Thanks for posting these. Really useful information for someone new to barrels. I did a couple of 'fixes' to mine that I'll share soon, once I get them in service.
Absolutely. We all would love to learn from experience before we make the big mistakes!Thanks for posting these. Really useful information for someone new to barrels. I did a couple of 'fixes' to mine that I'll share soon, once I get them in service.
Hey Fred,All you have to do is take the thermocouple off the evaporator coil and run it outside the space. Then run the one from the Inkbird inside and plug the AC unit into the Inkbird. Mine is set at 57° and it works just fine. My warehouse has no AC and in the summer it can get to 90+degrees. @Brant, the unit condensate is self evaporating which I think a lot are nowadays.
Just curious, what is the lowest setting on your unit. A few I was able to find data on say 62°.So I pulled out one of my heating pads I used to help complete MLF when its too cool. These pads do not turn off by themselves and have a cover. I set to low and pulled the AC thermostat back inside and place it between the inside wall and the heating pad. Held it all together with some Duck tape because...... why not! LOL
Its now cycling on/off perfectly like it would when it is hot outside. As you can see the AC thermostat is reading a warm but not hot temp now so I don't think I have a fire hazard. I will probably add a smart AC switch to the heating pad and have it come on (and the heating pad as well) in the late evening around 10PM and then cut off in the morning around 10AM. It will save some electricity and improve efficiency. I will see about tweaking things maybe a few degrees colder after I get some more data.
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Mine would go as low as 64 but the room was about 65-66 during the day. Looks like I'm averaging about 62 during the day now and I might be able to go a few degrees colder. This unit is about 14 years old now IIRC. Still blowing Ice cold air!Just curious, what is the lowest setting on your unit. A few I was able to find data on say 62°.
Wow, wow, wow. Very cool. When engineering meets oenology!Finally got most of my barrels operational. Wanted to share my process for increasing the bung hole diameter. Made a wood jig, then used a 45mm hole saw, which perfectly fits a #10 rubber bung.
Torched the edges using a sheet metal shield with the same diameter. To prep the barrels, I used boiling water turned them over and let them soak for 6 hours. Water was still warm when dumped, lots of yellow. No leaks with water, but had a few with wine seepage. Most self-sealed but had to bees wax 1 of them. Worked great.
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I used a vinocolor from morlet family vinyards, which is a pigment extracted from freeze dried grapes (organic material removed) and everything is coated with sullivans mildewcide (2 coats) from barrel builders. The mildewcide allows the barrel to breathe. I found it necessary to coat the vinocolor even though it looks better without the mildecide coating. However, when it gets wet the pigment resets and moves around. With the miildewcide it got darker but does not react when it gets wet. Hides stains perfectly.Those look great~ is there a coating on them of some kind? Aside from the darker area around the center… I’m curious about any impact on oxygen movement, evaporation, etc… also great jig for enlarging the hole!
5-gal ea - purchased these from More Wine last fall they were $50 off / ea on Black Friday. Wasn’t what I originally wanted, but fit my space well. Very pleased with the quality, just needed a larger bung hole for cleaning, etc.Wow, wow, wow. Very cool. When engineering meets oenology!
Are those 10 gallon barrels?
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