# Primary fermentation air lock or not?



## MrBoring (Jan 13, 2011)

Hello, New to wine making in just the past week. Is it normal to use an air lock on a primary fermentation bucket or use a lid without one? Seems some recipes specifically state to cover and attach air lock while others say just to cover.

Thanks.


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## abefroman (Jan 13, 2011)

MrBoring said:


> Hello, New to wine making in just the past week. Is it normal to use an air lock on a primary fermentation bucket or use a lid without one? Seems some recipes specifically state to cover and attach air lock while others say just to cover.
> 
> Thanks.



You might want to add an airlock at the end of primary, personally I don't use one.


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## RedNeckWino (Jan 13, 2011)

I second the no.....but many here will say yes. If its a kit with the instructions, best to follow those. And welcome to the forum.


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## JohnT (Jan 14, 2011)

I third the motion for the following reasons ....

1) Primary fermentation is rather aggressive. At its peak, you could run the risk of having the trap blow off. Just picture a miniture version of Mt St. Hellens. 

2) The amount of C02 produced normally forms a protective blanket over the must. This is due to the fact that CO2 is heavier than air. as a result, all you really need is to cover the primary with a sheet of plastic. 

3) The amount of heat generated by fermentation can be excessive. By undergoing an "open fermentation", heat disappates better and this helps to slow the fermentation (which I find is a good thing).


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## MrBoring (Jan 15, 2011)

Thanks to everyone for your input. Funny that the wine making equipment kit I purchased came with hole drilled and casket installed for an airlock in the bucket lid. Perhaps the sellers favor always using an airlock. Should I plug it or just leave it open?


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## Runningwolf (Jan 15, 2011)

Leave it alone. Usually the instructions with kits want you to lock the lid down and add an air lock. The fermentation is not as rigorous. When making wine with fresh fruit you'll see a lot more action. You can just lay the lid on the bucket without snapping it down. This'll do the same as the plastic John is talking about.


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## phermenter (Jan 15, 2011)

MrBoring said:


> Thanks to everyone for your input. Funny that the wine making equipment kit I purchased came with hole drilled and casket installed for an airlock in the bucket lid. Perhaps the sellers favor always using an airlock. Should I plug it or just leave it open?



There are times you'll want an airlock. Some kits, particularly some RJ Spagnols, have you ferment to completion in the bucket, That means for the last week to 10 days, it's not producing much gas to protect it. Other times, you're only fermenting in the bucket for a week, but you can tell it mostly done in 4 or 5 day. When I'm past the real active fermentation, I like to airlock it.

Jim


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## djrockinsteve (Jan 15, 2011)

In addition to the other above posts yeast are a living breathing organism. By adding an air lock (with exception to the very end of fermentation) you will starve the yeast from oxygen, causing themn to stress. You will also not be stirring your must several times a day thus stressing your yeasts and create a CO2 volcano later on.

Stressed yeasts can and will eventually begin to give off a sulfite smell and further along stall.

For any kit follow the directions but still consider all the posibilities, pors and cons.


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## GrandpasFootsteps (Jan 15, 2011)

Hi! I had the same question with my first kit - the VR Reisling. My local home brew supply store sold me the wine making kit that included the primary bucket with a small hole in the lid and the stopper and airlock. I made my first kit, snapped that sucker down tight and put on the airlock. Then I came here and read that most people don't do that. *So I called Wine Experts on their 800 number to ask them. A very knowledgeable woman answered the phone and told me that I should not firmly cover the kit, leave the lid loose only to keep bugs and pet hair out of it, or cover it with a towel only*. Also, best to leave on the airlock to block that hole from pests. If it needs to release pressure or CO2 build up, it will with a loose lid.


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## okwine39 (Jan 15, 2011)

How do you know when the primary fermentation is over? Is it strictly a timing thing i.e. 10-14 days or what? I have been doing a lot of research but cant seem to find an answer to this question?


