Heat Belt Accessory

[SteveM]

So I purchased a heat belt for my primary fermenter (a bucket) as it is getting colder so I wanted to try and regulate the temperature. When I strapped it on, i got the feeling that it may loosen up and just fall of the bucket.
Insert nerd... I have a 3d printer and I have used that hobby to make a few things easier with this hobby. I had the idea to make a small clip I could slide on the belt and to help hold the cord in place, creating some tension so it does not slide down the bucket....

My concern is this. I do not claim to know anything about electricity, but I am worried that the kink (sharp curve) may cause some resistance in the electric current causing that cord to heat up and possibly catch fire or I'm I over thinking this?


A second thought was to reduce the sharp curve, but again, still thinking it may cause issues.


Any thoughts or any other ideas to keep the belt in place would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Rice_Guy]

The electricity is going to flow in the resistance wire as if there was no kink, ie generate heat.
There is less air flow at the kink therefore this area will get relatively warm, so how bad is hot
Polyethylene used on nomes wire will melt around 250F, a silicone insulation will melt around 420F, high temp wire as on a stove or the sealed head on my weed eater melts at some higher temp and I can see copper wires damaged if I run constantly l
Plastics in 3D printing have a fairly low melt point, what did you use? a metal at the bend probably will survive better, a printed end with vent holes every 1/4 inch would survive better.

Humm, fermentation is exothermic / energy releasing. You could have warm temperatures by starting with heat in the log growth phase and then switching to an insulated blanket with the coil unplugged

 

[winemaker81]

The melting point of PLA, a common 3D printer material, is 347 F.

Turn the belt on and measure the temperature. Since a heat belt is designed to be used directly on a plastic primary fermenter, I suspect it's not all that hot. It should be far lower than the 250 F that polyethylene melts at.

 

[SteveM]

Thanks for replying guys. It was not my 3d printed part I was concerned with, it's the kink I created by bring the wire backwards. See the picture below. Will that be a problem with a load on it?

 

[winemaker81]

David's first 2 sentences say the kink probably isn't a problem, but the lack of free flowing air may increase the heat level.

Turn it on and check the temperature at several points among the wire. While I don't expect the heat to be too much, it's best to verify.

Note -- my fall grapes ferment at 63-68 F and I have no problems.

 

[sour_grapes]

Thanks for replying guys. It was not my 3d printed part I was concerned with, it's the kink I created by bring the wire backwards. See the picture below. Will that be a problem with a load on it?

View attachment 118558

I believe that the black wire is the supply wire, not the resistance heater, right? If so, you have no worries. That kink will not cause any problems.

 

[bstnh1]

My heat belt is always loose on carboys. I simply slip a piece of 1 1/2" pvc pipe vertically between the belt and carboy. Keeps it nice and tight.

 

[wineview]

I never used a heat belt. I do use a heat mat from Amazon and wrap it on the bucket with a bungee cord. I realize that doesn’t answer your question, but I really like the pvc pipe idea. The link below is similar to the one I use. Mine has a temperature probe that I place under the bungee on the side of the bucket and a controller allowing you to increase or decrease the temperature. The probe works surprisingly well and keeps the temperature within 1-2 degrees of the must.

https://a.co/d/7eG2SZa

 

[BPL]

From the technical stand point and a few brief notes:
* The bend of the wire will not cause heat to increase.
* Something called OHM's law governs current flow, voltage, and resistance.
* The current (and thus heat) is governed by the wattage of the heat belt (the resistive element). All the heat will be in the heating element and >typically< not in the wires. The wires have an extremely low resistance and thus minimal heat is formed.
* Kinks in the INSULATION will weaken the properties and potentially cause problems. I suggest rigging something similar to a screen door spring to hold the heat belt to the bucket. Various springs can be found at hardware stores.

Apart from the mechanical & electrical issues, fermenting sugar is an exothermic process (generating heat). Using a heat belt on a fermenting bucket without some sort of control can cause a build up of heat in the must. Under certain conditions, the extra heat can lead (most likely lead) to unwanted aromas and flavors when yeast cells ferment outside their specified temperature range.

I apologize for being brief, but lengthy essays can be written on each of the principles above.

 

[winemaker81]

I apologize for being brief, but lengthy essays can be written on each of the principles above.

You provided a very nice short answer that makes sense.

IMO the best summary regarding the application of heat to fermentation: use caution.

