# First Mead



## E_Feythaelas (Jan 26, 2015)

SO I started my first 1 gallon batch of mead on the 15th. The OG was 1.11. The primary is still bubbling, but I've no idea when I should rack it off the lees. 
Any suggestions for a gravity reading? 

I used 3 lbs of clover, ec-1118, 1 tsp of nutrient and energizer. 1/2 the first day 1/2 the second day.


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## WVMountaineerJack (Jan 27, 2015)

So what kind of container are you using for your primary? If we are using an open bucket I usually aim for anytime its less then 1.020 or lower, depending on work schedule. If you are fermenting in a jug you can wait until it stops and most of the yeast have fallen to the bottom but not necessarily clear. You dont usually want your mead setting on the first bunch of yeast that fall out, the gross lees, for an extended period of time, afterwards when you get only a little bit of yeast falling out it doesnt matter so much how long. Your EC1118 is very strong fermenting yeast, a good choice for your first one, it also packs down well at the end of the primary fermentation making it easier to rack. WVMJ


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## seth8530 (Jan 27, 2015)

The trouble with small batches and mead is that it takes so long to age, it is hard to argue it is worth your while if only doing a gallon. However, for just giving it a try I suppose this will work.


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## E_Feythaelas (Jan 27, 2015)

WVMJ- I am using a jug, so I'll just wait till it mostly stops bubbling. It had slowed tremendously. I've got another one gallon jug to rack it into. 

Seth- I'm very new to this whole thing. I've got a 6 gallon batch of red going at the moment so that's taking up most of my efforts. I figured a 1 gallon batch of mead you be alright to start. My next one will be a little bigger and more adventurous 

Thank you both for your help!


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## seth8530 (Jan 27, 2015)

Yup,

When you start getting a grasp on how this all works, I would recommend you read about scheduled nutrient additions and figure out about doing cool fermentations. Both of these techniques can lead to very aromatic meads.


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## Deezil (Jan 28, 2015)

Then when you've comprehended SNA's and cool ferments, you can start tinkering with more uncommon/demanding yeasts, and additives like Booster Blanc and Opti-White


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## E_Feythaelas (Jan 28, 2015)

I've started reading a bit about the SNA's. Cool ferments is a new one to me. I've seen referenced "cold crashing". What gives? Does it just help with clearing, or?


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## Deezil (Jan 28, 2015)

Cool fermentations and cold crashing are two different things.

Cool ferments will keep the yeast from getting so rambunctious, preserving some of the more delicate aromatics, as well as keeping the heat of the fermentation itself from altering the overall flavor of the wine/mead too much. It keeps it more in line with what the juice tasted like originally, where a warmer fermentation can lead to a more cooked fruit flavor or let the yeast have a larger impact on light-flavored wines and meads. It also draws the fermentation out longer being cooler, but if you're working with grapes or fruit, it won't have the same color and tannin extraction that you'd get with a warmer ferment.

Cold crashing is a technique used to lower acidity and/or help a wine clear. It involves dropping the temp of the wine down near freezing for several days in order to precipitate out tartaric acid, mostly.


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## mmadmikes1 (Jan 29, 2015)

Mead heads LOLOL. We should have shirts


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