad off with what was already done
and the plastic sheathing. If I hear anything else I will take it into
consideration. I have to go pick up the new basement windows tommorow
and will ask the guy I deal with at the local lumber store who used to
be a contractor before he opened this facility that is growing like
Georges store in leaps and bounds. Anyone else have any ideas I would
love to hear them.


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## NorthernWinos

When we built our last house the basement was all below ground level....when we had the basement walls up we had the outside of the cement blocks plastered with cement, then painted tar on it....it had a drain tile around the outside walls below the footing level and it drained into a sump with a sump pump....Inside we had hung a plastic sheet next to the cement blocks, framed with 2X4's, fiberglass and sheetrock. Had very little problem with mold, only in a sauna room near the shower....and in the root cellar far bottomcorner.....never any flooding, even in heavy rains in heavy clay soil...the sump pump failed once in 15 years and was replaced...the overflow went into a floor drain, out a pipeand down a hill with gravity flow.


This house is 1/2 in the ground and the front half is at grade...we put a tile around the outside of the footing with gravity flow down a hill....no sump pump. We painted the outside of the cement blocks with a product called Dry-Lock [think that's the name] You could find it at Home Depot .....after we painted that on the outside we also painted 2 coats of a tar product, just to be sure....a little overkill. Then inside when we sheetrocked we hung a sheet of plastic against the cement blocks, framedand put up fiberglass insulation that comes with plastic on both sides...like it is in a bag...no chance of it ever getting damp...there is no sign of any moisture down there...but one whole front side of thedownstairs is above soil level....We have 12 inch cement blocks and 6 inch framed walls...it is very cozy down there in the heated area....We have hot water heat in the floor in the living area with tile...the other half of the basement is cement floor in the furnace room, laundry room and the root cellar/wine cellar. The root/wine cellarhas insulated 2X4 walls, no heat ducts..it stays about 62-67...winter and summer, even with a wood furnace in the adjoining room....Yeah!!! for insulation.


Sounds like they treated your walls right...did they use use the Dry-Lock product???? Nowhang plastic sheeting over the walls, frame with your 2X4's or 2X6'sand use the fiberglass that comes with the plastic around it....it's a nice product to work with if you get itchy from working with fiberglass.


Good luck with your project...sounds like it is moving along nicely...


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## Wade E

Ive never seen the insulation with the plastic but will look for it.


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## NorthernWinos

BTW...Very Important!!!!! Start running a dehumidifier right away...that cement is full of water ...as is the stuff the painted on your walls....keep the dehumidifier running all summer...you'll be amazed how much moisture you'll get out of there..... We ran 2 of them downstairs when we first moved in and was still building.*Edited by: Northern Winos *


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## Wade E

Good tip NW.


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## NorthernWinos

Also, run some fans and heaters..try to get it as dry as you can before you start covering up the walls...are you using treated lumber for the sill [base] of the walls??? At least what comes in contact with the floor.


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## Wade E

Yes pressure treated 2 x 4's for sill plates and I have been running
fans and a kerosene and ceramic heater for the past few days.


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## NorthernWinos

I found a piece of that insulation...It is called Comfort-Therm made by Johns-Manville... 


http://www.specjm.com/poly-encapsulated.php*Edited by: Northern Winos *


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## grapeman

The main purpose for the plastic on the insulation is to protect the installer. I contains the micro-particles of insulation and makes it safer and more comfrotable for the installer. Hence the name Comfort-Therm. Sounds like you have a good game plan in place for the installation and construction. Before you know it, you will be using the space and wonder how you ever got along without it.


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## Wade E

Well I bought the lumber for the winemaking area as this is going to be
the area I do 1st. Im going to use water resistant sheetrock which is
also mildew and mold resistant. A few $'s more a sheet but gives me pc
of mind and Im not 1 to 1/2 ass something. Im also going to use self
leveling cement on the floor cause whats existing is pretty bumpy and
will not except any type of flooring except rug and that would not be
to good in the winemaking area. Probably go with linoleum in there or
cheap industrial tiles of the such (nothing that would break like
ceramic). Dont know what Im going to do with the ceiling though as I
need to access pipes above but never seen anyone nor done a drop ceiling and dont know how involved it is.


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## grapeman

Wade, you can do a drop ceiling easily. They are a piece of cake. All you need is a pair of tinsnips to cut the tracking, ruler, level, hammer and a couple other simple tools. The hardest part is laying out square and level grid and pop the panels in place. Takes about a day to do a good size room. Ask your building supply place for instructions and they will give easy to follow instructions to you. Go For It.


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## jobe05

I agree with Appleman ......... Well...... except for the level thingy...... never used one myself......... (just kidding) 


They are rather easy to put up wade, once you get the outside channel put up, the rest is like laying out floor tile, find the center of the room and put the center "T" one foot to the right, and another one foot to the left, then every 2 feet from there. The smaller 2 foot "T"s snap right into place.


Actually, if you know someone with a laser level I hear they work great for this. Other wise I just measure up from the floor to get room heigth, Adjust center "T"s with a wire wraped around a nail in the joist.


Edit: Also makes lighting easy to install.*Edited by: jobe05 *


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## Wade E

I actually have a laser that is mounted on a pole or tripod as I used
to install custom cabinets for a living before I got into stairs. The
pole laser is really nice as you can set it in the middle of the room
and put it at any height you want. I used it today to start framing the
wine area. Got to go to home depot to pick up self leveling cement and
a few switches and outlets. Good thing I know alot about electricity as
I have alot of electrical work to do also. Plumbing is not my thingh
though! Dont need any of that.


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## jobe05

wade said:


> Plumbing is not my thingh though! Dont need any of that.




Sigh.....................







YOU MAKE WINE!!!!! You don't need to know how to do plumbing, you just need to know someone who knows plumbing........ and likes wine






Your not going to want a sink down there? A big Laundry tub type sink? Your gonna wish you'd had........... For a drain, you could drain your sink to a bucket with a sump in it, then sump it to your septic or sewer line.


I wonder what all that yeast does to my septic system anyways............


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## Wade E

I will eventually put a Utility sink on the other side where my shop is
as the washer and dryer will go upstairs in my sons old room behind
louvered doors. That is where the sink will go as it has hot and cold
water, a drain and its one door away. Until then I can keep waliking
epties upstairs to wash.


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## NorthernWinos

How about some photos from the ground up?????


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## Wade E

Will keep the pictures coming as I finish each stage.


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## Wade E

Okay I got all the framing in today and put down self leveling concrete
floor primer (milky looking stuff). Have to let it dry 4 hours so thats
as far as I can go today. Maybe I can get the concrete down tommorow after work.












*Edited by: wade *


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## PeterZ

I've been away for a couple of days, so here are a bunch of random comments about the last 25 or so posts.

