# Air Locks?



## mtbryda203 (Feb 9, 2013)

I notice that there are two different types. The S type and the 3 piece. What is the difference and what one would you prefer


----------



## cohenhouse77 (Feb 9, 2013)

I like the three piece types personally. They are easier to clean and control for me. I also like the sound of the three piece air locks. They are a symphony in my wine room. I keep a spray bottle of k-meta solution and weekly can spritz new solution into the airlock without removing it.


----------



## vacuumpumpman (Feb 9, 2013)

I personally like the 3 piece when going thru fermenation - because they are easier to clean. But for bulk aging I prefer the S- shaped, because I can look at them at a glance and make sure that there is a difference of pressure in the carboy. That tells me that I have a working and a tight fitting air lock and less chance of my wine being spoiled by air.

I hope that helps you.


----------



## mtbryda203 (Feb 9, 2013)

vacuumpumpman said:


> I personally like the 3 piece when going thru fermenation - because they are easier to clean. But for bulk aging I prefer the S- shaped, because I can look at them at a glance and make sure that there is a difference of pressure in the carboy. That tells me that I have a working and a tight fitting air lock and less chance of my wine being spoiled by air.
> 
> I hope that helps you.



how can u tell the difference in pressure?


----------



## vacuumpumpman (Feb 9, 2013)

The fluid in the S shaped air lock will typicall never be at the same level - if they are you proubly have a leak. When the pressure changes in the carboy or temperature increases it will expand the wine - causing less head space forcing the airlock to be uneven and it goes for the same in the opposite direction as well.


----------



## mtbryda203 (Feb 9, 2013)

Thanks I notice what u mean now. I thought I had done something wrong


----------



## DoctorCAD (Feb 9, 2013)

3 types...I just got a few dry airlocks. Look like a silicone stopper with a silicone flap ofer some vent holes. Gas can get out but air cant get back in. I will try one on my next batch.


----------



## Rocky (Feb 9, 2013)

Personally, I like the S-shape because I can see what is going on at a glance. Also, it has been my experience that the 3-piece tends to dry up faster than the S-shape. I understand that the S-shape is harder to clean, but I figure, choose your poison. I do agree with vacuumpumpman that the 3-piece is good for primary and secondary fermentation, but not for bulk aging.


----------



## Bailey (Feb 9, 2013)

I have both. The 3 piece fits into my base cabinet better for bulk aging. The S type does show pressure difference better though. Either works, both are simple, get a few of each - it's a good excuse to get another carboy to fit under each one.


----------



## Runningwolf (Feb 9, 2013)

Rocky said:


> Personally, I like the S-shape because I can see what is going on at a glance. Also, it has been my experience that the 3-piece tends to dry up faster than the S-shape. I understand that the S-shape is harder to clean, but I figure, choose your poison. I do agree with vacuumpumpman that the 3-piece is good for primary and secondary fermentation, but not for bulk aging.


 
Dang Rocky you took the words right out of my mouth again. I agree with everything he said. I only use s type.


----------



## Pumpkinman (Feb 10, 2013)

I have to agree with the S-shape, at a glance, I can see the difference in pressure.


----------



## jimmyjames23 (Feb 10, 2013)

4th type. 

There's also a "bong" type where a 1/4 line feeds into a jar with water. The advantage is you can run several lines from several Demi's into one jar. Often called a "poor mans airlock". 

But I prefer the S type.


----------



## Tripplett (Feb 10, 2013)

I have mostly better bottles and I have to say I'm digging these dry locks. They are expensive but I bought most of my BB stuff on Black Friday during sales. I've also run some tests with these air locks. First I ran a line from the dry lock into a ziplock bag of water taped to the carboy. Then I lifted the bottle by the neck. There was no back pull at all. I don't know if I would trust them for bulk aging without running lines into water but for primary and initial secondary I'm digging them. Until I have something fail I see no reason to change what's working. 

I do have both the other types and for me I prefer the 3 piece.


----------



## tonyt (Feb 10, 2013)

DoctorCAD said:


> 3 types...I just got a few dry airlocks. Look like a silicone stopper with a silicone flap ofer some vent holes. Gas can get out but air cant get back in. I will try one on my next batch.



