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Sugar and acidity help balance each other (like in a lemonade). So, you will need to adjust pH according to the sweetness of your f-pac. Taste will be a better indicator than pH in this situation. Fred

Catfish, Sounds good to me. Just add sulfite if you haven't already and rack off the sediment every 3 months or so. Best if aged 9-12 months.

Ask the dogs!:p Seriously, it's fine. The alcohol will kill any dog germs. Fred

Catfish, Did you read this part of the recipe?

Fruit wines often take longer to ferment than grape wines. If the temp is below 70F that will slow it up as well. Fred

Probably only necessary to the extent that yeast need O2 during fermentation and without sufficient exposure may produce H2S. Also, later during fermentation some yeast settle to the bottom and stirring helps to get them back into suspension and in contact with any suspended nutrient or sugar...

You can splash rack or aerate the wine to dissipate some of the SO2. Also, given enough time it will dissipate with aging. Ideally, you should invest in a SO2 test kit or instrument to know when the SO2 level has decreased enough without overdoing it and leaving the wine under protected. Fred

James, The degassing is to remove CO2, otherwise the wine will be bubbly and fizzy (as in beer). You're not trying to aerate the wine, but to get the CO2 out. After degassing you do need to avoid exposing the wine to air as much as possible by keeping it under an airlock and racking quickly...

If you have a freezer that you can set at ~25F, you can precipitate them in 2 weeks. Fred

Just add oak according to taste and desired oakiness. Fred

Abe, Re-inoculate with EC-1118, but this time hydrate the yeast with Go-Ferm if available to you. Also, you may want to add a small amount of wine to the yeast to form a slurry. Once the slurry is going well, add it to the wine. Fred

I agree in that if it were mine, I'd want at least some oak. The final amount will depend upon how much you like oak and the final acidity of the wine. In general, the more acid the wine, the less oak or other tannins. At pH 3.5 or higher, more oak is advised. You can add oak at any time, but...

Should be fermenting (airlock bubbling) vigorously. I think additional heat (brew belt) will help. Is the fermenter sitting on a cold surface like a concrete floor? If the heat doesn't help try re-inoculating w/EC-1118. Fred

Usually you want to wait 12 hours or more after sulfiting before adding enzyme. I think I would add pectic enzyme again when 12 hours or more has past just to avoid pectic haze forming later. Fred

I think it may be because it's been strained. Cap is formed when CO2 gets trapped underneath large particles and pushes them to the top. Don't worry. As long as the cap isn't drying out, it's not necessary to punch down. Stirring once or twice a day will help keep yeast and fruit in suspension...

You're right. I hadn't thought about cranberry sauce, but that's an indication boiling should be okay. Fred

Try freezing them. I'm not sure about cranberries, but with most other fruits freezing breaks down the cell structure, helps in seed extraction, and yields more juice. Heating may work also. Try chewing a few seeds to see how they taste. If they are astringent or bitter definitely don't...

I agree. It's likely one of these reasons. Knowing his beginning and ending s.g.'s, yeast he's using, and his fermentation temp should reveal the difference. Fred

Wade, Nice looking setup. Did you make the cart yourself or buy it? If you bought it, what brand is it?

Don, Welcome to the forum! I have never made this particular kit, but I have made quite a few C.C. amarones and cabs. Since you live in the Great White North and you say you'll ferment these in your basement, just be aware that you'll need to ferment these at 21-30C. White wines are usually...