Mold abatement. Rip out everything that is moldy and replace it. Nothing else works worth a $^!t. (Official word from the experts in the Environmental Department of Naval Support Activity Mid-South)

Plastic against the wall = good. Plastic on the inside of the studs = bad. You want the inside of the stud bay to breathe with the environment in the basement, so the humidity in the stud cavity will be lower than the humidity of the walls.

Concrete floor primer - probably not needed. It is just a latex emulsion designed to keep dry concrete from sucking moisture out of the new thinset. (Remember - concrete does not "dry" it "sets." Setting is actually a chemical reaction between the portland cement in the concrete and water. If something takes the water away, the cement is weak.) Your floor is quite moist, and will not suck water from the new thinset.

Laser level - haven't seen a contractor put in a suspended ceiling without one in at least 10 years.

Looks like you're on well water, Wade. Do you have an analysis?

BTW - I'll bet Wade knows all of this. My post is for the lurkers and not so handy.


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## Wade E

Everything except the primer part as it said it was supposed to help in
adhesion. Yes Ive had the well water tested twice. Once when I bought
it as I was required to when we bought the house due to a FHA Mortgage
and 2 years agon when we had the refinanced our house to get a
5% mortgage rate as we were at 6 7/8% when we bought it. We started
with a 30 and when we refinanced 4 years later we went with the 20 year
mortgage and eliminated the PMI insurance.


*Edited by: wade *


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## Wade E

Okay I got a spot or 2 on the lens but oh well. Here is the self
leveling cement laid down and my back is sore. This stuff really starts
to set up pretty quick and settles quick whlie trying to work with it.
Ive never used it before and it was an experience. You must really keep
mixing it really good while working with it or you wont get a
consistant mixture. It came out pretty good but could have been better
if I had some experience with it. This floor will be linoleum or tiled
so it will not matter but If I was just going to paint it I would do
another coat to smooth out a few imperfection that I created trying to
smooth out better because I messed up a little and it was a little to
dry to try and fix it.

Edit: I guess it helps that I actually post the picture too huh!












*Edited by: wade *


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## Angell Wine

http://www.tyvek.com/whatistyvek.htm
The best thing they ever came up with.


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## Wade E

Thanks Angel as I know of this product and have used it many times.


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## NorthernWinos

That's looking nice and new



......I'm surprised you didn't have your crew pour a whole new floor while they were theredoing the drain and sealing the walls....Did you hang a plastic sheet behind the stud walls????


Looks like insulation and drywall are soon to get up and then your room will really be taking shape....






I am personally looking at my sewing room with a different eye....don't sew much anymore....It has 2 windows tho and might be a bit bright for fermenting...but it and the spare bedroom are sure not used much.....hummmmm...


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## cindyjo

Wade, it looks like your room is off to a great start. I am very jealous. Good luck with the rest of your project.


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## PeterZ

wade said:


> Yes Ive had the well water tested twice.



So what was the analysis? I used to be in water treatment, and you'd be amazed at how much variation there is around the country. For example, total dissolved solids (TDS) from memory:

Houston ~500
Memphis 145
Boston 25
Phoenix ~1500


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## Wade E

Peter I have the paper somewher and it is buried but all I remember
about it is that it was a little high on sodium but otherwise very
good. NW, I wiil hang plastic on the concrete as soon as Im ready to
insulate as I dont want any moisture from the floor to get trapped on
the inside of the plastic. I have a 7" counter top for the room already
and looking around for some cheap cabinets that are leftovers or
scratch and dents or just returns that no one wants. Some times its
just cheaper to find stuff like this then to build it yourself and its
not like I have time for this anyway as when this area is done I have
to start on the other side of the basemnt where our bedroom and wine
storage facility is going to be. That self leveling cement that I laid
down yesterday that said it was going to be dry in 2-4 hours, well its
22 hours later and its still moist in spots and I read the directions 4
times as it seemed really soupy but I know it has to be that way to
level itself. Maybe the more you use the longer it takes I guess. Oh
well.


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## sangwitch

Looking great Wade! I think I speak for several when I say, "I'm jealous".


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## jobe05

Sorry Sang, but Im not jealous just yet....... as a matter of fact, during this phase of the job...... Not jealous at all....... I mean, the long hours...... sore backs and knees, the purple thumb nail from missing the nail...... a dozen times!....... Nope.... Not Jealous yet............. But so far it looks darn good!


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## Wade E

I dont miss with the hammer Al!




I have a pneumatic nailer for just about everything including a pin
nailer that shoots little tiny thin pcs of wire that are practicall
invisible for doing fine trim and moldings as I do alot of sidework.
But man the sore back is true. After yesterday I popped a 800 Ibuprofen
and an Ultrasette which I guess can be equal to a perkadan. Im not a
pill popper but I could barely stand straight up after mixing all that
cement by hand and being hunced over spreading it as I was 6 feet from
the middle at any point in the room. Ouch!

NW, $6000 was as much as I wanted to dull out from my pocket as I beat them down from the original $7400 that they wanted!




My father used to be a car salesman and tought me how to get anyone
down on their prices. Know Im going to call George and see what I can
get another kit for!



Just kidding!


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## Angell Wine

If any of my nail guns end up your way give me Holler. The crack heads broke into my tool trailer this week and lifted about 5 grand worth of tools.


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## rgecaprock

Wade,


Great room there and you are really making progress. 


Ramona


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## Wade E

Angell, That really [email protected]#$s. I had my whole truck stolen once with a dirt
bike in the back. Luckily I just lost my muffler doing some mud bogging
2 days prior and when they started it up it woke me up and I
immediately called the cops then went running out the door. I actually
herd the cops pulling them over 3 blocks away. The 2 morons could have
gone up the hill and dissapeared into the boondocks but instead went
straight through the middle of town and right past a Dunkin Donuts
where the police were sitting if you believe that!



Thats when I was renting in a shady town. Not the pits but not great either.


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## NorthernWinos

Wow...$6000 to pour a cement floor...that's some real money. Guess I am out of touch...we poured the cement in our garage last fall...the Redi-mix cement trucks came and I wrote the check for $1643 [$94/yard]for a 30X32 foot garage/footings and a small apron....Our friend showed up with his 6 sons all in construction with 2 trailers, one with only cement tools...they unloaded 3 power trowels....[only used one]...the boys helped pour, skreet and they all left within a couple hours...then the 'old guys' Jim and our friend finished the cement...I like to put the edge on....Cost of labor...No Charge...well...Jim trades labor with our friend...usually that works our pretty good...Except now...the garage is closed in with house wrap on it....the soffit and fascia material in in there waiting to get put on....Our friend is calving out his cows now and has 2000 acres of crops to get in....so we will wait for our 'trade-labor' for a few more months....As for the siding...? My husband is foolishly spending our money on diesel fuel [by the 1000 gallon tank full] corn and soybean seed, Round-Up by the 30 gallon barrel, fertilizer and later Anhydrous Ammonia on the corn...so..our pockets are empty....our building project waits....Jim did seal the floor this week just to get that done and he did wire it over winter so there is power...we were suppose to build a cupola for on the roof, but never got that done.....So...know that the money that goes into building never seems to go far enough and labor can pinch the pocket book...


