New Vineyard Prep
- Thread starter havlikn
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Lots of work there. Soon no more relaxing for you!
Nice! A full arc, and a double rainbow to boot!
For those that don't already know this, note that the order of the colors in the second rainbow are reversed from that of the primary rainbow.
![[Upgraded] 9Pcs Tree Root Growing Box with Drain Holes, Half Transparent Plant Rooting Propagation Ball & Metal Core Twist Ties, for Fast Propagation Plants (Size M)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/514MWQxtWOL._SL500_.jpg)
Very nice!
barbiek
barbiek
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very nice shot!
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You need to learn to take it all in Barbie. Feel your surroundings as they happen. Don't rush around and never enjoy the little things.
Things are progressing along. Foch are in bloom and recent rains have the vines growing quickly. 
I was told grapes are ready 90 days after bloom. I know it is site specific and dependent on brix, but I'm just seeing if anyone has input on that statement?
I was told grapes are ready 90 days after bloom. I know it is site specific and dependent on brix, but I'm just seeing if anyone has input on that statement?
havlikn,
Love the post - very interesting reading and seeing all of your progress and additions. Last May, I planted my first rows of vineyard (Foch and Marquette), and added to that this year and am up to a measly 144 vines on 4 rows. Located in central Wisconsin (near Portage), I went through the wild ride of this spring's temperature fluctuations, but only lost around 10% of first years planting (i.e., around 5 vines).
Question, from the picture it appears you train to the top wire? I am significantly lacking the full education and knowledge at this point, but am reading quite a bit (books, online, etc.), and am interested in your take (and anyone else's) on training and pruning system for these cold-hardy hybrids. It's all confusing to a newb, because I read differing reports. Cane vs spur/cordon, top-wire cordon vs. mid-wire VSP. How does one decide on which systems to use? What is the best resource, including imagery, on how to actually train and prune properly? For my vines which I planted last year (around 50, 45 of which made it), I want to ensure I properly train them, prune them, and get them ready for fruit set. As of now, I've been letting them grow around a 6' bamboo stake, protected by grow tubes. But, they're really taking off and I'm not sure what I should be focused on in my 2nd year of growth. Any insight would be much appreciated.
Thank you,
Zach
Love the post - very interesting reading and seeing all of your progress and additions. Last May, I planted my first rows of vineyard (Foch and Marquette), and added to that this year and am up to a measly 144 vines on 4 rows. Located in central Wisconsin (near Portage), I went through the wild ride of this spring's temperature fluctuations, but only lost around 10% of first years planting (i.e., around 5 vines).
Question, from the picture it appears you train to the top wire? I am significantly lacking the full education and knowledge at this point, but am reading quite a bit (books, online, etc.), and am interested in your take (and anyone else's) on training and pruning system for these cold-hardy hybrids. It's all confusing to a newb, because I read differing reports. Cane vs spur/cordon, top-wire cordon vs. mid-wire VSP. How does one decide on which systems to use? What is the best resource, including imagery, on how to actually train and prune properly? For my vines which I planted last year (around 50, 45 of which made it), I want to ensure I properly train them, prune them, and get them ready for fruit set. As of now, I've been letting them grow around a 6' bamboo stake, protected by grow tubes. But, they're really taking off and I'm not sure what I should be focused on in my 2nd year of growth. Any insight would be much appreciated.
Thank you,
Zach
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Those varieties you mention do well with Top Wire Cordon (spur pruned) but will do well with Top Wire cane pruned also. Marquette has a tendency to die back after a few years on the cordons and you can renew with a new cane laid down. Here is a picture of year 5 on some Marquette in one of my vineyards.
Grapeman,
I understand your points on top-wire spur vs top-wire cane; however, one question - why not mid-wire cane and position them in the vertical shoot positioning upward (VSP)? I read places that Marquette is a semi-upright growing varietal, and thus I'm confused why you would train it to the top-wire and let the shoots drop down, as opposed to train the canes to the mid-wire and train the shoots up.
Any thoughts on this?
I understand your points on top-wire spur vs top-wire cane; however, one question - why not mid-wire cane and position them in the vertical shoot positioning upward (VSP)? I read places that Marquette is a semi-upright growing varietal, and thus I'm confused why you would train it to the top-wire and let the shoots drop down, as opposed to train the canes to the mid-wire and train the shoots up.
Any thoughts on this?
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Two things. First it is easier to let them hang down just by combing rather than fighting to keep them within the catch wires. It takes more work for that to maintain proper airspace.
Second. Marquette is very susceptible to late spring frosts (ask GregND). Mid wire freezes harder as the air settles down in many freeze events.
Not to mention Mid wire cordon (VSP) was the lowest yielding, lowest brix and highest acid out of the four training systems I had in my multiple year trials. The High wire cordon is a good compromise between yield and quality with a minimal of maintenance. While your results may vary, it works for me.
As far as upright growth, yes it does grow upright for a while like most varieties and soon droops so it is very well adapted to Top wire as the Northern Grapes Project has also found.
Second. Marquette is very susceptible to late spring frosts (ask GregND). Mid wire freezes harder as the air settles down in many freeze events.
Not to mention Mid wire cordon (VSP) was the lowest yielding, lowest brix and highest acid out of the four training systems I had in my multiple year trials. The High wire cordon is a good compromise between yield and quality with a minimal of maintenance. While your results may vary, it works for me.
As far as upright growth, yes it does grow upright for a while like most varieties and soon droops so it is very well adapted to Top wire as the Northern Grapes Project has also found.
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