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## abefroman (Jan 15, 2011)

okwine39 said:


> How do you know when the primary fermentation is over? Is it strictly a timing thing i.e. 10-14 days or what? I have been doing a lot of research but cant seem to find an answer to this question?



1. You need a hydrometer
2. You have a judgement call, are you going to dry in your primary? That will take longer than if you plan to slow fermentation.
3. Usually it will be 3-7 days


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## okwine39 (Jan 15, 2011)

I have a lot to learn that is for sure. Good thing I can drink the results hopefully anyway


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## Julie (Jan 16, 2011)

Once your wine reaches 1.010, you should either rack into a carboy and add an airlock or snap down the lid on the primary and add an airlock.


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## Wiz (Jan 16, 2011)

I make only fruit wines. Right or wrong, after pitching the yeast I just leave the lid loose on top but still stir twice a day. Usually, after a day the wine is fermenting actively and I put the lid on tight and add an airlock. Never had a problem.


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## Runningwolf (Jan 16, 2011)

Hey Wiz do you ever experiment with putting coffee beans in your wine?


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## phermenter (Jan 16, 2011)

okwine39 said:


> How do you know when the primary fermentation is over? Is it strictly a timing thing i.e. 10-14 days or what? I have been doing a lot of research but cant seem to find an answer to this question?



In short, it's your hydrometer, not your calendar, that tells you when you are ready to rack from primary to secondary, and when you are ready to declare fermentation complete. (I brewed a few beers before accepting that I needed a hydrometer; if you don't have one, you really should get one (a whopping 5 bucks? and learn to use it.)

We're still not sure from MrBoring's question whether he's using a kit or some other "recipe," but a kit will tell you what gravity to look for before moving on to the next stage.

Jim


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## Wiz (Jan 16, 2011)

Dan, I follow all the posts about coffee wine but I have to say that coffee wine sounds really nauseous to me. That's not to say that we don't enjoy our daily really excellent coffee here. A local sayig is that Juan Valdez drinbks Costa Rican coffee.


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## wvbrewer (Jan 17, 2011)

I thought my other answer was to long and from the first sit I pulled up. I found this on Jack Kellars website.

The timing of the transfer has long been the subject of debate. In most of the 20th century, the commonly accepted procedure was to ferment for three to five days and then transfer regardless of specific gravity. The set number of days was usually arrived at by averaging the time it took to ferment enough sugar to reduce the specific gravity to between 1.050 to 1.030. The idea was to get the wine under airlock so it could begin a true anaerobic fermentation, or fermentation without access to oxygen. The reason for this is because this is when the yeast converts sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide while extracting energy from the transformation. More recently, it was discovered that yeast create a micro-anaerobic environment around themselves as they submerge by using whatever oxygen atoms are trapped in the spaces between molecules surrounding them. Only when they float up to the surface are the possibly exposed to oxygen, and after the first 48-72 hours atmospheric oxygen has been replaced with carbon dioxide created by fermentation. Thus, the old idea of getting the wine under airlock quickly to create an anaerobic environment was shown to be mostly irrelevant and a new practice was adopted.

Today the accepted practice is to keep the wine in the primary until the vigorous fermentation subsides. This normally occurs at around specific gravity 1.010. As the vigorous fermentation subsides, the production of carbon dioxide slows considerably and oxygen is able to migrate down through it to the surface of the wine. Free sulfur dioxide still protects much of the surface wine from absorbing oxygen, but sulfur dioxide is a gas and slowly escapes the wine. The intermolecular spaces vacated by the sulfur dioxide are filled either with carbon dioxide rising through the wine or by oxygen scavenged from the atmosphere by the wine -- a natural ocurrance. So, as the vigorous fermentation subsides, the wine becomes more vulnerable to oxygen uptake. This is the best time to transfer the wine to secondary.

I found this to be a better answer. Take a look at his site is has a lot good infomation.

Dave


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