Love watching your project...a dream come true.


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## Wade E

No NW, it was $6000 for them to come in and break apart the whole
perimeter of the foundation, install drainage pipes and process( small
rocks under and above the pipes for the water to drain into the pieps),
install a sump pump with an alarm that warns you if you lose power to
it or if the water level rises above where it should be emptying, and
then re cement where they tore up the floor. Then they put a slurry on
all the walls that are below ground level which is a thick membrane
that penetrates into the concrete and seals it kind of like a
industrial wet-lock. Then they sprayed down all the walls with a
special spray that soppoedly gets rid of any mold and prevents new
mold. Then they hauled all the stuff that was dug out of those trenches
which in this case was 98 buckets of big rocks about 1' round as this
prperty was built on wetlands and is basically all fill. To dig a hole
in our yard for a post is suicide. When I put up our deck I had to
redesign the structure twice as I kept hitting boulders that were just
to big to move to put in my sono tubes. So I really didnt want to pay
anymore for pouring a self leveling cement. Dont know how much more it
would have costed and dont want to know now as if it was cheap enough
Id have to kick myself in the butt!

*Edited by: wade *


----------



## Wade E

I probably could have done this myself as I knew what to do but it was
just to back intensive and not worth hurting my back as I would be out
of work and not making any money. My back will probably never be the
sdame again and just bending over stirring and spreading 4 50lb. bags
of that cement took a toll on my back. Not to mention it would have
taken a lot longer and my house would be in array for at least 2 weeks
and my wife would kill me. I must say that they really did a nice job
and cleaned up reall well after. We were looking at the mess and were
thinking to ourselves, how the heck are we gonna clean this miss as
there was mud everywhere. They just came in with a special attachment
and hosed it all down into the trap rock right before they cemented it
over. Whew!


*Edited by: wade *


----------



## PeterZ

Wade, it looks like you poured it about 1" deep. That may be why it took so long to cure. It's usually used to fill low spots in a slab before laying linoleum or laminate wood floors. When used that way, it is rarely more than 3/16" thick.


----------



## Wade E

Peter, me and my wife screwed up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It says you can
use it up to 1" thick and each bag covers 50 sq. feet at an eight inch
and I used 4 bags for 109 sq. ft. knowing that my floor was pretty bad *BUT*</font>
I should have used my conversion calculator as I dont many conversions!
It said to add 6.5 quarts per bag and wife said that equaled 3.25
gallons per bag. My floor is still tacky and impressionable now but
almost dry and just out of curiousity I plugged this conversion into my
computer and my jaw dropped. I was to lazy and hurried to go upstairs
and dble check and I dbld the amount of water per bag. That solves the
mystery of why it isnt dry! As Homer Simpson says
"DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT" Okay, so I called the
manufacturer and they said to scrape what ever comes up with a hard
digging using a cement scraper so I did. I lost about a bags worth as
most of it was dry. Ill have to let the rest underneath</font></font>
dry and then redo what is dug out. I guess Im lucky I only did this
small area first instead of the big room on the other side. That is
more than dble the size and would be making me very mad instead of just
sitting here laughing at my self. What a maroon!

*Edited by: wade *


----------



## NorthernWinos

Yikes...all that hard work and more time....It looked so nice in the photo.....Once it's done you'll be glad and can forget all the hassle....will be glad for you when your laying the the tiles over it....and it will be out of sight.


----------



## Waldo

NW is right buddy....Once it is finished and you begin enjoying it all this will be just a memory and a topic of discussion over a glass of fine wine.


----------



## OilnH2O

I'm with Waldo, Wade! Enjoy it when it's done!






(And I hope that you aren't feeling that pain in your back years from now along with those memories!



)


----------



## Trigham

Funny thing the old saying..... measure twice ..cut once!! comes to mind , My wife said I do the same things Wade, Im a typical maleI only read the directions afteri know i have done it wrong lol



She says I could save myself a lot of aggravation if I take the time to read!! How do u argue with that!! Just a thought that came to mind , Im doing some renos to our home, that she has asked me to do and I heard those words from her on more than one occasion, let me tell you!!



.


----------



## Wade E

Yea, yea, yea. Do I have to hear it from you too!




Actually I was mixing and she came up with the asmount of water and I
never dble checked as She's always righjt, except when shes wrong but
you didnt hear that from me!


----------



## NorthernWinos

With that much water in there it probably self-leveled nicely....


----------



## Wade E

yea your not kidding NW. Thats exactly what I said when I poured it until it didnt dry.


----------



## PeterZ

wade, I think you have learned what I have learned. Even when she's wrong, she's right. Just say "Yes, dear, I measured wrong."

On the upside, even though you have 2x the water specified, since it is being used only as a leveler over an existing concrete floor, the weakness that results is not very important. Once you get the linoleum over it, it should be fine. Just be careful not to gouge it before then, as it will be kind of soft.


----------



## Wade E

Well went to get a special switch to convert a single switch to a 3-way
so that when we go downstairs I can shut the light off at the bottom of
the stairs now because the wiring is run through a few places that are
not accessible to get to. It is a remote 3-way swithch that runs off a
relay or battery instead of running a new wire to the old switch which
can not be done without ripping out alot of existing sheetrock and is
not worth tearing out as the switch would be cheaper and alot easier.
The only problem is I had to special order it and have to wait till
Thursday to pick it up so again Im on hold to sheetrock. I guess Ill
start framing the wine storage area and the bedroom then. I really
wanted to get this room done first so I can get all my stuff that is
scattered through out the house back into one room. Uggggg!


----------



## grapeman

Boy Wade you really are inpatient and want things RIGHT NOW! How on earth do you ever make wine without going nuts over waiting?






That really is a good idea about the switch. I would say well worth waiting a few days for.


----------



## JimCook

Wade is the only guy I know that can age a wine 2 years in about 2 minutes.






- Jim


----------



## JWMINNESOTA

Yup, and _We All *Know*_ it takes at Least a week to get two years worth


----------



## Wade E

You guys are to much!




I framed out the wine storage area today and hung the doors in the
winemaking area. Tommorrow Ill frame the bedroom and get 2 more doors
and hopefully hang them too then its time to start wiring the rest.


