Newbie questions

[goldnut]

I am still new to wine making therefore I am a bit confused on some things. The one that I am struggling with right now is when is the proper time to degass? I am using the "Winemakers recipe handbook" that I got from my local wine store. Following the directions in the book to the "T" but the book doesnt get into detail about degassing a or clearing. My plan is to rack the wine after it is done fermenting. Then degass, followed with adding super kleer. Then putting under air lock. Is this going to produce clear wine? Also what does it mean when I read "stabilize then bottle"? Stabilize with K-Meta? Thanks for the help, Ken

 

[richmke]

Red or White? backsweeten? How long will you let it sit in the carboy?

If you let time do the work, you don't have to degass and use super kleer.

 

[Deezil]

The degasing can be done any time from when fermentation has completed (meaning the same SG reading for 3 days in a row), to never (if bulk aged for 18 months or more). Realize though, that the sooner you remove the CO2, the sooner you'll be adding K-meta to keep the wine protected; the CO2 expelling naturally in a warm (spring, summer, fall) environment can protect the wine to a certain degree, provided it's bulk aging and you're not removing the airlock often.

Personally, I degas when fermentation is over to accelerate the clearing process. But pectin enzyme pre-ferment, bentonite added on the 3rd day of fermentation, and degasing post-fermentation are the only things I add/do to clarify my wines, besides time itself. In most cases you don't need anything more than that, if you have patience.

The process you've outlined can produce a clear wine, but is by no means bulletproof. Time is generally needed no matter how much manipulation is involved, so don't trick yourself into thinking that you can manipulate the wine to clarity. It'll still need time, either way.

The only sediment to really be scared of, is that first settling of gross lees - mostly fruit particulate than can decay and spoil the wine. After that, time is on your side as the sur lees, which is mostly spent yeast cells, won't hurt the wine too bad. Sure, there's wine styles and particular yeast strains where you don't want to leave it sitting, but by and large, it's not a point of stress in winemaking.

As for stabilizing, it depends on if you plan to sweeten the wine or not. If you do plan to, it's a sorbate+sulfite addition to consider it stabilized, but if you're leaving it dry, then you only need to sulfite it. Most new winemakers have a hard time dialing in the acidity-sweetness-body-alcohol balance at first, and it takes some sweetening to make the wine more palatable, so you're probably looking at sorbate+sulfite.

 

[goldnut]

rich, I am currently making fredonia and elderberry. I will back sweeten both. I plan on leaving it in the carboy until it is clear and then some. I really dont have a time in mind since I am new at this. I guess I will be leaving it in there for about 4-5 months total.

Deezil, Thank you for all the good information. It will be very helpful to me. Ken

 

[richmke]

I will back sweeten both.

Then you have to use K-Sorbate.

I would do the following:

When it is done fermenting, use K-Meta and K-Sorbate to stabilize the wine.

Do periodic rackings until about 6 weeks before you want to bottle. Add some more k-meta after 3 months.

6 weeks prior, check CO2 (put some in a bottle, and shake) and degass if needed. Then, if needed, clarify with Pectin Enzyme (if pectin haze) and Super Kleer. I believe you then rack after 2 weeks. Wait another 4 weeks. Rack again with a does of K-Meta, and then bottle.

 

[goldnut]

Rich,
So, if I add the K meta and the Sorbate after fermentation to stabilize, do I need to use more Sorbate when back sweetening? Or will the first dose be enough? I plan on back sweetening right before I bottle. Ken

 

[richmke]

One does of k-sorbate is all you need.
K-meta you need to add as needed.