fastferment union valve replacement with stainless steel

[beer007]

Hi the red handle on the union valve on my 7.9G fastferment broken, so I have been using a wrench to open/close it, and I have been trying to find a stainless steel replacement but without success.
I contacted fastferment and they said they would reimburse me if I buy one from Amazon but they did not pay me back so I returned it as it would break again due to the plastic nature.



Now I am considering this option: use a ball valve and a union, and a MPT to barb adapter.

ball valve: FPT to FPT (connect to the conical body and the union)

union: MPT to FPT (MPT to connect to the ball valve, FPT to connect collection ball and barb for bottling)

MPT to barb(this is optional for bottling):

My only concern is the depth of the thread on the ball value is not enough and it may leak, it is only about 16mm, while the thread on the body is more than 20mm.

Any expert here to confirm if this will work?

Thanks.

 

[Ohio Bob]

I would personally be comfortable with it, using Teflon tape as well too, right?

 

[BigDaveK]

Agree. Always always always use teflon tape on threaded fittings. Everything else looks good for the information provided.

Just in case, holding the threads toward you, the tape goes on clockwise.

 

[Jim Welch]

Yes, lots and lots and lots of teflon tape should do it. Just like every other threaded connection on the FFs due to excessive tolerances in their manufacturing. The “carefully cut off the spruce with a razor knife” was an early sign of poor execution. I was an early adopter and have regretted that decision of mine. They have a lot of promise but poor execution by that company kept it from being realized.
I have one I can sell btw, barely used!

 

[beer007]

Thanks for the good info!
I actually already purchased the ball valve and tried it connecting directly with the conical body and the collection ball, it leaks(probably not enough Teflon tape) and I think it is not a good design to connect the ball directly to the valve, hence the union(no Teflon tape needed).
I will try this out and see, but it will be some time go get the parts delivered.

 

[beer007]

I just thought about another concern, are the threads strong enough to hold the collection ball(the weight and pressure from top)? It should not fall off?
I think the union would make the connection stronger than directly connecting the ball to the valve, will it?
Thanks.

 

[BigDaveK]

I imagine you'll have 10 or more threads so it should be fine.
However....
Generally it's preferable to join fittings of like material - plastic to plastic, metal to metal. Your fermenter is probably the weakest link. The metal doesn't "give" so each time you take things apart the plastic threads may get damaged just a little bit. If you don't take it apart, it "should" work. Have you looked at plastic ball valves? Like for swimming pools.
I've done a lot of plumbing over the years (copper, black iron, PVC, PEX) and I would use metal only if there was no other option.

Sorry I didn't think of this earlier. I'm in retirement mode. Many things aren't automatic like they once were.

 

[vinny]

I imagine you'll have 10 or more threads so it should be fine.
However....
Generally it's preferable to join fittings of like material - plastic to plastic, metal to metal. Your fermenter is probably the weakest link. The metal doesn't "give" so each time you take things apart the plastic threads may get damaged just a little bit. If you don't take it apart, it "should" work. Have you looked at plastic ball valves? Like for swimming pools.
I've done a lot of plumbing over the years (copper, black iron, PVC, PEX) and I would use metal only if there was no other option.

Sorry I didn't think of this earlier. I'm in retirement mode. Many things aren't automatic like they once were.

I have to agree with this. I threaded a 3/4 stainless nipple into abs for my softener drain and cracked the abs before it even started feeling anywhere near over tight. Woke up to a puddle on the floor the next time the softener ran and I got to do it all over again.

If it were me I would bring it in to my local plumbing supplier (for me Emco) and have them piece it together on site so it's one and done. My local hardware store is pretty well equipped with that stuff as well if you prefer to do it yourself.

 

[Jim Welch]

I just thought about another concern, are the threads strong enough to hold the collection ball(the weight and pressure from top)? It should not fall off?
I think the union would make

What is the weight difference between the OEM fittings and what you want to use? I “think” you’ll be fine but you could build a support underneath to take a little bit of the weight to give yourself some piece of mind. Nothing fancy, some wood blocks to get close then stuff a rag in the gap. Personally, I’d let it rip but would use a lot of Teflon tape to lubricate the threaded joint.

 

[beer007]

My concern with the plastic ones is that they do not last, but maybe the ferment conical body will not last for very long either.
I found this in local hardware store:

It is 1" FPT so it should fit, but we cannot open it to clean the valve, as demonstrated in this video. Also even if I got something from local store, still need to consider how to clean and how long it lasts.

I put a large plastic bucket under it when I brew, so it if really leaks it should not cause huge headache. If I go with the stainless valve option, I will also put some wood underneath to add support. Thanks for the idea @Jim Welch! (the OEM plastic fitting is much lighter, the SS valve alone is much heavier)

 

[BigDaveK]

Yes, you can't take it apart because there are minimal components. Rinsing and soaking, opened and closed, should get it squeaky clean.

Simple is usually good.

Look at the pros and cons, make a decision, go for it.

 

[beer007]

Ok some update on this, it is really difficult or almost impossible to find what I wanted, so I came up with this for now:

New valve + coupler + nipple (if they have a female to male connector, I can use only one instead of two parts):




Old handle-broken union valve:


I will use lots of Teflon tape and hope it will not leak. Also will get some unions to replace the coupler+nipple.

 

[beer007]

It leaks from the place where the nipple inserts into the valve, because the thread depth on the valve is not deep enough, I guess I will have to use more Teflon.

 

[BigDaveK]

It leaks from the place where the nipple inserts into the valve, because the thread depth on the valve is not deep enough, I guess I will have to use more Teflon.

Looks good!

In a perfect world 1 or 2 layers of teflon on the threads would work. More than once I've said "Hey, Tony, toss me a couple rolls of teflon!"

Worst case scenario - electrical tape stretched and wrapped tight on the outside will work for years. Though you didn't hear that from me!

 

[FlamingoEmporium]

Go into the electrical section. The gray pvc is same size and has male female couplers in one piece

they do make them in regular pvc plumbing but not always easy to find.

 

[beer007]

Go into the electrical section. The gray pvc is same size and has male female couplers in one piece

they do make them in regular pvc plumbing but not always easy to find.
View attachment 89120

Thanks. I am in Toronto area and it is really not available, I have found those socket/FPT or socket/MPT ones, but not MPT/FPT ones.

 

[FlamingoEmporium]

Must be the exchange rate between Canada and the US. They shave off the threads

id send you one but the postage would cost 5 times what the piece does

but those brass valves are so much better than the pvc ones.

 

[Sage]

My experience with plastic valves has been near 100% failure in one form or another. Brass or stainless ball valves are my first choice now.

 

[beer007]

I have been using it and it is really great, much easier to open/close the valve, and no concern about broken handle.
The nylon nipple is a little discolored to yellowish but I guess it should be no problem, since they should be food grade material:

The Nipple Pipe Fitting by Green Leaf® is both NSF61 and NSF372 certified. Nylon and Polypropylene hose fittings are offered in a variety of thread and hose shank combinations. Green Leaf pipe fittings are utilized for a variety of agricultural, plumbing and industrial liquid-handling solutions. All Green Leaf fittings are highly durable and chemical resistant.