----------



## NorthernWinos

So.....where's the photos??????????


----------



## Wade E

Itll look the same except for 2 plain doors now.




And yes I am very impatient because I cant stand a messy place. Thats
why its not bad for me with the wine cause its not a mess, its very
pretty actually.


----------



## Wade E

Well I picked up linoleum and cabs for the room and have a countertop.
Cantwait to get that switch so I can finish the wiring and start
sheetrocking.


----------



## bmorosco

Wade great job so far!! wish you luck with the room...Building stuff is always a challenge even if you have the directions right in front of you..But when it is done it is what makes it even more satisfying!!! Good LUCK!!


----------



## Wade E

Well I got the linoleum laid today and thats a really fun job when
there is nooks and a furnace to work around. Came out alright but I
wouldnt do my kitchen as Id fire myself but good enough for the
wineroom. I bought the cheapest one I could find just to get something
sanitary on the floor that can be cleaned. Floor was still not
perfectly flat but at $30 bucks a bag it was alot better than it was
and good enough! 









*Edited by: wade *


----------



## NorthernWinos

That will clean up nice and always look nice....keep those photos coming


----------



## OilnH2O

I think it looks GREAT!






And...if those diamonds on the vinyl flooring are green, I think I got a little bit of that same roll myself a few years ago!


----------



## Wade E

Black Diamonds Oil and I wish I did this during the day as I can see
more bubbles now. Ill pull up some spots that arent sticking to well
due to the bad levelling concrete mixture and pull the corners and tack
them down with the strips and concrete nails and hide that under
sheetrock and base molding.


----------



## PeterZ

Wade, just cut a small slit in the linoleum bubble, push out the air and push it down. Much easier than pulling it up.


----------



## Waldo

Just leave it like is...Tell folks your floor is fermenting too


----------



## NorthernWinos

Was it the kind of vinyl that you just put glue just around the perimeter????? 


We used some on the basement floor of the last house we built that you just put glue around the outside walls, or around the edge of each section...It did the strangest things....at certain times of the year the whole middle of the vinyl would heave upwards...like one huge bubble under it...like maybe in spring or fall....can't remember...maybe when we quit heating the downstairs in the spring....we'd throw a rug on it.


It was vinyl that you couldn't tear...very durable....but if you slit it ....the slit would get bigger.....I dropped a knife once processing deer and that little slit got bigger...however...that part of the floor no longer got the air under it in ...the small area by the stairway would bubble up...so we'd use the rug there.


So...if it is that type of vinyl be careful about slitting it to let the air out...do it in a place that doesn't show.


----------



## Wade E

This aws the really cheap stuff and tears as easy as paper so a little
slice will be the end of it. It was the type that you have to glue the
whole thing down as its very flimsey and the cement that I put down is
the problem. It was to weak and the glue actually pulled up the cement
in spots so Ill just have to pull up some edges which will not require
any resistance anyway and pull it tight and tack it down. Glue works
well but cement failed due to operator error. Waldo I love your idea,
maybe Ill just drill a hole and put an airlock in there!


----------



## grapeman

Don't forget to use the little black grommet Wade. Just do't push too hard on it or the grommet will fall in. I have an idea(I know .... dangerous....), paint the floor in the shape of a fermenter pail lid and along with the airlock and grommet it will look like you are making one HUGE batch under the floor.


----------



## jobe05

Hate to mention this wade, but do you think that to much water weakened the leveling cement? Would it be best to chip that out and do a do-over now than to wait till it gets harder and your in a finished room?


I hate working with any type of cement or concrete, can't do it! I have a small cement mixer that is a life saver but I can't get one load to come out the same as the last, so an even pour, like a side walk is out of the question for me....... a fence post can do.


----------



## Wade E

Thats exactly what happened jobe but I dont really care as it will be
okay once its tightened up. It was just meant to help keep it a little
more sanitary.


----------



## Trigham

Wade, for the small bubbles that stay in it afterwards instead of a small tear with a knife use a straight pin to release the air and u will never see the hole!


----------



## grapeman

You can also use a hypodermic needle to draw the air out. Then be sure to use a sealer over the hole. Works especially well on concrete floors for bubbles.


----------



## Wade E

Okay I pulled up the linoleum and fixed it by pulling it tight and
tacking down strips that will be hidden underneath sheetrock and base
molding. I also built my coutertop and stained the edges of it and
stained the cabinets that go with it and will pick up 1 more 12"cabinet
that will just fit in between the other 2. I wasnt sure if I was going
to be able to fit it until I cut the angle on the countertop to clear
the door but now that thats done I measured and will probably pick it
up tommorrow and stain that and the 2 entry doors.


----------



## Wade E




----------



## Wade E

Monday the electrical will be done and I can start getting some
sheetrock in but my truck goes in for servicing for brake calipers and
tranny check since reverse is slipping!



So Ill have to wait until I get it back to pickup the sheetrock unless my wife lets me put it atop her Cherokee.




*Edited by: wade *


----------



## grapeman

You are going to use that for making wine on? Looks pretty fancy! It's coming along nicely Wade.


----------



## bmorosco

coming along nice..


----------



## Wade E

Appleman, those were the cheapest cabinets there are believe it or not.
Unfinished oak was cheaper than any plain white cab, and the countertop
was1 that I got for free as I built it about a year ago for a friend
for his kitchen along with 6 others. He put them in his garage for a
week till I could get up there to install them as I had a wedding to go
to that weekend. During the week of waiting for the next weekend I was
mowing the lawn when I got a phone call from him saying that he just
pulled in to his garage and drove over them. Luckily only that 1 broke
and I remade it for just the cost of the laminate. I asked if he still
had it when I thought of doing this project and picked it up when I
went down to pick up all those bottles from the guy who posted that he
had them Up in Kent CT. whick turned out to be right around the corner
from my friends house. So all I had to do was cut the front laminate
edge off and cut the angle on it as thats where it was broken and apply
the oak to match the cabinets.


----------



## rgecaprock

*Wow, Wade, Fancy!!!!* 








*Edited by: rgecaprock *


----------



## jobe05

Come'n along nicely Wade


Transmissions use more fluid in reverse han forward, so it could be just low, or the pump is going, more than likely it's just filter and fluid breakdown, getting to thin.


----------



## Wade E

I actually filled it with a high tech racung fluid that was supposed to
be the best for helping these sit's but nothing. Im really hoping I
dont need a new tranny and that its just a filter or band or something
small.


----------



## NorthernWinos

Looking good Wade...keep Posting those Photos...we're all as excited as you are.


----------



## Trigham

Wade you are very handy, I wishI had your talents. Bu there is one thing I want to say *Hurry up already and finish* , I need *help with mine*!!


