Elmer's first boil

[Thig]

I'll stick with the dishwasher to sanitize my beer bottles. Works great.

I will just stick with that, I like the idea of being to load that dish washer up and doing them all at one time on high heat and no soap.

 

[Elmer]

With both Beer & Wine, my bottles are always delabled & Cleaned and stored upside down in boxes.

With Wine I usually spritz some K-meta in the bottle coat and dump out. If a little is left in the bottle all the better to dose the wine.

With beer I filled a bucket with San Star and submerged the bottle and dumped out and dried (except for the bubbles.)
however there were 50+ beer bottles.
With wine I tend to rack down and bottle a few at a time, so at most I am bottling 15 bottles of wine.

I guess in retrospect I could have used the AIO to pump Star San into the bottles and then dumped. But the biggest issue I had with beer was drying, without a drying rack.
I tried to use an upside down milk crate but it was just off enough to make everything slip about.
Wine is so much easier to sanitize, just my opinion

 

[BernardSmith]

The thing about soap (is that what dishwashers use?) is that it forms a film on the surface of glass and that film can have a deleterious effect on head retention. I don't know how "clean" dishwashers are (we prefer to wash our dishes by hand although we have a dishwasher and use it mainly as a drying rack) and whether grease from a previous load can end up being atomized and finely coating glassware. Detergent , I believe, does not form a film

 

[jswordy]

The thing about soap (is that what dishwashers use?) is that it forms a film on the surface of glass and that film can have a deleterious effect on head retention. I don't know how "clean" dishwashers are (we prefer to wash our dishes by hand although we have a dishwasher and use it mainly as a drying rack) and whether grease from a previous load can end up being atomized and finely coating glassware. Detergent , I believe, does not form a film

No worries. Dishwasher soap is specifically formulated to be gone when the cycle is done. That's why dishwashers leave glasses squeaky clean.

Use no soap, use hottest water/dry cycle where the machine is also heating the water as well as your water heater, get your bottles done and rock on... I put mine on the bottom rack with a spike through each one. I'll bet 95% of the water never gets inside, which is why they have to be clean going in. But the heat kills off the bugs.

We wash our dishes in the dishwasher. Too busy to do otherwise. It didn't bother the head on my beer...



And that one was before it went the full distance on carb. I was dubious, but it works. Like I said, I am going to try this with my delabeled wine bottles next. It's just too easy.

 

[petey_c]

Yaaay! Now I am thirsty. It'll carb fine at 65 or so.

It might just take a little longer.
No need to dry star san. It devolves into something the yeast can eat.
Ferrari Avvintore Bottle Sanitizer. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D6FUDC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Put star san (or the sanitizer of your choice) in the bottom, invert the bottle over the "spike." Press down once or twice and the inside of the bottle is now sanitized. It should take about 5 secs for each bottle. When I bottle beer, I usually get about 32 - 35 bottles. Sanitizing all takes about 5 - 10 minutes. I usually make 1/2 gal of star san (that's about 1/5th of an ounce). One quart for the bottle santizer and another to soak the caps. I keep the left over for use in a spray bottle for use on buckets, bottling wands, hydrometers, etc.

 

[HB_in_Subic]

I noticed that all of the kits that I have used come with a standard 4.5oz priming sugar packet. I never paid much attention to it but some types of beer you might want less foam to go with that style.

I usually wash my bottles in hot water, then soak in PBW (a filled cooler that I can fit 18 one liter bottles in), rinse and I have no issues to date. I have Star San on the way and some one step also. I use the bottling bucket to 1) help minimize the sediment in the bottle and 2) to prime the beer as it siphons in (minimizing oxygenation).

 

[jswordy]

I noticed that all of the kits that I have used come with a standard 4.5oz priming sugar packet. I never paid much attention to it but some types of beer you might want less foam to go with that style.

I usually wash my bottles in hot water, then soak in PBW (a filled cooler that I can fit 18 one liter bottles in), rinse and I have no issues to date. I have Star San on the way and some one step also. I use the bottling bucket to 1) help minimize the sediment in the bottle and 2) to prime the beer as it siphons in (minimizing oxygenation).

If you look at the brewing sites, this is an endless discussion. One guy insists that 3.95 ounces per 5 gallons is perfect, then the next guy says no, use something else. And don't ask about what KIND of sugar to use. Whoa! LOL. It's like going on a car site and asking what's the best oil to use.

But 1 oz. per gallon is the standard basis.

I'd love to get a ball lock keg system sometime and force carb it to whatever I want. That system also allows for sweetening the beer if you want, since you can kill off the yeast and still get it carbed. But priming sugar gets the job done cheap.

