I agree, start with a 'simple' extract kit that DOES NOT have you add a pound of corn sugar to the recipe.
Basically the better extract kits (liek Brewer's Best) will make better beers than the 'can and a pound' kits (such as Coopers).
separate primary bucket...glass secondary if you want to...
with the coffee filter straining and long aging, i wouldn't be surprised if it has gotten very oxidized. if it just tastes stale/bland/cardboardy...that's why.
beat me to it. there's NO way this wine is oxidized. Its still fermenting. its thrown off so much CO2 you'd have to put forth effort to keep oxygen in solution.
the sourness is all that CO2. carbonic acid. 4 day old wine should taste funky indeed.
Google harder...I've found a ton of wine rack plans. One used wide diameter PVC pipes, stacked inside a wooden box.
williams brewing has a new one thats... 50 bottles and not too expensive, pre-stained too. I think I'm gonna get it cuz I'm not 'handy' with wood.
well, the honey is going to be dominated by the grapes, to a degree. I'd go with a less expensive wildflower honey that will still be a good honey, but doesn't have the subtle flavors of an orange blossom honey.
Has anyone made their kits?
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/RED_WINE_CALIFORNIA_WINE_KITS_C165.cfm
They're fairly inexpensive so I wondered if they were decent, good, bad? I assume they are 'low bodied' reds that might do well with raisins or bananas added...was thinking about the...
I'm not a fan of repeated heat sanitizing/sterilizing because it exposes the natural imperfections in the glass, which leads to cracks and failures in the bottle.
Like lurker, I'm wondering why you want to top off with fermentable must, which might restart fermentation in secondary...vs topping off with fermented wine which shouldn't be able to restart fermentation in secondary.
How large a batch is this? 2 gallons I hope? 2kg of honey is way too much for 1 gallon of mead.
Definitely don't boil your honey, especially that long. I do 'no heat' mead making, no issues. If it freaks you out too much, do a low heat pasteurizing instead so you don't drive off all the...
Planning my beers in advance, for sure. With all 5 kegs on tap, I don't really have a need to allow any of the taps to run dry.
Times like that when doing a secondary vs. long primary can be quite handy in mitigating 'space & serving' issues.
what's the gravity? bubbles in the airlock mean nothing at all in terms of fermentation activity.
a warm day, a heavy semi driving by, or a clap of loud thunder will make my fully fermented (but not yet degassed) carboys burp CO2...which is all the bubbles ever mean...that CO2 was released for...
when bulk aging, its typical to add k-meta every 6 months or so to prevent oxidation.
so if you 'kept up' on dosing it to stave off oxidation, you shouldn't 'have' to consume it in the next year before its 'spoiled'.
Airlock pressure doesn't mean much. What are your gravity readings? That's the ONLY way to know what's up with fermentation. Anything else is just guesswork.
Yep, I listened to the entire podcast. FDA makes them put the longer time limit, but Charles discusses (in very scientific terms) what the kill rate is in just 30 seconds, which is why he states it really only takes 30 seconds to get you to a pretty happy place in terms of sanitizing...
I started my fermentation hobby 16 years ago using one-step when it was real new and still marketed as a sanitizer.
Now, its just a cleanser because they didn't want to jump through the FDA hoops.
Its ok, but straight-A is WAY stronger in terms of cleaning off odd organic deposits. This is a...