# new to beer kits



## uavwmn (Mar 24, 2008)

I may be interested in the "No Boil" beer kits. I have been told that the boiling process is smelly and messy. haha


Any suggestions on a "1st" beer kit for a beginner?
Thanks in advance~


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## masta (Mar 24, 2008)

The RJS Spagnols Brew House kits would be a great no-boil kit to start with and then you need to decide which one make based on what type of beer you like.


I have my first one in progress but after reading and studying on the info from RJS and feedback from others who have made these I know I will be pleased.


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## uavwmn (Mar 24, 2008)

Masta, as always, thank you for the quick answer. I will definitely take your advice.


Can I use the carboys I have with my wine kit? I will purchase a new primary bucket.


Can I use recycled twist off beer bottles?


And the RJS spagnols kits George carries?


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## masta (Mar 24, 2008)

Yes you can usethe same 6 gallon carboy that you use for wine. I strongly suggest getting a 7.9 gallon primary for making these kits because they do make up to 23L/6 gals.


You cannot recap twist off bottles!


George does carry the RJS Brew House kits and here are the links to the kits, tutorial that covers both the Brew House and Brewer's Best kits, and the info on RJ Spagnols site.


http://www.finevinewines.com/ProdBrewHouse.asp


http://www.finevinewines.com/Brew-House-Tutorial.htm


http://www.thebrewhouse.com/


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## uavwmn (Mar 24, 2008)

Masta, thanks for all the info, of which I plan to use.


So, I need recycled bottles that are NOT twist top bottles.


The Stout i would like to order has a stock # 2416. It shows "dried elderflowers". This does not seem to look correct.


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## smurfe (Mar 24, 2008)

I thought I would throw this out there for others about the bucket for a fermenter butI would advise to always use the 7.9 gallon bucket even for the 5 gallon batches. Some batches get a huge krausen depending on the yeast used. 


Good luck with the stout. That is my favorite beer style. Seriously consider obtaining the proper yeast to ferment your beer. I was actually quite impressed with the RJSwebsite where they tell you this exact fact. I would look for a White Labs WLP004 Irish Ale or Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale yeast. 


If you can't make starters get two tubes of the White Labs or if you get Wyeast, look for the Activator packs, not the Propagator packs. The Activator has enough yeast cells and a starter built in. You just smack the pack to break the inner seal, shake and wait for the yeast to start. I prefer to use two vials of White Labs though if I don't have time to make a starter. 


Oh, and BTW, there is not much better smelling than a boiling batch of wort! I do all grain batches so my precess in very different than you would experience with a no boil kit but just had to throw out there that I love the smell ofbeer/hops boiling in the morning. 


Also, it is only sticky/messy the first time or two you make a batch. Once you get your process down you make much much much less of a mess. I am anxious to hear others input on these kits. The process manufacturing these kits sounds very interesting. I have not been impressed with any of the regular extract/boil kits I have done although most swear by them. I think I must of made an error along the way as none would clear.




Mashing











Lautering








Boil








Boil Done, ready to move to fermenter


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## masta (Mar 24, 2008)

smurfe is right on with the larger primary and liquid yeast as much of the flavor comes from the correct yeast. Having the manufacturer telling you to change things and experiment is a new concept for us wine kit makers who always stress to follow the instructions exactly. There must be a real die-hard brewer working at RJS who has spent lots of time testing and providing some great info.



*Edited by: masta *


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## Wade E (Mar 24, 2008)

Smurf, how big of a batch do you have going in that keg that it is almost full?


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## smurfe (Mar 24, 2008)

That is a 10 gallon batch. Actually I just noticed that I posted the wrong pic. That is during the boil. There is around 12 gallons in that pot at that moment. After boil off, there will be about 10.5 gallons left.*Edited by: smurfe *


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## openbeerz (Feb 6, 2009)

I just read the tutorial that masta posted back in march,wish I would have seen it before I started my first two beer kits,now I see that on my first kit my mistake was to pour all the cooled wort into the primary solids and all,when I racked it to a glass carboy a week later I strained out all the solids,hope it turns out allright.On my second kit I boiled with the lid on half way now I see it's best to use no lid at all but at least I strained out the solids on the second kit.Boath kits are brewers best,do you think they have a chance


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## smurfe (Feb 7, 2009)

Yeah you don't want the lid on. Your goal is to boil some of the water out of the liquid to raise the sugar concentration levels aka your gravity.It is like when a chef reduces a sauce.If your lid wasn't on tight it ought to be fine as steam still escaped. 


In regards to the solids after the boil you transfered hop trub and probably hot break materials. That will fall out in the secondary. You may have a cloudy beer and you may have a bit lower alcohol content from boiling with a lid on but you know the best part of all of it? It will still be beer!


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