----------



## Wade E

Oh Trigham, Ive only just begun down there.I have to also do our new
bedroom and wine storage room down there. I just have to do the wine
room 1st as I have supplies everywhere in the house and need to get
started on 4 batches as we speak.


----------



## Wade E

Well I roughed in all the electrical today and and will have it all
wired tommorow. It took a little while as when I uncovered some of the
old boxes I found some wires that were pretty old ( fiber coated) which
were not up to my liking so I pulled them all and relaced them all the
way from the breaker box. Sheetrock is getting delivered on Wed. or
Thurs. then the fun begins.


----------



## Waldo

Don't nothing beat "doing it right the first time buddy". You are definately creating an envious wine making area. Great job !!


----------



## Michael Vino

Wade, Very nice work on the cabinets and counter top! I can visiona few glasses of vino being served...


I completed by basement remodel this spring. I thought... this is a three month night and weekend project........ well nine months later I was done... but not finished.


Now I have to build a wine rack, get that flat panel TV, more confortable furniture to relax with and the list keeps growing.


So remember this is a journey and will likely take a bit longer than planned. BUT you'll have one heck of a nice space to enjoy for many many years. Kudo's on the progress and continued success.


----------



## Wade E

Thanks Michael! Im in no rush for the rest of the basement and like you this is an after work and weekend project.


----------



## Wade E

Well my brother, the licenced electrician heard what I was doing and
demanded he helped to make sure it is done right which is who i learned
from and helped rough in the wiring the other day and said hed be back
yesterday to help finish. No show no call and called a few minutes ago
and asked me if I was expecting to see him today and I said no but what
happened yeterday. He is currently layed off and does nothing as we
speak(no side jobs). Kind of ticks me off as now I feel that I have to
wait for him as he asked to help. If he dont show up tommorow to finish
I will and its not going to be a pretty family sitution. Lesson learned
- just say no thanks next time. I have my sheetrock and would have had
this wiring already finished and done right as I know when Im over my
head as I will be when I get to the next area of the basement as I dont
know how many outlets can typically be run off 1 breaker safely and
thats when I would have called him over. Play the waiting game now!


----------



## Grant

Hi Wade


For me it always depends on a few things, what do I plan on running on the plug. If it is hi demand I have run a line for each plug, In Alberta the most you can have is 4 outlets per 15amp breaker. They must also be no further than 12' apart. An lighting fixture is also considered and outlet.


Grant


----------



## Wade E

It is going to be a bedroom and I dont know the code here as towns vary
much. I know I dont need a separate breaker for each outlet as it will
be 2 lights, 2 alarm clocks, a tv. I'll probaqbly run 2 breakers since
Im sure mt wife will want to run an air conditiner also.


----------



## grapeman

You should check the codes for this. A lot of areas are requiring Arc Fault breakers in bedrooms now for fire safety. Don't forget a smoke detector also with battery backup. New houses require interconnected smoke detectors with battery backup. I can't say for sure in your area, best to check local regulations.


----------



## NorthernWinos

Maybetry not toget the electric inspected when you are done...with all the building codes they might not allow a bedroom without an Egress window.


Some friends put a bedroom in a lower area of their house with a smaller window. When it came time to sell, one of the buyers couldn't get a loan unless they put in an Egress escape area...they did hammer out the cement wall and installed a larger window that opened like a little door and had a cement area outside like stairs...It was built so rain water couldn't flood it.


So, just call it an office if any permit people come around.....but every state is different with their building codes.


----------



## grapeman

That's a good point NW. Wade does have a walkout basement, so he may have a large enough window for that room anyway. Wade has worked construction long enough he probably already knows this? It's always best to be safe and go over rather than under when safety is involved.


----------



## Wade E

Im not getting it inspected as the town has been charging me for
a finished basement and central air and 3 fireplaces for 5 years before
we noticed and we just had it re-evaluated and had our taxes pro rated
because we have none of those (UNTIL NOW)! Not to mention that the
ceiling height is not code either so that might cause a problem. The
electrical is finally finished, now to play sheetrock man.


----------



## Wade E

Got the ceiling up all by myself and only took the 2 x 4 x 7' (T)
that I made to help lift the rock to the head once. Ouch, that
hurt!!!!!!!!!!!! Almost knocked me out!


----------



## Trigham

wade said:


> Got the ceiling up all by myself and only took the 2 x 4 x 7' (T) that I made to help lift the rock to the head once. Ouch, that hurt!!!!!!!!!!!! Almost knocked me out!




Phewwww



Thank god it hit something hard, lol Come on wade we wanna see the pictures step by step.


----------



## Wade E

Just for you Trigham, oh and you NW, okay and Jobe, oh and Applke, waldo, masta, oh okay all of you! 

Heres the wiring and also the 3rd cab in the middle.





Heres the green sheetrock (Water Resistant)! I saw jobes pic of his
wineroom and might steal his idea of the peg board backer wall! I will
sheetrock and paint first and just make a frame that sticks out enogh
to insert the pegs.






Thats not the light thats going up there (temp), I bought a 4" wrap-around but will wait to hang it until all taped and painted.


*Edited by: wade *


----------



## jobe05

Wade, I got your PM and you won't be stealing just my idea, I see a lot of wine makers who have done the same thing behind their work area. It does make it nice to hang things and organize everything. With all the new holders that you can buy these days that fit into peg board, your options for organization is almost endless. 


The room is really coming along well and I can't wait to see you in full swing in there, However! In one of the pics above, I see a what looks like a water line behind your wall. I think your going to regret not hooking up a cheap $30 laundry sink while you had the chance.


Are you just working on the wine room, or are all The rooms down there at this stage?*Edited by: jobe05 *


----------



## Wade E

I received some spare parts from work today from my boss today for
giving him a few bottles wine. These were left over from a job
taht were applied to the colonial side ( The side with balusters) of a
stringer. They are stain grade( real wood not pressed and glue
composite like alot of them are. They are White oak and probably apply
them to the top rail of the peg board frame. These are called Appliques
or stringer brackets when applied to the side of a stair.


----------



## Waldo

Awesome wade, they will look great wherever you choose to use them


----------



## NorthernWinos

WOW!!! It's all coming along so nicely...Keep those photos coming....this is almost as exciting as being there...this way we are all part of it....we all sure have given enough suggestions.


----------



## trashy

> install drainage pipes and process( small rocks under and above the pipes for the water to drain into the pieps)


Sounds like they installed a french drain. I was worried about relying on a sump pump alone until I read that part. Water pressure that is high enough to make a little spring fountain in your basement is probably high enough to completely heave your basement floor and/or walls. French drains are magical. 

I'm assuming that the ground around your home is level or even upslope on one or two sides?