 

[Elmer]

I was originally going to wait 2 weeks to bottle condition, however someone gave me the great idea of trying 1 after 1 week in a bottle, than at 2 weeks then 3 weeks drink the rest.

I was fearful that it would not be carbed at all, fortunately there was carbonation, just not as much as u had hopped. 7 days in and there was not much head. Hoping that another week In a Warmer room will help.
Taste wise. It is a smooth and almost flavorless at first, followed by a great hop and lastly citrus hoppy nees. The aftertaste of hops lingers.
Not a bad first beer

 

[jswordy]

Beer looks good!

You will see a marked improvement at 14 days. Winter affects it some. I went 19 days before chilling my batch. I don't see that long being needed when it's 90 here.

It is strange. Even though the average temp in the house is not cold, just it being cold outside did seem to have an effect.

The beer will also clear some more, unless what I am seeing is a frosty glass. Lees should become compact at bottom of bottle, so you can easily pour off them and leave a little beer in the bottom.

 

[Elmer]

Beer looks good!

You will see a marked improvement at 14 days. Winter affects it some. I went 19 days before chilling my batch. I don't see that long being needed when it's 90 here.

It is strange. Even though the average temp in the house is not cold, just it being cold outside did seem to have an effect.

The beer will also clear some more, unless what I am seeing is a frosty glass. Lees should become compact at bottom of bottle, so you can easily pour off them and leave a little beer in the bottom.

I did not add irish moss to the boil so it will bit a little hazy.
I have spent the last day relentlessly looking for someplace warm to hide all my bottles.
My house is typically 68ish (when I am home) but 63 when I am not.
Oddly enough it is also 63 on the floor where the bottles tend to reside.
What I tasted last night was under carbed, by drinkable. I will be curious to see what I get in another 2 weeks.

This beer thing will be so much easier when it is not 10 degrees outside.
(which is why I am going to wait until March to start my next boil)

 

[wineinmd]

So I had intended to bottle yesterday but it was brought to my attention that I should not sanitiZe with KMeta, but instead use star San.
So I held off for a day and went and it some star San.
Good think I waited a day because more yeast/sediment dropped out.
Today I sanitized everything with star San, racked and bottled.
The toughest part was sanitizing every bottle and letting the dry. I use an upside down milk carton to place the bottles in, was not as effective as I hoped, but it worked.

Bottling with the AIO made things go easy, I would fill 6 or 12 at a time and then cap. Slowing down the flow allowed the beer not to foam too much or degass too much.

I took a couple sips and it is good hoppy ipa, it is just currently not carbed.
My biggest fear is not getting it to carb. I have most of my batch in the living room where it is 65 at its coolest. I put a dozen bottles in the basement where is 60, I covered these in 5 layers of heavy blankets.

Prep, sanitizing , bottling and clean up took about 3 hours.
I would consider investing in a keg system just to save me some hassle.
I have already purchased my next kit American Cream Ale, all extract! I will save this for spring, summer.

All in all this was an experience.

Congratulations on your first brew! I've been a homebrewer for the past couple years, and am reading as much as I can prior to my first winemaking adventure. I've spent lots of time on the sister site, homebrewtalk, and I've learned so much from there.

Make sure to store your extract kit in a cool, dark place and try to use it sooner rather than later. It has a finite shelf life, and your finished product will suffer if stored too long or kept for long periods outside of the ideal conditions.

 

[jswordy]

I did not add irish moss to the boil so it will bit a little hazy.
I have spent the last day relentlessly looking for someplace warm to hide all my bottles.
My house is typically 68ish (when I am home) but 63 when I am not.
Oddly enough it is also 63 on the floor where the bottles tend to reside.
What I tasted last night was under carbed, by drinkable. I will be curious to see what I get in another 2 weeks.

This beer thing will be so much easier when it is not 10 degrees outside.
(which is why I am going to wait until March to start my next boil)

You'll be fine at 63-68. That's about what my house is and it worked out fine. It will clear better. I was amazed at mine. Nice compact lees that stay in the bottom of the bottle. I barely have to leave any fluid behind.

What a hobby, huh? The way you find out if it's carbonated enough is to drink a brew! What's not to like?

I stuck my kit in the fridge until I get to it.

 

[petey_c]

I was originally going to wait 2 weeks to bottle condition, however someone gave me the great idea of trying 1 after 1 week in a bottle, than at 2 weeks then 3 weeks drink the rest.

