Geronimo
Norges Skaal!
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2011
- Messages
- 732
- Reaction score
- 135
It’s been 10 years since I started making wine kits, and no regrets so far!
My advice to others is simple; once you have some experience with your process and sanitation you’re ready to move up. Buy some really good wine kits, bottle them with really good corks, and let them age 3+ years. Some things I’ve experienced are a little bit to the contrary of what I’ve read on forums like this one and materials supplied by manufacturers, so I thought I’d share my experiences.
It all starts with the primary. About 4 ½ years ago I was in a bad accident and the subsequent recovery took a loooong time. I had 2 kits in primary for at least 8 weeks, and I was sure they were both ruined. However, much to my amazement, they were both AWESOME! So I carefully reproduced this experience and concluded that a long primary of 5-6 weeks with minimal disruption produced the best wines. Through more experimentation I’ve also concluded that adding 5g of diammonium phosphate (sometimes called DAP, yeast nutrient or yeast energizer) at the start yields the best, most consistent results. Also, I put any oak and/or grapes/raisins in a tied muslin cloth bag, agitate it after 2 days, again after 4 days, and remove it completely after 10-14 days.
Then I move the wine to bulk conditioning which is a 6 gallon glass carboy, top it off to eliminate almost all the headspace, and let it sit on my basement floor for 6-9 months. During that time it will get cold conditioned (in Minnesota) to 50F or even a bit lower, which will cause the potassium bitartrate to precipitate (that sandy gunk sometimes called wine diamonds) which balances the acidity naturally and the wine naturally clarifies. I adjust the tannins and oak at the start of bulk conditioning. This is an art like seasoning steak on the grill, so I can’t reasonably write about it. I never use bentonite or that clarifier goop. I find these old school methods are better.
Finally, the bottling. After some issue with natural corks, I switched to Zorks. They are spendy, but they are easy to use and extremely consistent. Now that the Zork prices are so high I switched to Nomacorcs. I found that using synthetics is a big deal if you plan to keep anything beyond 2 years. Natural corks can’t realistically be as consistent as synthetics, and you can’t buy the quality of corks that premium wineries can get. They get the best ones because they buy millions of them every year. I read somewhere that 30 billion bottles of wine are sold every year, and 7 billion are closed with synthetic closures now. Consistency is everything! I have some bottles around 7 years old closed with Zorks that are doing great. Also you can give bottles to people they can store them upright without a penalty. In fact, I’m finding that upright storage seems to make the aging process better, but I’ll need to do more controlled data collection on that subject. My theory (guess) is that with the bottle upright, a layer of carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide forms on top of the wine which acts as a barrier to oxygen coming in contact with the wine, slowing the oxidation.
All this writing has made me thirsty
My advice to others is simple; once you have some experience with your process and sanitation you’re ready to move up. Buy some really good wine kits, bottle them with really good corks, and let them age 3+ years. Some things I’ve experienced are a little bit to the contrary of what I’ve read on forums like this one and materials supplied by manufacturers, so I thought I’d share my experiences.
It all starts with the primary. About 4 ½ years ago I was in a bad accident and the subsequent recovery took a loooong time. I had 2 kits in primary for at least 8 weeks, and I was sure they were both ruined. However, much to my amazement, they were both AWESOME! So I carefully reproduced this experience and concluded that a long primary of 5-6 weeks with minimal disruption produced the best wines. Through more experimentation I’ve also concluded that adding 5g of diammonium phosphate (sometimes called DAP, yeast nutrient or yeast energizer) at the start yields the best, most consistent results. Also, I put any oak and/or grapes/raisins in a tied muslin cloth bag, agitate it after 2 days, again after 4 days, and remove it completely after 10-14 days.
Then I move the wine to bulk conditioning which is a 6 gallon glass carboy, top it off to eliminate almost all the headspace, and let it sit on my basement floor for 6-9 months. During that time it will get cold conditioned (in Minnesota) to 50F or even a bit lower, which will cause the potassium bitartrate to precipitate (that sandy gunk sometimes called wine diamonds) which balances the acidity naturally and the wine naturally clarifies. I adjust the tannins and oak at the start of bulk conditioning. This is an art like seasoning steak on the grill, so I can’t reasonably write about it. I never use bentonite or that clarifier goop. I find these old school methods are better.
Finally, the bottling. After some issue with natural corks, I switched to Zorks. They are spendy, but they are easy to use and extremely consistent. Now that the Zork prices are so high I switched to Nomacorcs. I found that using synthetics is a big deal if you plan to keep anything beyond 2 years. Natural corks can’t realistically be as consistent as synthetics, and you can’t buy the quality of corks that premium wineries can get. They get the best ones because they buy millions of them every year. I read somewhere that 30 billion bottles of wine are sold every year, and 7 billion are closed with synthetic closures now. Consistency is everything! I have some bottles around 7 years old closed with Zorks that are doing great. Also you can give bottles to people they can store them upright without a penalty. In fact, I’m finding that upright storage seems to make the aging process better, but I’ll need to do more controlled data collection on that subject. My theory (guess) is that with the bottle upright, a layer of carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide forms on top of the wine which acts as a barrier to oxygen coming in contact with the wine, slowing the oxidation.
All this writing has made me thirsty