----------



## Wade E

Trashy, the front yard is about 3' higher than the back amd they are 8" pipes that are cemented back over.


----------



## Trigham

WOW is Right!! The pictures say a thousand words Wade, Keep up the good work!!


----------



## bmorosco

looks great!!!!!!!!


----------



## Wade E

All walls that needed it were plastic covered and insulated. All
sheetrock was finished, taped , and 1st coat of compounded. I think I
drank 2 much coffee today as I also weed-wacked and mowd the yard today
also.


----------



## masta

Lookin good Wade and I see plenty of fermenting going on in there soon!


----------



## jsmahoney

Now, I am jealous! Wade you are a man within men! You start out a project and the determination you process is outstanding. IT is so nice to have a handy man in the family. And, speaking of family, since we are all family here, I could use some help with a few home modifications myself. Bring your family and come on out for a working vacation. Plenty of wine will be shared throughout the time, free meals, fresh country air, with just a few minor modifications!


----------



## NorthernWinos

Looking good...coffee is our friend when we need extra motivation...


----------



## Wade E

Js, dont be jealous, your welcome to come over anytime!


----------



## Trigham

Wade, I cant beleive how fast you have come to get to that step ,WOW. again. The plug in sockets are the same hight as the toggle switch, did u do that because of the counter or for another reason, or did you do that for all of them in the room.


----------



## Wade E

Yes, they are 4" above the counter top.


----------



## Wade E

Hopefully I can get around to sanding and applying 2nd coat of compound
tomorrow and sand that Tuesday and start priming. I would really like
to get some batches started this coming weekend whether I have trim up or not!


----------



## Wade E

2nd coat of compound is on and will sand and start priming tomorrow for sure! I hate sanding compound, yuck!


----------



## Wade E

Sanded again and had to do just a few touch ups but will be ready to
prime tonight. going with a pure white latex to be easier to clean and
brighten up the room not that I need as I bought a 4' wrap around with
4 light bulbs in it!



Hope I didnt go overboard with too much lighting but I hate a dim light.


----------



## grapeman

My wife always says I'm a little dim lit, or is that a big dim wit? Hmmmmm, now I can't remember.....


----------



## jobe05

Wade, A little trick that I did when we moved in to this dump was mix about a quart of joint compound with a gallon of white flate paint. This will thicken te paint to help fill those imperfection and is completely sandable. You can add more mud if you have some tough spots to do, like old wall paper etc...... Works like a charm to hide those small imperfections and still roll out smooth. 


By the way, I know it must be my computer settings or something, but I can't see any new pictures, May 12th was the last one I can see, I know you must have posted many more since then.................. sigh........*Edited by: jobe05 *


----------



## Wade E

It would look the same as it did on the 12th with the exception of more
coats of compound. It is all sanded and ready to prime in a little
while. Gotta let the dust settle as I just finished sanding all the
touch up spots.


*Edited by: wade *


----------



## Wade E

Heres one for you anyway right before priming. Oh and by
the way, there is running water but I wont use it and when I do I will
change that outlet to a gfci outlet.


----------



## Trigham

Coming along nicely indeed Wade, but whatI would like to know is how your getting away with only doing your wine room and not the rest of the basement at the same time lol, surely she must be catching on


----------



## Wade E

Cause she wants to get all my wine stuff out of everywhere else in the
house. I have 5 carboys in our bedroom along with 7 cases of wine and
all my supplies like k-meta, racking cane, about 30 various size bungs,
etc. And also 30 bottles of champagne that are riddling right now. In
my hall closet I have another 5 ceses of wine, in my sons closet I have
another 9 cases of wine. Under my kitchen table there is another 2
cases of wine. That is why I get to do the wine room 1st, the wine
storage next, then the bedroom last.


----------



## trashy

Holy crap Wade! 

And people thought my 4 batches in 9 months was bad....I was just trying to avoid a house full of wine like yours!


----------



## Trigham

wade said:


> Cause she wants to get all my wine stuff out of everywhere else in the house. I have 5 carboys in our bedroom along with 7 cases of wine and all my supplies like k-meta, racking cane, about 30 various size bungs, etc. And also 30 bottles of champagne that are riddling right now. In my hall closet I have another 5 ceses of wine, in my sons closet I have another 9 cases of wine. Under my kitchen table there is another 2 cases of wine. That is why I get to do the wine room 1st, the wine storage next, then the bedroom last.




Wade , 


sorry pal u just need more freinds to come over and visit and help u with all thosecases




, Ill offer my assistance anytime!


By the way what is a bung? and does riddling mean racking in champagne terms?


Thanks
Trig


----------



## Wade E

A bung is the rubber thing you put in the top of your carboy and insert
the airlock into. Riddling is when your making champagne and have
sediment in your bottles from adding sugar and yeast to carbonate each
bottle and after a few months you flip them upside down and give each
bottle a twist and a tap to get all the sediment into the champagne
cork. After this is done you move onto Degorging in which you actually
put the upside bottles in the freezer and freeze it just until the neck
freezes up and then pop it open and shoot out the frozen plug
(sediment) and use 1 bottle to top off all the rest and then cork em
all back up to regain carbonation. It is a long process and this is my
first time and they are due to degorge but will wait as Im a little
busy with other stuff.


----------



## Wade E

My wife is the painter and she primed last night with the door open. I
think there is a bug stuck to the primer every 3". I sanded all the
bugs out and hopefully can get a coat of paint on tonight but thats up
to her. She loves painting and I hate painting. I hate sanding to but
she wont go for that 1!


----------



## PeterZ

SWMBO gets the spontaneous urge to paint, but I try to stop her, as she gets paint everywhere. It's easier to do it myself than to clean up after her.


----------



## Wade E

I hear ya there Peter. She called me at work today asking how to get
all the primer she got on herself off. I then wondered how much she got
on my floor. Well I told her that petroleum jelly takes off paints and
primers pretty good. As for the floor, she didnt do too bad!


----------



## jobe05

Same here...... My wife is painting our Bathroom.............


She started it 3 years ago........................... sigh.......................


----------



## grapeman

Jobe, that sounds like that show that used to be on years ago with the live in painter who was taking forever to paint thinsgs. What was that show- Murphy Brown?


----------



## Wade E

Alright appleman, hand over your man-card!




*Edited by: wade *


----------



## Wade E

Got 1 coat of paint on last night and will do another tonight and that
will suffice. Then its cabinet installing time, then wine-making
time!











*Edited by: wade *


----------



## docbee

What a major change from the first pic. Very impressive.
Soon the fermenting will take over the room.






Great job!!!


----------



## geocorn

I don't like to paint! In fact, I have a pre-nuptial agreement that states that "I do not have to paint!" To me, re-plumbing the entire housewould be a lot more fun than painting. I do enjoy wall papering and carpentry, but painting is just not for me.