 

[BPL]

IMO the best summary regarding the application of heat to fermentation: use caution.

Exactly!

Thank you.
Barry

 

[BernardSmith]

Gotta say, I was concerned about the temperature in my basement at this time of year - it's about 62 F and I was about to pitch RC 212 into a glass carboy to ferment a malbec. I spoke with the fellow in my LHBS and asked about a belt (better for buckets , not glass) and he recommended a heating blanket designed for a glass carboy. It wasn't inexpensive but since fermentation is exothermic, I decided to pull a woolen jumper over the carboy to trap the heat generated by the yeast- and after a couple of days of very sluggish activity, the bubbler is now going gang busters. Bottom line? You may not in fact need that heat belt when all is said and done. Just use a sweater or a blanket to insulate your carboy.

 

[mikewatkins727]

Once when I was fermenting wine in the fall of the year and the temperatures were falling I resorted to putting the carboy ( 3 gal size) into a Rough Neck storage container. Filled the tub with water and added an aquarium heater.

 

[winemaker81]

Another tactic that helps is an overnight yeast starter, which enables the yeast to grow a larger initial colony in an environment that is more friendly to the yeast. I typically do mine overnight (~12 hours), but even 4 to 6 hours will produce a larger initial colony.

My method is documented here: https://wine.bkfazekas.com/how-to-make-a-yeast-starter/

With an overnight starter, at a cellar temperature of 63 F / 17 C I can smell fermentation within 6 hours, even if I don't yet see visible signs.

Adding on to @BernardSmith's suggestion, I ferment in open containers and place beach towels over them to allow air in and keep stuff out. A couple layers of towels will help keep in heat.

 

[BPL]

Gotta say, I was concerned about the temperature in my basement at this time of year - it's about 62 F and I was about to pitch RC 212 into a glass carboy to ferment a malbec. I spoke with the fellow in my LHBS and asked about a belt (better for buckets , not glass) and he recommended a heating blanket designed for a glass carboy. It wasn't inexpensive but since fermentation is exothermic, I decided to pull a woolen jumper over the carboy to trap the heat generated by the yeast- and after a couple of days of very sluggish activity, the bubbler is now going gang busters. Bottom line? You may not in fact need that heat belt when all is said and done. Just use a sweater or a blanket to insulate your carboy.

IMO, one of the biggest issues with fermentations is controlling both the exothermic release of heat and applying external heat. Controlling must temperature to a very tight range is where the best wines are made (again, IMO...mostly because I do it all the time. ). For example if fruitier flavors/aromas are desired in a white wine, ferment at a cooler temperature-pretty much will known. So, if fermenting at a cooler temperature, say starting at 65*F, how much flavor and aroma is lost if the temperature of the must is allowed to vary from 65*F to 80*F?

The second thing many folks don't take into consideration is the specifications of the yeast. RC212 has a listed range of 60*F to 86*F. Yes, fermentation >will seem to be sluggish< at 62-63*F, but in reference to what? A fast ferment? Besides of being fast, what is the gain for flavor?

My points are just because a yeast seems sluggish, doesn't mean the nuances of the fruit and yeast are not targeted. Another example is I wanted to make a Merlot that was spicy but had a very high fruity aroma and taste. I fermented it at 63*F using RC212, hydrated with GoFerm and 2 applications of Fermaid O. I kept the must at 63*F +/- 1*F. It took nearly 3 weeks to reach dry, but so what? Mission accomplished!

I offer this long winded explanation to those who desire to really home in on the benefits of controlling temperature of wine making and use yeasts to their full potential.

Barry

 

[A14ES]

I second the use of the seeding heat mat secured with the bungee cord. I also attach a thermocouple to the opposite side of the 7.5gal bucket, secured with the masking tape and a layer of folded paper towels over it for thermo insulation. I wrap everything then in to the movers blanket secured with the bungee cord. Im in SoCA, it's 43F at night and 75 at day now. I apply overall blanket only after exothermal reaction completed (aggressive foaming would by your indicator). Btw, the heat mat is connected to the inkbird thermo-controller. A similar setup is for the entire time in the 6 gal carboys.

 

[AFW]

I have just purchased an Inkbird temperature controller ( ITC-308) and fermentation wrap, Black Friday purchase. I have a Wild Grape Riesling fermenting now and I am loving the temperature control!