I was fearful that it would not be carbed at all, fortunately there was carbonation, just not as much as u had hopped. 7 days in and there was not much head. Hoping that another week In a Warmer room will help.
Taste wise. It is a smooth and almost flavorless at first, followed by a great hop and lastly citrus hoppy nees. The aftertaste of hops lingers.
Not a bad first beer
View attachment 20341

You should find that carbonation will increase with time (to a degree). Tasting at least once a week allows you to see how taste and carb'ing develop. As you become more experienced and develop a "pipeline", you're less inclined to sample prematurely.

 

[Elmer]

2 weeks of bottle conditioning and the carb is at a good place.
The hop forward flavor has dissipated more than I thought, but there is more of subtle hop after taste.
Was not sure how hoppy I expected with 44 IBU.

Already planning my next 2 batches cream ale & black ipa

 

[jswordy]

That looks about perfect! It has cleared some more, too. Are the lees nice and compact in the bottom of the bottle? Mmmm. Hurry up clock! Time for a beer now!!

I'm almost to the point of boiling the Scottish Ale kit. Elmer's urging me on with these posts!

 

[wineinmd]

That looks about perfect! It has cleared some more, too. Are the lees nice and compact in the bottom of the bottle? Mmmm. Hurry up clock! Time for a beer now!!

I'm almost to the point of boiling the Scottish Ale kit. Elmer's urging me on with these posts!

I've never had the yeast compact that quickly. Usually at least a month in bottles plus a week or so in the fridge might get you there. Earlier than that and you'll get some yeast that try to get out at the end of the pour. I generally leave the last little bit in the bottle when I pour mine to keep the little guys out of the glass.

 

[jswordy]

I've never had the yeast compact that quickly. Usually at least a month in bottles plus a week or so in the fridge might get you there. Earlier than that and you'll get some yeast that try to get out at the end of the pour. I generally leave the last little bit in the bottle when I pour mine to keep the little guys out of the glass.

I have an old Coke chest cooler. When it hit my carb level, I slid those bad boys in there. Cooled it down and flocculated that Coopers Ale yeast right out. Nice. Yes, I leave a bit in the bottom. But if I pour real carefully, I can get 99% of it in the glass with no yeast.

 

[Elmer]

That looks about perfect! It has cleared some more, too. Are the lees nice and compact in the bottom of the bottle? Mmmm. Hurry up clock! Time for a beer now!!

I'm almost to the point of boiling the Scottish Ale kit. Elmer's urging me on with these posts!

Yes all the lees are at the bottom of the bottle.
It is not going to clear much more, because I did not use Irish Moss in the boil, so I believe I am stuck with the haze.

I learned a few things with this boil,(loosening the grain, steeping for 30 mins instead of 15, etc...)

I am going to make a all extract cream ale in the spring (got it for $23 due to store coupons) Then may try another partial grain, IPA, maybe a black IPA, which I am really enjoying these days!

 

[petey_c]

elmer, Your beer looks great.
Any wheat in your grains? That might account for the cloudiness/haze. In addition to, or instead of, Irish Moss you could also have added Whirlfloc tablets about ten minutes before the end of the boil. Don't know if I've already suggested this, but you could also use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag from Home Depot/Lowes. Put the bag in your primary (after cooling) and pour the wort into that. It should help remove more of the hops and left over grains. You'll probably find that the bag will become clogged with "cling-ons" (my term) as you drain. You'll have to shake the bag or "thwack" the side of the bag to get them to drop off. The clearer the sides are the faster it will drain. O2 at this stage is a good thing. Sediment will be less of a problem with all extract kits, but I think partial makes a better beer. I haven't done all grain so I can't say for sure.
If you want to try some Whirlfloc tablets for free PM me. I bought a pound (about 200+ tablets) and that's more than I will probably ever use.

 

[Elmer]

elmer, Your beer looks great.

Any wheat in your grains? That might account for the cloudiness/haze. In addition to, or instead of, Irish Moss you could also have added Whirlfloc tablets about ten minutes before the end of the boil. Don't know if I've already suggested this, but you could also use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag from Home Depot/Lowes. Put the bag in your primary (after cooling) and pour the wort into that. It should help remove more of the hops and left over grains. You'll probably find that the bag will become clogged with "cling-ons" (my term) as you drain. You'll have to shake the bag or "thwack" the side of the bag to get them to drop off. The clearer the sides are the faster it will drain. O2 at this stage is a good thing. Sediment will be less of a problem with all extract kits, but I think partial makes a better beer. I haven't done all grain so I can't say for sure.

If you want to try some Whirlfloc tablets for free PM me. I bought a pound (about 200+ tablets) and that's more than I will probably ever use.

I will plead ignorance on the wheat in my grains. My grains were 1# Crystal 20L, 8 oz Biscuit malt.

I popped another bottle today, just about 3 weeks in a bottle. All the flavors are coming together. It turned out to be a decent pale ale!