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## bmorosco

Definately with George on that one!! No paint clause!!!!


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## PeterZ

George, I don't enjoy painting, either, but I enjoy cleaning up after SWMBO less. That being said, my last big painting job was when we moved into this house. We had a week before we had to move out of the old house, and we wanted to paint the open living/dining room area (~500 sq. ft. with 9 - 12' ceilings) and install hardwood floors.

Went to Lowe's and bought 5 gallons of paint (SWMBO's choice of color) and a pallet of composit prefinished glue down hardwood flooring. Alex (16 yo son at the time) and I pulled up the carpet and stored it in the attic. It was in pretty good condition and the carpet is the same throughout the house, so I saved it for spares. 

I taped and painted in two days, and the whole time SWMBO was there to talk to. We had a great time. She kept offering to help, and I kept declining the offer.

Putting down 500+ sqft of 3" x 4' T&amp;G wood strips in 5 days was a cast iron b!tch. I worked about 16 hours/day, and finished at about 9 PM the night before the movers were coming. I left the new house, stopped at a steakhouse between old house and new house (about 7 miles) and had two Beefeater martinis - straight up, no olive.

My legs were sore for a week.


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## Wade E

I hate painting and am no good at it, as is my wife and that is why we
need another coat. We have 2 coats of primer and 1 coat of ultra-hide
paint and I can still see the green drywall bleeding through!




I will do the rest of the basement unless this coat comes out much
better as I picked up some 1/4" nap rollers instead of the 1/2" nap
that she grabbed. Picked up all the trim for the room tonight also
which is colonial pine in which I will stain to match the doors and
cabs although the cabs are oak and the doors are luan so they may not
exactly match but I was not up to spending that much money on oak.


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## NorthernWinos

So Wade...what does the other side of the room look like???


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## jobe05

Northern Winos said:


> So Wade...what does the other side of the room look like???




I think it's a stage set, ............... what you see in the pics is what he's got!


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## Wade E

The other side is the furnace! It will be nice and warm in there!




My wife just finished painting and right now it looks much better but
you can still see some spots where it was taped on the ceiling but I
dont care. The 4' wrap- around light will cover most of it anyway.
*Edited by: wade *


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## Wade E

Okay I still need to stain the trim and poly that and put another coat
of poly on the front edge of the countertop but other than that its
done. Will probably start some wine tomorrow.











And for NW, the otherside of the room, the furnace!


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## NorthernWinos

Looks really nice Wade...thanks for showing us the other side of the room.


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## Trigham

Wade very nice, when canI move in



, honestly though very nice job



I just went back over all the pics from the beginning and WOW its incredible what a lot of hard work and effort can accomplish, kudos to you man. Now fill it up and keep the pictures coming.!!


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## Waldo

Looking mighty fine there buddy. I know you are proud of it and it will make your wine making experience so much more enjoyable. Again, great job Wade.


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## jobe05

Wade: GREAT JOB! Thats a awesome area to make wine. I know you have been looking forward to having that space for a long time.


I wish I had seen the furnace area before, you really need to run a PVC pipe from the out side to the burner area to insure that you have enough air in the immediate area to satify the burners needs. With the door closed, you may not have enough air in the room to have an efficient heater. Something to think about.


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## jsmahoney

Really looking nice!


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## masta

jobe05 said:


> Wade: GREAT JOB! Thats a awesome area to make wine. I know you have been looking forward to having that space for a long time.
> 
> 
> I wish I had seen the furnace area before, you really need to run a PVC pipe from the out side to the burner area to insure that you have enough air in the immediate area to satisfy the burners needs. With the door closed, you may not have enough air in the room to have an efficient heater. Something to think about.




jobe has a great point here about the air supply to the burner as I have seen this problem before. Youwould be very surprised as to volume of air required for the furnace when it is running.


May I alsostrongly suggestgetting a carbon monoxide detector for the room also since a small leak of exhaust fumes could be a serious or worst case fatalproblem you want to avoid.


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## Wade E

Thanks everyone, above the furnace where the floor joists are I left
the sheetrock off the ceiling and there is plenty of air flow through
there but if needed I will install louvers on the wall behind the
furnace. As for the carbon mon. detector I have already thought about
it and will install 1 as soon as I go to the store and actually
remember to pick it up!


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## masta

Sounds like you got it covered and great job on the room!


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## grapeman

I would say that room is just about done!



All you need is all your stuff in it, 18 batches in primary and 32 in secondaries and bulk aging! Oh and how about a chair, just to sit down once in a while and have a nice glass of wine and enjoy the fruits of your labors.


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## Wade E

Hopefully Ill get some time to get a batch going in the next day or 2.


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## Wade E

Batches ready to go under the top and a blueberry melomel Im getting
ready to start way to late but my wife wants the blueberries out of the
freezer! Plus Im dying to get back into action.


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## JWMINNESOTA

Looking great Wade, Now Have Fun!


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## Trigham

wade said:


> Batches ready to go under the top and a blueberry melomel Im getting ready to start way to late but my wife wants the blueberries out of the freezer! Plus Im dying to get back into action.


Wade would U mind listing the things u have on that table and their uses, I see Wymans juices and Berries, do u know that they are produced here where I live on PEI. The plant Manager is personal friend of mine hmmmmm I wonder maybe I should phone my old buddy to say hello!!!


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## NorthernWinos

Wade...it looks like your dream has come true....Really nice!!!


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## rgecaprock

Nice room, wade...now you need a freezer down there to keep your stuff out of the ktichen freezer.


Really nice!!!!


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## Wade E

I need a small freezer as I have a big 1 but not worth firing it up for
4 big bags of blueberries! I need a small one but will keep it for now
for deghorging the champagne then sell it.


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## jobe05

wade said:


> I need a small freezer




Dude.................. Just go for it, the big one......................


Ya know whats going to happen when you can get a space to hide stuff............ Your going to start sneaking in bags of Sams club fruit......................


Get the big one!


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## Wade E

I have the big 1 and its only 1 1/2 years old, just havent been using
it. Trig, those contents are listed under my Blueberry Melomel post.


*Edited by: wade *


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## Wade E

Trim is up, smoke and carbon monoxide detector is up and the iron
curtain is exposed. Behind that is a new oil tank. The old 1 was right
were my countertop is and was in need of replacing. It was in a really
bad spot for it even before we had any plans of this room. It stuck out
from where you come off the stairs.


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## Trigham

Wade, what is that red thing on the counter to the left of the primary it looks like it is ashrink wrapsealer or paper towel holder??



oh ya and The black thing at the other end is what?


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## NorthernWinos

You need more clutter in there....some awards on the wall...etc.