These are called fermenting bungs. I use them on barrels. I use three part on carboys and hate the S type because if the cleaning issue.


----------



## Rocky (Feb 10, 2013)

tonyt said:


> These are called fermenting bungs. I use them on barrels. I use three part on carboys and hate the S type because if the cleaning issue.


 
I truly respect your views, Tony, but I don't understand why so many people cite "cleaning issues" with the S-type airlock. I wash mine out with hot water, make sure the cap and outside clean and I don't worry too much about the inside. When I assemble them in a stopper, I spritz the stopper and the airlock with k-meta solution. In operation, it has a strong k-meta (3 T/gallon of water) solution in it so it seems to me it would be like worrying about growing bacteria in a bottle of alcohol. What am I missing?


----------



## dralarms (Feb 10, 2013)

I love the s locks, I keep mine soaking in k-meta, a quick shake and fill with water and I'm ready to go.


----------



## tonyt (Feb 10, 2013)

Rocky said:


> I don't understand why so many people cite "cleaning issues" with the S-type airlock.


I don't know Rocky, I guess I just find it hard to shake all the K-Meta solution out of the S type to replace with fresh. Then I think (erroneously I now understand) that the water level should always be even in the two bubbles or something must be wrong. I'll swap out an S type today and give it another try. So when the level is uneven do you thump it to get it back even or leave it alone?


----------



## Rocky (Feb 10, 2013)

The uneven level indicates that the pressure is greater on one side or the other. It does not bother me but it is good to know that there is either pressure coming from inside the carboy or from outside the carboy. When the levels are even, i.e. indicating that there is equal pressure, it could indicate that the stopper is loose and leaking air.


----------



## tonyt (Feb 10, 2013)

Thanks Rocky, too bad I slept through Physics, ask me something about marketing.


----------



## jimmyjames23 (Feb 10, 2013)

When the water levels are uneven it means your wine is gassing co2/so2 and the s lock is working properly. When the two cylinders are both level it means your wine has stopped producing gasses. 
This is the number one reason I like the s lock. It's very easy to see when your wine is done or ready for the next step.


----------



## Rocky (Feb 10, 2013)

jimmyjames23 said:


> When the water levels are uneven it means your wine is gassing co2/so2 and the s lock is working properly. When the two cylinders are both level it means your wine has stopped producing gasses.
> This is the number one reason I like the s lock. It's very easy to see when your wine is done or ready for the next step.


 
Jimmy, you are right that an even level could indicate that there is no CO2 being produced and that fermentation is complete. The levels of the liquid in the airlock could also indicate changes in temperature and/or barometric pressure. When I see that my levels are even, the first thing I do is check to see that the stopper is on tightly.

Good discussion here, Friends.


----------



## jimmyjames23 (Feb 10, 2013)

Agreed. 

I forgot to mention the loose bung issue. I often see loose airlocks when people apply them still wet with k meta. The interior neck and stopper should be dry for best results. 
Regarding dirty airlocks. What are you guys getting in your airlocks that gets them so filthy? 
I just boil some water in a kettle and drop them in when the kettle clicks off. Clean.


----------



## dralarms (Feb 10, 2013)

jimmyjames23 said:


> Agreed.
> 
> I forgot to mention the loose bung issue. I often see loose airlocks when people apply them still wet with k meta. The interior neck and stopper should be dry for best results.
> Regarding dirty airlocks. What are you guys getting in your airlocks that gets them so filthy?
> I just boil some water in a kettle and drop them in when the kettle clicks off. Clean.



Overflow most of the time.


----------



## btom2004 (Feb 10, 2013)

Do they have an overflow issue?

I just didn't like the way they looked, thus I never purchased any. However after reading these posts I may get a few.


----------



## jimmyjames23 (Feb 10, 2013)

Sorry. I forgot about overflow. Overflow will effect any airlock despite its design. I avoid overflow by dividing my must into 2 buckets. Each full 3/4 when I pitch the yeast. 
I then wait a few days until the vigorous fermentation process has stopped (or slowed) and then recombine them into my Demi. 
WORD OF CAUTION!
If adding woodchips during your primary fermentation add them to the bucket first then add a small amount of must overtop as most woodchips (especially very fine French oak) produce a vigorous chemical reaction for about 20 minutes.


----------

