Great post
@Jbu50, thanks for sharing this.
This topic, and people’s responses, always interest, inform, and entertain me. Growing up here as the son of immigrants and spending so much time in the old countries, it’s crazy how many ways there are to make wines (and cook food).
Think about it: modern technology, products, processes and practices have made it possible to take relatively low grade grapes and make low cost, consistent, reliable, perfectly acceptable, mass produced wines. Awesome. That same tech is also used to produce some wonderful, very expensive, Parkerized, teeth-staining ooz-bombs.
And yet, some of the best commercial wines use virtually none of that. I was recently poured one of the best commercial cabs I’ve ever tasted, which I learned was made as follows; hand harvested and sorted, whole-berry fermented in concrete, native yeast, 10-20 day extended maceration, pressed into 70% new oak, aged for 22 months without racking, minimal SO2 prior to bottling. The bottle price was $200.
There are hundreds of small, commercial, “low-intervention” wines here in CA and the Pacific Northwest making incredible (some expensive, some not) wines that don’t fall into the chasm of; harvest, crush, dust with SO2, add acid, add enzymes, add nutrients, hammer through ferment with a high tolerance commercial yeast, oak age or add wood chips, rack / SO2 every three months, bottle. Many commercial cellars will also use mega-purple, velcorin, casein, RO, etc. etc. etc. (which can greatly enhance their wines). Don’t get me wrong – there is absolutely nothing wrong with making wines this way, but it is only one of thousands of ways to make wine – good wine.
When you talk to small commercial or home wine makers, every conversation will be different. Those who don’t grow grapes will emphasize their cellar techniques. Those who grow grapes and make wine will start with the clones they planted, vine lay-out, and farming techniques before describing their cellar practices. Everyone is just trying to control and perfect what they can while making their wines in the styles they choose.
If you are on the East coast of the US buying boxed grapes (lugs?) from some unknown source (“California”, “Lodi”, “Paso Robles”) which were harvested on some unknown date and then mass-packaged and shipped, making wine from the above-mentioned formula is probably the “safest” route. But if you know your source, hand harvest yourself, watch the farmer tractor in macro bins of just-now-hand-harvested fruit, or stand there as the sun rises and take delivery of whole berries from a Pellenc machine harvester / destemmer / sorter – then your options for making awesome wine opens up by a factor of 1,000.
These old timers are making wine in a way I’ve never heard of, just as many of us here make wines in our own unique ways. But fundamentally we are all doing the exact same thing – correcting, controlling, and perfecting what we can while making our wines our way and sharing them with our family and friends.