If you have any of that vinyl flooring material left that stuff is great for lining the shelves and maybe even a nice washable back splash above the counter top.
Wish I had that area.


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## Wade E

The red thing is a shrink wrapper which I just purchased from George
and have not used yet. The black thing is my camara case (Oops) My wife
came home with a paper towel holder from KMart which broke as soon as I
unpackeged it and spread it open to insert paper towels into.




NW, Im gonna do the peg board eventually behind there so i can hang some things up and get them outta my drawers.


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## Trigham

wade said:


> The red thing is a shrink wrapper which I just purchased from George and have not used yet. The black thing is my camara case (Oops) My wife came home with a paper towel holder from KMart which broke as soon as I unpackeged it and spread it open to insert paper towels into.
> 
> 
> 
> NW, Im gonna do the peg board eventually behind there so i can hang some things up and get them outta my drawers.




Gosh I sure miss Kmart. we dont have them anymore up here. I always buy my hunting supplies in there cheap, whenI go to Maine. They are great to take things back and replace if I remember correctly. What would you use a shrink wrap for Wade if I may ask. The green gallon jug is filled with what If i may ask as well? Gosh I feel liek a kid in a candy store!! so many questions.


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## rgecaprock

Wade,


Can't wait until you get in there and start slopping things up a bit. Very nice, very neat and clean looking. Do you have access to a sink down there?.....Have you made a batch of wine there yet?


Love it!!!! Ramona


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## Wade E

Ramona I have 3 batches going already, would have more but thats all
the primaries I have at the minute but I just purchased another 7.9 off
George and it will be shipping tomorrow along with some chems. 


Trig, the shrink wrapper is for the capsules on the tops of the wine bottles and the green gallon contains K-Meta.


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## Trigham

wade said:


> Ramona I have 3 batches going already, would have more but thats all the primaries I have at the minute but I just purchased another 7.9 off George and it will be shipping tomorrow along with some chems.
> Trig, the shrink wrapper is for the capsules on the tops of the wine bottles and the green gallon contains K-Meta.




Wade forgive me maybe I didnt understand but why would you need to shrink wrap the toppers?? or do u pak them for george or for resale??


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## Wade E

The capsules on the tops of wine bottles that go on over the corks are heat shrinked on.


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## grapeman

wade said:


> NW, Im gonna do the peg board eventually behind there so i can hang some things up and get them outta my drawers.




There you go again Wade with the dirty talk. Better keep those things IN your drawers. Let em hang where they be.


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## Wade E

I dont have those anymore appleman, my wife took em a long time ago!


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## Trigham

wade said:


> The capsules on the tops of wine bottles that go on over the corks are heat shrinked on.




Thanks Wade I understoodthe capsule for the top of the bottles but i was thinking of a plastic shrink wrap like you would find on a CD or packageing around an item from a store. I presume its a machine you put your bottle with loose capsule in and it heats it down like hot water would. very nice if so!!


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## Wade E

Thats it trig. ant wait to try it out on a batch of bottles.


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## Trigham

wade said:


> Thats it trig. ant wait to try it out on a batch of bottles.


Wade do you put one bottle in at a time or can u do more? I love gadjets butI better bottle one batch first, before I get to crazy ,my wife wants to know when the four, 5 gal batchesI have going will be ready . Im talking about more and she says ummmm why.... I said cause I can


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## Wade E

1 at a time and this toy was pretty expensive. I hear ya on the batches
going as my wife tells me to slow down on making wine as we have so
much and its not going to fast. I say Im trying to age it but truth is
I like my wine but prefer making it over drinking it. Its so much fun
to make.


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## Grant

Well Wade, AS you cannot drink all that you are willing to make, I think that you have two choices


1. Send me what you don;t think you can drink 


2. Have your own Winestock




Grant


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## Trigham

Grant said:


> Well Wade, AS you cannot drink all that you are willing to make, I think that you have two choices
> 
> 
> 1. Send me what you don;t think you can drink
> 
> 
> 2. Have your own Winestock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grant







WHOOOAAA HOLD on there Grant, Im wades new best freindhere, and if he needs help with all those bottles, Im THE MAN



. soo back off beforeI get myfriends to fix you up



!!!


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## Wade E

Anybody who wants to come over is free to drink all they can drink!


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## Trigham

And here all this time I thought I was special



!


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## Wade E

Oh dont worry trig, youre special alright!


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## cindyjo

I am not far from Middlebury ( Northern Jersey ) and I love CT as I went to college there. When can I come over Wade??


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## Wade E

Anytime cindyjo, call ahead seating required to make sure Im home. Plenty of wines to chose from too!


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## Wade E

I told you Id get the volcano and that youd just have to wait. Well your waiting is over!









It catches me off guard every time.


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## Wade E

Okay, now I have to make racks for all my empties in my winemaking area
and then start phase 2 which is the wine cellar area. I have it already
framed this room and most of the bedroom during downtime when I was
witing to get the special switch for my winemaking area. Below are
pictures of the area designated for the cellar which already has most
of my wine sitting in boxes or crates for easy moving . I just had to
get them into the basement as it was starting to get warm upstairs. In
this corner it stays at a pretty consistant 66* with a humidity of 76%.















*Edited by: wade *


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## Wade E

It is approximately 10' x 8' and has a 45* angle at the door and houses
the water tank, breaker box and the generator emergency breaker box.
The freezer will not be in this room but is now just to keep it out of
the way until I get the racks for the empties done. Right now I have
300 bottles which are all delabeled that need to go in my winemaking
area.


*Edited by: wade *


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## rgecaprock

Did that stain your tile, linoelum?*Edited by: rgecaprock *


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## Wade E

Cleaned up like nothing. I better be a little more careful with the
blueberry though as thats a much darker wine and may not have the same
result!


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## Trigham

Thanks for the pics wade, how many straws did u give out to get that cleaned up lol. 


P.S. I didnt get a call or a straw!!






lol


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## Wade E

Trig, you need a longer straw!


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## NorthernWinos

1st......Now you just have to dégorge your sparkling wine in there and get the walls broke in too.


2nd...where do you shop to get those little baskets your storing your wine in??? And how do you get them out of the store???


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## Trigham

I just realized



those bottles are all filled, what did u say your address was again Wade??


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## Wade E

I have a friend who works at a grocery store called Big-Y in which he
gives me some every once in awhile(when my new batch is done)





Trig Ill give you my address but then Im holding you to your word that you have to come over and drink some!



And by the way trig, thats not all of them!






*Edited by: wade *


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## PeterZ

wade,

Your volcano is why I always put the carboy on an old bath towel before degassing.


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## Wade E

I keep saying to myself that this one will be the one that will not do this!


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